Discontinued ThermoVape

[Nick Brand]

hey all! my brother's TV1 arrived and we commenced the testings. I 'll post something later or tomorrow... For the time how long it takes for the batteries to recharge when nearly depleted? it seems forever... luckily the trusty solo is also by my side to save the night

Mine's arrived as well, and my first hits, with either battery or PA were sweet and delish. I do begin inhaling after only a second at most- I'm out for pure combustion-less vapor. Putting on the smooth-flow got me combustion though, the first run through. Learned that a quicker pull's required to avoid that.
The mflb's trench seems huge compared to the T1's bowl. Should be able to make yer weed go even further with the T1.
The only issue so far that I'm having is that the Revolution conversion kit's adapter will not screw all the way down, neither with the PA- or battery-bodies. Unless there's something I'm missing (very well could be) we may have a return in the making (just the adapter though, I think). edit: looking at the adapter thread with a trichome scope reveals what may be enough thread roughness to keep it from screwing in all the way.

 

[Nick Brand]

I'm wondering if you have a dud OF, mine stands up on it's own, no problem, unplugged. The weight of the unit presses the connector into the sleeve, just enough for it to stand up. Not sure why yours won't...

Mine does'nt stand up on it's own either, unless you wanna go Cirque de Soleil and try to balance it on the jack. I think our springs tensions are juuust tight enough that they won't retract. A nice spring tension would be that it could retract even without the top, mountpieces, etc. on, so that you could fill the bowl while it's safely balanced.

 

[jambandphan03]

Mine's arrived as well, and my first hits, with either battery or PA were sweet and delish. I do begin inhaling after only a second at most- I'm out for pure combustion-less vapor. Putting on the smooth-flow got me combustion though, the first run through. Learned that a quicker pull's required to avoid that.
The mflb's trench seems huge compared to the T1's bowl. Should be able to make yer weed go even further with the T1.
The only issue so far that I'm having is that the Revolution conversion kit's adapter will not screw all the way down, neither with the PA- or battery-bodies. Unless there's something I'm missing (very well could be) we may have a return in the making (just the adapter though, I think). edit: looking at the adapter thread with a trichome scope reveals what may be enough thread roughness to keep it from screwing in all the way.

I would think it safe to say the smooth flow should not have effected the combustion. It was more likely you held the switch on just long enough for it to over heat the herb and cause combustion, and/or as you say, maybe not drawing hard enough to move the air around properly. I have the same trouble sometimes, and have combusted on several occasions mostly from not paying attention to how long the switch is on before I start to hit. 5-10 sec activation is what I aim for before hitting, depending on how warm it already is.

 

[Nick Brand]

I would think it safe to say the smooth flow should not have effected the combustion. It was more likely you held the switch on just long enough for it to over heat the herb and cause combustion, and/or as you say, maybe not drawing hard enough to move the air around properly. I have the same trouble sometimes, and have combusted on several occasions mostly from not paying attention to how long the switch is on before I start to hit. 5-10 sec activation is what I aim for before hitting, depending on how warm it already is.

thanks, jbp. I'm only three hours into my first use, so I guess I've got a bit more learning to do.

 

[jambandphan03]

Mine does'nt stand up on it's own either, unless you wanna go Cirque de Soleil and try to balance it on the jack. I think our springs tensions are juuust tight enough that they won't retract. A nice spring tension would be that it could retract even without the top, mountpieces, etc. on, so that you could fill the bowl while it's safely balanced.

Well, I guess I'm the lucky one there, it does have a very slight wobble if I bump it, I can tell it's just barely letting me stand it up.

 

[Nick Brand]

Well, I guess I'm the lucky one there, it does have a very slight wobble if I bump it, I can tell it's just barely letting me stand it up.

With the battery body, the t1 stands balanced enough for me to get in there and do some micro-surgery in the bowl. I take a paper clip, straighten it fully out, then put a 90 degree bend on the last quarter inch of an end, and use that for bowl stirs. I also like to spill the bowl out after a pull and roll the t1 body over the herb to "mill" it- flatten and crush. This creates less dust (to get thru the holes) than grinding.

 

[Pipes]

Mine seems to stand up just fine....

Pipes

 

[OF]

Well, I guess I'm the lucky one there, it does have a very slight wobble if I bump it, I can tell it's just barely letting me stand it up.

Don't get me started on that 'just barely able to stand up' stuff. I'm trying not to drink that much any more......

Life might be less exciting, but it's less exciting.

OF

 

[Meat]

So im pretty much positive that the battery charger I received with my evo lv isnt working. The lights dont come on when i put the battery in it and i left it charging during work and came back and the heating core isnt glowing.

Edit: I am also in the works of composing a thorough review of the evolution lv, and once I get the adapters for the sv and t1, I will do a nice comparison. I feel like it will help alot of people as I intend on answering many of the questions I had when I was shopping and researching this as well as many different vapes (all portable). Because we all know most people arent going to go through a 117 page forum, especially if one can summarize and review, and compare/contrast tv botanical vaporizers. I can also compare it to my past vapes (NO1, IO), though that will most likely be done at a different time.

 

[Nick Brand]

Don't get me started on that 'just barely able to stand up' stuff. I'm trying not to drink that much any more......
Life might be less exciting, but it's less exciting.
OF

OF, it looks like a loosening of the hex nut around the jack barrel, and then a screwing of the barrel to make it flush, and then re-tightening the hex may solve our problem. I'm not going to try anything until TV says it's okay to try it. whuddya tink, mon?

 

[OF]

OF, it looks like a loosening of the hex nut around the jack barrel, and then a screwing of the barrel to make it flush, and then re-tightening the hex may solve our problem. I'm not going to try anything until TV says it's okay to try it. whuddya tink, mon?

I'd considered that but didn't like the lack of something to back it up. I was afraid of having it go loose and getting bad contact with ground. I suggested a spacer (washer) inside when I picked mine up, Tim said he'd look into it (you can't disassemble it to put one in after the fact). I'd also considered just filing the extra off (and may someday try that).

For now a short piece of 100# test fishing leader (.040 or so) inside the outer tube seems to have it solved.

No matter what, you'll have to unplug the cable each time. Perhaps just a right angle connector and some sort of stand is the best solution. It's not like you're going to go far what with the cord and all.

Good thinking, thanks. I'm sure it will evolve or become a non issue over time, aren't you? As it stands (or falls over in this case....) it's pretty neat IMO.

OF

 

[Nick Brand]

No matter what, you'll have to unplug the cable each time. Perhaps just a right angle connector and some sort of stand is the best solution. It's not like you're going to go far what with the cord and all.

I like to have both hands free while I'm grinding, filling, etc. The stand w/angled connector would help here, as well as help using the t1 with the glass adapter (w/ med grade tubing) more convenient.

thinking, thanks. I'm sure it will evolve or become a non issue over time, aren't you? As it stands (or falls over in this case....) it's pretty neat IMO.
OF

That hot air being injected into the herb (convection) certainly gets the job done. I find that I need a full bowl to get a nice lungful of vapor, and that it only takes about 2-4 pulls for me to get what I want out of the herb- flavor and a euphoric high (I'll use the concentrate vaporizers if I'm looking for a strong effect). Perfectly portable, and stealthier in both looks and use than the mflb. Do I like it? To quote Triumph, the insult comic dog, "oh yessss, ohhhhh yessssssss".

 

[natural farmer]

Guys, can someone help out? Last night my brother's new TV1 was working ok, today the core won't light at all and I can't remove the delrin sleeve around it so I can try to readjust the o ring inside the switch. If I boil it will it be easier to remove? Oh man, this is a super tight fit... I saw the vids but can't do it any more, I am soaked in sweat!

EDIT: I just noticed the switch can get out with no need to remove the sleeve fist, I placed the o-ring again and put the switch back in but it still won't heat. Dead in a day???

 

[OF]

Guys, can someone help out? Last night my brother's new TV1 was working ok, today the core won't light at all and I can't remove the delrin sleeve around it so I can try to readjust the o ring inside the switch. If I boil it will it be easier to remove? Oh man, this is a super tight fit... I saw the vids but can't do it any more, I am soaked in sweat!

No need to remove the sleeve, it's pressed on now (old video), if (for whatever reason) you want to remove it, yes you need to boil it.

There are two heaters in the core, it basically has to be a bad battery (either of the two will kill it) or (more likely) the switch. Unscrew the top section (like you were changing batteries), pull the switch down to remove it, fish out the ring. The ring in first, square against the bottom (I use the switch in backwards, big end first) then put the switch in pushing it in as far as possible.

I assume you've swapped batteries?

OF

 

[natural farmer]

I ISO'ed and boiled the upper parts, except the switch, dried a bit, put everything together and the core is still dark... Do you think I should boil the switch too? Oh boy, my bro will be very disappointed when he wakes up... I 'm a little disappointed too...

 

[jambandphan03]

Have you checked to be sure your batteries are charging properly?

 

[natural farmer]

charge is OK for 5 of the 6 batteries... already talked with TV about the sixth and they will send another one together with a new core I guess (if I don't work this out)... Tried all batteries, the core looks dead, except if it's the switch.

 

[OF]

I ISO'ed and boiled the upper parts, except the switch, dried a bit, put everything together and the core is still dark... Do you think I should boil the switch too? Oh boy, my bro will be very disappointed when he wakes up... I 'm a little disappointed too...

NO, do not boil the switch (or batteries). If you wash anything in there there's no way to get it out again. If you've had the core out, that's probably the problem. It has to be solidly screwed down against the shoulder just above the threads. The o-ring around the top often prevents that. It has to be down flush as seen from the side just above the cap threads. As a test, you can remove the o-ring so it doesn't fight you. You can't run that way, but it's a good test. If you've got VG or e-cig juice around, that's a good lube. Otherwise, if it's too stiff, you might try a thin film of vegetable oil on the ring.

Is there any chance this could be one of the older units with two piece bases for the heat core? If so, they can unscrew in the middle sometimes causing just this problem.....how old is it?

OF

 

[natural farmer]

It's flush and well screwed alright, just tried it without the O-ring and it screws the same. The TV1 is brand new, we just got it yesterday and the core part is one piece. The only thing I can get out is the switch, the core itself and I managed to remove the delrin but as you said it must be press fitted and I won't do it again, it gave me a really hard time...
I can't get what could go wrong with the switch as it is so simply designed so my guess is the core... Last night I kind of noticed that before going to bed, only one core was visible... Maybe I was wrong as my brother kept hitting it and he took it to bed with him and likely kept hitting it for some time.This morning when I tried to use it with some fresh bats nothing happened though. And it's dead for some hours now... Damn luck! Why us??? Why???

 

[OF]

It's flush and well screwed alright, just tried it without the O-ring and it screws the same. The TV1 is brand new, we just got it yesterday and the core part is one piece. The only thing I can get out is the switch, the core itself and I managed to remove the delrin but as you said it must be press fitted and I won't do it again, it gave me a really hard time...
I can't get what could go wrong with the switch as it is so simply designed so my guess is the core... Last night I kind of noticed that before going to bed, only one core was visible... Maybe I was wrong as my brother kept hitting it and he took it to bed with him and likely kept hitting it for some time.This morning when I tried to use it with some fresh bats nothing happened though. And it's dead for some hours now... Damn luck! Why us??? Why???

Last I heard there'd been a single dual failure out of something over 6000 units (probably well over that by now), switches and mechanical issues have been the problems. And batteries, which you've eliminated.

One coil going out will get hot, but will vape very poorly if at all. You'd notice it for sure.

Greece? Swell. OK, do you know anyone with 'a meter'? Specifically we want to measure the resistance of the core at the connector.

Edit: Hey, here's an idea, what's the local e-cig market like? Can you buy a standard 510 screw e-cig cart? It can screw into the same socket as the heat core and if all is well get really hot really fast (6 Volts not 3.7)......

OF

 

[natural farmer]

I could find a meter if you tell me how to do it man . The e-cig market is going crazy but I can't afford a cart right now...

 

[OF]

I could find a meter if you tell me how to do it man . The e-cig market is going crazy but I can't afford a cart right now...

Great! We need an Ohmmeter. It's part of the common 'multi meter'. Borrow it and we'll run this puppy to ground. Only a few parts, we can check every one if needed.

Thanks. Let me know when you're ready?

OF

 

[natural farmer]

thanks mate, will do

 

[natural farmer]

ok OF, got the multimeter! skype or here?

 

[OF]

ok OF, got the multimeter! skype or here?

Sorry, don't skype.....we'll have to do it the old fashioned way.....

Set the meter to the lowest ohms range, probably 200. Put the probes in the "com" (common) jack and the one probably closest to it labeled "V (Omega) mA". Turn it on, the display should come up with 1 showing and the rest of the numbers blanked out. Touching the probes together should get it to shift to a low value, typically something like 00.9 Ohms.

Now hold one probe on the treads of the heat core and probe the button on the end with the other. We're looking for something about one Ohm higher than touching the probes shows.

What do you get?

OF