AVS m22

[Olde7]

If you're not impatient, you're a better man than me! As for "going silent", better look again. He commented 5 days ago and again yesterday, with updates.

And again today, sept3...

 

[JCat]

I've been using my M22 more and more lately, very much enjoying it.

This is the FIRST portable device where I find the vapour is plentiful and yet not harsh from rosin when hit native without water. Even with the super short vapour path (I'm using the mouthpiece from the DTv4 to extend the standard mouthpiece when using native) I can finish a dab of rosin in there in 2-3 very satisfying hits even dry. (through water, it's 1-2 hit)

The one thing I've found a little annoying, is the resistance creep, I assume due to the springs wearing from slight movement when swabbing clean (or from heat cycles). For example, when I install new springs (which I've gotten the hang of now), I'll get an initial resistance of .72-.74 ... then within 10-20 dabs, I'll find it's creeping above 0.8. And from there it continues quickly to 0.83-.85 ... if you simply adjust the locked base resistance, I find the TCR curve no longer works properly ... one needs to set the locked resistance below the read value, to get an accurate upper range temperature (ie. 360F-390F is where I'm running it)

Anyone else have this issue? Any tips on dealing with this? (apart from adjusting your TCR base resistance or your temperature accordingly?)

As long as one has the right TCR value, and right temperature for said TCR value for your desired results, it's always accurate and doesn't burn though ... by "accurate" meaning that it reaches and holds a temp accurately, but the temp might not match what's on the screen necessarily depending on one's TCR value and the current state of the springs ... just a hypothesis

 

[Deleted Member 1643]

Anyone else have this issue? Any tips on dealing with this?

Similar experience. @tennisguru1's suggestion to try mounting the ESCC without the housing has been the most helpful. Just be careful not to break the legs. (May even get up to temp more quickly.)

Current setup.

Dovpo Odin DNA250c.

Swapped top-cap for the Mutation X V5 for stock. Features top vortex airflow.

IME, the stock m22 top-cap quickly clogs with reclaim.

14mm joint (TAG hydratube) conveniently fits the Mutation X V5 drip tip!

 

[JCat]

So removed the housing and now my resistance seems stable at 0.58 (dropped down from 0.82)

I ran a clean cycle at 450f through it, and then a session, and my resistance dropped right back to 0.58 once cooled.

I’ll see how it goes over the next 10-20 bowls. I actually find it easier to install without the housing, so that’s in a way better anyways

 

[710yota]

I haven't really used the housing except for messing around with fitting it a few times. I haven't found any real need for it, my M22 does get hot when I'm really ripping through back to back hits but not enough to bother me. I find it much easier to install the ESCC and maintain a steady resistance without it.

I'm still loving my M22 and feeling for those who are still waiting, I haven't touched any of my other portables in months. The vortex top cap clogging with reclaim is one of my main issues so I really like that idea of using one from a different RDA, far cleaner then my idea which was just to drill out the vortex part of the stock cap.

 

[florduh]

I'm at 3 weeks of solid .75 resistance on an old Pico. No maintenance but q-tipping. My newer Wismec mod would generally have a .05 ohm rise by now. I'm wondering if "dumber" mods are better at handling the way resistance fluctuates through SiC?

I'm using the zirconia heat shield thing, cuz why not. On the beta SiC I couldn't use it, and kinda preferred the look of it. Also, if you were crazy you could load a small amount of oil on the outside walls of the crucible for extra vaporization surface area.

Anyone running it naked find the atty housing gets hotter than with the zirconia? It's not as if the thing is cool to the touch with the zirconia after a few back to back hits. I wonder if the SiC dish is less secure without it too. It is a little scary installing the SiC with the zirconia though. It requires a decent amount of force. Always worried about those legs.

Maybe I'll give it a whirl naked when it's time for another clip change. I don't know when that's gonna be though, cuz I'm at about a month of .75 ohms on the Pico. Still the simplest, fastest, way to get a perfect tasting dab I've found.

 

[JCat]

I don't find the atty housing gets any hotter one way or another. The zirconia housing heats up and holds that heat as well, so in actuality I think it cools faster without it, although the heat transfer to the housing might be slightly faster without the housing, the end result is the same (either way the heat eventually makes its way to the atomizer, so with the housing it makes its way slower and dissipates slower, and without the housing it makes its way faster and dissipates faster ...)

Edit: I've switched to a Pico 75 over my DNA250C as well, I don't find it performs better/worse, but the smaller size and weight, as well as the autofire, lends to better use with the bottomless banger.

I also just ordered an Evic Primo Mini as I think w/ the M22 the AF firmware is doing as good of a job for me as the DNA. (now without the zirconia housing I'm at maybe 7-8 sessions, and no movement whatsoever from the base resistance of <0.58 ... super stable and super stable temp control it seems ... no burning whatsoever, and easy cleanup. I've also run some 450F cleaning cycles through it that have worked amazingly, and have not affected the resistance whatsoever)

 

[invertedisdead]

I also just ordered an Evic Primo Mini as I think w/ the M22 the AF firmware is doing as good of a job for me as the DNA.

Damn I had a Primo Mini and it was a total lemon, has a known "weak battery" error, where it makes a poor connection and won't fire at all, with your electronics understanding you might have better luck than me, there's lots of vids on youtube about it, unfortunately I was never able to fix mine.

 

[al bundy]

My Pico died waiting for another
Been using the Eleaf 21700
Pretty bunch bigger Pico
Working pretty good with settings TCR 131 ,46 watts ,480f, Arctic Fox

 

[JCat]

Damn I had a Primo Mini and it was a total lemon, has a known "weak battery" error, where it makes a poor connection and won't fire at all, with your electronics understanding you might have better luck than me, there's lots of vids on youtube about it, unfortunately I was never able to fix mine.

Only paid ~$33 CAD for it ... so for the price

 

[JCat]

Starting to see some resistance creep after a few days of steady usage ... that being said, my clips were already "shot" for use with the zirconia housing when I switched to without a few days ago ... it doesn't seem worth switching clips yet though, as temp control still seems fine, just the "at rest" resistance is a little high, so the reported temperature "at rest" with the lower locked resistance is off, but it doesn't seem to have affected the "top end" temperature yet ...

 

[florduh]

just the "at rest" resistance is a little high, so the reported temperature "at rest" with the lower locked resistance is off, but it doesn't seem to have affected the "top end" temperature yet ...

If that's the new resistance reading at room temperature, you could lock the mod at the new temp. Even nicotine vaporists who use temp control will re-lock their resistance intermittently. Because every coil's resistance will rise a little over time. That's just how it goes with mod based temp control.

With my last set of clips, I relocked the resistance once or twice, after the ohms were off by more than .05. This most recent set of clips is still rocking at .75 ohms, so I haven't had to mess with anything this month.

 

[JCat]

If that's the new resistance reading at room temperature, you could lock the mod at the new temp. Even nicotine vaporists who use temp control will re-lock their resistance intermittently. Because every coil's resistance will rise a little over time. That's just how it goes with mod based temp control.

With my last set of clips, I relocked the resistance once or twice, after the ohms were off by more than .05. This most recent set of clips is still rocking at .75 ohms, so I haven't had to mess with anything this month.

Yes, I realize that, and that's what I've done (now locked at 0.6), but I feel this does have a trade-off ... as you increase your base resistance, the actual temperatures go up vs what is displayed (ie. 410F feels hotter locked at 0.6 then it did when locked at 0.58); so as I increase the base resistance, I decrease my set-temp, as otherwise, it's too hot. I'm still at 0.6 though, and I'm sure I've put a good 15-20 dabs per day on this thing since Monday (ie. likely at ~50-60 dabs since removing the zirconia housing, and resistance has only risen by 0.02, maybe 0.025). And these clips likely had another 20-30 dabs through them before getting rid of the zirconia housing (some of those where the temp was much too hot, as the resistance wasn't stable and was jumping all over for the back-half of those 20-30 dabs with the housing)

 

[florduh]

Yes, I realize that, and that's what I've done (now locked at 0.6), but I feel this does have a trade-off ... as you increase your base resistance, the actual temperatures go up vs what is displayed (ie. 410F feels hotter locked at 0.6 then it did when locked at 0.58); so as I increase the base resistance, I decrease my set-temp, as otherwise, it's too hot. I'm still at 0.6 though, and I'm sure I've put a good 15-20 dabs per day on this thing since Monday (ie. likely at ~50-60 dabs since removing the zirconia housing, and resistance has only risen by 0.02, maybe 0.025). And these clips likely had another 20-30 dabs through them before getting rid of the zirconia housing (some of those where the temp was much too hot, as the resistance wasn't stable and was jumping all over for the back-half of those 20-30 dabs with the housing)

Interesting. I guess I'm not super well versed in how temp control works. My assumption was that if I lock the "room temp" base resistance, every other temp will be based off of that. When I did have to re-lock resistance on my Wismec mod, the "live temp" on my mod at rest would read 90+ degrees F. After locking again, it would come down to 70-75F. I just assumed if the base temp was reading more or less correctly, then 400F would be about 400F.

Out of curiosity, are you using the Arctic Fox TFR curve Brent posted on Reddit, or are you setting a TCR value manually? The TFR curve requires replacing Ni/Ti or one of the other coil materials with a "SiC" curve. I assume that helps with accuracy.

I've also seen that just taking the ESCC out and replugging it in will lower resistance and help delay a clip change or deep clean a bit.

Hopefully the new AVS mod will take a lot of the guesswork out of all this.

 

[VirginVape10X]

I placed an order for the M22 RDA w/ESCC and a bottomless banger back on 7/27 to the tune of nearly $240. I sent AVS an email on the current status of my order considering the FDA PMTA situation....crickets. Before I request my cc to cancel the order, what is the typical wait time? Tia.

 

[florduh]

I placed an order for the M22 RDA w/ESCC and a bottomless banger back on 7/27 to the tune of nearly $240.

I ordered the M22 in August of 2019 and received the final version in July 2020. But that was for a pre-order

Glancing at Reddit, it looks like there's another wave of shipments going out. I'd maybe go to advancedvapesupply.com and hit the little "chat" button to ask them what's up.

Or if you remember the email addy you gave when you bought, try creating an account with it on their site. You'll be able to see if there's a USPS tracking number yet.

 

[JCat]

Loving my M22 still set of spring clips lasted me ~3 weeks of pretty heavy usage. And were nice and easy to change I think my problem was more just needing a thorough cleaning more so then a change of clips, but figured might as well change them while cleaning (at $1 a pair, might as well change them whenever I take them out ... treat them as disposable to a degree)

I would like a better portable bubbler setup; I don't love the M22 bubbler, I just find it too big and bulky (and too many pieces). I was looking at the G9 Vapes (Greenlight Vapes) bubblers, and was wondering if anyone had any idea of the fit of these? They look like they might work well if they have the correct ~19mm diameter ...

Epro Glass Attachment | enail-420-vaporizers

Only compatible with Epro.enail-420-vaporizers

www.greenlightvapes.com

Henail Ball Glass Attachment | enail-420-vaporizers

Compatible with Henail, Henail Plus, 510Nail and Tc port.enail-420-vaporizers

www.greenlightvapes.com

Henail Recycler Attachment | enail-420-vaporizers

Compatible with Henail, Henail Plus, 510Nail and Tc port.enail-420-vaporizers

www.greenlightvapes.com

 

[Deleted Member 1643]

wondering if anyone had any idea of the fit of these?

Those look interesting and inexpensive enough. An external air path definitely helps with reclaim. You might try asking on r/Waxpen - there's always lively discussion of bubblers.

Been using TAG's hydratube which fits well enough on the m22 drip tip. Will probably get a recycler for a bottomless banger set-up once AVS' 510 extension cable is available.

 

[510MOD]

Loving my M22 still set of spring clips lasted me ~3 weeks of pretty heavy usage. And were nice and easy to change I think my problem was more just needing a thorough cleaning more so then a change of clips, but figured might as well change them while cleaning (at $1 a pair, might as well change them whenever I take them out ... treat them as disposable to a degree)

I would like a better portable bubbler setup; I don't love the M22 bubbler, I just find it too big and bulky (and too many pieces). I was looking at the G9 Vapes (Greenlight Vapes) bubblers, and was wondering if anyone had any idea of the fit of these? They look like they might work well if they have the correct ~19mm diameter ...

Epro Glass Attachment | enail-420-vaporizers

Only compatible with Epro.enail-420-vaporizers

www.greenlightvapes.com

Henail Ball Glass Attachment | enail-420-vaporizers

Compatible with Henail, Henail Plus, 510Nail and Tc port.enail-420-vaporizers

www.greenlightvapes.com

Henail Recycler Attachment | enail-420-vaporizers

Compatible with Henail, Henail Plus, 510Nail and Tc port.enail-420-vaporizers

www.greenlightvapes.com

The ID for the M22 attachment must be 19.90 mm or greater. I believe these are 20mm ID but could be wrong. I recall them fitting my QQ and I recall people are putting them on their DTv4's recently on IG which is almost identical in OD at the orings so they should fit but they leave you no room for bubble caps so you have to use flat carb caps. Hopefully that is helpful. Good luck!

 

[510vaporent]

Loving my M22 still set of spring clips lasted me ~3 weeks of pretty heavy usage. And were nice and easy to change I think my problem was more just needing a thorough cleaning more so then a change of clips, but figured might as well change them while cleaning (at $1 a pair, might as well change them whenever I take them out ... treat them as disposable to a degree)

I would like a better portable bubbler setup; I don't love the M22 bubbler, I just find it too big and bulky (and too many pieces). I was looking at the G9 Vapes (Greenlight Vapes) bubblers, and was wondering if anyone had any idea of the fit of these? They look like they might work well if they have the correct ~19mm diameter ...

Epro Glass Attachment | enail-420-vaporizers

Only compatible with Epro.enail-420-vaporizers

www.greenlightvapes.com

Henail Ball Glass Attachment | enail-420-vaporizers

Compatible with Henail, Henail Plus, 510Nail and Tc port.enail-420-vaporizers

www.greenlightvapes.com

Henail Recycler Attachment | enail-420-vaporizers

Compatible with Henail, Henail Plus, 510Nail and Tc port.enail-420-vaporizers

www.greenlightvapes.com

The top bubbler is very large doesn’t really fit anything but maybe trvp and sequoia the bottom two are very small and only fit the quartz quest not the dtv4, m22, or saionara which all have similar diameters

 

[JCat]

Thanks @510vaporent ... too bad though

 

[JCat]

@PlanetVape has gotten back to me on this recycler, and indicated that the inner diameter is 20mm

So I've ordered one to try out (along with an Evic VTwo Mini ... I like these 1x18650 Joyetech mods ... they perform admirably with the M22 temp control w/ Arctic Fox, and are light enough that hanging off your bottomless banger isn't an issue)

On another note, I ordered a DTv4 Bottomless Banger from The Herb Cafe, and although the BB itself didn't fit on the M22 (it did upside down but not right side up), the bubble carb cap is a perfect fit for the M22 BB; so that's good The experience w/ the M22 with a directional carb cap is SO much better!!!!

 

[florduh]

My resistance started to rise in late September. Instead of doing a clip change, I just soaked the whole thing in ISO then re-installed the ESCC without the zirconia dish. The resistance has been about .66 ohms ever since.

At this point, I've been rocking the same spring clips since early August. Still performing with excellent temperature control.

I was thinking... with the recent sale of the non-temp control dishes. If the biggest complaint about this thing is getting temp control to work properly... wouldn't the M22 just be a non-butane, cheaper Rio Stache? Cold start dabs on SiC.

I've had no issues with TC mind you. Just a thought.

 

[Azn2101]

Really enjoying the m22 on the Paranormal & Pico with AF. Performance when dialed in is very similar to each other with an TC ESCC.

Quick question, what O-Rings would you guys recommend getting when I run out of the AVS brand ones.

I got mine 2nd hand and it seemed like there were two different types of deck O-Rings but I’m not sure if that was a revision from the parts package if they even revised the O-Rings at all which if there wasn’t there might’ve been a few sets of O-Rings from another unit thrown in maybe?

Some people say the DTV4 O-Rings are ok but that they also are a little too wide so they get caught and slide out of the groove when something is trying to fit around them so I was wondering if that is just a few peoples experience or if there’s a better option that’s universally used.

 

[florduh]

Really enjoying the m22 on the Paranormal & Pico with AF. Performance when dialed in is very similar to each other with an TC ESCC.

Quick question, what O-Rings would you guys recommend getting when I run out of the AVS brand ones.

I got mine 2nd hand and it seemed like there were two different types of deck O-Rings but I’m not sure if that was a revision from the parts package if they even revised the O-Rings at all which if there wasn’t there might’ve been a few sets of O-Rings from another unit thrown in maybe?

Some people say the DTV4 O-Rings are ok but that they also are a little too wide so they get caught and slide out of the groove when something is trying to fit around them so I was wondering if that is just a few peoples experience or if there’s a better option that’s universally used.

I didn't realize they don't have replacement o-rings available for purchase yet.

I'd probably hit the chat button on the AVS site and ask what they recommend.