Cannabis Hardware (formerly NewVape) FlowerPot Twax Vaporizer

cvs8floz

Well-Known Member
Received the B1 a couple of days ago and I can confirm that it is a worthy upgrade of the Weedeater, which had been my daily driver for 2+ years. I use the Weedeater capped 100% of the time and I don't remove the head between draws, I like to keep as much heat as possible in my bowl for effortless 3-5 second draws. With the B1, I was able to reduce the coil temp from 610 to 565 and get similar results without a carb cap, strangely enough, using a carb cap on the B1 makes almost no difference at all. I have also noticed that no vapor leaks from the carb cap like it used to with the Weedeater, the balls create an upward barrier and trap the vapor much better.
 

RustyOldNail

SEARCH for the treasure...
Received the B1 a couple of days ago and I can confirm that it is a worthy upgrade of the Weedeater, which had been my daily driver for 2+ years. I use the Weedeater capped 100% of the time and I don't remove the head between draws, I like to keep as much heat as possible in my bowl for effortless 3-5 second draws. With the B1, I was able to reduce the coil temp from 610 to 565 and get similar results without a carb cap, strangely enough, using a carb cap on the B1 makes almost no difference at all. I have also noticed that no vapor leaks from the carb cap like it used to with the Weedeater, the balls create an upward barrier and trap the vapor much better.

I’ve been using 565f as well on my PID. I tried using a single hole version of the CH Universal carb cap, obviously a lot more draw resistance, it milked up slowly, but the vapor was way too dense, and thick, which’s sounds good, but tasted harsh and bad, close to “Smokey”, though no combustion. So NO capping my B1, which makes it a lot easier to use while holding a water piece.

I used the same amount, .1g (1/8th tsp), fresh for each shovelhead bowl. However, I never leave the B1 head on the bowl, gets the top of my flower in bowl too dark, and increases the risk of combustion, personally don’t see any reason to heat soak the shovelhead bowl, as with this device I’m only interested in CONVECTION.
 

SquirrelMaster

Well-Known Member
I was going to say, do I need this lmao. I don't have a bowl that can utilize this, but it does look appealing

5xfiqd.jpg


I’m just stoked I won’t need the carb cap anymore to get huge hits from the WeedEater. Loved my WeedEater but the carb cap was almost necessary. The restricted airflow the balls give is gonna be perfect to make this a one-hander vs two hander for taking hits

If this is what you're excited about, I can confirm. I often used the cap for the best hits, and I had several pieces where it just didn't work having to hold everything to grab the cap and remove it. I've been able to use any and all of them now, since I don't need an extra hand to hold or grab the cap. Like I said, it's just like taking a lighter to a bowl now, to me at least. I like being able to use pieces that didn't really work before now.
Not needing a carb cap on the B1 is not only convenient but safer too. I've knocked my cap off a few times by accident so this is just one less hot piece to worry about when only vaping flower. I'd agree with the lighter to a bowl analogy, the B1 rips! At 330°C/626°F I can't believe how fast and dense the vapor fills my Herborizer Sphere.

@Zoltani
I don't believe you can override the main power button for smart plug turn on, but like @The Stray Fox I have a couple smart plugs that auto shut off every night in case I forget. I'll shoot Auber a message to confirm if this can be done through programming otherwise I was thinking of opening my older out of warranty Auber up and bypassing the power button. The heads heat up so quickly that I usually power them on and check on my plants while they heat soak a little.
 

The Stray Fox

Separated from the group
I found another washer from EXTSW that holds the shovelhead pretty well and fits the carb cap spot on the PID stand: EXTSW 3/4" / .755” ID x 1 1/4” x 7/8" long 316 Stainless Shaft Spacer. Works with male posts, not sure about female.
View attachment 15031
This thing is a great stand alone stand. It’s very sturdy and keeps the gunky part of the joint off the surface. It’s just what I needed for my new setup I’m working on.

8AC452AD-C00F-42AE-AFDE-63DF09E8271A.jpeg
I already have a CH glass bowl that I don't use a ton compared to my shovel head.
Hopefully they will make a Ti injector bowl.
but the vapor was way too dense, and thick, which’s sounds good, but tasted harsh and bad, close to “Smokey”, though no combustion.
Hum. I know what your talking about. I do prefer a clean vapor taste but every once in awhile I go seeking that very robust hit. Maybe through capping or the 18mm basket screen hack. I usually can feel it the next day when I choose to go down road.
 

Tuck

Well-Known Member
My B2 showed up and it is fantastic. I got 2 bags of beads. I'm trying the little 3mm beads right now. I'm @ 575F on the NV controller. I am coming from a ShowerHead @575F as my daily driver - I run low because it is less harsh on my asthma. I was not sure what to expect flower-wise. I figured it would be on par with where I was. It seemed to milk faster and it seemed hotter than my SH. Probably don't need to say it but dabbing on the SIC was so tasty and a definite upgrade over the SH. I'm going to try to go down to 540-550 and see how it hits.
 

caliganja420

Well-Known Member
I also receive my B1, coming from a VROD. I am running the B1 uncapped 4mm Rubys at 695 and still its not going as dark as my VROD capped. I can't believe most of you are running at 500-600. I am trying to get the darkest extraction possible... do I need 3 mm rubies?
 
caliganja420,

DamnGentleman

Well-Known Member
I also receive my B1, coming from a VROD. I am running the B1 uncapped 4mm Rubys at 695 and still its not going as dark as my VROD capped. I can't believe most of you are running at 500-600. I am trying to get the darkest extraction possible... do I need 3 mm rubies?

The B-1 doesn't fit very well initially and that affects efficiency. Have you spread the coil?
 

Steel28

Well-Known Member
I also receive my B1, coming from a VROD. I am running the B1 uncapped 4mm Rubys at 695 and still its not going as dark as my VROD capped. I can't believe most of you are running at 500-600. I am trying to get the darkest extraction possible... do I need 3 mm rubies?
Weird, I just got my B1 setup with 3mm rubies and running it uncapped at 575 with amazing results. Much much better vs WE I had before.

AC9-EB8-A4-F976-4-EDD-82-BC-17-C8-AE8-B8597.jpg
 

RustyOldNail

SEARCH for the treasure...
I also receive my B1, coming from a VROD. I am running the B1 uncapped 4mm Rubys at 695 and still its not going as dark as my VROD capped. I can't believe most of you are running at 500-600. I am trying to get the darkest extraction possible... do I need 3 mm rubies?

Have you tried SLOWING your draw. The B1 has a lot of airflow, also the rig has some effect, but I assume your using the same rig for comparison to the VROD (I only have a B1, converted from OG WE). If start my draw SLOW on a small .1 load in shovelhead, at 565f, the top of the load can get too roasted, and negatively effects the flavor for me.
 
RustyOldNail,
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tokenknifeguy

Well-Known Member
Just got my B1 yesterday and was running it at 710-750. Getting very dark AVB. Definitely clears out .2g in one hit. Guess I'm gonna try out the lower temps 5-600 range.

But that first hit I took off the B1 was awesome. Definitely end game vape.
 

DHV8654

Well-Known Member
Received my B1 yesterday. Filled it with as many 3mm rubies as I could fit. It certainly is a chore to not spill and get it tightened with the coil in. First bowl at 675 was massive clouds, too much for my 2 month tolerance break lungs. Turned down to 550 was a little wispy.
My coil moves a little in the B1, is this normal?

Weird, I just got my B1 setup with 3mm rubies and running it uncapped at 575 with amazing results. Much much better vs WE I had before.

AC9-EB8-A4-F976-4-EDD-82-BC-17-C8-AE8-B8597.jpg
Does the heat shield attach to the stand debowler? Wasnt sure how it stays on the stand.
I like your eds tnt handlesI think they are sold out.
 
DHV8654,
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tokenknifeguy

Well-Known Member
Received my B1 yesterday. Filled it with as many 3mm rubies as I could fit. It certainly is a chore to not spill and get it tightened with the coil in. First bowl at 675 was massive clouds, too much for my 2 month tolerance break lungs. Turned down to 550 was a little wispy.
My coil moves a little in the B1, is this normal?
Mine moved too but I did this trick for a fix.

 

Steel28

Well-Known Member
Does the heat shield attach to the stand debowler? Wasnt sure how it stays on the stand.
I like your eds tnt handlesI think they are sold out.

Heat shield has threads and can be attached to the stand.

Agreed about Ed’s work, handles are awesome.
 
Steel28,
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SquirrelMaster

Well-Known Member
I also receive my B1, coming from a VROD. I am running the B1 uncapped 4mm Rubys at 695 and still its not going as dark as my VROD capped. I can't believe most of you are running at 500-600. I am trying to get the darkest extraction possible... do I need 3 mm rubies?
I had my B1 (w/3mm rubies, uncapped) at 330°C/626°F on the first day I received it and it was hitting harder than my VROD capped at the same temp. My coil had to be just barely spread or it was a little loose. If your coil is loose at all check out the video @tokenknifeguy linked above.

The second day I dropped to 300°C/572°F then 310°C/590°F and finally 320°C/608°F. I started to get hit by something (non-COVID) on Wednesday so I've been taking a break until today. I just fired up a bowl of Super Skunk at 325°C/617°F and it was 2 seconds before vapor production and another 3 seconds before my Sphere (1L) was milked. This was in a glass bowl from DHGate, I can't remember the name atm but they're not in stock. I filled it up and took 2 hits total. I feel like I could clean the whole house right now, my heart is fucking pounding! I need tolerance breaks more regularly :lol:.

I loaded up a sprinkle of CBD (Selwyn 20% CBD) and it was another second before the Sphere was milked (pictured below). The first bowl with more flower had denser vapor.

 

RustyOldNail

SEARCH for the treasure...
I beginning to think the various 100f temp swings reported with the B1 filled with 3mm rubies, is due more to LOAD SIZE, inhalation speed and rig size, and then of course grind size and humidity of particular strain. I test mine with a minimal load of .1, which just covers the screen in the flowerpot. So to attempt to compare, members would have to include the most important factors in their posts on ABV results.

These hardened “vertical” PID coils can only be spread up/down a bit with a flat head screwdriver, as per the CH/NV video linked above. I went through this exercise almost two years ago. That adjustment will snug things up a bit, but unless you had the right workbench equipment, trying to tighten the coil inwards might break it, and my conversions with CH/NV put my mind at ease.... JUST TURN YOUR COIL ON 10 MINUTES BEFORE USING IT...
the coil wrap won’t matter, it will be HOT.
 
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SquirrelMaster

Well-Known Member
I beginning to think the various 100f temp swings reported with the B1 filled with 3mm rubies, is due more to LOAD SIZE, inhalation speed and rig size, and then of course grind size and humidity of particular strain. I test mine with a minimal load of .1, which just covers the screen in the flowerpot. So to attempt to compare, members would have to include the most important factors in their posts on ABV results.

These hardened “vertical” PID coils can only be spread up/down a bit with a flat head screwdriver, as per the CH/NV video linked above. I went through this exercise almost two years ago. That adjustment will snug things up a bit, but unless you had the right workbench equipment, trying to tighten the coil inwards might break it, and my conversions with CH/NV put my mind at ease.... JUST TURN YOUR COIL ON 10 MINUTES BEFORE USING IT...
the coil wrap won’t matter, it will be HOT.
I can't say I've noticed temp swings in different rigs. I'm guessing the larger one is, the bigger the swing could be because of more airflow?

I didnt remember the coil tightening video when mine arrived and I honestly thought a screwdriver could damage it by scratching. I cut a wooden door stop from a 2x4 and used that but, you have to be careful with soft woods as they'll break off.
 
SquirrelMaster,

RustyOldNail

SEARCH for the treasure...
I can't say I've noticed temp swings in different rigs. I'm guessing the larger one is, the bigger the swing could be because of more airflow?

I didnt remember the coil tightening video when mine arrived and I honestly thought a screwdriver could damage it by scratching. I cut a wooden door stop from a 2x4 and used that but, you have to be careful with soft woods as they'll break off.

The “temperature swings”, I’m referring to, are the different ones reported by various USERS, in this thread, not on my own individual rigs, temps are constant.
 
RustyOldNail,

SquirrelMaster

Well-Known Member
The “temperature swings”, I’m referring to, are the different ones reported by various USERS, in this thread, not on my own individual rigs, temps are constant.
I didn't recall seeing you have big temp swings. I just don't see how rig size would effect the temperature.
 
SquirrelMaster,

The Stray Fox

Separated from the group
Getting these balls heated up to see which female joints play well with my injector.
9C26B347-61DB-44B5-B48B-736B9F21FC12.jpeg
My first thoughts are, I don’t like the Ti injector joint in ground glass joints. I’m going to have to find some unground joint options and keep my fingers crossed that CH makes a Ti injector bowl or I did see CH say they were interested in maybe even a wood bowl (Ed maybe?) like the OH bowl and that it would possibly function for both standard diffuser and injector diffuser. The trick to this is finding a bowl that puts the herb at a distance that allows for an acceptable temperature range for the user. With that said, I hope their bowl in the future allows for adjustable screen heights.

Flavor is great in my favorite 575-600 range but I am left wanting to turn it up a bit. I’ve learned that’s not good for me. My bowl options just aren’t getting the herb close enough for my liking. Don’t get me wrong it’s milking and cashing the bowl I’m just back to pre baller days where some draw control is required.

Maybe it will act different on the B-1? I’m still enjoying it so much I didn’t want to tear it apart so for now I’m giving it a go on the B-2.
 

Texus

Well-Known Member
Getting these balls heated up to see which female joints play well with my injector.
View attachment 15221
My first thoughts are, I don’t like the Ti injector joint in ground glass joints. I’m going to have to find some unground joint options and keep my fingers crossed that CH makes a Ti injector bowl or I did see CH say they were interested in maybe even a wood bowl (Ed maybe?) like the OH bowl and that it would possibly function for both standard diffuser and injector diffuser. The trick to this is finding a bowl that puts the herb at a distance that allows for an acceptable temperature range for the user. With that said, I hope their bowl in the future allows for adjustable screen heights.

Flavor is great in my favorite 575-600 range but I am left wanting to turn it up a bit. I’ve learned that’s not good for me. My bowl options just aren’t getting the herb close enough for my liking. Don’t get me wrong it’s milking and cashing the bowl I’m just back to pre baller days where some draw control is required.

Maybe it will act different on the B-1? I’m still enjoying it so much I didn’t want to tear it apart so for now I’m giving it a go on the B-2.
Curious what it is your don't like about ground glass? I tend to find it preferable in most cases for the good seal that can be achieved..
 

The Stray Fox

Separated from the group
Curious what it is your don't like about ground glass? I tend to find it preferable in most cases for the good seal that can be achieved..
Agreed. I certainly use it all the time with no complaints. In this application it’s sticky and the bowls Im using don’t have handles. It’s basically a two handed operation to remove the head from the bowl. I would prefer to keep my hands away from the hot areas as much as possible. I am liking the idea of the injector and I think an elegant solution will present itself at some point.

I did get my GRAV 14m/18f joint and it puts the herb very close to the injector. No scorching at 575 and thick vapor. It’s still sticky but the joint is less gritty and I can shake the head loose if I don’t jam it in there.
You know I could probably just sant these to smooth them out.
C2844B93-D943-4E49-901C-5A9B07F7E9E0.jpeg
 
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