The "Project" DIY Herbal Vaporizer

[EmDeemo]

5 repetitive clicks, 20 repetitive clicks, glares, stares, shouting, flowers, a trip to Paris, the promise of a brighter future, its refusing to respond to any of it

Refund arranged, new unit should be here on tuesday

 

[virtualpurple]

Highly recommend you look through the menu instructions as has lots of features. But once all set up, you will love it.

@natural farmer, so happy you're enjoying the Project so much. It does become a daily driver very quickly. And have never had a coil burn out on one yet. At least, that I've heard of. So seems to be surviving the test of time too.
Removing the silicone cover is a feat best done by holding around the bottom and prying it up. Two reasons, one is that the sleeve holds the screen and squeezing the sleeve without the tube installed will crush it and will need to be taken out, straightened and re-installed. The second is as Farmer discovered, the weakest part is grooves that have the intake air holes, and as we now know, can be pulled enough to split it at that point. Under normal use this should not be any concern.

Thanks pipes for the info. My girlfriend had tossed the box out with old mail accidentally so I put it off mentally for a span. Only problem I'm having right now is getting my computer to download the appropriate software to be able to flash it (I think, I still get easily confused with the actual process. Not sure if its a website problem or just something with my laptop, which is quickly showing age and wear.

 

[rabblerouser]

Continuing to play with The Project. my new move is using the J-hook and the e-nano GonG. Best for seeing the display, even though it is upside down. And I have an easier time adjusting the depth of the screen in the GonG compared to the regular e-nano stem.

 

[funkyjunky]

for the mods pipes recommends the display can be flipped like his:

turn off device (5clicks)
hold plus and minus until you see display flipped
turn on device

awesome, i know!

 

[Pipes]

Try downloading from link below.
Newest "myevic" firmware. (Dec19,2016)
And I took out the non-relevant parts and left the Operation Instructions here.
Maybe you will have better luck with this route.
And although not for everyone. Here is the NFE software application. More for perks who want to really play with the firmware. It's the application used to get those pretty graphs of watts/temp/amps versus time.

 

[virtualpurple]

I have updated the firmware, the only thing I think I'm failing to do is get my screen to look how it does in your operation instructions above. My + and - buttons are controlling my watts instead of my temp by default. I'm going back over the instructions some more to see where I'm missing something.

 

[Pipes]

In the menu under "interface", make sure the option "PPWR" is turned "OFF". Should have being off by default.
That setting puts the set temp in the background and lets you vary the max power. No idea why one would like this but the option is there. Along with a ton of others.

 

[funkyjunky]

before entering said menu, make sure you are actually using TCR mode and not POWER mode (top of screen).

in case you need to change this, press three times fire to enter on screen settings (top text should start to flash). press '+' until you are at TCR mode. select with fire.

 

[EmDeemo]

Excuse my ignorance...

Is there anything about these batteries that makes them unsuitable for cuboid with eraser use?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00KYRH1JM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[KeroZen]

Nope, it's all good.

 

[EmDeemo]

Thanks!

 

[natural farmer]

I am rocking the Project at TCR 200, 180°-230°C. Coil is back at .54-.55 after some surges it did to .78. It could be due to dirty threads. Coil is barely glowing at 230° but can combust if I draw for more than 4-5 secs. I usually play around 200°-210° for good flavour, high temp hits.

Is it dangerous territory to be at TCR 200?

 

[Pipes]

I found higher TCRs give you a larger change to temperature per amount you the see on the display. I like it cause from beginning of session to the end is only one press of the button. The lower the value the less the scaling means in actual temperature change.
If you look at it on a graph as actual temperature change per numeral value.
At TCR 200, one click could be the difference of one push increases into combustion land. I'm still at TCR 190.
TCR = slop of temperature change, and temp set value = starting point along that slop. And there is interaction.
Dangerous,..? Well, hell yes, more because of possible outcomes when voyaging into unknown waters. Understanding what to expect is the answer.
But isn't that half the fun too?

 

[natural farmer]

I found higher TCRs give you a larger change to temperature per amount you the see on the display. I like it cause from beginning of session to the end is only one press of the button. The lower the value the less the scaling means in actual temperature change.
If you look at it on a graph as actual temperature change per numeral value.
At TCR 200, one click could be the difference of one push increases into combustion land. I'm still at TCR 190.
TCR = slop of temperature change, and temp set value = starting point along that slop. And there is interaction.
Dangerous,..? Well, hell yes, more because of possible outcomes when voyaging into unknown waters. Understanding what to expect is the answer.
But isn't that half the fun too?

Fun fun fun indeed!!!!

Although by going at TCR 200 I have found the temps to be closer to actual temps when I draw slow. I mean 180°, 190° C give me light, low temp vapor for ages and at 220°, 230° I can spent the load in a couple of hits the toasty way. .05 - .1 gr. loads that is. So what is going on here? High TCR seems spreaded enough for me.... With lower TCR I just need to raise the temp on the display. Higher TCR allows me to stay to more logical numbers. Forgot to mention I am at full wattage (150)...


And after I was set today with those numbers and thought I had mastered the beast I noticed that with my new stem (Air+OG pairing) and the added restriction of the Air stem I could rip forcefully without any tunnelling and hot spots of the load!!! With the OG that wouldn't work! A hole woulr be formed immediately due to the high air pressure and all I would suck would be hot air.
So I tried a bowl at 11 (and 12!!!) meaning 240° and 250° C on the display which would definitely burn everything with a normal, slow pull, and I ripped with all the power I had! Oh my!!! It was like I had a large Grasshopper hit at 5 through a bong! But this was dry... Clouds and clouds followed!!! And I am wasted... Yeah, the heater is quite strong. Don't think I can overwhelm it with the added restriction. It works amazing now!!! Man, where is that decriminalization??? Is it coming already??? Things are getting too fun!!!

 

[KeroZen]

Forgot to mention I am at full wattage (150)...

This might put unnecessary strain on your cells. Make sure they are up to the task. It's not because the mod allows you to select some given settings that your cells are able to sustain it.

I did a quick simulation here using your settings and based on the LG HG2 cell, and at 150W (to the atty) for a 0.57Ohm resistance, and assuming a mod efficiency of 90%, it's drawing over 22A from the cells when they start to lose charge (it starts over 20A and draws more and more current as the battery voltage drops) >> http://www.steam-engine.org/batt.asp?b=LG_18650HG2&mah=3000&c=6.666666666666667#

Even at 120W when your cells will be down to 3.3V (where your mod should start to complain about low voltage or cut altogether) it would be drawing in excess of 20A.

Assuming the HG2 are more 6C rated (18A max) than what the manufacturer says (and closer to the Samsung 30Q and Sony VTC6), and what they would become in reality after quite some cycles anyways, it would be better to not exceed 100W on your mod.

And that's already quite a lot and more than any portable vape on the market as of today (to my knowledge the current "winner" by Texan standards/criteria is the Boundless CF/CFX and possibly CFV/SwiftPro @ 80W peak heater output power)

PS: Of course it's just an advice to keep it safe and prolong your cells life. In practice, we are doing pulsed discharges and that max power setting on the mod is only for the initial warm-up when operating in TC mode. So it's drawing 150W only for short bursts whenever you push the trigger. And that's assuming the mod is able to deliver 150W in the first place as it might be out of its full-power range, cf >> http://www.steam-engine.org/modrange.asp

 

[EmDeemo]

I appear to be back up and running, further testing to follow.

Theres def something I'd wiggled wrong with the atomizer tho, with more 'no atomiser found' and 'atomizer short', and it reading ohms up to 1.33, but with some re-wiggling, taking the eraser sleeve off, the metal sleeve underneath that, and slight adjustment of the screw, its now back to reading 0.56 ohms. This was pre firing up the coil at all, so hopefully it wasnt a false reading thing again.

I've put it back together and its stayed at those readings, so ive locked the ohms in. Now just trying to get the temps setting around 200c to be vaguely as full of clouds as the volcano was at that temp. If I start coughing, I know I'm getting close

So far getting great taste tho, and small whisps of vapour. Feelings it for sure

(Testing just before I hit 'Post Reply', I'm on 0.56 ohms locked/65w/210c/TCR 145... The clouds are coming! The clouds are coming! Taste is wonderful!)

EDIT: Woah... 70w/TCR 160. Clouds. Minimal to no coughing. No draw resistance. Fast draw or slow draw, the heater is keeping up. As someone said earlier in the thread, this is the real deal folks

EDIT 2: I heard a small ping, the cuboid stopped recognising the atomizer again. Looks like I had pretty much burnt out the coil on the other cuboid I had that was buggy. The coil had snapped. Also, this new cuboid cuts out at 10s, the old one didnt. Anyway, rebuilding as we speak, I've got a new coil on, got that all set in how it works and the cuboid is recognising it again. Just gonna take it apart and make it look like the pics next.

 

[natural farmer]

This might put unnecessary strain on your cells. Make sure they are up to the task. It's not because the mod allows you to select some given settings that your cells are able to sustain it.

I did a quick simulation here using your settings and based on the LG HG2 cell, and at 150W (to the atty) for a 0.57Ohm resistance, and assuming a mod efficiency of 90%, it's drawing over 22A from the cells when they start to lose charge (it starts over 20A and draws more and more current as the battery voltage drops) >> http://www.steam-engine.org/batt.asp?b=LG_18650HG2&mah=3000&c=6.666666666666667#

Even at 120W when your cells will be down to 3.3V (where your mod should start to complain about low voltage or cut altogether) it would be drawing in excess of 20A.

Assuming the HG2 are more 6C rated (18A max) than what the manufacturer says (and closer to the Samsung 30Q and Sony VTC6), and what they would become in reality after quite some cycles anyways, it would be better to not exceed 100W on your mod.

And that's already quite a lot and more than any portable vape on the market as of today (to my knowledge the current "winner" by Texan standards/criteria is the Boundless CF/CFX and possibly CFV/SwiftPro @ 80W peak heater output power)

PS: Of course it's just an advice to keep it safe and prolong your cells life. In practice, we are doing pulsed discharges and that max power setting on the mod is only for the initial warm-up when operating in TC mode. So it's drawing 150W only for short bursts whenever you push the trigger. And that's assuming the mod is able to deliver 150W in the first place as it might be out of its full-power range, cf >> http://www.steam-engine.org/modrange.asp

I haven't seen it draw more than 120W but I don't hold a mirror while I am drawing anyway... I have seen 120W only on warm-up. And it's pulsing yeah, so it draws momentarily. I went full wattage cause I thought @Pipes does it like this and he's got some experience so I went with it. I came down to 100W for the moment just to be on the safe side. I don't see much difference anyway either 100W or 150W. But TCR sure has something to do with the temps as well. With TCR 150 my coil starts glowing at about 280°C but at TCR 200 it does that at 230°C. Stepping seems pretty much the same just by eyeballing it...

What I can say on the other hand is that ripping takes me to higher levels of highness than slow drawing... And this thing RIPS!

And yeah, I guess it's the most powerful vape I have ever tried.... Or is it Volcano?

 

[funkyjunky]

hey man, go to menu>vaping>algo and set it to PID, dont change the rest. it should stabilize the fluctuations by a lot.

edit, imo its save to use the batteries at their limits since we are using regulated box mods with several protection mechanisms.

edit2 @natural farmer try changing the coil resistance by 0.001ohms. increase for hotter,decrease for colder.

imo TCR 185 to 190 represents reality best, meaning 10degrees on the mod is really 10degrees, higher tcr means 10 degrees on the mod are 15+degrees in reality for example.

whereas the locked coil resistance as pipes said is for that 400degF are really 400degF and not say 350degF (in the case of too low locked coil resistance)

hope this helps

 

[EmDeemo]

Right... New coil made and fitted. Cant find either pair of my pliers so that was a challenge but im back on 0.61 ohms and things seem to be working fine.

Testing time again

 

[Pipes]

Yes, @KeroZen is correct about it being cranked up. You will likely never see the high wattage do to limitations of battery output rating. The high demand is not being sustained for long and should not be that hard on the battery. Good point though about the battery possibly dropping too much voltage under load which could cause the low battery protection to kick in. I think it kicks at 3.2 volt.?

Setting to 100 watts should be good to keep this from happening. I use VTC4 batteries as have tried the VCT5s and noticed zero change in performance. So IMO, going more than 25-30 amp rating is wasting money for this setup. Like having a larger diameter gas line to your engine than needed.
The car is a good comparison for those not into battery chemistry. Capacity is the size of the gas tank and C value or max current rating is the diameter of the feed line to the engine. The engine is the device being driving. The gas peddle is the temp setting along with all the other settings.
The other end of the scale is having the watts set too low, which triggers the device into thinking something is wrong when the resistance does change as fast as the firmware expects and kicks out of TC mode.

So in conclusion, I think we can agree a power setting between 60-100 watts all should work. The watts setting is generally a "set and forget about" one and is the most forgiving of all of them, as in has a large working range for our application.

@natural farmer, don't get too hung up on the TCR. You are using the slope of the resistance verses temperature curve, which impacts the temperature at any given value, to change the temperature. At some temp it will make minimum effect at at other set temperature the TCR will make a huge difference. All depends on what temperature you have it set to in comparison to the angle or slope the TCR is set to. Clear as mud..?

If not using the myevic firmware, a TCR of 145, and working in the upper limits of the temperature numbers, works fine.

If graduating to the myevic firmware, manually add .050 ohms (approx 8-9%) to the read value and lock it and turn off ohms checking. Then, set TCR to 190 and lower the temp to 370F area for a good starting point. You can now fine tune using using the manual ohms which is changeable in .001 ohm increments. Very accurate. Note that if you go over 10% difference from real resistance the lock turns off and reads turns back on.

I figured out the TCR by going back and forth between 370F (start of visible vapor) and 420F (can easily combust) Adjusting the TCR for combust point and resistance for start of vapor. Kind of like adjusting the back focus on a camera back in the day. Whereas, the focus would be the manual resistance adjust, at 370F visible vaporpoint and the back focus would be the TCR adjust at combust temp of 420F setting. The danger with this setup is the possibility one can easily turn the temp too high and the unit would run full out. It is important to keep the temp below 450F.

Now I will leave you more confused then ever...?

Edit: @funkyjunky beat me to it in a much shorter version.

 

[natural farmer]

Now I will leave you more confused then ever...?

I might have to re-read these two posts a few more times...

 

[EmDeemo]

 

[Pipes]

I think I see the problem...
Time to get your feet wet. I have come up with a way that helps make the coils.
Take one of the spare ss wires I sent and install the way shown below.



Now you need to make a jig. Take the top off a narrow type marker and cut two slits down the sides about 3/4" or so.



Now insert the end of the loop into to cap and wind it up keeping the wires parallel and not crossing. Don't worry too much about spacing at this point as you will touch up later. When you get close to the end, just put the cap over the bolt and twist up the slack on the bottom connections. Remove cap and tweak into desired shape.

You should end up with some like this.



Check for shorts including the bottom wire touching center post. Symptom will be the mod will keep saying shorted atomizer.

Good luck and let us know how it goes.

 

[EmDeemo]

That was the original one that burnt out.

New one is working damn fine, just had to move the screen up a bit to keep it away from my plier-less coil Will find the pliers tomorrow and do a better job. This is much more stable than the first cuboid I had. And I've learnt loads taking the eraser apart and building it back together. Your pics @Pipes are marvelously informative for rebuilding. Thanks!

EDIT: Ah, awesome! I shall follow those instructions tomorrow. Nice one.

 

[EmDeemo]

Well this is just amazing.

Due to my tendency towards using my vapcap with a d020, I kinda rip thru loads with it, and its kind of amazing for that but its a bit like doing spirits.

The way Im using the eraser is a lovely long vape. Im still using the coil from last night which is too small and coiled pointing the heat in one direction (if that makes sense) meaning too strong a draw and theres clear tunneling of the heat and the beginning of a charring, which would make me cross (charring cross) if it werent for me having a naturally slow draw when not using the d020

The ten second shut off is kinda perfect, just as my throat tickles towards a cough, the shut off tells me to stop

I'll still be rebuilding the coil as per Pipes instructions above. The way its set up at the moment, if I give it to someone and they mistakenly take a big rip, they're gonna combust. I dont think I could use this with water for now for the same reasons, but for me, atm, dry, its fucking perfect. A full load is lasting a long, long time. Temp stepping gently is awesome.

I love having been able to get into the guts of the eraser and see exactly what its doing, how its working and be able to take it apart and reassemble with relative ease. No sending it back for warranty every five minutes Its so disheartening to wait for something for ages and then have it break real quick and not be able to do a damn thing about it.

I've just realised my fave setting at the moment with my make shift coil is 0.61 ohms, 61 watts, and 160 degrees c Sadly, tcr is 185, ruining the theme I might change it to 160 simply because THATS NUMBERWANG!

EDIT TO ADD: Batteries are lasting for ages so far too.

EDIT 2: Domed the screen within the eraser so it def wont short the coil, so now the internal screen is sitting perfectly where it should as stock. Pushed the stem back to where it is at stock, much closer to the heater than I've been using all day. Reduced the temp to 145c. I can now draw as hard as I like and not scorch or even get near it. Batteries have lasted nearly 7 hours now of fairly constant testing. Taste is off the charts No coughing. I dont really care about clouds but they're there if I want em. Still incredibly impressed. Still got numberwang.