Discontinued ThermoVape Revolution for concentrates

[SameOldTim]

Hey!

I always love seeing you guys try out all these cool ways to cool down the device. It defiantly gets our gears turning....

I had some GREAT testing this weekend, a lot of success with some new goodies! lol

Just curious if anyone has tried out the Kart-Keepers? what do you think about them? worth while?

Cheers,

Tim

 

[kushcabbage]

new goodies you say?

 

[DreamTime]

Hey!

I always love seeing you guys try out all these cool ways to cool down the device. It defiantly gets our gears turning....

I had some GREAT testing this weekend, a lot of success with some new goodies! lol

Just curious if anyone has tried out the Kart-Keepers? what do you think about them? worth while?

Cheers,

Tim

Haven't tried the Kart-Keepers, but it would be awesome if you sold a holder like the one in this pix:

I'd add a few additional spots on it that have raised larger threads so it could hold adapter interfaces as well. Maybe anodize it black and stamp your logo onto it somewhere

 

[707vallejo707]

After almost a month of heavy use, I finally iso soake and boiled my dart, and it seems to have that good clean feeling. Lol,man the Dart is here to stay. My question is are clouds usually thicker on the SV vs the LV dart? I'm using my LV on a VV at 3.7 but I have a 4.2 and 4.7 setting on it will those burn out the heating core?

 

[OF]

My question is are clouds usually thicker on the SV vs the LV dart? I'm using my LV on a VV at 3.7 but I have a 4.2 and 4.7 setting on it will those burn out the heating core?

SV and LV are basically the same power wise. It's safe enough to drive the LV at 4.2 as a 'fresh off the charger' battery can do that in the TV supplies for a little while, but I'd stay clear of 4.7 which is sure to push it over the line. It's like a 60% overload over nominal.

Depending on the VV you're using, the supply might die as a result of the increased voltage. It will push the current past the 2.5 Amp limit. I bet you find a warning in the instructions for the supply about not going to high voltages with 'cartomizers under 2 Ohms' or some such? IMO good advice there. DART might survive just fine but you could trash your VV head. Unless it protects itself, 4.7 is no doubt going to cause troubles in that case.

Glad you like your DART, neat little units aren't they?

OF

 

[SameOldTim]

I firmly believe the LV is the hard hitter, all the numbers say otherwise but the LV's defiantly put out the clouds!

Maybe its just because i like to use my UltraLite so much..... lol

 

[707vallejo707]

K 4.2 is the limit. I'm actually using a VV USB passthrough, I used it while my MacBook was asleep and I had power the whole ride down to LA! And using those 510 extensions really get hot quicker than the gripper extensions. I might get a couple just because even if they burn out...

 

[707vallejo707]

Why is it sometimes even when y darts screwed in w the extensions it won't turn on. I hve to wiggle and barley screw it in. It was workin fine but it just gets to be a PITA now could it be the threads are getting screwed up when I unload the tool?

 

[kushcabbage]

Why is it sometimes even when y darts screwed in w the extensions it won't turn on. I hve to wiggle and barley screw it in. It was workin fine but it just gets to be a PITA now could it be the threads are getting screwed up when I unload the tool?

alright

And using those 510 extensions really get hot quicker than the gripper extensions. I might get a couple just because even if they burn out...

Let's see if I can help you out. These extensions can't burn out because they are sealed, just floating pieces of metal breaking and completing the circuit. The gripper extensions are really just a wire that handles that current, and the dart will burn it out. The extenders are the way togo if you want to extend or soak up some heat. The way the center pin sits for different applications it floats up and down. Alright next part to think about is each pin has to be sitting just right IE the extensions have to be screwed evenly all together with small gap until you feel resistance, and it acts like a snake.. or like I do..
Screw those suckers together one my one so all the center pins acts as one big pin. Now like this the pin will be sticking out of the bottom. Depending on battery this will be just fine. You won't have to worry about shorts, just note that you can't screw the whole assembly flush just until the center pins hits the bottom contact on your battery! So please don't strip any threads or ruin any batteries by screwing it until you think it's "flush"
Note if your looking to compliment those extenders if you get the hang of them 510 to ego's are good options for heat-soaking and adding a cone around the dart core.
Good luck!

 

[OF]

Why is it sometimes even when y darts screwed in w the extensions it won't turn on. I hve to wiggle and barley screw it in. It was workin fine but it just gets to be a PITA now could it be the threads are getting screwed up when I unload the tool?

Because extensions were never intended to be stacked.

They were, however, intended to mate 'anybody's' to 'anybody else's' (or in some cases theirs??) gear so they have to build 'float' into the center pins. Note they not only wiggle in the insulation but will also slide fore and aft since the nose on one 510 thing might be a little longer (or shorter) than the last. They need to be careful since they also want to screw down solidly on the shoulder to be mechanically solid, but don't want the inside coming up short. This means that the center pin has to be a mite short, but there's also some springback in most carts, the center pin actually gets pushed in a little as it screws down tight on the outside.

By 'cheating' and staking up the adapters you can get caught it total clearance problems, too many slightly short center pins to make solid contact.

That's why. They're doing exactly what they're supposed to, you're the one that's not?

OF

 

[kushcabbage]

sometimes a little cheating is alright

 

[OF]

sometimes a little cheating is alright

For years my motto was "there's a way to cheat at everything". I still have that streak in my nature I guess.

Along the I learned sometimes you gotta think things through further than others. Sometimes the 'quick fix' is clever, sometimes smarter guys have considered and rejected it. Makes it fun, right?

OF

 

[707vallejo707]

It's working now. That makes sense, thx you guys.

 

[BudBuddy]

My LV Dart is still going strong after months of heavy daily use. I blow out the top piece to clear the oil every few dabs or so but in terms of ease of use, clean up and vapor production this is still my favorite vape.

Edit* also forgot to mention for cooling I still use my UklraMax RES and I have yet to be burned like I have with other exposed carts like Omicrons or even the Rev. It's an expensive option but I wouldn't change my set up ever unless TV can floor me with a dedicated cooling solution.

 

[kushcabbage]

I'll even throw in a
interesting technique, look for vapor flowing from the bottom and shove it up the hydratubes butt.

 

[707vallejo707]

Ultramax Res? With the dart? Where could I get info on that? I searched the forums and online but I didn't did much but what's on innovapor.com

 

[Pipes]

Ultramax Res? With the dart? Where could I get info on that? I searched the forums and online but I didn't did much but what's on innovapor.com

IMO. it's a short term solution for a make shift 510 adapter. Not really it's intended purpose. It's the same as using the T1 shell as an interface for 510 devices. I still like the Delrin interface that comes with the EVO upgrade. Don't know why TV doesn't list it separately. Can get for $20 normal price if email for instructions to sales@thermovape.com . The all metal unit that comes with the REV or DART upgrade just isn't as sexy.

Pipes

 

[Venomous]

Is that the t1 Glass adapter you're using? Would be badass if Tim could make a glass adapter for the rev that would work with th hydra tube.

 

[707vallejo707]

Anybody know a good USB passthrough for dart lv?

 

[jpdnkstr]

Anybody know a good USB passthrough for dart lv?

I would suggest O-phos w/adapter, based on my experience with LV DART on Omi, but I do not own an O-phos.

 

[kushcabbage]

Anybody know a good USB passthrough for dart lv?

as soon as the PA adapter from TV comes out in LV your good if you have a base, other wise I'd recommend the O-phos with a few extensions to keep heat off that pretty battery in that pen, or an ego-t or w 1200mah battery? I dunno other wise the omicron hvd with no time out running 3.7 and when the usb passthrough comes out for that v2 bottom..

 

[707vallejo707]

The Ultramax looks like a good idea, I'm also considering just getting a bolt.

 

[kushcabbage]

The Ultramax looks like a good idea, I'm also considering just getting a bolt.

just a note, that bolt pic I posted back the switch failed, and I'm being sent a replacement. Opened up a ticket on madvapes hopefully the next bolt will last me longer. I do not know how reliable are don't have much experience. But that's neither here nor there, I'd recommend the standard thermovape base, you can load a 3.7 battery, or 2 3.0 batteries for Standard volt if you ever want to upgrade. Plus the passthrough is most likely very soon in the works for lv. Very modular stuff that thermovape equipment.

 

[SameOldTim]

IMO. it's a short term solution for a make shift 510 adapter. Not really it's intended purpose. It's the same as using the T1 shell as an interface for 510 devices. I still like the Delrin interface that comes with the EVO upgrade. Don't know why TV doesn't list it separately. Can get for $20 normal price if email for instructions to sales@thermovape.com . The all metal unit that comes with the REV or DART upgrade just isn't as sexy.

Pipes

http://thermovape.com/products/evolution-interface

This the one your talking about?

 

[OF]

Anybody know a good USB passthrough for dart lv?

There really is no such thing.

A USB port just doesn't supply enough power. Period. Can't be done. 5 Watts max. Half what you want.

You need one of two things, either a unit with an on board charger that can charge the battery first (you then hit off the battery as it charges between hits) or a more powerful supply. The first is what O-Phos does (as an example) or your cell phone the second is what MFLB and TV do with their PAs (no battery) or what THC has planned as I understand it.

I understand sometimes guys call the first (battery supported) scheme a 'pass through' but it's not. The second is, but a USB port doesn't have enough steam for the job.

OF