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The HI

Discussion in 'Plug-in Vaporizers' started by Alan, Dec 10, 2011.

  1. biojuggernaut

    biojuggernaut Snob

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    Max, I am using the standard AC cord now, last night and every time it combusted. Even the AC from the video was a 12v from Underdog. Since the lip(bowl) is so large/thin it is easy to smash broken material in there enough to restricts air flow and super heats to combustion temperature. So im gonna try with smaller nuggets should solve the problem.

    Also not to sound like whiney bitch reporting everytime I combust a bowl either; just providing critical feedback.
  2. max

    max This space available Staff Member

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    8,952
    I'd still like to know why you'd want a tower that runs as hot as the HI, since that one seems to run too hot for you. Do you just like a really high temp, but want to be assured that it stays just below combustion? If so, you'd be much better off with a vape that has a temp control.
  3. biojuggernaut

    biojuggernaut Snob

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    Its that fact that the heat exchange is there to stop the silicone. You would understand right off the bat if you owned an UD and the HI. It is all how leisurely the the lip fits on the bowl. The UD 'lip' is thick and the heat exchange lay close behind. All while the HI 'lip' is think and extremely hot! Two different beats but the UD tastes weird to me. Just wish that screen was more supportive like a heat exchange to stop me from getting herb in the 'lip'/'island'. Hope this helps Max, I have a horrible way with words and editing as you've noticed :freak:
  4. Alan

    Alan Master JedHI Manufacturer

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    878
    I'm not sure how bio is getting his HI to combust. I have not been able to do it myself.
    Are you getting fire and ashes combustion bio? Does it happen when you use the power supply that came with the HI?
    I have noticed that the roasting tube will continue to produce vapor for a while after the HI unit is taken away. The herb mass continues to produce vapor until it is cooled down with fresh air.

    Well, I made another tube variation. This one has a 3/8" ss tube slid onto a short piece of 5/16" ss tube stuck into a 3/8" poly tube. The 3/8" ss tube is tight against the poly tube.
    A 5/16" screen is pushed down into the 3/8" ss tube until it stops at the 5/16" tube which is about 1/8" beyond the poly tube. A 3/8" silicone sleeve is pushed over the ss tubing with 3/8" of silicone beyond the 3/8" ss tube.
    The silicone tubing provides a seal and alignment to the center tube. Since the center tube is also 3/8", the tubes come to a hard stop. This prevents the silicone sleeve from pushing down on the outer debris screen and also limits how close the heating element can get (temperature) to the material being roasted.
    The new tubes also fit right into a 14mm glass joint.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
  5. biojuggernaut

    biojuggernaut Snob

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    ^perfection! Did I send you my twenty?
  6. SirTokesAlot

    SirTokesAlot The Dank Knight

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    Would you say that the airflow is good in the newer tube? How's the SS turbo tube coming along?
  7. Alan

    Alan Master JedHI Manufacturer

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    878
    Thanks for the payment bio. Lets talk tubes. Send me an email.

    SirTokesAlot - The airflow is very good in the new tubes. A bit better than the new Toasty Tube even though they have the same open area at the screen. The bowl can hold more roasting material. An all metal Turbo Tube just doesn't get the seal that you get from the silicone. This tube is kind of the best of both styles.

    I have noticed that the amount of roasting material placed into the tube can have an impact on how well it roasts. If too much is placed in the tube, it won't get enough airflow and the taste is affected. I put no more that 1/4" of material above the screen. The old tubes limited how much material could be placed into them. Only so much heat can build up in the mass of material. It is a fine balance between mass of material, finess of grind, moisure / oil content, and airflow. All these factors change during the roasting process. It becomes more of an art than a science. Holding the temperature constant takes one variable out of the equation. It is hard to build up too much heat when you have good airflow. This really applies to any vaporizer. It is all about the airflow.

    Getting some more wood HI bodies made today. Heating elements and the internals are ready to go.
  8. max

    max This space available Staff Member

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    8,952
    Good questions. I'd like to see an answer to that, and I think that Alan deserves one. I've never combusted even with my SSV, even with the temp cranked way up, despite the fact that some say it's easy to do. I have vaped hot enough, while testing on the high end, to turn the ABV black in spots. But I got no smoke, just really harsh vapor. No smoke-no combustion.


    Nice. Do you have plans to use this system with a glass tube as well?
  9. biojuggernaut

    biojuggernaut Snob

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    I'm sorry Max: I HAVE disrespected you in the past for being an 'over-zealous' moderator but to say that have never combusted with your Silver Surfer is BS but doesn't mean its not possible! I have combusted with the SSV, DBH and VHW BECAUSE I over pack a lot. .

    I have fixed the problem of combustion with turbo tube by puting a glass (screen) flower above the resistor then a screen overtop to make it more like the UD. No combustion since :D :D :D :D.

    Cant use the original stainless tube however =( . it got too charred and was too small any ways.


    SOOO ALAN your gonna need to regulate how deep the silicone goes down I would suggest a washer, maybe a wood bumper to stop it around the outside of the heater. 1/4 of protrusion into the stem should do the trick for flower. The bumper should be removable to clean and drop the HI Silcon stem lowwer to get oil hits and to clean the screen. Glass tubes that are tapered thick and and GonG compatible would be cool. ALL of while you've already done!! :tup: :science: Email me on progress.
  10. pakalolo

    pakalolo RoboMod v3.17 (ticking) Staff Member

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    I'm not sure what you meant here but to me it looks as though you're calling max a liar for something he never said. That's how I read it anyway. You might want to clarify that.

    Also, how do you know you had combustion? Was there flame? A cherry? Just smoke? Tell us what the remains looked like.
  11. OhTheAgony

    OhTheAgony here for the chicks

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    2,906
    Location:
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    I've put 1,5gram through a SSV daily for about 8 months or so, and I too found it really hard to combust with one. Not impossible, but hard. It happened only once with mine, and that was on the first night I tried it with water and was taking a really long bong hit at the end of a bowl on a reasonably hot setting (3 o'clock). It was the only time I used the handsfree adapter like it was meant as well. When it happened I did get a pretty large flame though, twas a real bitch to clean afterwards.

    Getting a bit off-topic perhaps, but I felt like adding my :2c: to the conversation.

    I'm very curious about this little hot running log vape btw, but really dislike the use of silicone in the stems. Are there any options to use it without silicone or do you always need a bit of it with this new kid on the block?
  12. biojuggernaut

    biojuggernaut Snob

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    Cherry. Orange. Fire. Smoke.

    I have combusted with my DBV if that isn't possible with SSV then I guess not. I had a SSV in high school and go it to combust.
  13. Abysmal Vapor

    Abysmal Vapor Shaman of The Pyramid of Orlin'Malah

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    +1
    Have to add that combusting made my whips stink and that made me vaporizers who are very hard to combust..
    I've heard people managing to combust in their MFLB to be added :).
  14. havock69

    havock69 Well-Known Member

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    139
    I've combusted countless times in my ssv, and I hate the taste it leaves ib the wand/tubing. Thats what makes this vape so appealing. It's noob friendly.
  15. biojuggernaut

    biojuggernaut Snob

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    Now not so there, Alan has many ideas! Maybe even a closer screen will do the trick. Good thing I could a big unit; i'll just fray my AC cord a little :p!
  16. SirTokesAlot

    SirTokesAlot The Dank Knight

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    25
    I have a question regarding log vaporizers in general. Is it okay to keep the vaporizer hot and idle with a tube filled with herb in it?
  17. Abysmal Vapor

    Abysmal Vapor Shaman of The Pyramid of Orlin'Malah

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    IDK about vapes health ,but you will definetly degrade your herb that way.
  18. SirTokesAlot

    SirTokesAlot The Dank Knight

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    25
    So I should take the tube out between every hit? Sorry, I'm completely new to log vaporizers, haha.
  19. Abysmal Vapor

    Abysmal Vapor Shaman of The Pyramid of Orlin'Malah

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    Location:
    7th heaven - 666th pit
    Well not after every hit .. But i wont leave it there if i am not intend to hit it in next 1-2 minutes :).
  20. SirTokesAlot

    SirTokesAlot The Dank Knight

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    25
    Ahh, alright, thanks for clearing that up with me, haha.

    I'm super interested in these Alan, any idea when your next batch is going to come out? Also, do you think it's a good idea to have a lower voltage AC power cord in case one would like the HI to run at around 365~385 degrees?
  21. psyshaman

    psyshaman Vapor Viking

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    Down Under
    Your products might be in huge deman shortly Alan with the PD camp cracking it with FC and the world. All the log manufactures will get a boost in sales.
    Hope the development of this great new vape is coming along nicely... The anticipation is increasing rapidly
  22. SF Giant

    SF Giant Reluctant vape collector

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    Location:
    NorCal
    I like the idea of a lower voltage psu, 450 is a bit higher than id normally prefer. As a side note I have never combusted in my SSV........but my girlfriend has :mad: had to soak my tubing for hours to get the nasty taste out
  23. Alan

    Alan Master JedHI Manufacturer

    Messages:
    878
    I'm hoping to get a batch mostly finished by next week. They are taking a little longer since I have to invent the manufacturing process as I go plus designing new tubes. I am also trying some that are a bit taller and have a 90 degree plug adapter so that a straight plug power adapter will work.

    Lowering the voltage would give lower temperatures. However, I prefer to mix room air to get lower temperatures. I make a poor seal with the tube at first. Slow roast and enjoy. The high temperature is there for later in the roasting when all the tasty low temperature oils are gone.

    The 450F temperature is what my temperature probe indicated when it was in direct contact with the ceramic heating element. I'm not certain of the actual air temperature. I just mix air to get what I need.
  24. biojuggernaut

    biojuggernaut Snob

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    Location:
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    well its causing my shitty hydro to combust. Can you recomend a voltage adjuster?
  25. Foster

    Foster Well-Known Member

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    TV-

    Just sent you an email! :D

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