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That should be fine. Note that you also need a variable buck\boost circuit so you can adjust power. Cells need to be charged externally unless you also add a charging circuit, a BMS is not a charger. Others have mentioned the issue with high start up currents for Halogen bulbs so you might...

It's a bureaucracy thing. Technically it's not owed and you can probably get it back by chasing through four different gov't departments, filling out forms in triplicate and sacrificing a new born lamb during a new moon.

I thought about offering MV1 battery rebuilding as a service but quickly reconsidered. I'm too crabby to deal politely with that 10% of customers that are off their nut and completely unreasonable. My respects to the vape retailers with the patience for that.

I think they have to actually design it before they can answer questions. It would be great if they give it a PWM power controller so you can go low power for the Vapcap and high for the Anvil. If they are designing a PCB from scratch that's only a few dollars worth of components at most.

It would probably work fine, voltage is voltage. Any decent DC supply with sufficient max current, and without a crazy amount of ripple, would be OK. The controller would just interpret it as fully charged and with a very long battery life (if it even tracks discharge times). I had my MV1...

Good to know, thanks.

Is that what is holding the beads in place? Do you have any pictures of the screen outside the glass and/or as it is ready to be inserted? It doesn't seem very secure, how would you judge the risk of a hot ball disaster?

@bossman , those 0.5 A charging rates are a left over from older generation 18650's for flashlights and laptops with a 5 A or less discharge rate. The high capacity cells we use in vapes can easily handle a 2 or even 4 A charge rate (not that I would charge at 4 A on a regular basis). 1 A is a...

Only if you consider it a "collectors" item and accept that it likely can't be resold for the same amount. For the purposes of getting a functional vape you intend to use, absolutely not. But then I'm not the collecting type...

Just an opinion, but there is no explanation for this I would consider "legit". If payment processors won't touch a business there is a reason.

You seem a little bit lost. Is there some thread we can direct you to? Do you have a question?

You can get to full and instant combustion before max temp, how much hotter you can get from there doesn't matter a whole lot.

Thanks for the info, I must be remembering that incorrectly. Maybe the v3 is a portable that would suit me.

Thanks for the info. I've seen pictures of the iHeat but maybe didn't pay enough attention. I'll give it another look. My problem is that I like to push to the edge but can't handle the heat. I always use my Orbiter globe at home. I haven't tried the V3, my understanding is that it delivers...

I love my Splinter Z but I don't take it out of the house because of the size and fragility. The MV1 is much cooler than the Z, even with a cooling stem. The MV1 is also more pocketable despite its significant weight. I admire the iHeat and Cosmic Extractor but consider them to be equivalent...

I am still waiting for a vape that takes the good aspects of the Ghost MV1 and the Tafee Bowle and delivers it with a simple elegant design and removal battery cells. The MV1 was overengineered with too many moving parts, and too many parts in general. That made it unreliable and a pain to...

The HighLighter and G43 both run under 15 W (I know the voltage settings but don't remember the exact wattage), other low wattage 10 min preheat vapes will be similar.

That's a dilemma, a low wattage log type device will be easiest to wire because of the reasonable current. A higher wattage instant heat device like a Splinter Z wired to a buck converter is probably more energy efficient overall (high current draw but that only lasts for a few tens of seconds)...

Used the MV1 last night since it fell temporarily out of rotation a couple of weeks ago. I can confirm it still works, my "idiot" status remains unchanged. That's good to know because I'm certainly not getting any smarter...

I still use mine fairly regularly, it really excels with a nice twax sandwich. My household bought three, two are still running fine and the other was replaced by Ghost after a spontaneous death, no arguments and no return requested, after two years of use. That replacement is also still going...