vapen00b

Many vapes & accessories. Always happy to help
I just need a portable that can hit me as hard as my Nano or my LSV...Maybe I just require a Mighty or a GH or Zion...

Yeah, I love my Air,too! And I like to sip it.
Try a FW3 - it's my kinda Air with convection. Sip it, great taste, hits damn hard... Be sure to attach a longer mp or a wt. you'll be blowing clouds like a dragon... And mostly be too smacked then.. So careful ;)

As much as I like other vapes (mostly convection ones) I do appreciate it big time to just relax and takin the time for a nice recreational Air session. I read it almost everywhere how fast this or that thing can extract... Honestly, I think it's a good thing if it takes time, quality time.. And since the Air is very efficient when it comes to amount of material it's all good. Take your time for nice things in life. Vaping should not be a rat race. (Of course it's my humble opinion and I'm not a medical user that needs quickest possible pain relief!)

:peace:
 

AJS

Calm Consistency
Try a FW3 - it's my kinda Air with convection. Sip it, great taste, hits damn hard... Be sure to attach a longer mp or a wt. you'll be blowing clouds like a dragon... And mostly be too smacked then.. So careful ;)
I hear a lot of mixed things with the fw3. Would love to hit one right next to an AAir and compare. If only life were that simple.
 

beiberhole69

Sexual Maven
I just noticed there is some discoloration (rust-brownish) on the + end of the battery (the one that came with it)... is that normal?
 
beiberhole69,

MeditativeMind

*Insert 'custom title' here*
pissin on the floor, if that's what you're into!

That's awesome man... maybe we can go to middle schools together.

:rofl::lmao::rofl:

here's my battery gnar:
http://imgur.com/a/RXp5c

My battery did get a little wet... and it looks like the red from the coating may have bled onto the white part.

Yup definitely looks like it's corroding. I would probably stop using the battery, especially if you have a second one.

The corrosion could ruin the leads in the device itself. And although it's highly unlikely, have you ever seen an 18650 explode? Not a pretty sight.
 
MeditativeMind,
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Spocks_Katra

Well-Known Member
Actually I don't think any of those changes have been reported? The charger being different is really strange to me, but who knows. Is the battery still the same? Is the top seal on the oven the same?

Any chance it's a counterfeit?

Sorry for so many questions, TIA for any insights.

OF

I have a relatively new one, I can confirm the scoop on the tool and the LED colors, white looks pink, yellow is orange, etc, but I didnt notice any other changes they mentioned
 

OF

Well-Known Member
Yup definitely looks like it's corroding. I would probably stop using the battery, especially if you have a second one.

The corrosion could ruin the leads in the device itself.

I don't see it, then again I'm color blind...... And I have never had trouble with seeing corrosion.....so in the general sense:

The contact in Air is Gold plated, it's not subject to corrosion for that reason. Tut's mask hasn't needed polishing in the first 4,000+ years for that reason. I wouldn't worry about it. If you want, wipe it down with a damp q-tip, I'd do water first followed by ISO?

There is not a leak from the battery, IIRC the fluid is not corrosive in the normal sense and has a strong solvent smell. To function the cell has to be 100% sealed, a breech and internal pressures will blow the solvent out.

If it concerns you, you should by all means replace it. It's a small price to pay for peace of mind. But FWIW I don't see anything that bothers me.

I have a relatively new one, I can confirm the scoop on the tool and the LED colors, white looks pink, yellow is orange, etc, but I didnt notice any other changes they mentioned

Thanks for the update. FWIW there is no white or yellow (or orange for that matter) leds. It's a RGB (Red, Green, Blue) deal like your monitor and color TV. 'All the colors of the rainbow' are made by mixing them. IIt seems pink, I assume, because the current batch of LEDs is redder than the last? Otherwise, such changes are easily changed in software, much like color tint is adjusted in fact.

OF
 

Spocks_Katra

Well-Known Member
I don't see it, then again I'm color blind...... And I have never had trouble with seeing corrosion.....so in the general sense:

The contact in Air is Gold plated, it's not subject to corrosion for that reason. Tut's mask hasn't needed polishing in the first 4,000+ years for that reason. I wouldn't worry about it. If you want, wipe it down with a damp q-tip, I'd do water first followed by ISO?

There is not a leak from the battery, IIRC the fluid is not corrosive in the normal sense and has a strong solvent smell. To function the cell has to be 100% sealed, a breech and internal pressures will blow the solvent out.

If it concerns you, you should by all means replace it. It's a small price to pay for peace of mind. But FWIW I don't see anything that bothers me.

OF
agreed,

I believe they use a protected cell, which would release chemicals to halt the power output process in case of failure, Im pretty sure the battery would expand from the heat and then stop working.
 

OF

Well-Known Member
I believe they use a protected cell, which would release chemicals to halt the power output process in case of failure, Im pretty sure the battery would expand from the heat and then stop working.

Actually it's not a protected cell, all the protected ones I tried are too long to work (the added thickness of the protection PCB) and many were too fat (the conductive strap up the side under the jacket) to fit anyway. Not that that part really matters here I guess.

As I recall loosing fluid from the cell lowers it's ability to supply current to a useless level. They still read normal voltages (will fool meters), but cannot put out the juice on demand. Heat induced shorts (or short induced heat I guess) is another matter entirely, it can boil the fluid (think bomb) and dump amazing power, melting stuff (guarantying the short will continue.....). Think starting fires. All in all pretty festive, really.

OF
 

Spocks_Katra

Well-Known Member
Actually it's not a protected cell, all the protected ones I tried are too long to work (the added thickness of the protection PCB) and many were too fat (the conductive strap up the side under the jacket) to fit anyway. Not that that part really matters here I guess.

As I recall loosing fluid from the cell lowers it's ability to supply current to a useless level. They still read normal voltages (will fool meters), but cannot put out the juice on demand. Heat induced shorts (or short induced heat I guess) is another matter entirely, it can boil the fluid (think bomb) and dump amazing power, melting stuff (guarantying the short will continue.....). Think starting fires. All in all pretty festive, really.

OF

Oops, I guess I spoke too soon. thanks for the info thats good to know if I need a replacement
 

MeditativeMind

*Insert 'custom title' here*
I don't see it, then again I'm color blind...... And I have never had trouble with seeing corrosion.....so in the general sense:

The contact in Air is Gold plated, it's not subject to corrosion for that reason. Tut's mask hasn't needed polishing in the first 4,000+ years for that reason. I wouldn't worry about it. If you want, wipe it down with a damp q-tip, I'd do water first followed by ISO.

Had no idea they were gold plated. That's good to know!

agreed,

I believe they use a protected cell, which would release chemicals to halt the power output process in case of failure, Im pretty sure the battery would expand from the heat and then stop working.

The stock 18650 does have a protection chip and is vented to prevent things like short-circuits, reverse-polarity, under-voltage, etc. and if anything goes wrong, it will leak out as much acid as possible. However, that does not mean that it cannot catch fire or explode. Looking at the Air itself, it doesn't look like it is vented. Working with e-cigs I've seen a lot of protected 18650s explode in unvented mods. The chances are extremely low compared to unprotected 18650s but better safe than sorry.

Now I could be wrong here. It might not even be protected. The protection could just be with the Air itself. In which case, 'better safe than sorry' holds stronger.
 

OF

Well-Known Member
Had no idea they were gold plated. That's good to know!

The stock 18650 does have a protection chip and is vented to prevent things like short-circuits, reverse-polarity, under-voltage, etc. and if anything goes wrong, it will leak out as much acid as possible. However, that does not mean that it cannot catch fire or explode.

Yep, Gold on the spring, spring loaded contact pin and mating surface on the PCB in the cap as well. Solid design, no cut corners. Not much Gold, really, but it's a surface game, seal the surface and what's under it is safe. IIRC the thickness is measured in 'micro inches' (millionths).

They are NOT protected in the normal sense of the term. Protected 18650s have a 1.5mm or so thick PCB on one end or the other, some shims, a second wrap and a conductive strap up the side between the wraps. By industry parlance these are unprotected cells, the protection being built into the main board.

There is an overpressure 'blow out disk' common in all such cells but otherwise they are 100% sealed. You can usually see this by peaking under the positive terminal. You see a spike pointing down? That punches a hole in the diaphragm under it if the pressure builds too high. It's designed to vent before enough pressure builds to rupture the jacket proper ('weakest link') like freeze plugs in your car's engine block. This is, of course, destructive.

Gas venting is part of solid design. In this case you can see the tube for the battery is open inside (you can see the bottom of the PCB). Gas goes up that way and out the vents in the cap. If the rubber jacket is on it I bet that adds to the fun.

OF
 

beiberhole69

Sexual Maven
hey guys... any of you make stem milk? I find it's awesome with my all glass tube... but with the plastic tip, which I use more and more, it kinda doesn't work all that well. I could be mistaken and there's just some gunk I have to scrape but it's getting most of the goodies... but it seems like the milk just has a hard time getting in through the stem and getting the job done. The 2 times I've done it I had to soak it in ISO immediately after AND scrape the inside rim with a paperclip with the last lil cm or two bent to a hook.
 
beiberhole69,

Stevenski

Enter the Dragon
I have a relatively new one, I can confirm the scoop on the tool and the LED colors, white looks pink, yellow is orange, etc, but I didnt notice any other changes they mentioned

I can third that with my Air.I got my Air in August 2015 if that helps but it has been bulletproof so far.

The Air gets used as a potency tester for all batches of weed I receive as I find it a heavy hitter in it's own right. I enjoy using it so much dry I have not reordered my GonG after breaking it but I have one in my basket waiting to be finalized.

I would have been better in some ways to order a Solo as I tend to use a battery or two each evening & the Solo has more settings. That said with 3 batteries I am not wanting & when I do travel I like the Air's size.

After 6 months of daily use I am more impressed with the Air now than I was the day it arrived.


hey guys... any of you make stem milk? I find it's awesome with my all glass tube... but with the plastic tip, which I use more and more, it kinda doesn't work all that well. I could be mistaken and there's just some gunk I have to scrape but it's getting most of the goodies... but it seems like the milk just has a hard time getting in through the stem and getting the job done. The 2 times I've done it I had to soak it in ISO immediately after AND scrape the inside rim with a paperclip with the last lil cm or two bent to a hook.

I have done bad things to myself under the influence of stem milk. The kind where you wake up still fucked in the morning & see a trail of food & wonder what the fuck happened. After vaping a stem in the Air it retriggers things & I would be very stoned until mid afternoon.

I had a Friday night ritual in winter of cleaning my EQ elbows & Air stems in a saucepan of milk & cream (I always add cream for extra fat). After 15-20 minutes of stirring the milk gently on a low heat the stems should be pretty clean. Then you can add the chocolate or I quite like adding a couple of shots of espresso & making a flat white coffee.

Just thinking about it makes me want to make one tomorrow & I am craving a cigarette more than I have in some months as I would have a couple of cigarettes with my coffee & settle in for the ride. I have the dirty glass but do I have the courage to do it? I have started reading a book called the Hasheesh Eater from the 1850's. It is giving me very bad ideas when it comes to powerful edibles so some filthy stem milk is called for to cure my ailment.
 
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bluenavey00

Arizer Air Aficionado
I guess I'll just keep stirring and be patient then. *shrug* Gonna take some before and after pictures in the light to see the difference. It's almost solid golden amber now.

http://imgur.com/45eWPgE

just gonna make coffee/and eat cookies and get shellacked tomorrow

Do you (or anyone else) find you loose efficiency when the stems are that gunked up?

I personally feel like they do but it could just be placebo. In my mind the more gunked up the stem is the more vapor gets stuck to the inside and never reaches your mouth?
 

beiberhole69

Sexual Maven
In the sense that airflow gets more restricted so more effort is required to extract... but I don't feel like I get less stoned from a dirty vs clean stem
 
beiberhole69,

Bravesst

Full Steam Ahead
Manufacturer
after many, many stems, some clean, some not so much. I see an improvement in every category with a clean stem / screen.
Efficiency
Effect
Taste
Draw Resistance

I have countless stems, so I don't clean often, but when I do, it's like laundry day. Recently, I've been trying to stick with 3 or 4 stems, then clean, but I get lazy. :zzz:
 
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