Nycdeisel

Well-Known Member
Wait, did you let it actually soak in the iso for a while before starting to scrub?
Let the batteries(not the top) soak in iso alcohol overnight and then go to scrubbing, and maybe use a bit of Goo Gone(let the Goo Gone sit for just a couple minutes first) after if you need to.

as far as I know, all the batteries come with glue, why I dont know.
 
Nycdeisel,

Lo

Combustion free since '09
I too got some of the old Powerex that peeled easily but they don't send them that way anymore. The ISO soak...goo gone or wd40 methods mentioned are really the best ones but if you are really sensitive to the cleaning process you may be better off just ordering more stock batteries from BlissSville as they will come already cleaned/peeled. The stock batteries they use now are good batts.
 
Lo,

Vitolo

Vaporist
I agree.
I just ordered one more backup pair of the new stock Powerex that come with the box... I am that hapy with their performance. :)
 
Vitolo,

greystr0ke

Well-Known Member
shortwind said:
Okay. Here's my battery cleaning saga. I first tried rubbing alcohol on the peeled, but still very very sticky Maha 2700 batteries I just got. Barely made a dent in the goo. Next I tried WD 40...barely worked, plus the fumes were too strong for my severely asthmatic lungs to handle. Today I bought some Goo Gone and used large amounts of it....with A LOT of scrubbing with both a plastic knife and a scrubber sponge was finally able to de-sticky the batteries. It was more project than I wanted to do! As I noted in my previous post, in the past, the Maha 2700s peeled easily and did not have sticky residue left behind.

These are Powerex batteries. Anyone know of a reliable 2700 Maha type battery that peels easily without sticky gunk left behind?

I am vaporizing to minimize the irritation to my hyper-sensitive airways. I don't want to defeat the purpose by breathing in a lot of nasty solvents in order to ready the batteries for use in my lovely little MFLB.

Maybe Magic Flight has some suggestions?

Thanks!

P.S. Yes, acetone is very hard on my type of lungs...so did not even try it or have it on hand. I don't wear nail polish because I cannot handle the fumes from the polish or the acetone to remove the polish.

I literally just went to Batteries Plus to get new Powerex's and I'm having the same issue. The last ones I bought here peeled right off but these are a complete nightmare right now.
 
greystr0ke,

magicflight

Manufacturer
Manufacturer
Seek said:
Surf Monkey said:
I'm simply questioning how much IR effects the operation of the box and how exactly the IR is brought into play. Given a more detailed explanation of the IR characteristics of the MFLB my curiosity would no doubt be satisfied.

FAQ said:
Has Magic-Flight ever tried increasing the area of contact between the screen and the herb?
Yes, they have. Extensively. It turns out that the shape, size, and angles of orientation all matter. A lot. Surprisingly, these additional aspects make the surface area of contact factor one somewhat less important in the overall design. Certain dimensions have more to do with time rate of change in the degree of criticality due to the specific angles of enclosure as seen from different points in the chamber. It is more of an IR effect than a surface of contact effect. This sort of esoterica can quickly get rather complicated to explain.

Hi,

We stand by our claim that IR effects play a significant part of the overall effectiveness of the design. How significant? At least 25% in regards to the heating and more than 75% in terms of the temperature stabilization. While it is not the majority effect for the heating, it is very important for the overall function and makes more than a noticeable difference in the overall utility of the device. If the Box depended only on conduction characteristics, it would be unusable.

In regards to explanation, as mentioned previously, it has a lot to do with the shape and structure of the emission surface and the enclosing chamber as well as the specific materials chosen for its construction. The main concern is to utilize IR effects to create a zone of criticality in the middle of the load without *also* inducing thermal runaway (combustion). This is NOT a trivial problem! Your intuition is correct in observing that conduction by itself has no way of solving this problem and that the local resistance to airflow is slightly too high for convection to be of much help in this regard. Unfortunately, to really understand the way in which this problem is solved using IR effects in the Box involves more than a little calculus. Several important variables change simultaneously (energy delivered, thermal resistance, time rate of change of accumulated temperature, etc) making direct analysis more than a little difficult -- well beyond what I am going to attempt to explain here. It is in the balancing of these changing variables that success is achieved.

If you are really interested, and presuming that you know enough about the electrical and battery theory aspects, the main ideas for understanding the important IR effects are to 1) understand the means by which the inverse square law is derived (so that you know how to overcome those effects in the near field) and 2) the Stefan Boltzmann law (critical to overall temperature stabilization). In short, for those who understand these sorts of things, the overall pattern is fairly obvious, and it makes more than a little sense to consider the Box an IR performance enhanced device. Without having used these tools, the Box would simply not work very well -- it really does depend on its IR characteristics.

-- Magic-Flight

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stefan–Boltzmann_law
http://www.britannica.com/EBchecked/topic/564843/Stefan-Boltzmann-law
 
magicflight,

greystr0ke

Well-Known Member
Got the glue off the Powerex's by taking a paper towel, drenching it in ISO and then wrapping it around the battery. I let it sit for a few minutes and then I starting twisting the paper towel and most of the glue came off. Once the battery was dry, I just rubbed the rest of the glue off with my finger and then wiped down with more ISO. What a pain in the ass that was
 
greystr0ke,

wake n blake

A Weed Nerd
Just got my three new glass stems in the mail. Had to wait a whole 2 days ha.
I also ordered an extra set of rubber bands... and I'm happy that I finally got the thick bands that actually hold the lid in place. When I ordered my mflb kid a while ago, I just got 2 regular rubber bands, not these thick, sturdy behemoths. Woo hoo.
 
wake n blake,

greystr0ke

Well-Known Member
Good god almighty. I guess my old Powerex's were a few trenches off from being completely worthless. I very impatiently waited for one of these new batteries to get charged and a few hours later I'm to the moon. :ko:

I wish I would have bought these sooner. I was not used to that much power anymore so I very quickly realized I needed to draw a lot faster then I was used to. I can't even remember the last time that I almost scorched a trench like that.
 
greystr0ke,

weedemon

enthusiast
i use the rubber band that you get on a bunch of broccoli. serves me very well! and comes in funky colors :p mine are blue
 
weedemon,

Surf Monkey

Well-Known Member
Excellent explanation. Thanks for posting it. You answered all my questions and more!

magicflight said:
Seek said:
Surf Monkey said:
I'm simply questioning how much IR effects the operation of the box and how exactly the IR is brought into play. Given a more detailed explanation of the IR characteristics of the MFLB my curiosity would no doubt be satisfied.

FAQ said:
Has Magic-Flight ever tried increasing the area of contact between the screen and the herb?
Yes, they have. Extensively. It turns out that the shape, size, and angles of orientation all matter. A lot. Surprisingly, these additional aspects make the surface area of contact factor one somewhat less important in the overall design. Certain dimensions have more to do with time rate of change in the degree of criticality due to the specific angles of enclosure as seen from different points in the chamber. It is more of an IR effect than a surface of contact effect. This sort of esoterica can quickly get rather complicated to explain.

Hi,

We stand by our claim that IR effects play a significant part of the overall effectiveness of the design. How significant? At least 25% in regards to the heating and more than 75% in terms of the temperature stabilization. While it is not the majority effect for the heating, it is very important for the overall function and makes more than a noticeable difference in the overall utility of the device. If the Box depended only on conduction characteristics, it would be unusable.

In regards to explanation, as mentioned previously, it has a lot to do with the shape and structure of the emission surface and the enclosing chamber as well as the specific materials chosen for its construction. The main concern is to utilize IR effects to create a zone of criticality in the middle of the load without *also* inducing thermal runaway (combustion). This is NOT a trivial problem! Your intuition is correct in observing that conduction by itself has no way of solving this problem and that the local resistance to airflow is slightly too high for convection to be of much help in this regard. Unfortunately, to really understand the way in which this problem is solved using IR effects in the Box involves more than a little calculus. Several important variables change simultaneously (energy delivered, thermal resistance, time rate of change of accumulated temperature, etc) making direct analysis more than a little difficult -- well beyond what I am going to attempt to explain here. It is in the balancing of these changing variables that success is achieved.

If you are really interested, and presuming that you know enough about the electrical and battery theory aspects, the main ideas for understanding the important IR effects are to 1) understand the means by which the inverse square law is derived (so that you know how to overcome those effects in the near field) and 2) the Stefan Boltzmann law (critical to overall temperature stabilization). In short, for those who understand these sorts of things, the overall pattern is fairly obvious, and it makes more than a little sense to consider the Box an IR performance enhanced device. Without having used these tools, the Box would simply not work very well -- it really does depend on its IR characteristics.

-- Magic-Flight

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stefan–Boltzmann_law
http://www.britannica.com/EBchecked/topic/564843/Stefan-Boltzmann-law
 
Surf Monkey,

CutePanda

Well-Known Member
Vessel said:
I don't think so, but it would be nice if that where the case. I think I just suck at using it. I wish I could find out, maybe send it in sometime ?

I know what the battery push back ring is, I actually took that out. What I am talking about is actually behind the wall that the cooper rod lays up against. There's a cavity, or open space with " a carbon filterish type foam" in there. By inserting the end of the brush in the hole people here call useless, I can here it, and faintly see it w/ light shining..

Warning: this is not the push back ring :lol:

I'll start off by saying that it took me about 5 months to figure out that I had a MFLB that was running cool. I was running the power adapter on the highest setting and not achieving combustion until the 10 second mark. Anyways, I got a new box last week and it's working how it should.

1. Watch this video and see how bright your light is getting. Now it won't get nearly as bright as his because he has the power adapter, but still it should get bright if your box and your batteries are working like they should.

http://www.youtube.com/user/MrJDSupreme#p/a/u/1/ZFNXuDd4vb8

2. Try watching the vapor build through the plexiglass before taking each hit. Count the seconds and if you accidentally combust you'll know how many seconds it took and hopefully avoid combustion again.

3. My original Imedion 2400 stock batteries are currently in break-in mode so I'll have an idea of how bright the light gets when they are done and be able to report back to you using JDSupremes video as a reference.

Magic Flight has awesome customer service, so if you can't find your solution here definitely contact them. Best of luck too ya.
 
CutePanda,

Seek

Apprentice Daydreamer
So it works like I've mentioned? I know it can sound simple to some people, but also I know it actually is not simple to design efficiently at all. I get it how every shape in the box can play it's important role.
How ingeniously it's designed. If other conduction vapes have this IR effect, they simply don't have it optimalized this well, so it's insignificant there. Also as I see, the emmision energy is fourth power of the temperature, so only a little higher temperature does a difference. And I think MFLB runs hotter, than other conduczion vapes.

This is how I think the heat distribution is done:
heatdistribution.png
 
Seek,

Kingston

Member
hey guys, long time lurker here :)

so far i'm loving my mflb and i even ordered the pa.
i got a notice that it should have shipped on 16th June but no further notice from either the post or customs.
I'm a little confused about this as i read here that people in the UK got it in 5 days.
I have a desktop vape but after watching almost all of vitolos mflb related videos (Thanks man you're great!!!)
i have to test the pa.

Anyone from germany here who ordered or already got the PA?

Another thing is the Bubbler from dealetxreme, i ordered it around the 13th and the status hasn't changed since (Status: On 6/13/2011: Waiting for Supplier) anyone ordered it at the same time and already got it?

Thank you all for this great thread i get up to date every morning just like with a newspaper for vaping :)
 
Kingston,

treecityrnd

Active Member
nedvaper said:
Does anyone know whether any of these batteries (from Thomas Distributing) don't have a goo on them:

Lenmar 2700 mAh
Sanyo 2700 mAh
Nexcell 2700 mAh
Delkin 2900 mAh

Or should I "stick" with MAHA? :(

Any other suggestions (type of battery, place to order them) would be greatly appreciated.

My bro the electrical engineer (and remote control car freak) tells me that nothing can rate above 2700mAh or its fake. I've got some Duracell 2650s that really rate at like 2500 max in the C9000. I went back to the Powerex.

However, my bro says the Lenmar batteries are real 2700s. Can't speak to the others.

king said:
i get up to date every morning just like with a newspaper for vaping

+1, we need a rss feed or a forum app (like XDAs) for FC junkies.
 
treecityrnd,

vapirtoo

Well-Known Member
Hey JD Supreme!
I often use batts instead of the PA just for the conveinence of
moving around. Whenever my batts are better than my PA,
I know it is time to retighten the switch button on the end of
the cylinder! Currently my switch is so tight that it doesn't
click , and I have to keep checking to see if the unit is really off!
I love my beta unit , but that loose switch housing, and the
heat build up that occurs is a cause for concern.
I see that you retired your old vapir 5.0. I still use mine
as a party vape. The LB is my daily driver, and the taste is
still awesome!!! :ko:
Many people just refuse to take the time to master this little
vaporizing gem!
 
vapirtoo,

Abysm

Member
Would having earwax or some hash be a bad idea with the launch box?
It seems to work the best with kief...
 
Abysm,

Sour Deez

Active Member
Vitolo said:
vapirtoo said:
Many people just refuse to take the time to master this little
vaporizing gem!
True, and all we can do is feel sad for them! :(

Tell me about it. My buddy put the LB down and took his bong out almost right way, didnt even give it a chance really. So next time I busted out the SSV, and he still had the nerve to put the wand down and go get his bong. I indulged in some tokes and just felt lethargic and retarded, but not a good retarded.
 
Sour Deez,

Vitolo

Vaporist
On a positive note, I was just at a meeting with members of the AZ Cannabis Society...
Using batteries only, the box made it's rounds through 7 1st time users... in primo condition... and all were impressed, and all asked for a weblink! :)
 
Vitolo,

chimpybits

Well-Known Member
Just wanted to add another thumbs-up to the legion of happy MFLB users. I picked mine up a few days ago at the local head shop. (1 model prior to the current ball bearing one I believe).

My initial impression had to do very much with aesthetics. I think it is beautiful (and likely near perfect) design. I immediately loved it when I saw it online - much more so that any other vape. It reminds me of the little wood pipes my carpenter friend (best friend) make when I started out with mj at the tender age of 12. So, there is also a sentimental fondness also felt. I love smart, straightforward design using cheap, humble materials. It represents to me a state where pure functionality (no frou frou) achieves beauty.

Then my next impression had to do with its use. This thing rocks. i find it simple to use and a fun, satisfying experience. I'll probably pick up the OEM grinder and devise a carrying bag or whatever. Otherwise, it is perfect. Myself and a couple of friends (both vape noobs) got feeling very fine on 2 nights each only with the standard 2 batteries.

hmm hey as anyone posted their carrying solutions for this? I recall someone mentioning eyeglass cases ... People wanna post?
 
chimpybits,

Vitolo

Vaporist
vatrao.jpg

Vatra "Rocket" model. 3.95 at a local headshop.
(The bag that comes with it is what I used for a long time, and still do sometimes)
I've seen other neat ideas through the thread.... this has been posted before.. but to see them all you will need to thumb bacwards!
 
Vitolo,
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