Discussion in 'DIY' started by Pipes, Nov 23, 2016.
Yep, I have to say the PS Mini has opened up whole new horizons for my appreciation of the VC!
without my PS Mini, my Vapcaps were a pain in the ass where I wanted to love them/ expected to love them/ anticipated I'd love them but torching the VCs never worked out at all.
The PS mini is bringin' on the VC love!
Agreed. The PS mini is a game changer. Have not used a torch since I got it. Creates a more laid back experience. Perfect for the porch.
These? With batteries, capacitor, induction coil + PCB.. the smaller ones are too tight inside, bigger ones.. too big?(but would work). something exactly between 1455C801 and 1455K1201 would be perfect but the ones inbetween don't work specially with that internal screw mounting rail. 100x60x30 internal would be about right to "SQUEEZE" something into probably not with 18650's though.. but sure,
Those are the guys @rz! Though it was more the classic guitar pedal type of enclosure i had in mind, one of the bigger ones as opposed to the classic small single pedal type.
Also, was planning to go with mains power rather than batteries, it could even run on the same power supply as the rest of my pedal board!
My new PS Mini is on the way to my house as we speak. I noticed there are two different versions. I am wondering which is the final version that I will be getting.
Can't see your pictures but there is only one version that were actually sold. The very first unit, which is shown in my signature and @phattpiggie now has, had the battery gauge and switch on the side. All other units has everything moved to the top. This will be your case as well.
Just hit reply to post & pics will show up in the reply post window.
Awesome thanks @Pipes for the quick reply!
An image fix for Chrome & Firefox fix:
Added to firefox & works perfectly.
Hello all, can anyone tell me if this kind of battery would be good enough to power one of the standard induction coils that everyone seems to be using for there vapcaps?
or would I be better off using something like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/11-1V-42...124954?hash=item2f1a71beda:g:uGAAAOSw9sZa3sUb
I am not sure how to wire the battery into the loop and which battery would be easier to do it with, the first one looks like it might work very easy, but I was concerned when it only says 1-2.4amp output.
Ummm.....any thoughts, recommendations greatly appreciated people.......... Thankin yiz
@FryMeALiver The first battery pack would probably be capable, though it's hard to tell if it will work or not (by design).
Firstly, the battery is rather large, has the stated capacity to run an IH for many many sessions, and is lithium ion, so is probably capable of delivering the sporadic ~7A necessary. This pack comes with built in protection (With short circuit, overload, over-charge protection.), however: "Output current:1-2.4A". This is probably a very conservative rating for that sized pack, and may be a hard-limit imposed by the battery protection. One way you will know how it handles 7A pulses is by experimenting, and/or revere engineering the protection circuit.
The second pack is certainly capable of delivering the juice. 30C from a 4200mAH pack is over 100 amps. This cell pack will do the job, but DOES NOT COME WITH PROTECTION CIRCUIT!!! DO NOT SHORT CIRCUIT THIS THING!! Personally, I'd select this pack and find a suitable (~10A) protection circuit. One with built in balance circuitry will help keep this thing healthy and your house standing. I'm sure there's been relevant "BMS" discussion and links in this thread. Looking through every post with that keyword would be a good start.
CORRECTION: The second pack is a 2S 11.1V pack (this doesnt make sense, its eithee 2S 7.4 or 3S 11.1). If 2S, Your voltage would approach 5~6 volts near the end of it's capacity and under load, which will probably not be enough to push the IH gates properly. If you boost the gate-driving voltage to 10~15 volts, and tune your coil/capacitor to deliver enough power even when the voltage is around 6 volts, it'll work, but is not likely worth your bother if you can find a suitable 3S pack. If it's 3S, stay away anyway, since they can't get their specs right
Good luck and keep us updated!
P.S A 3S 1000maH 10~20C pack would be sufficient for a good few full caps.. maybe 10~15 loads depending on usage.
First one is 2.4A only, probably won't cut it. Plus it looks like random Chinese crap that would puff in no time.
RC hobby li-po's could work but again, don't buy from ebay. Get them from hobbyking instead, they have EU and US warehouses. The Rhino brand they carry is quite good (it's the high end brand from Zippy, which are otherwise rather average) The Turnigy Nanotech stuff is a bit hit and miss, didn't have much luck with them. Other Turnigy packs are even worse from experience.
There are higher end packs but this particular application does not justify the higher price tag.
Cheers for the reply rz........appreciated. So based on what you said I should go for something like option number 2 and get maybe something like this to go along with it??
or is this better?
Basically the li-po batteries dont come with on board protedtion??
Thanks KeroZen....... N1! So you are recommending this maybe?
Or would I be better with one of two of these, as per cost/value to me?
I'm not in rush or anything, I want to get this right. I have some snaps of what I have so far that I will post shortly.......... Cheers again
@FryMeALiver See my revised answer. You should rather pick a 3S cell pack, and @KeroZen has some good suggestions as to which. Either of the two protection boards you linked to above should do. If you have the space, take the one with cell balancing as this will have a good return on investment in your batteries longevity.
P.S The Rhino 2250mAh 3S 11.1v 25C Lipoly Pack you posted above looks suitable. The 6S is not recommended at this stage of your build (It would require tuning your IH coil and capacitor, and likely also upgrading the MOSFETs on it, unless you don't mind a 1 second to click, 1.1 second to full on combustion).
Cheers again rz............based on what ye have both said, I am going to go with a combination of this: https://hobbyking.com/en_us/zippy-compact-2200mah-3s-25c-lipo-pack.html?wrh_pdp=7 (as the 2250 is out of stock)
.....and this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3S-11-1V...467145?hash=item25daf7dd89:g:wPwAAOSwgu9ZZQU-
I am not in a huge hurry to purchase, going to wait 24 hours in case there' s some other problem I or someone else can spot. I am getting a few photos organised to post here before the evening is out......
Cheers guys, this a huge help to me!
My snaps of my finished/unfinished induction heater. Finish coz it works, unfinished coz I want to add the battery!
EDIT: any questions, fire away!
So further to this, I intend to install the battery pack in the obvious large space towards the front of the box, which measure 135mm x 45mm x 25mm, which should be perfect for the battery I have listed above. I also have enough room on the underside of the lid to install the protection circuit (maybe some hot-glue here?).
Anyway, I am going to purchase the parts for battery workings tomorrow, then figure out how to wire it properly...... How hard can it be after what I have already got finished??
So what do I do if my Portside heater suddenly doesn't charge anymore?? No matter whether the thing is off or on, it won't charge when i plug it in
You need to shoot me a PM describing the problem. Will want to know more details like is the led working on charger? Green when not charging and red when plugged into the unit which needs charging. Also, was the unit working right up to needing a charge? And battery level information on the gauge. Both while sitting idle and while a VC is inserted. And likely a whack more questions in the troubleshooting process.
Those power adapters die faster than I can buy new ones in China... Already 4 broken ones here, sometimes they already died on the second day.
Admittedly, the chargers are very cheap and do have a high failure rate. From my experience, about 5+% failures, but generally happens within the first day or two, after that, should be good for a long time.
Wow, 4 down now you say... now that is a case of really bad luck. Did you continue to get from the same supplier? There are many manufacturers of these that do look identical. Good news is they are also inexpensive along with being cheaply made. Have opened up a couple failed units and find it's being poor soldering in assembly that is the problem. Internal board and circuit are likely still good.
Can't you use the charger from a mighty?
Hello all, I wanted to share some pictures of my recent Skeletor housing build.
After deciding on the overall concept, A Lament Configuration design inspired by the Hellraiser movies,
I started with a 4” cube “Softball display case”.
Drilling the styrene initially was a bit stressful and I ended up ruining the first lid when trying to step up from a 1/2” to 9/16”.
I ended up buying a 3pk of “step” drill bits that cut much smoother and was able to get the holes to the right size.
The vinyl sticker panels were sourced from Etsy. They had to be custom ordered and unfortunately they weren’t exactly 4” and neither was the case it seemed. The case was just shy of 4” and the black border of the image on the sticker was slightly larger than 4”. This made for the most stressful part of the build as each panel had to be had cut to size. It took a while to receive the stickers and I was terrified of making a mistake at this point. After the first panel went relatively smooth, I felt much better. I also decided to paint the inside of the cube black. This actually helped me hide the imperfections in my cuts of the panels in the end.
Cutting the circles for the switch, battery indicator and charger port were a little tricky as well. I was very fortunate that the gold border on the panels was very close to the same size as the small side sections of the lid. A very very fortunate coincidence indeed.
The end result turned out much better than I had imagined.
I do still have a little work left inside. I need to secure most of the components and I’m still working out the best way to do this without preventing me from removing the battery pack to exchange batteries eventually. The charging port is counter sunk into a small chunk of balsa wood that will hopefully be sufficient in holding it in place. I will also guide the wires a little better. I think I’m going to also try to put a clear coat on it to prevent the vinyl from peeling.
HUGE shout out to @Pipes for making this possible to begin with!!
I just got home. I'm gonna relax for a little and then get the portiside. I'll shoot that PM over to you in a little while
This is sweet.....really like it. Where'd you get the battery power indicator, or is it part of what you received with the guts?
EDIT: On this note.....does anyone have any notions of what would make a good battery power indicator, I would prefer something small, and discreet in appearance. I may even place it on the rear of my unit, so functionality first. Cheers
@FryMeALiver the battery level indicator came with Pipes’ skeletor model. It might be listed on his parts list for the heater build.
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