TinyMight / TM 2

Vaporific

All who wander are not lost...
Interesting! I hadn’t realized there were two different small oring sizes for the cooling unit. My TM accessories arrived today including oring kit (and WPA) and haven’t opened it yet. :peace:
 

Bad Dog

Yeah I pissed on the rug...... so what
welcome to the club
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indicandescent

Dismembered Member
I bought 3 o ring kits with my order and use the wpa 95% of the time :rofl: I'm still on my original o rings:lol:.
Lucky! I had one of my CU o's give up the very first time I took them off in order to clean my CU. I don't know if I got a particularly frail one but I'm worried that I'll be going through them quickly. I did order the replacement kit, so it has already come in handy. If one were to need more rings, is buying from TM directly the best bet? Anybody have aftermarket rings they vouch for that I can buy stateside if need be?

Also, how often do folks change their batteries? I feel like I have to change mine pretty often, but maybe I've just been indulging too hard!
 
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Bad Dog

Yeah I pissed on the rug...... so what
If one were to need more rings, is buying from TM directly the best bet? Anybody have aftermarket rings they vouch for that I can buy stateside if need be?
tm is probably your best bet, I remember several people trying eBay rings and the fit was never good as far as I can remember. the o ring kit should last for some time if you don't iso soak them and don't srtech them to much getting the off. the tm o rings are pretty high quality.

maybe someone who actually had luck with third party o rings will reply but I'm doubtful
 

Vaporific

All who wander are not lost...
maybe someone who actually had luck with third party o rings will reply but I'm doubtful
I bought two batches of third party orings and they’re hit and miss. Then again, as many know, there are glass variances too which complicates things. My two stock short stems vary a bit in both outside and inside diameter so finding replacement orings for the CU is always trial and error - some fit and many do not. Also, the 3rd party ones were from China (via eBay if I recall). The real test will be the replacement oring pack from TM I just got yesterday. I’ll post an update on those when I try them out. Stay tuned for more on As The Oring Turns… :peace:
 

WisePenny

unknown. unmember.
My o-ring kit (from Mar '20) can with clear o-rings, and I'd have to check, but I am fairly sure they are all the same(ish) size - not clearly different like those red ones.
 
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Jimmer144

Sargeant REG
Has anybody sent their TM in for repairs? If so, how long did it take to get back to the US? My unit hasn't worked correctly since late summer, ive had the postage labels printed for a while, and i finally sent it out today for RMA. I am anxiously awaiting it's return to see the TM at its highest potential.
 
Jimmer144,

fogbank

Well-Known Member
Has anybody sent their TM in for repairs? If so, how long did it take to get back to the US? My unit hasn't worked correctly since late summer, ive had the postage labels printed for a while, and i finally sent it out today for RMA. I am anxiously awaiting it's return to see the TM at its highest potential.
I received a shipping label to return my first TM on 4/6. I don't recall the exact date that I shipped it, but I got a shipping notice for my replacement unit from TinyMight on 4/22. I consider that a pretty quick turnaround considering I am in USA/California and TinyMight is in Finland.
 
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Shit Snacks

Milaana. Lana. LANA. LANAAAA! (TM2/TP80/BAK/FW9)
Has anybody sent their TM in for repairs? If so, how long did it take to get back to the US? My unit hasn't worked correctly since late summer, ive had the postage labels printed for a while, and i finally sent it out today for RMA. I am anxiously awaiting it's return to see the TM at its highest potential.

I would follow up with them by email, simply concise plain English, to tell them you just sent it back now, if it has been sitting for months without you doing so after they sent you the label... Good luck!
 
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Seantagon

Well-Known Member
Confession time: although I ordered replacement o-rings of all sizes, I've never used any of them. When I soak my CU in ISO, I leave the rings on. Haven't had one break yet.
How long are you soaking them for? First time I cleaned them I noticed it moves around much more freely in the tube. Like when I brush out a bowl, it moves the CU back. I had it in the iso for almost 30min.
 
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Kaptan

Well-Known Member
How long are you soaking them for? First time I cleaned them I noticed it moves around much more freely in the tube. Like when I brush out a bowl, it moves the CU back. I had it in the iso for almost 30min.
I can add my 2cents here as I follow the same practice with just leaving the o-rings on when cleaning in ISO. I use warm ISO when soaking so it doesn’t require a very long soak to remove all the built up resin. I generally will only leave them submerged for 5-10 minutes at the most. I’ve had my unit for over 18 months now and this has been my cleaning method since with no noticeable degradation in my o-rings.
 

Vaporific

All who wander are not lost...
There are different percentages of ISO too. Locally I can get 70% or 91% which may impact the wear on the orings depending on which you use and for how long you soak orings. Regardless the soak length time SHOULDN’T be too long unless they’re really gunked up. I remove my orings when cleaning my CUs and soak everything together in a small glass covered cleaning vial. It might not be necessary to always remove the orings but I typically do. I’ve replaced mine a few times (broken). Looking forward to seeing how the TM replacement orings work which I received this week. TGIF. :peace:
 
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Siebter

Less soul, more mind
I use 99.9% iso, maybe that's why I'm more careful and clean the o rings only with some soapy cleaning agent. I also like to soak the cooling unit for at least 20 minutes (I'm sure 10 would be enough, but I want to be thorough). From what I remember the red o rings used nowadays are more resilient than the vintage clear ones.
 

kilo

Well-Known Member
I use 99.9% iso, maybe that's why I'm more careful and clean the o rings only with some soapy cleaning agent. (...)
Since the o-rings fit snugly against the tube, the only contact they have with vapor is the resinous condensate that they wipe off the side of the tube when the CU is removed. Because I use 99.9% iso for soaking the CU, I slip them off and clean them in soapy water as well.
 

Cheebsy

Microbe minion
I have probably only removed my o rings for cleaning 5 times in the 18 months I've had the device. I use 99% and an ultrasonic so it doesn't usually take long, but I have let it sit overnight a few times. The worst I've seen is the o rings are larger and slightly misshaped when they come out of the iso. After a rince and dry they've always returned to normal. I've broken 2 o rings in that time, mostly due to my stupidity lol.
 

SouthernBear84

Active Member
I also use an ultrasonic. I use small 2" X 3" zipper bags of 1/2 hot water 1/2 Dawn Platinum mixed, or zipper sandwich bags of the same mix in hot water in a small ultrasonic like for glasses for 2 to 3 five minute cycles. No replacement o-rings needed in a year or so.
 
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mistergyro

Well-Known Member
so i'm starting to notice clearly less vapor even at higher temps. i've had mine for probably 18 months or so. should I try to replace the battery or is the heater just wearing out? any suggestions before i send back for repairs?
 
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Siebter

Less soul, more mind
i've had mine for probably 18 months or so. should I try to replace the battery or is the heater just wearing out?

I would indeed think about investing in fresh cells, but note there's also this pretty simple solution suggested by the company:

Actually first, here's just a perfect snippet quote from the email of what should be stickied in my opinion:
[...]
"The exception is when after longer time using the vape, the user feels that the heat levels start to be lower than before at a similar setting. It might be then a situation of problem with the electrical contacts inside the vape. This is 90% of time fixed easily by opening the big back end screw with a Torx T20 screwdriver, just a bit, like 1-2 mm to get the end panels move little bit and wiggle them around as much as they move for some time and then retighten the screw tightly and well. This will return the original power levels without any need to touch the calibration setting."

Give it a try.
 

mistergyro

Well-Known Member
I would indeed think about investing in fresh cells, but note there's also this pretty simple solution suggested by the company:



Give it a try.
thank you for this tip.
Has this worked for anyone?
 
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