Discussion in 'Portable Vaporizers' started by sessnet, Jan 20, 2012.
who says that? i heard it was other way round ;o) x
Hey! Where'd everybody go???
We're all in the Cera thread
So any try overdriving the Revolution or Evolution at 7.4? They dont seem to function well with the Cr123a batts from delta9 on persei. So weak..
7.4 Volts is too much for these units. Will burn out with prolonged use at that level. Would likely work for a while but there will be element damage (de-formations) fairly quick.
If having a hard time at 6 volts, the unit has something else up. Flooded or possibly the concentrate itself? Read back as others have had a hard time, myself included.
7.4 Volts is specifically "not recommended" by TV, it's a serious overload. A 'hot off the charger' battery basically doubles the output. This will burn the oil in one and actually offers no performance advantage in the other since the Evolution core runs at saturation already. It will, of course, wreck either of them if you keep it up. SV is 6.0 Volts, not 7.4. More over, Li ion batteries can show much higher 'hot off the charger' rises than the RCR123As the units are designed for (very rarely over 3.1 each ever).
Hey it's me again.
Originally I had some troubles with a malfunctioning core, but TV took care of that quick and easily. Thanks for the great customer service.
Since then I've been loving the Revolution, and finally have a good source for quality errls, with which is preforms much better.
However, I've been having a few troubles still. At first I was thinking it was a battery thing as I learned technique and loading amounts. However, now I'm almost positive it's a switch issue.
Randomly the unit just won't heat up. Fresh batteries, all screwed together in the right order and tight. I've tried the switch troubleshooting suggested by TV. However, I constantly seem to have issues with it working for a few hits, then just randomly not working for a bit. Then it starts working again.
I've finally tried removing the o-ring from the switch, and it seems to work much better, but still not 100% (and now the switch can fall out when swapping batteries).
When I seat the o-ring all the way down, and then press the switch in place, once I let go the o-ring presses the switch out a few centimeters (can visibly see it being press back out). With the o-ring present, it's pretty hard to press the switch up to activate, and certainly tiring to hold it on for long periods of time.
Without the o-ring everything feels better, but I still randomly run into that switch or connection issue where the unit just won't heat up. Sometimes I don't do anything and it works 5 minutes later, sometimes I do a complete unassembly and reassembly and it still won't work.
It's frustrating because it's not consistent. When it works, I love thing thing. Perfect for so many scenarios. But without it being reliable it really makes it hard to enjoy. I find myself fighting with the switch and wondering why it's not heating, and especially frustrating when trying to show friends.
I guess my main question is if anyone else encounters anything similar to this, and if it was a switch issue, trouble with the o-ring assembly process, or anything else I can do to make this work more reliably? Any help is greatly appreciated!
Huh, weird, I haven't had any switch issues with my Ultra. Take it apart so that you have three pieces, the body, the switch, and then the Revolution piece. Screw the switch onto the body, then the Revolution onto the rest and see if it doesn't fix it. If not, try attaching the switch to the Rev and then to the body. I've had maybe a half dozen attempts where it didn't turn on, and the quickest way for me to resolve it was to give the battery sleeve a quarter turn whichever way. After that, it works fine. Maybe try it with the batteries positive side down?
I find it odd that you have so many switch problem, I haven't thought about contacting TV for any issues yet and I've been using mine heavily for the last 3 weeks now I guess. Heavily. My only regret now is that I didn't get the damn Revolution piece for it, I opted instead for the AVA because I wanted to use it as an e-cig as well. The downside to that is that I don't get the cutout right above the ceramic for easy application, but oh well. Works just like I want it to even if I do have to load oil from the top down.
The switch is certainly a point of interest for your symptoms.
I would just like to throw in another, sometimes overlooked, device quark which I have found. The connection from the battery sleeve and main handle can cause intermittent performance issues. I found that whenever the heat seems to drop off and fixed by "twisting" the battery sleeve while engaging the switch, indicates it's time to clean the sleeve and inside the main body. It really takes very little debris or contamination to imped the performance with low voltage, high current devices.
Just mentioning this as I have never actually had any switch troubles besides re-seating.
Can't believe I overlooked that too! If you throw it in your pocket like I do, you'll notice that it starts to get hard to slide it, or hard to make full contact, because of the debris that may get inside or build up between the sleeves. Easily remedied by taking the switch off and wiping the sleeve/inside of the outer body with my shirt.
Great catch Pipes! This is, I think, the third such unit fixed this way? I think it goes on the official 'try this first list' at this point, don't you? I wonder if it's skin oils that are attracting stuff? Whatever, 'clean the battery tube and inside of the sleeve' belongs on the hot tips list.....
i have had the same problem w/ all three of my TV devices. i just remove the o-ring.
Thanks, however not confirmed as for Hawper's unit but IMO definitely a simple thing to try.
I found it happened to me lots while sanding and testing the thumbpads. Took a while to put 2 and 2 together as to why my batteries always seemed low afterwards. Seems the main actual contact is around the bottom of sleeve where there is a cap of sorts. Mine is well worn and the finish is pretty much gone.
The indicator is improvement while twisting the sleeve. Means clean me...
If switch rest position is the problem then as Bob states, removing the O ring should solve it. Indicating something else is a little out.
Like I said, I vote it 'goes on the list'. I agree, it looks to me like the anti friction ring at the bottom of the battery tube is the contact and that is really reduced to a small patch at the back, it wouldn't take much of a bit of most anything to hang it up. Intermittent contact is a great clue.
Following Bob's examples can get you into trouble more often than out, but in this case if it solves the problems that's fine by me. I find that it's important to unscrew the cart or core before resetting the switch. You want the core or cart to back the switch down some to ensure solid contact I think. Otherwise the o-ring can flex a bit and pull the switch back out of contact.
Hey yeah thank you much for the ideas and suggestions.
I did notice a little 'gritty' feeling, as I've been taking the little bugger with me hiking/camping (great for windy situation, and being able to pack and go).
However, I just went through a complete disassembly and cleaning. Everything is about as clean as possible, and went through reassembly. Push switch up, instant heat. Ok, good. Tried up and down a few more times, all good.
Wait a few minutes, now all the sudden I get no heat at all. On, off, on, off... Nothing. Unscrew again, reseat switch, still nothing.
I've tried batteries both directions, with or without o-ring, every single way of reassembly (switch first, heating core first, etc) that I can think of, but still nothing that seems to be a fullproof method of making sure I get heat when activating the switch. Sometimes I press it up and it works instantly, other times I'm sitting there waiting, unsure. Which is a bummer, as I'd love to recommend this to friends (have buddies who use Gpens, etc) but can't until I can get this to work reliably...
Aggh... I've been unscrewing and screwing this thing back together over and over (probably about 20-30 times) over the last hour and can't get it to give any heat at all. I would hate it if somehow I messed up another heating core. Is there any way to check if it IS in fact the core or a switch issue?
I've only consumed about 5 grams total through this thing, and other than bringing it with me camping I think I've treated it very well.
In terms of cleaning all I've done is soak in 99% ISO in a ziploc and shake. Then rinse under hot water. Is this the correct procedure?
I'm tempted to record a video to show you guys the process I'm doing (from taking battery out of charger to assembly) to see if there is anything I'm doing wrong. Overall the device seems very simple and I don't understand what I could be missing, but you never know...
It's just getting a little frustrating now as it's about 50/50 whether it works or not. Can't get it to fire up at all right now, and I've got a brand new fresh batch of Jack Lemon errls sitting and waiting... I guess a little *looks both ways* combustion is in my future until I get this sorted out.
Again thanks for the help and suggestions, this forum is always a great resource.
I'm betting it is an intermediate switch issue. Some how the switch will be just right so it works but more often then not the switch will be in a way so that it doesn't work. I would guess the core isn't the issue as you have gotten it to heat up. I would contact email@example.com to see if they can send you out a new switch. (If you get a new switch and it still doesn't work I'll feel bad. I just wish everything would just work)
You can boil the core but it should still work before you boil it. Maybe play with the switch and maybe you will accidentally fix it?? Just don't get the switch wet. It sounds like you are correctly putting it together as you have gotten it to work.
The forums are great (the internet is great). Being young it's like you don't need parents to ask how to do stuff. Just google or find a forum to ask questions.
Sure you can measure the core resistance to see if the coil is open if you have an Ohmmeter handy.....
However, if it works even sometimes it's most likely OK. Unlike dodgy switches, open heaters can't 'fix themselves'.
I'm not sure there is a correct procedure, but that should work. Boiling in water is more sure and fine to do.
While I agree trying a new switch seems like a good call at this point, I suspect you meant intermittent switch issue? Intermediate is kind of subjective, I bet the OP doesn't see anything minor with this problem....
My money's on the switch, I had a similar adventure early on. I still like the dirt on the slide tip though.
Edit: There's no chance we're looking at a battery problem is there? I does the same with multiple batteries?
Ha. Thanks. It was the middle of the night and I'm trying to use a big word. Should have checked the definition of it first.
I was originally thinking it was a battery issue as it was just happening occasionally, then thought of the switch possibility. I'm pretty sure the switch has something to do with it, as I think it's happened with both batteries, but it was seemingly happening more often with one. I finally put a mark on one of the batteries so I can tell them apart, and will try some further testing. I actually left the other battery at a friends yesterday, and only have the battery I was suspecting, which may be why I can't get it to fire at all right now.
I think there's an ohm meter somewhere around here. Would checking with that allow me to see if it is in fact the battery?
In volt meter mode it'll give you a fair indication. More importantly it'll allow you to check the heater (should be an Ohm or so) and then the heater (installed) and switch (probe from the adapter body to the movable switch contact, pressing the switch up as you read). Again, the combination should be about an Ohm.
Ok so I've got this multimeter here... I've never really used one before though. Just watched a few videos on YouTube so I think I understand the basics. I've got this one here: http://www.warmyourfloor.com/multi-meter-7-function-meter-for-measuring-resistance-ohms.html
Can I use this to isolate the problem? I've got everything apart and can check each thing individually (switch, core, battery) but am not sure exactly what kind of readouts from each I'm looking for that would indicate working or a problem.
Sorry to make this so complicated, but any help is always appreciated. I feel like I'm at least learning a few new things, too, so at least there's that
Edit: Okay, just found the manual for the Mutlimeter on the site abov e. Reading through it and now I get it (this one isn't automatic range, etc). I'll have to do some more reading and then probe around a bit to report back with findings.
Edit2: Edit2: Here's what I've learned so far. Set Meter to 200ohms (lowest ohm readings). Plugged red connecting to Ohm slot. Short tested the leads to reset to 0. Placed leads on lone switch (not pressed in, just touching) = 0. When I press the switch all the way in, the reading seems to hover around 5. Not sure exactly what this is indicating, but there's that...
Not sure where I should be probing on the core. On the LV at the bottom and the brass threads? Or the body?
OF might know a thing or 2 about that and can help.
Here is something I found which may assist you.
On that page is a Switch Trouble Shoot. (First one, top of page) I'll paste it here.
The switch is located in the interface that connects the heating core to the battery unit. There is a spring with metal contact that should be removed by hand.
The o-ring might come out with the switch or stay in the interface. Either way, you will need to place the o-ring back in the interface and seat it fully, with either a ballpoint pen, or by using the switch "upside down" to push against it. Then reassemble the unit and test it. Let us know the results and we can continue from there.
Make sure all contacts are clean and have no liquid or debris interrupting the flow from the batteries to the heating core.
This procedure is best performed with the heating core removed first and installed last. As the heating core threads all the way down it touches the o-ring and can push it out a hair. If everything is assembled this will not affect the connection as it threads down.
If you need further assistance, please call in or email us. Thank you!
Oh, oh, oh... when you screw off the Revolution, but leave the switch attached, you look down into the threading. There's a small circular metal plate there, that's the "other end" of the switch. That has to be clean! If it's dirty with oil, you overfilled it. It's happened to me a few times with e-juice where I'll drip more than 2 drops and it floods into there. That could possibly maybe be it. Honestly I have no clue, mechanical units like these are so easy to troubleshoot. If it's not A, it's B, or C.
As always, thanks for the tips and help. I'm almost thinking maybe it is a bettery thing, as I've only got one battery right now and still can't get it to fire at all. I'm going to pick up the other battery tomorrow so I'll test with that to confirm, but if anyone knows how to test the batter with this meter I can check before. This is what I'm working with:
Revolution (disassembled) from left to right. And here is a close up of the core and switch (both appear clean and w/ fine connections...):
Also, if anyone knows what I should do to test the core that would be awesome as well. I doubt it's the core (had it rebuilt by TET only a few weeks ago), but ya never know. That's actually why I wanted to confirm and make sure cleaning with ISO is kosher and isn't somehow damaging the core?..
Off for more testing ...
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