OF

Well-Known Member
I think someone here had put the battery in the wrong way and got a red light.... Not sure I remember correctly though!

Naw. How would you have power to light the LED (with the correct polarity)? It stays dark, just like no battery at all.

A charger, with it's own power source, might give a clue. But not the Air itself, it has no power to run on.

And yes, I just tried it to be sure.......

OF
 
I also remembered someone had a different issue, emailed Arizer and there's some form of soft reset you can do on the air.

If the above advice doesn't work contact Arizer.


Thanks guys. I already contacted Arizer but have yet to hear back from them. I just took a multimeter to my wall adapter and I'm reading between 2.8 and 3vac when plugged into the wall. The adapter claims to have an output of 5volts so maybe I just have a bad wall adapter? Can someone throw a meter on one of their known working adapters and tell me if you are reading 5v or 3 like mine?

^ A wealth of knowledge!

One more day for my Air stem from Ed it looks like. Cant wait. Hoping it makes it in time before we leave to the woods Friday to camp a few nights. Tomorrow would be excellent.

I break glass. This should be a nice increase in durability.

You don't have to worry about breaking glass anymore but be extremely careful as the metal heats up a hell of a lot hotter than the glass piece. I've burnt myself really bad a couple times now with my Ed's stem that I'm almost scared to use it these days.
 

UnshavenFish

Well-Known Member
Welp looks like that might be my problem.

If you have more than one battery an external charger is always handy to have around, lots to choose from and reasonable prices, I'm not saying to forget about your wall charger but you could probably get one quicker than a replacement from arizer :shrug: and more charging options is always a good thing.

Oh and just a maybe pointless afterthought, have you checked the battery in your multimeter? Or checked other things with it as I have had some strange readings when battery was low (in dmm)
 
UnshavenFish,
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OF

Well-Known Member
I just took a multimeter to my wall adapter and I'm reading between 2.8 and 3vac when plugged into the wall. The adapter claims to have an output of 5volts so maybe I just have a bad wall adapter? Can someone throw a meter on one of their known working adapters and tell me if you are reading 5v or 3 like mine?

Five Volts is correct, same as USB ports. However it's DC not AC. Trying to read AC on a DC supply with a DMM can give all sorts of answers depending.

Are you sure it's AC? Have you tried DC?

Actually, not that I'm proud of it, but I am the one who put a battery in backwards and freaked out cause I got a blinking alternate red and yellow light.

No sin, but I think you're mis remembering something. There's no way the LEDs actually light with reversed polarity, that's how electrons work and all. Electrons only make light flowing from Cathode to Anode. The Anode has to be more positive than the Cathode or no current flows through the Light Emitting Diode (LED). Diodes, by definition, only conduct 'one way' (which is why they're used as rectifiers to change AC to DC).

I just tried it again with a different Air. No funny lights there either. Same as the rules of electricity I was taught (and in return taught others.....) dictate. Reverse polarity can in some cases (if it's high enough) damage semiconductors but generally it can't make them start conducting backwards without permanently damaging them. And with the possible exception of a flash when the bonding wire 'blows' in that failure, no light at all.

Can you reproduce this strange effect? I can't.

TIA

OF
 

TommydCat

Well-Known Member
No sin, but I think you're mis remembering something. There's no way the LEDs actually light with reversed polarity, that's how electrons work and all. Electrons only make light flowing from Cathode to Anode. The Anode has to be more positive than the Cathode or no current flows through the Light Emitting Diode (LED). Diodes, by definition, only conduct 'one way' (which is why they're used as rectifiers to change AC to DC).
It'd be ill-advised for Arizer's engineers not to account for the user inserting a battery backwards. A few cents of parts and it's simple to add logic that would recognize a reversed current and still be able to flash the LEDs as a warning.

Reversing the polarity of a DC source doesn't instantly reverse all current within a circuit. In some parts of some circuits, the current may still flow the correct way! (See "bridge rectifier" as a prime example [ahh! your diodes at work!]).

That said, manufacturers don't like adding extra "few cents of parts" unless they need it. A user-changeable power-source that can look ambiguous to polarity - I'd imagine they at least ensured it wouldn't release the magic smoke....
 

OF

Well-Known Member
It'd be ill-advised for Arizer's engineers not to account for the user inserting a battery backwards.

Reversing the polarity of a DC source doesn't instantly reverse all current within a circuit. In some parts of some circuits, the current may still flow the correct way! (See "bridge rectifier" as a prime example [ahh! your diodes at work!]).

Yup. They can either protect/design around the issue or be ready to replace a LOT of units under warranty if it's a problem for the device. No Bean Counter worth his salt would let it happen the other way. This is definitely a feature tested many times in any serious Beta testing effort as part of that process.

You're right, it doesn't instantly run current the other way. It happens at the speed of light, but it takes time. In reality it's usually a high fraction of SOL due to stray inductive and capacitive effects (same as happens in transmission cables) but it human terms it's next to instant if not there. That's what current is, the net flow of electrons (they're always moving all directions anyway). In order to get the electron through the P-N junction you need a "forward voltage" (to supply the pressure) of about half a volt for typical parts. If we make that P-N junction of the right stuff that voltage rises until there's enough energy in that electron 'going through the barrier' to emit a photon (make light). Shorter wavelengths (like blue) take more energy since their photons contain more. Vf might be say 3.5 Volts or so for blue, where 2.2 will make red. !.7 or so for IR (lower energy per photon still). Electrons from cathode to anode (only). Those rules are pretty well established.

Full Wave Bridges have four diodes, they work in pairs. On pair on (conducting), the other off (blocking) depending on polarity. Current is always the same way through any diode in the set. That's what diode means.

Current (flow of electrons) no more happens 'backwards' (against the voltage pressure) any more than water in the hose flows backwards into the city water supply when you open the valve. Electrons run only minus to plus (for practical purposes), light only happens with LEDs when you provide appropriate currents in line with the physics involved. I know no way to light an LED under such conditions as reversed battery (OK, really a cell.....).

Again I see no light at all trying it, as I would expect. Putting the battery (cell) in backwards just gives you dark and silence for your troubles?

OF
 

TommydCat

Well-Known Member
Again I see no light at all trying it, as I would expect. Putting the battery (cell) in backwards just gives you dark and silence for your troubles?
I'd count that to be working as intended - not fancy, but the alternate is getting smoke when expecting vapor! :doh: (And thanks for assuming the risk to verify that condition :clap:)
 

OF

Well-Known Member
I'd count that to be working as intended - not fancy, but the alternate is getting smoke when expecting vapor! :doh:

Amen to that one! 'Well, that didn't work?' beats "AW, SHIT!" every time. Given enough time guys are going to try the battery backwards.......

I am concerned about heat transfer to lips and hot vapor.

I would not be. Glass is a lousy conductor of heat. The all glass stem for Air:
http://arizer.com/store/en/arizer-air-parts-accessories/107-air-all-glass-aroma-tube.html

is much shorter and has no heat issues in either Solo or Air.

Depending on how you drive it, the vapor can be hot of course, but IMO that's not a stem related issue as much as technique.

OF
 

bluenavey00

Arizer Air Aficionado
Amen to that one! 'Well, that didn't work?' beats "AW, SHIT!" every time. Given enough time guys are going to try the battery backwards.......



I would not be. Glass is a lousy conductor of heat. The all glass stem for Air:
http://arizer.com/store/en/arizer-air-parts-accessories/107-air-all-glass-aroma-tube.html

is much shorter and has no heat issues in either Solo or Air.

Depending on how you drive it, the vapor can be hot of course, but IMO that's not a stem related issue as much as technique.

OF

Defiantly down to technique.

I don't really get a heat problem. But many of my friends have with the all glass Arizer stem. I've told them not to suck as hard but at the end of the day there is no 'right' way to use a vape. Down to personal preference.

Also depends how long your sessions are, if you have a few puffs then turn it off you won't have any issues. But if you have 2 / 3 bowls (20-30 mins) back to back you may get a heat issue, again depending on how hard you suck and for how long each puff is.

One of the best thing I did was to buy a Solo stem for my air. I love the cooler vapour I get, the top never even gets warm.
 
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Bravesst

Full Steam Ahead
Manufacturer
Defiantly down to technique.

I don't really get a heat problem. But many of my friends have with the all glass Arizer stem. I've told them not to suck as hard but at the end of the day there is no 'right' way to use a vape. Down to personal preference.

Also depends how long your sessions are, if you have a few puffs then turn it off you won't have any issues. But if you have 2 / 3 bowls (20-30 mins) back to back you may get a heat issue, again depending on how hard you suck and for how long each puff is.

One of the best thing I did was to buy a Solo stem for my air. I love the cooler vapour I get, the top never even gets warm.
Do all solo stems work with rhe Air?
 

Ashish

Active Member
Hi guys, just wondering if anyone else has noticed that their Air "ticks" in a constant yet arrhythmic fashion as it's heating up to its set temperature? Mine has just started doing this recently after 3 or 4 months of constant silence. It has suffered no trauma (eg. dropping, knocking over, etc) that I can think of that might've caused this phenomenon to occur. Furthermore, the ambient temperature in the areas the unit is stored and used has not changed at all, so I don't believe it's simply the sound caused by the expansion of the metal heater component(s) as if this was the case it would've happened since "day one".
 
Ashish,
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Bravesst

Full Steam Ahead
Manufacturer
Shawn I think you have uncovered one of the main reasons behind this throat burning effect, namely that my home-grown bud, though ostensibly dry to the stem-snapping stage, is almost never cured, since I generally harvest in such modest quantities that I simply "speed dry" the herb up in the loft where the intense dry heat extracts all noticeable moisture in just 3 to 4 days at most, whereupon I proceed to fire it up in joints, or extract the TCH into coconut oil to use in baking cookies whose effect is purely sedative, with zero psychoactive payload.

I must say that I am somewhat relieved to learn that the throat burning effect I experienced has been noted by at least one other user of the Airizer Air, because I was starting to suspect that perhaps I was already coming down with some respiratory ailment, and that my use of the Airizer was merely coincidental, but not actually a causative factor behind my discomfort.

Reading about your familiar persistent throat issues even when using longer stems, bubblers and shorter hits, I am beginning to suspect that a very tiny minority of new vaporizer users MIGHT be genetically predisposed to throat irritation regardless of the amount of vapor conditioning that is employed to prevent such, and that unfortunately, I fall into that small percentage who might ultimately be forced to revert back to combustion or edibles as the ingestion vehicle of choice.

My primary reason for venturing into the vape world has been the stealth aspect that frees me up to vape at home without that tell-tale stench of burnt bud hanging in the air for a half-hour afterward, with the health benefits of vaping being the icing on the cake. Now, in light of my experience thus far, and also taking into account your own observations encompassing the use of longer stems and bubblers to minimal effect, I am having a serious re-think about whether or not to subject my overly-sensitive respiratory system to further vaping experiments.

That being said, I do intend to eliminate that final variable in the equation, by now setting aside most of my "dry" bud for a nice long cure in preparation for one final foray into the vaping world in a couple of months when the bud is well and truly cured. In the meantime I will revert to edibles to prevent the usual insomnia that sets in when I cut out toking altogether, and of course I will continue to lurk in this forum to learn as much as I can about this device that I am still determined to use with appropriate precautions once the curing process is finally complete with my stash.

Once again I thank you kindly for your contribution to this discussion, for I now at least know for sure that I am not suffering from some pre-existing respiratory ailment which only appeared by coincidence when I started vaping for the first ever time.

This bud's for you, brother.

40 year smoker and convert. At first I had major "dry" throat issues - with a variety of vapes. I "learned" how to vape, as I learned how to smoke. Inhale into the mouth, smaller sip for me (if possible), let it cool as it hovers there, and then swoosh it down with some cool air (the way I smoked). I'm not saying this is how you should vape, but play around with variables (vapes), sipping techniques, drying out, and anything you can think of, but especially personal inhale technique. I think that could overide almost any other variable (even on low settings, can make things hot or vice versa). I'm a newbie here, but smoked for years and had a very dry throat when first transitioning. Now, after developing my skills, it's gone. Good luck either way...
 
Bravesst,
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OF

Well-Known Member
Do all solo stems work with rhe Air?

Yep, at least mine do. Some tighter than others of course. My Ed's stem is tightest of all.

The very first Airs came with the straight Solo stem in addition to the two plastic topped stems (it was wrapped up with the case and rubber sleeve). Soon after the short all glass stem was substituted in place of the shorter plastic topped stem (the one with the 'shortie bowl').

Yeah I tried reading it on the DC setting and didn't read any voltage. Read 2.8-3v on the AC setting.

Sounds broke to me. Did it ever charge normally? Thanks for the information, it fits.

Sorry for your loss, hopefully you bought it from PIU or other top tier Dealer? Randy (at PIU) will get one out to you today if you got it from him.......

Good luck. It's worth getting going as you know?

OF
 

WoodVillain

Backwoods Rated
Such a Beauty!!

DSC02161_zpstu1fakkm.jpg


More pictures and first impressions in Ed's thread, here; http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/eds-tnt-wooden-vapor-tubes-vapor-stems.3342/page-158#post-809216
 
Sounds broke to me. Did it ever charge normally? Thanks for the information, it fits.

Sorry for your loss, hopefully you bought it from PIU or other top tier Dealer? Randy (at PIU) will get one out to you today if you got it from him.......

Good luck. It's worth getting going as you know?

OF

Yeah charged perfectly fine for a month. I got it from Massdrop . Arizer got back to me yesterday but I haven't heard anything back since sending in the info they requested. Hopefully they can expedite a new charger. Happy I still have my Solo.
 

OF

Well-Known Member
Yeah charged perfectly fine for a month. I got it from Massdrop . Arizer got back to me yesterday but I haven't heard anything back since sending in the info they requested. Hopefully they can expedite a new charger. Happy I still have my Solo.

That's good news, really. One option you might consider is buying a USB charge cable off EBay (few dollars shipped) and plug it into your computer, a 'USB power adapter' or 'USB auto adapter'. Again a few bucks shipped if you poke around EBay some. You could have a '3 way system' (mains, auto or computer) for ten bucks or so?

There's a fellow who posted a fresh link on the cables a few weeks back. He had one that didn't need trimming like some do (no big deal to trim IMO).

OF
 
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