BabyFacedFinster

Anything worth doing, is worth overdoing.
Curious question not owning a coil. We use to just flare off contaminants with a good torch. Would that work for the Dynacoil? Just glow it red hot and blow the white ash off?

I never tried this. I didn't know if there were negative effects to the Ti coil or if it would be difficult to get all the ash and such out. You got a lot of nooks and crannies there with that frilled metal overlapping itself.
 

TommyDee

Vaporitor
A flame will anneal a metal. I suppose that should be asked. Stainless would be no problem. I don't even know if Ti takes a temper or if they use an alloy. However, great observation and I think I can get this one answered. I will report back but it may take a few days.

It is an inert ash at that point. It will meld with new oils. It has no taste. Wouldn't want to inhale it as just dust. I think it is soda-lime that does a quick cleaning of ash. Not a chemist but a simple alkaline soak will remove the acid-based ash and neutralizer will make sure all is good.
 

notams

toke down Babylon
I'm loving this discussion.

Great info. I was gunshy to use ISO based on videos from DV. They avoid saying "ISO" as fastidiously as they avoid puffing.

The instructions DV gives for cleaning their devices is... well... crap. I'm not knocking DV only. Every vape manufacturer says, "easy to clean". However, DV specifically stating in their FAQs "do not use alcohol" led me to ponder what exactly they mean by "cleaning solution".

In my mind "cleaning solution" is dish soap. Well, that sucks. I did the stem milk routine. Nice. Fun. But, ultimately a pita. Then I used everclear. I used the same jar of everclear til it turned honey colored. I thought it would make a decent cocktail. Wrong. Tastes exactly like you'd expect. Exactly like ass.

Asking a real user, "what works for you?" led me to good ol' fashioned, cheap ISO. So, I bought a Dynacoil and looked to DV for cleaning instructions. Well...

I'd rather they just say, "how to clean? Well, good luck! Look, this this thing is a hunk of metal that you're going to melt the stickiest, ickiest things in the world onto over and over again. Seriously, good luck. But, hey... It's cheap and you'll figure out an acceptable level of 'clean' eventually, just like every other thing in your weed paraphernalia box."
 

Jill NYC

Portable Hoarder
DV specifically stating in their FAQs "do not use alcohol"
DV says this because VC’s are made to be used with a torch. Since alcohol is flammable, they cannot advise using it to clean.
However, as long as you rinse off the ISO well before using, it should not hurt the VC or accessories (the o-rings should not be soaked for a long amount of time, or they could get damaged).
 

TommyDee

Vaporitor
I found out why ISO is a bad idea but it has nothing to do with flame. It has to do with vaping alcohol. Methylated alcohol, to be clear. Alcohol does remain under the clicker if that is what you happened to clean. Even with an intent of only removing soot from the outside of the cap, it takes only a tear-drop to run under the clicker. That first draw will suck to high heaven if that ISO in now part of the vape when heated. This is my theory and I've been caught doing this only once. It won't happened again :disgust: Now I know to bake right after cleaning. And replacing ISO w/ EverClear - safer all around. Just spendy.

As easy as VC's are to clean, how can any other device be easier? Pound for pound run through the VC is going to be easier to maintain than a lot of "easy clean" vapes which would probably have been replaced several times over the course of the experiment. What we need is a "Lab" :science: We need the right acid or even the ability to clean and passivate the entire VC's metal parts. Acid wash and neutralizer rinse to make a VC brand new. Now you can start fouling and oxiding the VC as per usual once again. There is also an electro-polish option that will clean up all those minute machine marks that trap these contaminants. Comes back mirror shiny after the process and it becomes much easier to clean.
 

notams

toke down Babylon
Overall, I think Vapcaps are the easiest devices to clean. 2 minutes every 30-35 bowls. Yeah, dont get no easier.

It's the Dynacoil that irritates me. But, still much easier than some of my box mod tanks. Once I figured out iso alcohol is fine and the CCD can stay in it got way easier. Just soak, rinse really well then do a dry heat cycle - viola! - easy peezy. Well... as easy as my tolerance for reclaim / leftover ass taste.

@TommyDee I never have submerged my cap in alcohol. I suppose soaking or submerging it would present issues with vaporizing the alcohol. The issue (vaping iso) may be avoided entirely by not using any on the cap? When is cap cleaning even needed? I don't think I've ever seen the need other than wiping down the outside or a moist q-tip quickly inside.

I've heard somewhere about soaking the o-rings could cause some iso to 'get into' the material and present issues when heated. I think this was related to the belief the o-rings are silicon are porous. DV o-rings are rubber, right? Non-porous?

What do you think, TommyDee, is there any credible concern over o-rings soaking in iso? And by soak I mean 5-10 minutes. Removing the condenser rings is easy. O-rings on the tip... eh... that could get hairy removing /replacing those every time. Those are the ones I'd like to soak for a few minutes.
 

RustyOldNail

SEARCH for the treasure...
I don’t own a Dynacoil, as I keep my oil & herb devices separate. I have yet to do an ISO soak on any of my DV products. After a bunch of bowls, or when I bored, I clean both the tip and Simrell Titanium Vortex stem with LIGHTY dampened Qtips. One empty bowl heat cycle in the IH, and I’m good to go.
 

TommyDee

Vaporitor
@notams - I didn't mean soak the cap; I meant accidental seepage of a tiny bit of ISO under the clicker while wiping with a q-tip.

I have a feeling DV is rather sensitive to liability if something happened along those lines on a regular basis. Speculation, I admit fully, but could this be why DV never recommends or mentions ISO in cleaning instgructions? Alcohol in the vape sucks. That I do know... and it don't take but a wisp.

O-rings, yes, they absorb tiny doses of alcohol that quickly remove themselves with elevated temperatures.. Yes, alcohol stays in behind the o-ring and is subject to the vape path periphery from the top o-ring, yet pressure from expanding gas due to heat could get past that first o-ring. If enough alcohol is trapped, a single cycle is insufficient. Good news is, you'll probably know you fucked up too. This is a severe case of putting the thing together wet and expect the IH to dry it, or worse, the torch! Remember, the o-ring with trapped alcohol is on the -far side- of the hot shit. Much slower evacuation. Dip the tip in the IH after a good alcohol soak with o-rings and wait for it to cool on it's own. No stem! I let the o-rings breath while bake-drying.

And of course a tip only takes minutes to clean. I mean restore or improve to factory condition, brightness and all. You know annual event, quarterly... whatever.

I don't know what vaping ISO does. I suspect George does. I'll take his advise with a little alcohol and noted caution.
 
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NYC_Frank

"A man with no vices is a man with no virtues"
One year anniversary of my taking the torch to my Andy Capp "Louisiana Lightning" ... celebrating the 42nd Anniversary of Ron Guidry's 18 strikeout performance with it right now :myday: :spliff:

EDIT: Just realized I'm a day early ... will have to celebrate all over again tomorrow night :cool:

LATE FINAL EDIT ... sorry ... guess I'm really baked as it is the anniversary after all ... maybe I'll take tomorrow night off and rest up for Friday
 
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Siebter

Less soul, more mind
Methylated alcohol, to be clear.

We should make sure to never use methylated alcohol, it means alcohol (actually mostly ethanol, at least here in Germany) that has added components to avoid it being swallowed – nasty stuff. Anyway, I keep iso away from the cap, because it's a little more fragile than the rest of the device and might stain when soaked in aggressive solutions. I've had some cases where I had to swab the cap with a q tip and some iso, which was okay, but prolonged exposure to iso is not recommended.

Isopropyl alcohol evaporates quickly at room temp, so there shouldn't be any left of it when the parts are being rinsed and dried thoroughly.

My favourite pro tip for cleaning: the tip gets darker with each use and this residue is even stronger than iso. Using an electric toothbrush and some random toothpaste will make it shiny again (~5 minutes brushing should do it).
 

RustyOldNail

SEARCH for the treasure...
One year anniversary of my taking the torch to my Andy Capp "Louisiana Lightning" ... celebrating the 42nd Anniversary of Ron Guidry's 18 strikeout performance with it right now :myday: :spliff:

EDIT: Just realized I'm a day early ... will have to celebrate all over again tomorrow night :cool:

Geez, you brought me back. I was lucky enough to be in Yankee Stadium that day. Best game I’ve ever attended, also considered the beginning of the “rythmik clap”, every time he had two strikes on a hitter, everyone standing, and the clapping. Sorry, time travelled back 42 years.......
 

Ganjora

Well-Known Member
While checking the dynavap out prior to purchase I watched nearly every video on YouTube.
I am 99% certain that in one of the earlier videos either George or Josh talk about iso and salt.
I recently deep cleaned my M, after specifically searching for and finding the video, in iso alcohol.
I cannot remember if they specifically mention keeping the iso away from the cap.
I did not clean the cap, so that was irrelevant to me.
 

BabyFacedFinster

Anything worth doing, is worth overdoing.

NexVision

Well-Known Member
While checking the dynavap out prior to purchase I watched nearly every video on YouTube.
I am 99% certain that in one of the earlier videos either George or Josh talk about iso and salt.
I recently deep cleaned my M, after specifically searching for and finding the video, in iso alcohol.
I cannot remember if they specifically mention keeping the iso away from the cap.
I did not clean the cap, so that was irrelevant to me.
Dont submerge the inside of the cap and your fine, wipe with iso using qtip on inside.
 
What is everyone's favorite stem for cooling? I'm talking dry hits. After using the Glass Charlie stem with my Woodscents and Vapcap, some sort of cooling mechanism now feels like a requirement to me. Guess I've been spoiled.

The Glass Charlie XL stem is nice with the Vapcap, but I'd also like something that isn't made entirely from glass. Any artisan stems with cooling functionality? I've thought about the Simrell Vortex for sure.
 

NYC_Frank

"A man with no vices is a man with no virtues"
Geez, you brought me back. I was lucky enough to be in Yankee Stadium that day. Best game I’ve ever attended, also considered the beginning of the “rythmik clap”, every time he had two strikes on a hitter, everyone standing, and the clapping. Sorry, time travelled back 42 years.......
@BabyFacedFinster ... Holy Cow !!!

⚾:spliff:
 

JJ785

Well-Known Member
My favourite pro tip for cleaning: the tip gets darker with each use and this residue is even stronger than iso. Using an electric toothbrush and some random toothpaste will make it shiny again (~5 minutes brushing should do it).


Regarding cleaning the tip, I recently found that a pinch of Puly Cafe powder in hot water brought it back to sparkling new again. Maybe something to be used once in a while though. It's widely available here in the UK/EU but also on amazon US:

 
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GoldenBud

Well-Known Member
What is everyone's favorite stem for cooling? I'm talking dry hits. After using the Glass Charlie stem with my Woodscents and Vapcap, some sort of cooling mechanism now feels like a requirement to me. Guess I've been spoiled.

The Glass Charlie XL stem is nice with the Vapcap, but I'd also like something that isn't made entirely from glass. Any artisan stems with cooling functionality? I've thought about the Simrell Vortex for sure.
try this .. with the glass/amaze addon.

it supposed to cools high temp dry hits from tubo but accept dyna tip too, so if it can help with high temps (220C+) from tubo i guess it'll be a great option for dyna (220C max)
not sure it can compete simrell for 100% but way cheaper too hehe
 
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