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I've got to say the answer is unknown. They blacken up fairly quickly but this is a curing process that actually makes the wood harder. Our ancestors would harden their spearheads using this technique. :nod: It would also depend on usage etc. I'd think it would get thinner over time but would...

Sounds about right to me. Usually around 1 1/2 weeks. :nod: Although, it can be quicker sometimes.

Starting from tomorrow on, I'm supplying the charger for the extra $5. Just received my shipment and have been testing today. So far no problems. Going to do a couple more tests with different cords and battery levels to make sure. I've updated the FAQ to reflect the change. :nod: This is...

You will not quick-charge at the 12-volt side or output of the converter as it cuts out around 2 amps on the input. The actual battery will be getting under 5/12.6th of the input current. As long as the converter is maxed out at 2 amps the charge will be around 700-800 mA. This is a very healthy...

Is that with it charged? It looks like you trying to get it going while it's dead.? Please PM if having issues. In your case, I highly suspect the charging is the culprit.

It sounds like the wooden heatshield, rubber friction pad got flipped. The wood side should be on top and the offset friction pad stuck to and underneath the wood heatshield. :nod: The orange high-temperature-resistant rubber can withstand a fair temp but not high enough to use as the shield...

There have been a few folks having a hard time and getting confused getting chargers to work. I've decided to offer a home and/or car charger as optional accessories. I have just ordered an inventory of 5V 3 Amp units for both home and car which I should be getting in a couple of weeks. :tup...

That will only tell you it's charging, not the level. There is no way to measure the level via the USB port. In practical use, one gets to know when one needs to top up the charge. I found the gauge caused more confusion and questions than it was worth. :uhh: I think I know how I'm going to...

Epoxy is the best solution. JB-Quickweld or similar should work fine. Mix up a small amount and put a very amall pea-size dab into the hole and then push in the magnet.

This would be correct for most charging schemes but in this case, it starves the DC-DC converter and it stops outputting almost altogether. I had this confirmed by one of my testers. It may eventually charge but with a low battery, it would take a very long time. The DC-DC converter maxes out at...

I believe most new vehicles have quick charge USB outlets but can't say for sure they "all" have quick charge. The cigarette light types are generally labeled 1 or 2 amp. :science:

That glue will be fine. A little dab will do ya.

Epoxy is the best solution. JB-Quickweld or similar should work fine. Mix up a small amount and put a very small pea-sized dab into the hole and then push in the magnet. There is a little spacer that should be attached to the magnet, leave in place to prevent the magnet from setting too low...

:borg: I know, it sounds so complicated. :mental: Like WTF is this asshole saying. :uhh: Trust me though, it will become very clear once you have the unit in hand. I've been going to put together a video or pictorial but never find the time. :buzz: The list has moved along very nicely. If...

Here are some instructions on disassembly as there are a couple of "tricks" one needs to know. Opening the bottom lid: "Close the upper lid!!!" You need to open the same as the upper door and on the same side. Except it's not spring-loaded so you may need to apply some upward force with your...

You are correct that this is highly possible. If dropped with the lid open, the lid will break in a heartbeat. You will end up with a lidless HS. This will not affect the functionality at all and the remaining hinge pin can be removed to help with the cosmetic look. Unfortunately, there are no...

Found a little bit of new info from @despeRAWdo. The new dual-voltage type chargers do not work. His was a Samsung 5/9 volts dual that did not do anything. :science:

That is correct. The spacer goes in first as you did.

The rubber one is a friction pad which purpose is to hold the wooden heatshield in place. It goes under the heatshield. The wooden disc is the heatshield but doubles as a spacer. To use as a spacer, it goes under the heatshield and friction pad. The friction pad is stuck to the underside of the...

I have not found any locally. :\