The Extreme-Q Vaporizer

OF

Well-Known Member
@OF The EQ is the PC of vapes. Otherwise it might suit you.

At some point, I will look at the PCB and get to know the electronic 'brain' that sorts out the temp control, fan speed, etc. IR communications being another area. :peace:

Thanks, I don't doubt it a bit. The length of this tread is mute testimony to it's popularity, although portable threads for vapes like Solo as long or longer, representing their fair share of fans. In fact, one could argue that the original Solo (up to two years or so back?) which allowed 'true PA' was in fact a corded vape when you plug it in. It's just that, in general, vapes like this, Volcano, and so on don't really appeal to me. Perhaps something like the 'big trout on light tackle' guys, to me having to finely manage power, insulation, materials, packaging and so on to make a successful unit is half the fun. Everything there is a compromise, you can't pretend you're Apple (like IMO corded vapes tend to be as opposed to PCs) and 'power your way through' tight spots. Kind of cheating in a way, and it ties you to a half a circle of about 6 foot radius in general, I tend to wonder around some as you might guess.

How such things work is really pretty simple (then again most things are once you understand 'the big picture'?). Not always easy to see and identify, but pretty logical generally. Temperature, for instance, is done 'closed loop'. Like the cruse control in your car or home thermostat. Temperature is sensed (called the 'process variable' because it's what you vary to control the process....) and compared to the ideal (called 'setpoint'). And error signal (difference in values) is used to use the control element to effect a change in the right direction for the process variable. It checks the temperature and turns on the heat if it's too low. Like the home thermostat. In the cruse control the tailshaft speed is measured (usually by time it takes to do each revolution) and that number compared to the setting. Scaling is done for the humans so settings look like degrees and MPH but from the electron POV it's just numbers (or the values they represent). To measure temperature analog (continuous range) is used. Typically a 'thermistor', a resistor that changes value with temperature, is used. They come in all values, typical ranges at 'working levels' are say 1000 to 10,000 Ohms. This is converted to a voltage which is 'input' to the computer through a single pin. The same computer 'reads' the buttons and here the IR input signals to determine the setpoint after using an internal 'analog to digital converter' (A/D) to determine the temperature. The answer to the 'turn up the heat' decision is a yes/no thing (digitial) affair to 'heat or coast' until the next sample. Stuff is programmed in so it doesn't get locked in a yes, no, no, yes now, maybe no trap, giving modest 'deadbands' to the actual regulation. A more refined output is to allow for rapid on/off changes and average them over time, proportional control. So like your car throttle it doesn't slam on and off but works over an analog range (D/A). HA and Ascent come to mind here. Sometimes, in mains powered units like EQ this is done by timing against the power lines. Since the current stops and reverses directions 60 times a second (or 50 if you drive on the wrong side of the road.....), wait a variable time (in degrees of all things) after reversal then turn on.....and stay on until the current stops and reverses again. You 'use' some percentage of ever 1/60th of a second. Or rather the machine does.

This, 'chopping up the power line' is most likely how the fan works. A single output pin on the computer linked to the power 'switch'. Like a light dimmer in your house. Special (means cheap) devices called 'zero crossing detectors' make the timing easy, reliable, and 'cost effective' (that means cheap too).

Displays are done 'a bit at a time' usually, try waving a vape around in the dark........

IR controls are just one computer chatting with another. Or maybe one shouting at the other who never answers? They flash simplex (one way, like a paging system) 'Morse code' of sorts (their own language, go figure). Like ships in a war movie, only one way only. In a color of light we're not allowed to see (but your digital camera probably can.....try it). To improve 'signal to noise ratio' (think picking a singe voice out in a crowded room) they typically go slower and flash more often in what's called 'modulation'. The receiver (in the base) does some modest optical filtering but then looks for that modulation signal to 'lock onto'. Looking for that magic tone. And reporting when it sees it or not as the 'intelligence' which is again 'read' into Mister Computer as a single digital bit stream through a single (digital) input pin. Easy if you're building them. This is 'test/decide/act/test again' cycle is typically done at like 40,000 times a second kinda rate.....plenty of time if you're an electron. And instantaneous to those of us pushing the button.

Another neat part is the transmitter can shut down (no battery drain) between uses.
Pretty cool, really. A lot of clever guys worked it out for us. That's very cool.....

And you need a power supply, of coarse. All in all prolly better to just buy one? Not to discourage you in any way of course, by all means to crack it and poke around some. I'm just guessing.......

Regards,

OF
 

Stevenski

Enter the Dragon
In fact, one could argue that the original Solo (up to two years or so back?) which allowed 'true PA' was in fact a corded vape when you plug it in.

If I had known that when I purchased my EQ in Jan 2013 I would have gone with the Solo straight up as the deciding factor was "battery downtime". What can I say I was ignorant of a lot of things & only purchased the EQ as it looked a lot slicker than the DBV or HA & they were/are the big 3 when it comes to a cheap desktop.
 

Oldvape53

Active Member
I now can show all my friends how to easily vaporize hash, butter, shatter, oil, bud, roach remains, using the eq. A buddy of mine had a mound of pot roach remains and hash... I showed him how to vaporize it and get blasted... winner! Still blasted now... Always keep a bag of Japanese organic cotton on hand for pure hash, or butter or oil. Easy for me as I do ecigs with rebuildable coils.
Edit: Please let people know, that with organic cotton, you can easily vape putty hash, oil, shatter, butter ect, depending on temp, and forced fan setting. With a fairly solid putty hash for instance, use fan #3 and 250c. With a good butter, 230c and no fan. Use a good Japanese cotton like muji or koh gen to sandwich the concentrates.
Edit 2: Use a very thin layer of muji ect, to allow max heat flow. Will allow for huge hits!
 
Last edited:

CuckFumbustion

Lo and Behold! The transformative power of Vapor.
This, 'chopping up the power line' is most likely how the fan works. A single output pin on the computer linked to the power 'switch'. Like a light dimmer in your house. Special (means cheap) devices called 'zero crossing detectors' make the timing easy, reliable, and 'cost effective' (that means cheap too
Displays are done 'a bit at a time' usually, try waving a vape around in the dark........
I am aware of the display's refresh rate being a factor. When I had a bad PCB problem. The display would 'wash out' when ever I ran my EQ on fan 3. I would have to power down the unit and unplug it for a duration for it to come back to normal. That makes more sense to what I was experiencing and the possible pin out that you were describing earlier.
The IR controls and the one way communication is even simpler than I imagined. This will help me when I decide to study the chipset on the board.

I like my EQ and trying to not be tetherd to it as you mentioned.:D And save the battery powered vapes for when I leave that 6 foot comfort zone.
A lot of my experience with the EQ has helped my get with all the things needed to successfully extract my materials and that has carried over to getting better performance with my portables. Which couldn't be different from each other. BTW. :peace:
 

TheSaddestShitIsImBadAsIt

Well-Known Member
Making good use of the 2nd chamber

sPILtCA.jpg
 

MinnBobber

Well-Known Member
Hi,
I'd like some help with this part---for possible use on a project/ not in an Arizer.
1. Does the end with the wire basket happen to fit like a 14 mm male joint or an 18 mm male? EDIT: is it a 14 mm or 18 mm male joint?
2. What size tubing snugs on the other end? The Arizer ads I find don't list the size. Big ass like the SSV tubing or more traditional smaller tubing, what ID?
Thanks


vp-az-aea-product-001_ad7e7720-18eb-4bb3-97b8-43cf56ec4a31_large.jpeg
 
Last edited:

MinnBobber

Well-Known Member
@kellya86 ,
I think you answered #1, that it is meant to fit an 18 mm female SO it must be 18 mm male profile, correct? That's the most critical side as I can buy tubing to fit as needed.
It's just so weird because my EQ baskets don't fit into my OregonGlassBlower 18 mm male joints. Too tight by a "smidge". Maybe the OGB glass has thicker glass walls??

8 mm ID---thank you


Do you mean can a 14mm male fit inside the 18mm male??? like some weird porn that I don't want to see...

No glass porn here, just doing doing cross-dressing, I mean cross-shopping to customize some other projects ;)
 

Dr. Soxhlet

SOLO Vaporized Cannabis is my Best Medicine
@OF The EQ is the PC of vapes. :peace:
That statement is close to the mark. The fan looks like a fan from a laptop and the IC board has all the code that make the EQ do what it does. It really is amazing when you think about it. Functions controlled by a remote. Cool if someone writes an app for that, a cell phone would be harder to lose than that little remote.
 

CuckFumbustion

Lo and Behold! The transformative power of Vapor.
So like your car throttle it doesn't slam on and off but works over an analog range (D/A). HA and Ascent come to mind here.
Ascent is known for keeping consistent accurate temps. So I've read. So the Ascent and HA use proportional control which has some algorithm or formula to go by. Where the EQ...
Sometimes, in mains powered units like EQ this is done by timing against the power lines. Since the current stops and reverses directions 60 times a second (or 50 if you drive on the wrong side of the road.....), wait a variable time (in degrees of all things) after reversal then turn on.....and stay on until the current stops and reverses again. You 'use' some percentage of ever 1/60th of a second. Or rather the machine does.
So the 'pulse' of the AC has it's effect on the timing as opposed to say a closed loop that relies on an internal clock tick.
That statement is close to the mark. The fan looks like a fan from a laptop and the IC board has all the code that make the EQ do what it does. It really is amazing when you think about it. Functions controlled by a remote. Cool if someone writes an app for that, a cell phone would be harder to lose than that little remote.
Plus you could create more complex routines and timer controls schemes. Could have one setting that preheats the bowl on a timer setting then changes to the desired temp. As long as the phone was already facing the EQ to give it more than one instruction in order. There are some generic IR apps that are programmable. I never tried an old TV universal remote. But with the phone you can match what signal corresponds with the associated 'key' press.

Now I would like to bring together all that. plus what we already know is happening underneath the hood of the EQ. Use a little algorithm or equation that calibrates, compensates or at least co-indices more with it. (Thanks for more insight into that again. @OF.) So your remote settings will reflect more accurately the heater's output. The 200c on the EQ is more true to 200c. You could also have your own personal shut off timer.

Another avenue is an IR repeater. Then you can have more control over the signal. and perhaps have a hardwire connected to the IR. Some are usb driven. If any of them accepted data. Well.... you see where I'm going with this. :science:
 

OF

Well-Known Member
So the Ascent and HA use proportional control which has some algorithm or formula to go by. Where the EQ...

So the 'pulse' of the AC has it's effect on the timing as opposed to say a closed loop that relies on an internal clock tick.

Plus you could create more complex routines and timer controls schemes.

For more information on Proportional Controls, look up it's 'full name' "PID" for (Proportional-Integrate-Derivative). Proportional we've discussed a bit (analog rather than digital, a range rather than on or off) the other two terms are the same as used in Mathematics. Such systems either have values programed into them or can 'learn' from starting points to respond quickly but not overshoot.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PID_controller
http://www.csimn.com/CSI_pages/PIDforDummies.html

Again, I don't have a EQ so I don't know what system they use, but obviously PID is not mandatory to making good vapor.

I apparently wasn't clear enough, timing an output to the mains lets you simply get a proportional control by simply taking a percentage of the available time per cycle. It has nothing to do past that, a convenience. It has nothing to do with 'closed loop' (that is where, like with temperature, you look at the result and modify the control. Open loop, like the fan speed, doesn't do this, it just puts out an estimated value like a home lamp dimmer. Not all closed loop systems have a clock. Not even all digital ones do (there's 'clocked logic' and the straight Boolean kind. Clocked systems tend to be more stable as they get complex at 'propagation delays' (time needed to make decisions) can be a problem sometimes. There are even closed loop systems that use no electricity at all, the Honeywell commercial HVAC systems are a good example (the ones with the little thermostats that hiss softly sometimes?). They run on compressed air and are all analog through the actuators that open and close vents and stuff.

FWIW the first computers in widespread use were also all analog. Including WWII stuff like torpedoes, bomb sights and targeting computers. Next time you watch a submarine movie check out the huge computer on the bridge.

A guy could in fact make a fun accessory like you suggest for EQ fairly easily I think. Use the IR channel and a 'learning remote' to send a series of commands. Some small controller, like the Arduino series could 'push the buttons' for you. Arduino is attractive in that it's intended for non skilled novice users like Artists. Very easy to program with lots of support. Very little knowledge in Electronics or Computer Programing needed. Lots of tutorials and examples and support groups. Be kind of fun, if you're into that kinda stuff. Like this example

http://makezine.com/2016/02/27/arduino-leds-transform-your-fan-video-game-display/

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arduino
https://www.arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/HomePage

OF
 

Nugg

Well-Known Member
@CuckFumbustion sorry for the late reply about cotton and hemp fiber.

I use both. Just depends on what is closest to me at the time. I think I prefer cotton though. Hemp fiber seems to crumble after I vape it where as cotton stays intact.

This is the hemp fiber filter I had in a long 18m/14f reducer that I use with my solo. I vape at level 7 90% of the time so it's hi temp reclaim/wand hash.

eUid5PE.jpg


Cranked the EQ up to 245c and vaped the filter. Ddave shorty and wand.

XtnoHMV.jpg


It didn't have that spicey flavour reclaim normally has. It was also a lot more uppy than I thought it would be. Got heaps of yard work done lol.
 

sickmanfraud

Well-Known Member
Hi,
I'd like some help with this part---for possible use on a project/ not in an Arizer.
1. Does the end with the wire basket happen to fit like a 14 mm male joint or an 18 mm male? EDIT: is it a 14 mm or 18 mm male joint?
2. What size tubing snugs on the other end? The Arizer ads I find don't list the size. Big ass like the SSV tubing or more traditional smaller tubing, what ID?
Thanks


vp-az-aea-product-001_ad7e7720-18eb-4bb3-97b8-43cf56ec4a31_large.jpeg

Not sure what your project is, but I think this piece is less fragile:

https://www.vapornation.com/silver-surfer-water-filtration-adapter.html
 

CuckFumbustion

Lo and Behold! The transformative power of Vapor.
Again, I don't have a EQ so I don't know what system they use, but obviously PID is not mandatory to making good vapor
Well I do have a hunch that it is closer to the 'pulse' of the AC current. Also you widened my view of available systems in a vape and any device that has current or compressed air. Anything that can be measured by time is a candidate. Not planning to grab a soldering gun and changing things around on my board just yet.:lol:
But the Arduino and other Rasberry Pi options look attractive for that and other projects.:brow:
@CuckFumbustion sorry for the late reply about cotton and hemp fiber.
I got some hemp and used it in my main glass wand setup if you caught my earlier post. Used it like a ragmop on all my hard to clean glass and a drop of ISO. Sifted all the heavy particles from my ISO soak jar. Ragmopped the particles in a glass cap. Soaked the ISO up with the reclaimed ragmop. Put it in an elbow had clean tasting reclaim with a hemp finish at my normal 200c. Whitewalled my Glass Warhammer a few times over. Worth a second take this week.:brow: Will see how available Japanese cotten is available locally. Hemp fiber is $1 worth that can be wrapped around a Bic lighter.
 

Kalessin

Well-Known Member
I'm sure it's been covered before but just searching "wax" didn't turn anything up, so, anyone want to share good methods for using wax through the EQ? I'm gonna be getting some soon for the first time and I've got a few ideas, but hearing some user verified methods would be awesome
 

Tjmobus

New Member
Hey there guys recently picked up an extreme Q, any tips on how to get strong hits? I elbow pack it for the whip and use it on 195c but it doesn't seem to be doing much.
 

kellya86

Herb gardener...
For a stock eq with elbow pack, start at 210, your herb is a long way from the heater..

Also make sure you preheat everything for 10 mins at 210 with fan 1...
Then when you load the basket with your herb(not to loose or tight), wait a few mins to allow the herb to soak some heat, should see some condensation in the elbow, then take a long slow draw...
Should make a huge cloud if your herb is capable....
 

Tjmobus

New Member
For a stock eq with elbow pack, start at 210, your herb is a long way from the heater..

Also make sure you preheat everything for 10 mins at 210 with fan 1...
Then when you load the basket with your herb(not to loose or tight), wait a few mins to allow the herb to soak some heat, should see some condensation in the elbow, then take a long slow draw...
Should make a huge cloud if your herb is capable....
Thank you so much! I'm starting it up now and about to try it out! I can get back to you and let you know how it is! I appreciate the detailed and speedy response!
 

Dr. Soxhlet

SOLO Vaporized Cannabis is my Best Medicine
Hey there guys recently picked up an extreme Q, any tips on how to get strong hits? I elbow pack it for the whip and use it on 195c but it doesn't seem to be doing much.

Use a higher temperature and consider getting a Ddave kit. I use it at 220 with the regular Ddave setup and D020 bubbler.
Haven't used the elbow anymore, except at the water pipe end. I found the oil condensing at the bend would clog quickly compromising the performance of the EQ. The large diameter of the Ddave or similar wand plus shorter F/F adaptor makes the EQ into a powerhouse. I never need to elbow pack either, since it works so well just loading in the smaller F/F adaptor. Much less cleaning of all parts this way.:tup:
 

Justpassedu

Well-Known Member
I'm sure it's been covered before but just searching "wax" didn't turn anything up, so, anyone want to share good methods for using wax through the EQ? I'm gonna be getting some soon for the first time and I've got a few ideas, but hearing some user verified methods would be awesome
I have tried it two ways in the Eq both have worked pretty well. 1st grab a mighty or crafty liquid pad , they are not expensive , preheat eq and drop it in the Cyclone or DDave at a higher temp , fan speed 1 helps to heat things up a bit and drop your wax on that liquid pad , the other i have used was same method but using Japanese organic cotton and putting my wax in it and shoving it in the elbow. Both methods worked for me , some may have better methods on the forum and chime in. It does work with Wax but keep in mind this vape was mainly designed for herb so it will not hit as well as opposed to using a nail for wax but it can be done.
 

Kalessin

Well-Known Member
using Japanese organic cotton and putting my wax in it and shoving it in the elbow.
This is basically what I'm planning on right now...I have a bunch of degummed hemp fiber, so I figure I'll take a tiny piece of wax and wrap it up real good and stick it in my ddave wand end. I thought about layering a bunch of screens on top of each other in the ddave adapter itself, but I feel like if the wax did melt through it could really gunk up the inside of the heater...
 

Justpassedu

Well-Known Member
This is basically what I'm planning on right now...I have a bunch of degummed hemp fiber, so I figure I'll take a tiny piece of wax and wrap it up real good and stick it in my ddave wand end. I thought about layering a bunch of screens on top of each other in the ddave adapter itself, but I feel like if the wax did melt through it could really gunk up the inside of the heater...
Yeah i would not try the layering of screens method , only for the fact it could drip. I highly suggest grabbing a mighty liquid pad as they work in a # of vapes. Hemp fiber should be ok also although i heard it crumbles up sometimes , not sure as i have never used it. I got a vapexhale cloud evo on the way to me and they have developed a glass nail that is inserted into there vape for wax , would be cool if someone can come up with something like that for the eq. It may even be able to be done with the vapexhale nail and some glass adapters but i wont be sure until i have it all in my hands. Id say drop your wax on when its hot weather it be on the hemp , cotton or liquid pad i mentioned and wait until you start seeing some vapor coming off it , when you see that start hitting it slowly. Some like to sandwich wax in herb and make a sandwich and vape that also.
 

Kalessin

Well-Known Member
Yeah i would not try the layering of screens method , only for the fact it could drip. I highly suggest grabbing a mighty liquid pad as they work in a # of vapes. Hemp fiber should be ok also although i heard it crumbles up sometimes , not sure as i have never used it. I got a vapexhale cloud evo on the way to me and they have developed a glass nail that is inserted into there vape for wax , would be cool if someone can come up with something like that for the eq. It may even be able to be done with the vapexhale nail and some glass adapters but i wont be sure until i have it all in my hands. Id say drop your wax on when its hot weather it be on the hemp , cotton or liquid pad i mentioned and wait until you start seeing some vapor coming off it , when you see that start hitting it slowly. Some like to sandwich wax in herb and make a sandwich and vape that also.
I am considering picking up a liquid pad, I just hate spending money on shipping for such a small item. The hemp does get a bit crumbly toward the end in my experience, but I have enough to last me years, so I just toss it afterward anyway. I have a friend who offered me a ecig battery with a wax attachment to use when I got it, but I really do want to avoid smoking...
 
Top Bottom