Discussion in 'Portable Vaporizers' started by sessnet, Jan 20, 2012.
Set meter to dcv 20 and touch leads to each end of battery.
Hm, yeah that's what I figured after reading the manual for my meter... Except that instead of giving me a variable number, it just reads 1. In the manual it says if it reads 1 go to next higher Voltage setting, but clearly the battery isn't over 20. Something else I'm missing here? (could be this volt meter, just borrowed it from my brother)
Could be a dead battery. That would do it. Grab a regular nine volt and test it and see if meter is working.
Give the heater a quick check.
With the meter set the way it is in the picture (200 Ohm) turn it on.
Should say 1. Touch the leads together.
Meter should go to zero or close to it.
If all is good. Touch one end to the outer casing of the REV and the other lead to the center pin where it says LV.
Should read 1 or so ohm. If not, touch the leads together again to double check the path.
Try again. If meter stays at 1 still the REV is opened up. Toast.
If not we'll go to next step.
Sorry I can see some confusion in my discription. When I say 1 when leads are open the meter's 1 will be on the other side indicating infinity. Not 1 as in measurment.
Hm, I think maybe there's something wrong with this meter as I just tried it on a fresh 9v battery under the 20DCV setting and it also reads 1...
Set as in pic (200 Ohm), turned on. Touch leads together, reading goes to 0. Touch one end to LV, other to out casing (near where it says Revolution), still reading 0.
Then I go to switch. Place one of each side, without pushing, still reads 0. When I press the switch together to activate, Ohms reading goes to about continuously goes up in 0.1 increments the longer I hold it on. Tap the leads together and back to 0.
I'm trying to get ahold of another Ohm meter to cross test with this one, as I know this ones a fairly cheap meter. I installed a new battery in the meter to make sure that wasn't it, I haven't replaced the fuse (don't have a spare) but it doesn't visually look burnt out.
I would be concerned about to meter reading zero across the core. Pending the meter should be able to see around an ohm. If is actually zero would mean there is a short in the core. I can't see anything in the picture but is there any damage to the outer threads of the 510 connector? More specifically, look for anything that could be causing a short. And does the white insulator between the center LV post and the outer threads look good?
If there is a short or intermittent short the battery will shut itself down.
Now that been said, your measurement of the switch is a little confusing. I think you met that it measures open not zero when not pushing it?? While pushing it should ideally go to zero. However, maintaining a constant pressure is needed. Easier to measure while installed. Put one side of meter to outer casing of REV and the other to the switch. Pushing in while measuring will be a bit easier. The result should be the same as measuring the element.
Hope this helps,
This is great! You're on the hunt, and thinking it through at each step. That's the key, finding the difference between what's expected and what is.
Good show on the Ohm meter, I'm not sure what the 5 Ohm reading is all about, but it could be the problem right there?
Anyway, checking the core is easy. Probe it at the connector, on lead on the body or threaded part, the other on the button contact on the end (probably says "LV" on it?). The heater element is connected between the two. You're looking for about 1.5 Ohms more than when you shot the probes together (usually reads a fraction of an Ohm due to the leads and contacts and other internal resistances in the meter). Bad units read 'open circuit' since the connection gets broken inside it.
I too keep coming back to the battery. You can test it with the 20 VDC range. Expect something like 3.6 Volts (up to maybe 4.2 if freshly charged, down to maybe 3.2 if it's discharged). The trouble is that we need the voltage under load (with the heater connected) to be sure. Substitution for a 'known good' unit is probably the best test.
Edit: Brother Pipes brings up a couple of good points (once again, right on cue....). I assume when you say 'zero Ohms' you're round it off for us? Shorted it should read something like 00.6? I disagree somewhat about the battery, it looks to be an AW IMR? No protection there, it won't quit until a shorted heater blows up (or kills the switch which the maker thinks is impossible....). However, several different failure modes in the battery itself can cause the overall problems you're facing. If you can get a spare to check I think that's key.
I like the 'measure it installed' idea but suggest you expand it a bit. Install the heater core and probe from the metal outside to the center pin on the switch (where the battery conctacs) while pressing the switch closed. Look for the 'shorted probes' reading plus about 1.5 Ohms more. OF
To those that have sent in their rev/dart cores for replacement,
I'm still under warranty so the replacement/rebuild is free on my dart core, and I do iso wash, boil and 20/20 to clean my core every once in a while. However, even after a fresh, very thorough cleaning, I'm still skeptical of sending a once dirty (always somewhat dirty if youre dealing with a porous ceramic, experience from healthstone) in the mail. Can some of you reassure me that this is common practice, because I don't see it being all that good of an idea. When i ask TV about it, they keep replying; send the top half of the device in, everything above the switch... my question still being about how safe it is sending in the core specifically, which I assumed would be the only part i would need to send in anyways.
Just reporting back: I went and picked up my other battery, but that appears to not be the issue. Full charge, tried either one, and now I don't seem to get any heat from the unit at all right now (not even sporadically like I was a few days ago...) Kinda worried about that, but I got a hold of TV and they are sending out a new switch, so I guess we'll know for sure in a couple days. I wanted to probe around more with the ohm/volt meter, but I don't seem to be getting reliable readings with it, so I'll just wait for the switch and go from there. Thanks everyone for all the help and suggestions so far.
rcflo: Well, I'm in California, and a medical user, so maybe my situation doesn't apply to you as much. But with a thorough cleaning and boiling, unless someone were to do any extremely detailed molecular analysis I don't think it would be an issue.
Again, this may just be from my position in California and not sending over state lines, etc. If it's any consolation, though, there are people who send more than a clean vape piece through the mail all the time.
For anyone looking for TV Revolution Darts I was able to find them in stock at vapehead.com for a very reasonable price. The owner is a fellow forum member and was very helpful about making sure I got exactly what I was looking for. Excellent customer service and great people to deal with.
I missed out getting one from TV before they sold out so I was stoked I was able to find a new one. Just wanted to pass it along in case there were any fellow forum members that were interested.
Had a quick question about batteries. Can I use only the green tenergy batteries that are 750mah or can I use the blue ones that are like 900mah? For a evolution/revolution. Thanks
No, stick with the ones the factory uses (the 750s), they are the best for the job.
Are they just selling the DART cores in SV? All I saw was the kit with the adapter. Please let us know...
I'm not sure if they are selling the pieces separately or not. Probably best to shoot them an email to make sure. Was told shipping usually takes about a week from Aus to US.
First Generation DART Blow Out!!! EXTREMELY LIMITED QUANTITY!CLICK HERE for the product page
We hope you all had a great Thanksgiving! As a token of our appreciation to our loyal customers, we are offering the last remaining stock of our Low Voltage (3.7v) Revolution DART Cartridges. This week only, the Low Voltage DART Cartridge is being offered at a final, reduced price. Stock up while you can because supplies are limited and once these cartridges are sold out, they will not be available again! Cartridges will come complete with DART loading tool and mouthpiece in white. Note: these are low voltage cartridges and are meant to operate between 3.7 to 4.2 volts. We do not guarantee the functionality of these cartridges paired with anything other than a ThermoVape device.
More information can be found at thermovape.com Have a wonderful holiday weekend.
The ThermoVape Team
The picture above is correct except these are shipping with white, extended mouthpieces.
These are the last of the units we will be retailing. At a special price for the forum. Cheers.
sorry for the semi noob question, how many hits should .5 of wax last ? I dabbed in 2 nights ago, and I think it was out by the next day
I'll take a dab at it.
If this was the first fill then there will be some which is wasted as "primer". Not sure of the numbers but once you feel the hits slow then it's time to add some more. You do not want to cook the concentrate. But OTOH you also do not want to flood it.
Once primed you will get the feel as to when to top er up. Using scales to weigh can help to determine exactly where your at. Should weigh unit before you start for a reference.
Hope this helps.
"I'll take a dab at it"???
Pipes, that's terrible. Who writes your stuff for you? That's a 'groaner' for sure.
Otherwise, let me second what the wise Brother says. My stock advice is to load .15 to .2 from clean, expect a few hits (probably pretty weak in fact). When it tapers off, give it .05 to .1 (never more) and go again looking for 10 or so more hits, plus or minus, before another refill. Don't add more than .1 ever (about a BB size piece, like a paper match head) or you'll slow the rig down and start cooking the goods in the process. Keep it running lean and it's fast, strong and fresh.
Loading half a gram at a time is asking for poor performance IMO. "Load small and often".
Wow thank you! each one, teach one .. thank u sensei
For reference, I don't load more than .1 of oil at once with my Ultra/AVA combo, but then again it's pretty easy for me since my oil comes in 1ml syringes, all I do is push a drop out.
I agree, if you can get clean uniform drops they seem to be a great measure for loading. Syringes sounds like good packaging for this guy, too bad TV is moving away from the line, I can see a great little loader to go with your DART. Load a gram or two, push the button, get a drop.... Like a tiny little grease gun for the waxes maybe?
Anybody else have any experience they would like to share? Just ordered another DART (reserves put up yesterday) but would still love to get this one replaced, just need to know if boiling and iso washing the ceramic back to an off-white color is enough to send the core back to TV
I think that's plenty safe. If you are really paranoid, use an assumed name when you mail it in. TV will know who you are, especially if you contact them by email.
Hey, just figured I'd update you all with my sitation.
I ended up contacting TV about the potential switch issue. Again, customer service was great and easy all the way through. They sent out a new switch ASAP, which actually arrived a few days ago but I was up North for the holidays. Anyhows, I still wasn't positive it was the switch so have been on edge thinking the whole time...
Fast forward to today: Get home, check mail, new switch. Popped that new switch in there with some fresh Amber Glass (super duper easy to load the in dart) and a fresh battery and BAM! Works like a charm. None of the issues I was having before are present anymore. Push up, instant heat, tasty vapor and quick.
Even after just todays use I'm already stoked, so just wanted to let anyone else that may be potentially having troubles to keep at it and talk with TV, they'll get you set-up. It's either the core, or the switch, or a battery issue, but overall these devices are super simple.
I've already consumed all my Amber Glass, so I'll probably have to make up a new batch tomorrow, but I'm actually excited to do it now that the TV Ultra is working so well.
Just wanted to say thanks again fellas and keep up the good work. True community service right here. *tips hat*
Great to hear, thanks for the feedback. Great support from TV is hardly news, but it's sure worth repeating over and over so everyone knows it's there for them too should they need it (unlikely as that might be, it's reassuring at least).
I agree 'simple' is a great advantage here, but it goes way past that. Excellent design, the best materials for a give situation, top quality and precision of part manufacture all play a key role as well. Without them, simple is just simple. This forms the base for the employees who care passionately about the product and customers (especially serious medical ones) to 'do their thing'.
In the end all we have to do is give them a bit of money (IMO modest when you consider what you get) and enjoy the fruits of their labor. I personally am getting pretty good at that last part.....still working on it, of course, but getting better all the time.
Thanks again for the great report. Good luck on the next batch of fuel for your little friend. He can get thirsty you know.
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