JoeMama
Well-Known Member
I wanna know what it is!!!It sounds like a relay, but it can't be that as it's not consistent.
I wanna know what it is!!!It sounds like a relay, but it can't be that as it's not consistent.
Good to know there are some GH users who haven't had any issues yet. Also good to know that there are external battery chargers that can accept non-standard size rechargeables... I guess I assumed that because the GH battery is a unique shape/size, that it wouldn't fit 3rd party chargers. Looks like I need to look into this Nitecore charger thing...
If you do go Nitecore don't get the D4. It is outdated. The new version is the UM20.
Even when the led's go red to blue and the hopper is 'ready', the description of "at temperature" is not a static state, it is, I believe almost continuously monitored and cycled on/off very frequently depending on draw, etc., but meanwhile, the light stays blue rather than flashing. And the clicking does seem to continue. I've noticed it louder and softer at different times. Wife and I have both noticed that, as you draw, if you touch hopper to a front tooth, it really amplifies the click...in your head!Hey Ratch...
But how come it's constant now, even when it is at temperature? It didn't used to do this before, and my other Ti of the same "age" doesn't do this.
To fix back end heat, have you tried the twisting of the temp gauge back and forth (without the battery in the hopper)? That fix helped my backend heating issues.Even when the led's go red to blue and the hopper is 'ready', the description of "at temperature" is not a static state, it is, I believe almost continuously monitored and cycled on/off very frequently depending on draw, etc., but meanwhile, the light stays blue rather than flashing. And the clicking does seem to continue. I've noticed it louder and softer at different times. Wife and I have both noticed that, as you draw, if you touch hopper to a front tooth, it really amplifies the click...in your head!
I've also had it happen that my Ti stopped developing heat, though the clicking was still happening, albeit slower than usual. New body fixed the heating trouble.
On the back end heat topic, I have not had improved back end heat from cleaning threads. The SS I have has had hot back end for a while now, I just haven't made much issue of it, and I don't notice any different performance from a Ti, which gets hot only when the hopper's on for a minute or two. Threads do get clean and smooth with Stik Tac, and though I've not gone to the Deoxit route, I really don't think there's a conductivity problem, it's something else. The Ti seems now working well after two new bodies, so maybe I have confidence to take up the hot SS backend with HL. Just been giving them some time too, maybe for improved design or whatever.
Hey Ratch...
But how come it's constant now, even when it is at temperature? It didn't used to do this before, and my other Ti of the same "age" doesn't do this.
The audible sound is most likely energy pulses, however it's not via the heater. I have experienced loud ticking when one of my heaters wasn't working, I'd get blue lights immediately, no heat and loud ticking sounds.
The ticking noise we're referring to is not from the back end, it's coming from the body, somewhere near the heater. We're all kinda wondering just exactly what it is. HL only says, yup, that's normal.Hi guys - my GH back end has never made a sound except the clicking of turning it on/off.
No ticking of any sort and absolutely no back end heat. So, although they now may be saying that this is normal behavior I have a hard time swallowing it.
Perhaps its benign in most cases but I have trouble seeing how this is nominal behavior as there are many out there that don't tick.
Cheers
Thank you.To fix back end heat, have you tried the twisting of the temp gauge back and forth (without the battery in the hopper)? That fix helped my backend heating issues.
You probably did, but I thought I'd double check...
The ticking noise we're referring to is not from the back end, it's coming from the body, somewhere near the heater. We're all kinda wondering just exactly what it is. HL only says, yup, that's normal.
Fair enough.Well, I have never had that either!
Wife and I have both noticed that, as you draw, if you touch hopper to a front tooth, it really amplifies the click...in your head!
Yep, that was me about 4 months ago too, I asked Caroline and she said "it is normal".If memory serves me correctly, I seem to recall someone actually emailing HL about this about a year ago and their response was something to the effect of "the ticking sound is normal"
So OK, I will not regard clicking (or not clicking) as a measure of hopper health. I remain curious though, what the "source" of the clicking is.
Time bomb, maybe? But who knows what's left on the clock...
Oh, so now you're putting words in my mouth!That's weird. Don't know how I ended up in the quote. And I was looking for a burning fuse emoticon.
I was a little nervous, they asked me to send in the original charger and I had never used it. I had this irrational fear that they would test the charger, find it defective, and simply replace it without testing the hopper itself. I know it sounds crazy, but I can worry too much sometimes. I guess it's good to know the charger actually works!
Yep, that was me about 4 months ago too, I asked Caroline and she said "it is normal".
So OK, I will not regard clicking (or not clicking) as a measure of hopper health. I remain curious though, what the "source" of the clicking is. Certainly it is in the body, not the backend , and certainly it is at the heater location (what else is there in there!). I get that it is - as @vapviking states - a continuous operation to keep the heater at temp. I'd love to know what that heater looks like.
Somebody cut open one of your hoppers and get back to me, will ya?
Add me to the list...
Just filled out my first warranty request after a month and a half of TI ownership.
Solid blue lights almost immediately after turning on with no heat.
My pocket just got bulkier with the Crafty. No skinny jeans for me.
Capacitors and inductors can generate acoustic noise under certain circumstances, so this would be a likely cause. I think the ticking corresponds to the approx. 10 Hz communication rate between the back end and the heater body. I've done some non-invasive analysis of these signals and suspect that the back end communicates by interrupting the battery supply to the header body periodically. Either a capacitor or inductor in the heater body could be used to provide energy storage for the heater body microcontroller during these periods.
I hate that you can't edit after a while... Damn you Autocorrect!!!Abrams it