Arizer Solo II

nori41

New Member
Again, I haven't seen one, but strongly suspect they're using the same oven (why reinvent it again after Air?). It's not realistic to expect it to be exactly centered, there are too many bits that effect its exact placement (which is why the hole in the top is bigger and the part you're worried about is compliant.....this is a glass part in a tight fit. "Something has to give" or you get broken glass. Or stems that fall out.

That part ('brace ring') FLOATS, it is intended to move to match alignments.

I believe what you see is quite normal. And I trust Arizer when they tell you the same thing. No reason I see to return it, I'd start enjoying it. In the end it's a tool, only really useful if it does a needed job.

OF

Yes, it seems the same oven.
I understand what you say, the glass must be tight fit.
But I ask to me why the "brace ring" should be floating , if it's screwed with the white body ?
Maybe you meant that the upper piece when you say "float, it is intended to move to match alignments" ?
But then, if I had to remove the upper piece (the only piece that does not seem strong fixed ) , seeing how it is made the body and the brace ring, I should see all centered, therefore.

That is, I believe that, as you say, must be some tolerance and something must be "soft" and/or float for hold tight the glass, but I wonder why they can not keep everything rather centered.

Anyway I trust Arizer, and yes, I agree with you that it's useful if it does a needed job , but also that it did it for how it was designed and in the best way :-)
Only, if it were possible, I would be happy if I could see more device for comparison.
 

OF

Well-Known Member
But I ask to me why the "brace ring" should be floating , if it's screwed with the white body ?
Maybe you meant that the upper piece when you say "float, it is intended to move to match alignments" ?
But then, if I had to remove the upper piece (the only piece that does not seem strong fixed ) , seeing how it is made the body and the brace ring, I should see all centered, therefore.

We're not communicating well here I fear. What are you calling the 'brace ring' (their term...)? I believe it's the soft ring you're worried about. It snaps over the nut like piece with the 3 ribs that screws on the white body. The bottom piece in the photo I posted:
6V0F57D.jpg


The soft 'doughnut' that snaps over the lip on the part above it with the seals. You can see the lip on the top of the part with the seals.

The stem alignment is controlled by those 3 ribs. Not the oven body, hole in the cap or the 'brace ring' we're discussing. The place the oven 'lands' is subject to all kinds of 'tolerance buildup' from the body is bolted to what's below it, and how that attaches on down to the bottom where it then depends on the tube and top plate (and the screws) to get back to the top. The 'Holy Point" in the alignement is that nut with the ribs, everything else is relative to it.

Yes, you could demand extreme precision with all the rest of the parts and end up with very good alignment, but sound engineering/cost control calls for keeping tolerances wide as possible considtent with performance of the completed unit. In short they could make it perfect (or nearly so) but you wouldn't be willing to pay for it?

Arizer has a long history of sound products, IMO they know what they're up to. Design and manufacture. You'll notice very very few problems with Solo and Air. Almost zero 'out of box failures'. Even the battery packs seem to defy the numbers. The could always blow Beta testing and release a turkey of course, it's just the odds are very low. And they could ship you a reject unit, but those odds are mighty long as well. Not impossible, of course, but far less likely than other explanations.

If it were mine I'd have already 'overcharged before first use' and be enjoying it......and probably have more to offer the discussion?

Your call.

OF
 

shawn0223

Well-Known Member
Got black today a day early.
Not home but it's charging while I work.
I'm at work too and don't get home till like 7. It's in my room on my bed. I considered having the wife open and put it on charge so I can get the overcharge started but I wanna be the one to open the package lmao. I'll just stay up late and break it in haha
 

AJS

Calm Consistency
L7YOELr.jpg

Lj7t9VL.jpg

kb9E39N.jpg


Have her charging during shift ... gunna possibly do a burn off secretly at work ... and try her out on break! Muahaha.

Gunna read the manual for fun between calls.

I love how it says "owners manual" like it's not anyone else's. "Hey man can I read the manual?" "Sorry bro but they clearly state it's for the owner :shrug:"
:haw::D
 

Custom Flower Hardware

Well-Known Member
Manufacturer
L7YOELr.jpg

Lj7t9VL.jpg

kb9E39N.jpg


Have her charging during shift ... gunna possibly do a burn off secretly at work ... and try her out on break! Muahaha.

Gunna read the manual for fun between calls.

I love how it says "owners manual" like it's not anyone else's. "Hey man can I read the manual?" "Sorry bro but they clearly state it's for the owner :shrug:"
:haw::D
The mailman pic is classic!:tup:
 

AJS

Calm Consistency
The mailman pic is classic!:tup:
Normally I drive around until I find him and get pics of him in the wild ... but I was afraid of missing him and needing signature ...

I get a pic of him for nearly every vape I've gotten. ;) :D:haw::tinfoil:

The charging bar on the Solo2 has reached maximum! (My solo 2 is charged..lol). Gunna keep it plugged in until break and soak up whatever overcharge I can get as recommended.
Does the red light on the charger ever go off?
 

whatitdew

Vapes R Great
Got my Carbon Black

Fit and finish is very very nice. Everything looks top notch. Love the little storage tubes for the stems.

I did a long burn off at full heat and this thing does not get hot at all. I wasn't even sure it was working right LOL

Very impressed so far. Almost fully charged and then it's GO TIME
 

AJS

Calm Consistency
Got my Carbon Black

Fit and finish is very very nice. Everything looks top notch. Love the little storage tubes for the stems.

I did a long burn off at full heat and this thing does not get hot at all. I wasn't even sure it was working right LOL

Very impressed so far. Almost fully charged and then it's GO TIME
Today is the day this page blows up (I hope)!! If you finish charge before my work is over lemme know how she is! I can't wait!! Took mine about 2 hours.
 

al bundy

Vaporist
Love the "Hi and :) "when I plugged it in
Dig the size and feel in your hand

Power supply cord is much longer than original

My serial number is a sticker on the bottom.
I do wish the top was black but no big deal
I wonder if they'll offer a gray/silver Solo ll.
Will try in a few hours.
I have some Blue Dream and a little OG concentrate for Solo run.
 

BigJr48

Well-Known Member
Just finished doing 5 continuous burn offs, battery consumption 1/4; during each burn off a stem was inserted, Arizer issued entered perfect, extra from Agracan was slightly defective harder to insert.
 
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OF

Well-Known Member
I just received & unboxed my Purple Haze/Blue Dream Machine, doing burn off's as we speak...

While I understand the urge to do otherwise, I think the best advice for best possible battery life is to fully charge before the first discharge. Even 'overcharge' (I recommend four or more hours past 'full') before the first discharge by heating.

This is the first time only. Once the first discharge happens the potential advantage is lost.

This can help set the capacity for the bank as high as possible. This will slowly degrade over time of course, but the higher you can set it the longer that will take and the more 'sessions per charge' you will enjoy from then on. Probably not a big difference in most cases, say several percent, but worth considering. New owners are encouraged to do so if that kind of stuff (best battery life) interests you.

Ironically, after that first cycle, the 'smart money' says to avoid completely charging if possible. Stopping 10% early might cost you 'a session per charge' but will DOUBLE the number of recharges before the battery needs replacement. Two times more recharges. Twice as long as normal? Every time you do this (stop at 4.1 Volts per cell, 8.2 total, rather than 4.2 for 8.4 total) you get a 'free recharge cycle. Stop .2 Volts lower and you doubt it again. Two sessions per charge less but four times the charges before replacement? Not a hard call for me to make.

Not as big a deal in a vape like Air where replacing the 18650 cell is cheap and easy, but in a unit like Solo (either model), Ascent and so on it's worth considering I think.

BTW. this effect (shortened life from full charges over extended times) is why you get new 18650s and battery packs at 'about 3/4 charge', because makers know full charge will slowly kill the battery just sitting in stock.

The military typically specifies 3.95 plus or minus .05 Volts (3.90 to 4.00) rather than the normal 4.20 (4.15 to 4.25 Volts) which of course gives more 'sessions per charge' but also sells more replacement battery packs sooner. Both things 'suits' (sales types) favor. The Military, OTOH, is trying to avoid replacement of battery packs in the field. They'll sacrifice some battery life (per charge) to get it.

It's an 'owner call' of course, but I think part of informed choices includes such considerations? I believe it enough to build a 'gadget' to automatically stop the charge early, one model looks like this:
jy0w0hN.jpg


The normal charger plugs in upper right, the cable into Solo. Pushing the button (lower right), which pokes through the cover, starts the charging by the transistor in the upper right corner. When the level reaches the point set by the blue adjustmeent between the switch and transistor the processor on the left shuts the charging down and beeps the beeper to let you know. There are, I think, 8 or 9 Beta units out there with some of the usual suspects. AFAIK none of my kluges has broken down (some of the first were hand made and a bit crude) and nobody using one has killed their Solo battery yet? I personally have tried very hard to wear my original (four year old now?) Solo out without much to show for it. I still get 'a session per LED' on it.

OF
 

BigJr48

Well-Known Member
While I understand the urge to do otherwise, I think the best advice for best possible battery life is to fully charge before the first discharge. Even 'overcharge' (I recommend four or more hours past 'full') before the first discharge by heating.

This is the first time only. Once the first discharge happens the potential advantage is lost.

This can help set the capacity for the bank as high as possible. This will slowly degrade over time of course, but the higher you can set it the longer that will take and the more 'sessions per charge' you will enjoy from then on. Probably not a big difference in most cases, say several percent, but worth considering. New owners are encouraged to do so if that kind of stuff (best battery life) interests you.

Ironically, after that first cycle, the 'smart money' says to avoid completely charging if possible. Stopping 10% early might cost you 'a session per charge' but will DOUBLE the number of recharges before the battery needs replacement. Two times more recharges. Twice as long as normal? Every time you do this (stop at 4.1 Volts per cell, 8.2 total, rather than 4.2 for 8.4 total) you get a 'free recharge cycle. Stop .2 Volts lower and you doubt it again. Two sessions per charge less but four times the charges before replacement? Not a hard call for me to make.

Not as big a deal in a vape like Air where replacing the 18650 cell is cheap and easy, but in a unit like Solo (either model), Ascent and so on it's worth considering I think.

BTW. this effect (shortened life from full charges over extended times) is why you get new 18650s and battery packs at 'about 3/4 charge', because makers know full charge will slowly kill the battery just sitting in stock.

The military typically specifies 3.95 plus or minus .05 Volts (3.90 to 4.00) rather than the normal 4.20 (4.15 to 4.25 Volts) which of course gives more 'sessions per charge' but also sells more replacement battery packs sooner. Both things 'suits' (sales types) favor. The Military, OTOH, is trying to avoid replacement of battery packs in the field. They'll sacrifice some battery life (per charge) to get it.

It's an 'owner call' of course, but I think part of informed choices includes such considerations? I believe it enough to build a 'gadget' to automatically stop the charge early, one model looks like this:
jy0w0hN.jpg


The normal charger plugs in upper right, the cable into Solo. Pushing the button (lower right), which pokes through the cover, starts the charging by the transistor in the upper right corner. When the level reaches the point set by the blue adjustmeent between the switch and transistor the processor on the left shuts the charging down and beeps the beeper to let you know. There are, I think, 8 or 9 Beta units out there with some of the usual suspects. AFAIK none of my kluges has broken down (some of the first were hand made and a bit crude) and nobody using one has killed their Solo battery yet? I personally have tried very hard to wear my original (four year old now?) Solo out without much to show for it. I still get 'a session per LED' on it.

OF

I followed your recommendation as you quoted in a earlier post before doing the burn offs.
 

lemmeadem

Well-Known Member
While I understand the urge to do otherwise, I think the best advice for best possible battery life is to fully charge before the first discharge. Even 'overcharge' (I recommend four or more hours past 'full') before the first discharge by heating.

This is the first time only. Once the first discharge happens the potential advantage is lost.

This can help set the capacity for the bank as high as possible. This will slowly degrade over time of course, but the higher you can set it the longer that will take and the more 'sessions per charge' you will enjoy from then on. Probably not a big difference in most cases, say several percent, but worth considering. New owners are encouraged to do so if that kind of stuff (best battery life) interests you.

Ironically, after that first cycle, the 'smart money' says to avoid completely charging if possible. Stopping 10% early might cost you 'a session per charge' but will DOUBLE the number of recharges before the battery needs replacement. Two times more recharges. Twice as long as normal? Every time you do this (stop at 4.1 Volts per cell, 8.2 total, rather than 4.2 for 8.4 total) you get a 'free recharge cycle. Stop .2 Volts lower and you doubt it again. Two sessions per charge less but four times the charges before replacement? Not a hard call for me to make.

Not as big a deal in a vape like Air where replacing the 18650 cell is cheap and easy, but in a unit like Solo (either model), Ascent and so on it's worth considering I think.

BTW. this effect (shortened life from full charges over extended times) is why you get new 18650s and battery packs at 'about 3/4 charge', because makers know full charge will slowly kill the battery just sitting in stock.

The military typically specifies 3.95 plus or minus .05 Volts (3.90 to 4.00) rather than the normal 4.20 (4.15 to 4.25 Volts) which of course gives more 'sessions per charge' but also sells more replacement battery packs sooner. Both things 'suits' (sales types) favor. The Military, OTOH, is trying to avoid replacement of battery packs in the field. They'll sacrifice some battery life (per charge) to get it.

It's an 'owner call' of course, but I think part of informed choices includes such considerations? I believe it enough to build a 'gadget' to automatically stop the charge early, one model looks like this:
jy0w0hN.jpg


The normal charger plugs in upper right, the cable into Solo. Pushing the button (lower right), which pokes through the cover, starts the charging by the transistor in the upper right corner. When the level reaches the point set by the blue adjustmeent between the switch and transistor the processor on the left shuts the charging down and beeps the beeper to let you know. There are, I think, 8 or 9 Beta units out there with some of the usual suspects. AFAIK none of my kluges has broken down (some of the first were hand made and a bit crude) and nobody using one has killed their Solo battery yet? I personally have tried very hard to wear my original (four year old now?) Solo out without much to show for it. I still get 'a session per LED' on it.

OF

OF - you reckon a tear down will yield a battery replacement like the previous Solo or is there something to suggest the battery really only is manufacturer replaceable?

Only reason I ask is because my old Solos battery went and the replacement battery was incredible - I think if anything were to fail in an Arizer vape it would be the battery after copious use. Pretty hard to kill the Arizer heating element, it seems.
 

AJS

Calm Consistency
Gets to temp ... what seems to be instantaneously ... but within about 15 seconds in my conditions

Did 2 burnoffs (probably not enough tbh) and am currently vaping on break.

Started at 365 and still got thick clouds. Like surprisingly thick for 365. Turned it up to 380 and it was pumping out vapor like crazy. You rip .. it produces. Seems much stronger than my Arizer Air. Had to cut it short ... getting too stoned to finish off the last hour of my shift. Have a friend coming over tonight to break this bad boy in. Gunna be a hell of a time. This vape is more than I wanted ... good feeling.

We'll see how I feel when honeymoon phase ends. It's weird getting used to a session vape again ... I literally only have on demand vapes. Milaana GH Dynavap M and Vapman. Been that way for about a year now. This thing heats up and I'm like ... wait so ... I just hit it and not click anything off? (That is going to be a difficult urge to break I can tell).

Fun tho ... oh so fun. With the clouds I was getting at 365-380 I'm excited to see what she can do.
 

OF

Well-Known Member
OF - you reckon a tear down will yield a battery replacement like the previous Solo or is there something to suggest the battery really only is manufacturer replaceable?

I would think so, it's a logical way to build such things. I think we'll find a similar pack with higher capacity perhaps?

"A man built it, a man can take it apart" is probably still in play, they want to be able to work on them or they'd glue them together. Using torx screws, as has been reported, is going to make it that much harder for owners to do of course. One can speculate on why that happened.

Measuring the pack capacity (by integrating the recharge current over time 'from bottom to top') should be an interesting test to do.

If/when I get one of my own, I already own torx drivers. Curiosity will no doubt lead me to blow the warranty and crack it open as usually happens....... Then, perhaps, we'll know more?

OF
 

shawn0223

Well-Known Member
Normally I drive around until I find him and get pics of him in the wild ... but I was afraid of missing him and needing signature ...

I get a pic of him for nearly every vape I've gotten. ;) :D:haw::tinfoil:

The charging bar on the Solo2 has reached maximum! (My solo 2 is charged..lol). Gunna keep it plugged in until break and soak up whatever overcharge I can get as recommended.
Does the red light on the charger ever go off?

Mines been on charge for about 3 hrs and the battery icon isn't moving but the LED is still red. Yours ever change to green? Thing looks amazing and can't wait to use it. Only disappointment is that the stems they shipped with have the smaller airflow holes. Significantly smaller than the ones that came with my air, also smaller than the bendy solo stem I got from Randy everytime I break them lol. Glad the OG solo stem works cuz it has better airflow.

Edit: how many burn offs you guys doing before using? I've seen 3 and 5 so far. 5 should be enough right?
 
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al bundy

Vaporist
The red light on the power supply?
wont change to green only a visual that there's power I believe
On the original it only glows red while plugged in.

I bought diamond drill bits for dremmel from eBay cheap ,a little water And you can make the holes as big as you want.
 

shawn0223

Well-Known Member
The red light on the power supply?
wont change to green only a visual that there's power I believe
On the original it only glows red while plugged in.

I bought diamond drill bits for dremmel from eBay cheap ,a little water And you can make the holes as big as you want.

Don't have any of those rotory drill tools lol. Didn't think I should invest in one just for stems haha. Good to know tho. Might get one and try in the future lol. I'm tired and got work in the morning so I'll let the damn thing over charge through the night and do a few burn offs while getting ready for work, then I'll give it a test on the drive to work
 
shawn0223,

AJS

Calm Consistency
Mines been on charge for about 3 hrs and the battery icon isn't moving but the LED is still red. Yours ever change to green? Thing looks amazing and can't wait to use it. Only disappointment is that the stems they shipped with have the smaller airflow holes. Significantly smaller than the ones that came with my air, also smaller than the bendy solo stem I got from Randy everytime I break them lol. Glad the OG solo stem works cuz it has better airflow.

Edit: how many burn offs you guys doing before using? I've seen 3 and 5 so far. 5 should be enough right?
Battery indicator should switch between its charge level and full in a blinking fashion until it's just all the way full. Mine was almost full when I received it..maybe 70%

I did 3-4 burnoffs and 4 back to back seshes and it seems gone now. Didn't seem gone until I ran herb through it.

Edit:
 
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