Advanced E-cig users and oil/wax, how-to "one-hitter-quitter"

mystikalghost

Well-Known Member
Anyone have suggestions on a unit to rebuild? Just got paid and the mPT3 + PG method isn't as great as I thought it would be so I figure it's time to rebuild my first coil. I am thinking of working on the 2nd mPT3 coil I have even though it is sooooooo small.

Or if I am feeling adventurous I could rebuild one of my KISS carts....

Sweet, found an mPT3 rebuild video. DUAL coils. The audio is horrible though.

Gonna pull the trigger soon.
ISyoN1j.png
 
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mystikalghost,

Puffers

Micro-Climate Mastermind
I have been using the same coil (dual ribbons 1.2ohmish iirc on a slightly u shaped piece of eko wool) setup for weeks now and it's been working great. Worked well for camping last weekend and just got me through 3 days in Disneyland. I over loaded and fried the oil a bit while while camping but a 30 second dry burn had it good as new for some more abuse in the most magical place on earth :D . It was a life saver being able to medicate with 3 hits in under 30 seconds flat, inconspicuously in a bathroom full of people and kids.

I did get kinda pulled over the other month using one of my sub ohm rigs for juice because the narc undercover said it looked like I was "smoking dope". I showed him the rig and educated him a bit to hopefully prevent the next guy from getting hassled. The next day I went and bought another nemesis mod to have one dedicated to juice and one for errl so they look identical to an observer.
 

doc

Member
I have been using the same coil (dual ribbons 1.2ohmish iirc on a slightly u shaped piece of eko wool) setup for weeks now and it's been working great.
Nice, very pro, I'm on week 4/gram 4 on my ecowool 30g build. I have no idea what ohms its running but Im guessing 2.5ish by how long it takes to glow red. The snoop dogg pen is seeing more time than any of my mmj pieces.

Anyone have suggestions on a unit to rebuild?

Don't get that huge atty unless you're ready for serious building. You'll pretty much make a mess lol. You'll also need wick and wire to rebuild the atomizer, and maybe some way of checking the resistance to make sure its safe. If you tell me what you're looking to build I can make some educated suggestions. My favorite concentrate pen is honestly my rebuilt snoop pen. Its got a small chamber, theoretically you don't need wick because of the ceramic dish, and its easy to load. Maybe try looking at something small and easy to scrape like the igo-s or smoketech dripper.

I really want to try some ceramic braided wick, but that'll be in next week's report or something.
edit: $30 setup, 2 week shipping time.

http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10004594/1632300-authentic-innokin-itaste-vv-v3-0-vv-vw-800mah

http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10007487/1651801-authentic-smoktech-dripper-rda

http://www.fasttech.com/products/1411/10003951/1384603

I would personally buy kanthal from temco industries in SoCal, and wick you can choose just dont try and vape on cotton.
 
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mystikalghost

Well-Known Member
Nice, very pro, I'm on week 4/gram 4 on my ecowool 30g build. I have no idea what ohms its running but Im guessing 2.5ish by how long it takes to glow red. The snoop dogg pen is seeing more time than any of my mmj pieces.



Don't get that huge atty unless you're ready for serious building. You'll pretty much make a mess lol. You'll also need wick and wire to rebuild the atomizer, and maybe some way of checking the resistance to make sure its safe. If you tell me what you're looking to build I can make some educated suggestions. My favorite concentrate pen is honestly my rebuilt snoop pen. Its got a small chamber, theoretically you don't need wick because of the ceramic dish, and its easy to load. Maybe try looking at something small and easy to scrape like the igo-s or smoketech dripper.

I really want to try some ceramic braided wick, but that'll be in next week's report or something.
edit: $30 setup, 2 week shipping time.

http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10004594/1632300-authentic-innokin-itaste-vv-v3-0-vv-vw-800mah

http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10007487/1651801-authentic-smoktech-dripper-rda

http://www.fasttech.com/products/1411/10003951/1384603

I would personally buy kanthal from temco industries in SoCal, and wick you can choose just dont try and vape on cotton.

I was eyeing the innokin VV the other day pretty hard. I am torn between that or the MVP. Basically I want to drop around $30 right now and I can either get a new ego twist battery (my current one has stripped threading on the inside connector) and a new cartridge or get the Innokin and try and rebuild one of my mPT3 coils. I would prefer something like below instead of a big mod like the one you posted. I want easy to load and low mess. I don't want the oil going everywhere after the coil melts it like getting in air holes or anything. I have also thought about getting a normal protank and rebuilding one. 510 threaded is necessary, though.



I have an O-Phos and I really like the ceramic cup. This dude on reddit rebuilt his kanger aerotank and it looks like a beast.
izjBxBt.jpg
 
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mystikalghost,

doc

Member
I was eyeing the innokin VV the other day pretty hard. I am torn between that or the MVP. Basically I want to drop around $30 right now and I can either get a new ego twist battery (my current one has stripped threading on the inside connector)
...

This dude on reddit rebuilt his kanger aerotank and it looks like a beast.

Good sir, with vv pen-style I can't stress buying authentic devices. Your ego stripped more than likely because it was a clone that used aluminum instead of steel for threading.

As for the protank rebuild, you can see he only loaded about 1-2 hits of really HQ stuff. Its not enough to get runny, but mesh concerns me as it tastes oh so nasty with a hint of dry burn. You can definately try to rebuild your kanger this way, I saw that picture and wanted to try it on my old protank 2 as well. Actually the mesh in the picture is why I just spent $12/ft for cermic wick hahaha.

btw heres a shot of the snoop rebuild
http://imgur.com/M1cfaMM
hopefully you can see my coil and wick are physically touching the ceramic deck. Im using a chubby 30g wire that stays warm and keeps itself wicked. 28g would be too slow for the 3.3-3.7v snoop pen. Right now im trying to mount a g-pen connector on a new project box so I can vape with a 18650+ sigelie kick lol.

2clicker, http://www.vapordna.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=TG0002&Click=38 looks messy AF
 
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mystikalghost

Well-Known Member
Good sir, with vv pen-style I can't stress buying authentic devices. Your ego stripped more than likely because it was a clone that used aluminum instead of steel for threading.

As for the protank rebuild, you can see he only loaded about 1-2 hits of really HQ stuff. Its not enough to get runny, but mesh concerns me as it tastes oh so nasty with a hint of dry burn. You can definately try to rebuild your kanger this way, I saw that picture and wanted to try it on my old protank 2 as well. Actually the mesh in the picture is why I just spent $12/ft for cermic wick hahaha.

btw heres a shot of the snoop rebuild
http://imgur.com/M1cfaMM
hopefully you can see my coil and wick are physically touching the ceramic deck. Im using a chubby 30g wire that stays warm and keeps itself wicked. 28g would be too slow for the 3.3-3.7v snoop pen. Right now im trying to mount a g-pen connector on a new project box so I can vape with a 18650+ sigelie kick lol.

Yeah I was pretty pissed. It stripped really fast so I think I am leaning towards an MVP. Would you recommend getting one straight from ebay? Every time I go to innokins website I don't see a buy option...or a price. It looks like from "official websites" it is around $60 but this "official seller" on ebay is selling them for $40. I could definitely pay $40 for that.

i have rebuilt my kanger coil heads with 3mm ceramic braided wick and it works every bit as good as my igo-w. i have been considering getting an aerotank myself, but right now i am eyeing up one of those Halo caps for my igo-w.

If you were going to rebuild a kanger tank, what gauge wire would you use? 28, correct?

Is this the stuff you used? http://www.rbasupplies.com/READYxWICK.html (don't click the youtube play button, this is a screenshot)
x1zRTwE.png
 
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mystikalghost,

Todai

Well-Known Member
A little update. Almost 2 weeks now with the PG + Aerotank Mini and everything is working great. No leaks, no wicking issues (thanks to the adjustable airflow), very happy with this setup. The best part is now I have a tank I can screw on whenever I want and it's ready to go. At the rate I am using it, I won't need to refill for at least a month or more, and take it wherever I want, anytime I want. Utter convenience.

As a side note, today I did my first RTA build ever. 28ga Kanthal, 10 wraps, on a Russian 91%. Came out to 1.9ohm. Running it on my ZNA at 9 watts (around 4.2v). Using sterile cotton for a wick. Took a few tries to perfect the coil wrapping, but not too bad. Very satisfying vape when you know you built it yourself! And the flavor can't be beat.

Was thinking of trying the PG using Ekowool on a RDA dripper next. Thoughts?
 

Quetzalcoatl

DEADY GUERRERO/DIRT COBAIN/GEORGE KUSH
A little update. Almost 2 weeks now with the PG + Aerotank Mini and everything is working great. No leaks, no wicking issues (thanks to the adjustable airflow), very happy with this setup. The best part is now I have a tank I can screw on whenever I want and it's ready to go. At the rate I am using it, I won't need to refill for at least a month or more, and take it wherever I want, anytime I want. Utter convenience.

As a side note, today I did my first RTA build ever. 28ga Kanthal, 10 wraps, on a Russian 91%. Came out to 1.9ohm. Running it on my ZNA at 9 watts (around 4.2v). Using sterile cotton for a wick. Took a few tries to perfect the coil wrapping, but not too bad. Very satisfying vape when you know you built it yourself! And the flavor can't be beat.

Was thinking of trying the PG using Ekowool on a RDA dripper next. Thoughts?
I've settled on using cotton for wicking, quite easy to manage, makes replacing it a breeze, and it's so cheap a ball lasts me quite a while even changing my wicks daily to every three days max. I just find cotton so much easier to manipulate which is always nice when your hands don't always agree with what you want them to do. I'm not sure how Pure Gold will work with cotton, I know it's a bit thick? My igo-w3 does fine with the ejuice blends (from 100% pg to 100% vg).

Experiment with different wicking materials though!
 

walrus

Well-Known Member
@Quetzalcoatl Cotton works great for regular ecig juice, but the braided ceramic from rba supplies out performs it IMO. I suppose cotton would work ok for pg or liquidized concentrates as long as you let it soak in well before initial use. I doubt it would do anything but burn if used in dabbing coils like this thread was initially about though. I've touted the braided ceramic that @mystikalghost linked above a few times in this thread, and that recommendation still stands. It works excellently in all types of builds on rdas, tank systems, protanks, etc. It's great for ejuice, liquid concentrates, and dabbing. It's a bit pricey but it is very durable and it lasts and lasts. It can be dry burned back to like new over and over again. A short piece can even be taken out entirely and recoiled over and over again. The wick in my Trident right now has been recoiled at least 5 times. I prefer it to cotton, silica, ekowool, ss mesh,etc. I've tried them all and keep coming back to the ceramic Readywick.
 

mystikalghost

Well-Known Member
@Quetzalcoatl Cotton works great for regular ecig juice, but the braided ceramic from rba supplies out performs it IMO. I suppose cotton would work ok for pg or liquidized concentrates as long as you let it soak in well before initial use. I doubt it would do anything but burn if used in dabbing coils like this thread was initially about though. I've touted the braided ceramic that @mystikalghost linked above a few times in this thread, and that recommendation still stands. It works excellently in all types of builds on rdas, tank systems, protanks, etc. It's great for ejuice, liquid concentrates, and dabbing. It's a bit pricey but it is very durable and it lasts and lasts. It can be dry burned back to like new over and over again. A short piece can even be taken out entirely and recoiled over and over again. The wick in my Trident right now has been recoiled at least 5 times. I prefer it to cotton, silica, ekowool, ss mesh,etc. I've tried them all and keep coming back to the ceramic Readywick.

I am probably gonna pull the trigger on this iTaste MVP and extra protank coil heads in my ebay cart and get some of that wick and start experimenting! No point in buying more ego twist knockoffs.
 
mystikalghost,

walrus

Well-Known Member
I am probably gonna pull the trigger on this iTaste MVP and extra protank coil heads in my ebay cart and get some of that wick and start experimenting! No point in buying more ego twist knockoffs.

The MVP is a step up from the twists for sure. A friend has one and it's a nice little unit. Never been a fan of box mods personally but the MVP is smaller than most and fits in the hand nicely. I'd personally go with a vamo, or a SID, or an SVD, or a Sigelei 20w as a vv/vw device but any of them probably cost a bit more especially if you need to buy some 18650s and a charger as well. As far as twist knockoffs go, I prefer Vision Spinners. I have a few and they all work just fine, no threading issues or anything like that and I'm pretty hard on my gear. Nice to have when you need that small ego form factor but want a bit of flexibility over fixed voltage egos.
 

doc

Member
Don't like box mods huh? I dunno what to finish this with, a usb charging circuit, a vamo pcb, or solder in a kick for safety/regulation. The expoxy is drying as we speak :)

This is my almost complete, but still working, one hit-and-quit dab box... made mostly from hand me downs and spare parts.
D3aKm7B.jpg
 
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walrus

Well-Known Member
Don't like box mods huh? I dunno what to finish this with, a usb charging circuit, a vamo pcb, or solder in a kick for safety/regulation. The expoxy is drying as we speak :)

This is my almost complete, but still working, one hit-and-quit dab box... made mostly from hand me downs and spare parts.
D3aKm7B.jpg

Let me clarify. Most if not all box mods I've used are solid as hell performers. They are also great for diy modders. I vape a nicotine :uhoh: Ecig. Carry it in my pocket at work where I'm up and down ladders, in attics and crawl spaces, shit like that all day. A box mod is inconvenient and uncomfortable for me to carry around and use all day. Wouldn't mind one for at home use. In fact I've been kicking around the idea of picking up a DNA 30 box for around the house.
 

2clicker

Observer
If you were going to rebuild a kanger tank, what gauge wire would you use? 28, correct?

Is this the stuff you used? http://www.rbasupplies.com/READYxWICK.html (don't click the youtube play button, this is a screenshot)
x1zRTwE.png

yep thats the stuff. i have recoiled the same small peice of wick a few times now. my current coil is going on 3 weeks and still working great. and i actually like 32ga kanthal over the 28. i like a little more resistence. my ideal coil is at about 2.5ohms for solids. i like 1.5ohms for liquids.
 

mystikalghost

Well-Known Member
yep thats the stuff. i have recoiled the same small peice of wick a few times now. my current coil is going on 3 weeks and still working great. and i actually like 32ga kanthal over the 28. i like a little more resistence. my ideal coil is at about 2.5ohms for solids. i like 1.5ohms for liquids.
Thanks. My MVP is on it's way so I better get some of this stuff and some kanthal! So excited!
 
mystikalghost,
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2clicker

Observer
i just ordered a Halo adjustable airflow cap from CapItAll vapes for my igo-w. excited to replace the plated brass cap for a nice SS cap. and the halo cap can be removed from the igo-w base or the top of it can pop off (leaving the walls of the cap on the base).

check it out here
 
2clicker,

2clicker

Observer
@walrus @2clicker thanks for the tip guys, just ordered some READYxWICK from RBA Supplies to check out. Sounds like good stuff!

my favorite part about this wick is that it allows you to clean it by letting the coil get red hot. basically like if you were trying to burn a silica wick. just lay on the button long enough and the wick goes from dirty brown to clean white. i only do this every so often cuz it taxes my batteries, but i do it to show off the wick. i really like this stuff. i have two wicks im using both about 3/8" long. i dont see these ever wearing out, but maybe they will...? i bought a foot of the stuff and can see it lasting me well over a year.

ready x wick for the W
 

mystikalghost

Well-Known Member
my favorite part about this wick is that it allows you to clean it by letting the coil get red hot. basically like if you were trying to burn a silica wick. just lay on the button long enough and the wick goes from dirty brown to clean white. i only do this every so often cuz it taxes my batteries, but i do it to show off the wick. i really like this stuff. i have two wicks im using both about 3/8" long. i dont see these ever wearing out, but maybe they will...? i bought a foot of the stuff and can see it lasting me well over a year.

ready x wick for the W
Beautiful. I can't wait to try some of this stuff out.
 
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kingtut106

Well-Known Member
I've been a stainless steel mesh user for my wicks, but all this recent talk is making me think about changing it up.

Has anyone used both ss and readywick that can give me a little insight/comparison...
 
kingtut106,

Severmore

Well-Known Member
How does the ReadyXwick compare to the solid FC-2000 ceramic rods? If you were to rebuild a KISS cart, what ceramic wick type would be preferred?

Thanks!!
 
Severmore,
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