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Nobody has given an answer yet. The question is there as I just checked. I also just re-phrased and asked again. The snip below indicates there is high current protection but doesn't give an actual figure. It may be that each cell has protection or very small PCBs between the cells..? Can't see...

There are links for equivalent replacement batteries in my FAQ. :nod:

These batteries look fit for the job but not 100% on what BMS is in it. I've posted the question of max current output before tripping the safety to Amazon, so will wait for them to answer. $36 for 2 each, 2200 mAh batteries, and a charger is not too hard to swallow. Just keep an eye on the...

Now just to add yet another variable about the heating along with all the other many variables. :whoa: Insertion placement, other than depth, also plays a role. Inserting on an angle or as close to the glass tube as possible will also do things. :science: If you look at the diagram below...

There is no need to completely remove the cap. You just snip one leg and bend the un-used leg in a bit so it's out of the way. That's it, you're done. Just leave enough leg left so it can be bent over and soldered to the adjacent leg again to reverse the mod if need be. Easy to mod, a tad bit...

Yes, this is definitely an option. :nod: I too have experimented with just one cap and removal will drop the heating current by about 1.5 amps or 30%. This translates into a longer wait time. Mod approved. :tup: This is very simple to do as you just need to cut one lead to one of the legs of...

Maybe... Be sure you get the JST polarity correct when re-installing. What is the charger showing when on charge? Does the LED go red at all?

There are links to some in my FAQ. I wouldn't be so fast to assume it's the battery. You haven't provided symptoms as to what's happening with the charger indicator etc. In general, the chargers are more prone to go bad rather than the batteries. Batteries usually degrade more slowly. :science:

You have actually hit a common problem. Even the supplies I provide have this problem with a small percentage. It seems these high rated power supplies aren't all set properly as to the current cut-off level. Even though they are rated for 8 amps, some go into protection too easily. We are only...

You will have the 1/2 sphere pearl type heat shield. It would seem some caps seem to dent easier than others as only a few have this problem. Could also be the asserted pressure although this is hard to confirm. The solution is to cut a 12mm circle from a silicone oven glove. Use the thinner...

I think you are referring to the extra heatshield/cushion/spacer package I've started including. Those are for the tube of the driver. Used for spare or spacer options. :nod:

Physical size is important or you won't be able to fit it in the enclosure. Just keep an eye on HobbyKing as their stock comes and goes regularly. Maybe contact them to get an idea when they are going to have stock. :nod:

Hi there and welcome to the club. 1/ I can't say if this is good or bad depending on how you got your unit put together. Since you are on the move and should be avoiding distractions, safety is a big concern. These devices are pulling a lot of power and if something does go south, having it...

I place the provided spacer such that it ends up about 1.5 mm past the start of the coil. This is about as low as you should go without heating too high up and heating the cooling fins. The pictures near the end of this post will give you the idea...

To focus the heat lower towards the cap end, you would need to lower the coil or raise the cap. Easier to add a spacer on the switch.

You should preferably keep it from touching. The enamel by itself will wear exposing the copper and create a short to the enclosure. All will still be fine as long as nothing else in the enclosure touches it but not the safest way to run it. Most folks want to go the other way and add a spacer...

Here you go. Cut close to the board so the lead can be bent and re-soldered to the leg beside it if needed. Also, put some tape on the exposes leg so it does touch the other leg.

Man, that was so long ago. I believe they worked fine but didn't feel as efficient as the single wind and the 9-11 loops seemed to be to also hit the efficiency target the best. The conclusion was to keep the original loop count but to narrow the diameter a couple of mils. However, I never...

The pads I've posted are different depending on what the use is for. The latest pad is not really for direct contact with the cap but for the friction aspect. It is LOW-density and thinner than the HIGH-density heat shield one. It also has a self-adhesive side to stick to the underside of the...

That's the Rhinestone vintage. Yes, a pad should work fine. Expect some heat speed change as well. :science: