Discontinued The 8 Herb Vaporizer for the Persei

jpdnkstr

Well-Known Member
Is there a way to measure your draw rate (inhale), maybe with a sensitive vacuum gauge?
 
jpdnkstr,

OF

Well-Known Member
OF are you usin a slow inhale or a fast one?

Yes. Both, actually. Too fast doesn't seem to work well at all, but after a certain point going slower didn't make for any heavier vapor. In general, I think it's pretty intuitive once it's running in that respect.

Is there a way to measure your draw rate (inhale), maybe with a sensitive vacuum gauge?

Not that way, but it could be measured. For what reason? What did you plan to relate that to? Do you do it? I don't and wouldn't have any idea what the numbers meant.

OF
 
OF,

OF

Well-Known Member
OK, time for a reset and to resume testing.....must soldier on you know....

Some scrubbing and ISO seems to have cleared most of the nasty smells out. It's really easy to use the 'auto dryer' function. Just run it with the top off for a bit. Easy. Don't forget how hot the top part gets like I seem to have done overnight.....lesson learned again.

I also just noticed another potential problem, battery fit. The threads on the bottom of the prototype are not 'THC standard' for some reason, the tube only barely engages the threads (less than one full turn on mine), this means the 'run it up to the shoulder' adjustment for battery length won't cut it. Something easy to fix on production units (provided it's noted....) but even when I use my 'take the play out and back it down 1.5 turns' system if you set it down too hard the spring compresses enough to the batteries break contact and the circuit isn't protected from such short drop outs and will reset (meaning go to the off state, fortunately). Even with the battery much tighter, this can happen. I'm wondering if this is what caused the run away last night? A partial reset, due to 'contact bounce'??? Microprocessors are subject to short reset issues, they can sometimes 'wonder off' and run code incorrectly. IMO the spring and fit issue should be looked into, but more importantly the design should be evaluated as a system. The electronics should be tolerant of brief drop outs and has to gracefully recover from drop outs it can't just blow past. Partial resets like seems might have happened to me are obviously dangerous.

Anyway, a bowl or two to be sure it's working then I think I'll poke a bit at how it got so cooked last night. Was the temperature control still active (or was the processor really wonked out)? If I set it to 330 degrees and set it down on the deck for a few minutes (like could happen in use) is it going to burn the load? I don't think it will. If it does, that could be an issue with users who pause for whatever reason. If it doesn't that clearly points to a processor failure.

More on the matter when I have something useful to relate.

OF
 

JoeKickass

Well-Known Member
OK, time for a reset and to resume testing.....must soldier on you know....

The electronics should be tolerant of brief drop outs and has to gracefully recover from drop outs it can't just blow past. Partial resets like seems might have happened to me are obviously dangerous.

I think a simple capacitor to hold enough charge to keep the lcd powered for at least a second would solve anything due to contact bounce...
 
JoeKickass,

OF

Well-Known Member
All you need to do is 'hold up' the processor part. Not the load, display or backlighting (which probably each take far more current). Otherwise you need a huge capacitor, it would take 2.5 Farads to hold up the unit for that second to within one volt drop. Not practical. The "right" solution (assuming this is the issue) is, however not that simple. Such systems need a 'hardware reset' that forces the processor to the base after the supply is stable and holds it there long enough for all the buffers and registers to clear. In a PC for instance, this signal (Power Made Good, AKA 'PMG') actually comes from the power supply itself. Normally this is done with a 'one shot' on the reset line to the processor, but that's a hardware issue. A software engineer is likely to miss such details as a hardware engineer is likely to miss software timing issues It's a system issue, and may actually be done right here. I'm guessing. But the resetting thing with modest impacts is real and repeatable.

Not my problem right now, I'm in the testing department......

Thanks for the thought.

OF
 
OF,

Sinclue

OK disagree with me, I can't force you to be right
OK, time for a reset and to resume testing.....must soldier on you know....

Some scrubbing and ISO seems to have cleared most of the nasty smells out. It's really easy to use the 'auto dryer' function. Just run it with the top off for a bit. Easy. Don't forget how hot the top part gets like I seem to have done overnight.....lesson learned again.

lol. You think you cleaned out a lot of oil? It was like mucking out the stables for me and that was after DubC had worked hard on cleaning it up. And you'll recall my first series I ran it up to 380-390. The first two cycles before I even loaded it I just left the top off and watched it smoke.

I never did get a heavy vapor pull. Very much like the Iolite or the MFLB in that respect. I tried as many ways as I could.

I got around the time-out by adjusting the temp up or down and back. And I was pretty lucky at getting it to say "OFF" and go blank(lots of rapid button pushing), but I also then unscrewed it and took out the batteries to let all parts cool down individually and faster. If you don't keep "goosing" it it will go to standby pretty quickly. A tap on any button brings the heater back online as indicated by the orange light. But in even the briefest standby the temp indicator indicated as much as a 30 degree temp drop. That happen to you?

Mine also didn't thread on completely, but more so than yours. Odd. I have a real old (relatively speaking) Persei (pre-serial number version) and it may be different somehow.
 

OF

Well-Known Member
l

I never did get a heavy vapor pull. Very much like the Iolite or the MFLB in that respect. I tried as many ways as I could.

I got around the time-out by adjusting the temp up or down and back. And I was pretty lucky at getting it to say "OFF" and go blank(lots of rapid button pushing), but I also then unscrewed it and took out the batteries to let all parts cool down individually and faster. If you don't keep "goosing" it it will go to standby pretty quickly. A tap on any button brings the heater back online as indicated by the orange light. But in even the briefest standby the temp indicator indicated as much as a 30 degree temp drop. That happen to you?

Mine also didn't thread on completely, but more so than yours. Odd. I have a real old (relatively speaking) Persei (pre-serial number version) and it may be different somehow.

Same with me, vapor concentration wise. It does the job still, but not very showy at all. I'm about to try adding some bubble, that usually thickens up the Iolite and keeps it going far longer as well. Can make the taste more fun, too. Lots of potential for testing there. And there's kief......

I've done some more playing with the functions, I figure the time out is about 6 minutes from last button press. If you watch carefully you'll note there's a lot of 'granularity' in the reading, that is lack of resolution. It dithers, for instance between 327 and 330 with nothing in between. That seems to say there's only 3 or so counts between 320 and 330, it may well not be possible to take five degree steps in the setpoint simply because the processor can't see the changes well enough. I'm also a little worried about the temperature offset. I don't think its a calibration issue, that stuff is a look up table exercise, the numbers are all well known. What may be happening is a sensor position issue? You can actually gauge the temperature inside your oven by measuring the temperature on the outside surface of the door. It will be lower than inside, but will accurately track the inside temp. However, and this can be very important, it's a thermo dynamics deal, heat is flowing. Open the window in the kitchen and it's all messed up. If, as it seems, the sensor reads the bowl temperature below the ceramic not inside where the herb actually is that could answer than riddle.

So I just did another test I think has merit. After finishing a bowl (maybe 4 or 5 minutes) I let it idle at 330 without any draw (like might have happened to me last night). When it timed out, I reset right away and let it run again. And again until it dropped. Close to 15 minutes total idle time. Clobbered the battery, one 2.7 Volts OC, the other a mere 1.76. The first took a minute or two for the charger to trickle it back up to 3 Volts or so and get recognized and start the actual charging cycle (change to red from green), the really dead one took about five minutes. This will give me a baseline on how long to fully charge at least.

It also seems 3 or even 4 bowls per charge is a good estimate?

Anyway, after baking for a while on idle the herb was cooked indeed. Plenty dark and uniform (meaning I think everything in the bowl was the same temperature which it should be), but none of it was a burned as bad as yesterday, nor was there any smell. I take this to mean that the unit last night was indeed running 'wide open' and didn't throttle back when it got to 330 degrees which severely burned the stuff near the center and alarmed me before the outside stuff got too hot. At the end of the run the display was just starting to loose contrast, nothing like be blank screen that I got last night when I tried to fire the processor up. And this was very marginal, I blew on the display for a few seconds and it went back to normal. I think last night it got at least as hot as it did for you when you were dialed up higher and went white in four or so minutes? It had to have been 'out of control' after having turned itself on with only a minor bump from me? Only it was only a partial reset it seems.

BTW, I also reset it setting it down too hard again, even though I have the battery up pretty snug. I'm watching for it now, it shouldn't interfere with testing. I also think the thread thing is a non issue, or at least can be easily resolved. It turns out if you take the fancy chrome ring off the Persei tube top the longer threads screw in just fine. As a guess, this is how it ended up threaded deep like this? For now I'm leaving the ring out, it's much more secure. The logo even comes closer to lining up....

More later when there is more. Thanks for doing the good work before me SC.

OF
 

Sinclue

OK disagree with me, I can't force you to be right
Interested in your findings when adding bubble or kief. I had considered that, but had to leave something for you. Also, if its main purpose is to vape herb then that’s what it should be able to do well all by itself...and then, if you want/need you can add stuff.

I noticed the display jumping around, but have never seen one stay locked on to a setting. Not sure I’d trust one that did since all sorts of things can influence a small temp change it seems to me. But it would make a 5º setting differential harder I guess.

I noticed a notch in the top of the heater rod that looked tempting to put a flathead screwdriver on it and see if it could be raised or lowered. I decided to leave it to you to test the wisdom of such an action. Tempted?

I thought three bowls for sure, then the fourth bowl crapped out on me. But then I didn’t allow it to idle so battery drain was probably greater.

What mouthpiece configuration are you using?

Shaken, not sitrred?

Be sure to keep a hotpad on standby. That way you can always do a quick unscrew if you can’t shut it down with the buttons.
 
Sinclue,

OF

Well-Known Member
Interested in your findings when adding bubble or kief. I had considered that, but had to leave something for you. Also, if its main purpose is to vape herb then that’s what it should be able to do well all by itself...and then, if you want/need you can add stuff.

I noticed the display jumping around, but have never seen one stay locked on to a setting. Not sure I’d trust one that did since all sorts of things can influence a small temp change it seems to me. But it would make a 5º setting differential harder I guess.

I noticed a notch in the top of the heater rod that looked tempting to put a flathead screwdriver on it and see if it could be raised or lowered. I decided to leave it to you to test the wisdom of such an action. Tempted?

I thought three bowls for sure, then the fourth bowl crapped out on me. But then I didn’t allow it to idle so battery drain was probably greater.

What mouthpiece configuration are you using?

Shaken, not sitrred?

Be sure to keep a hotpad on standby. That way you can always do a quick unscrew if you can’t shut it down with the buttons.

Initial run with half bubble, half herb very nice. Session was longer, and there were more hits with better density. As might be imagined. It had over twice the THC after all. I went outside into strong light and could definitely see what I was tasting and feeling. Still thin, I'm afraid, by many recreational user's standards. It's delivering the goods, not wasting it, but it's taking it's own sweet time to do so. I like that sometimes, but this is not shaping up well for the guy that wants to grab a few quick hits on the sly. Nor is it, I think, a party vape in any useful sense. What it does, it does fairly well I think at this point. You can load your herb in fairly loose (.3 grams or so seems about right), shake it a bit from time to time (easy to do with the filter removed giving extra space above the load) and put fresh batteries in every 3 bowls and all you should have to worry about is keeping the timeout from dropping the heater before you're ready.

I agree, concentrates are cheating in a way. We need information on bud only since many will be using it that way, but others have access to bubble and kief and we should therefore test it. DubC has taken care of the serious oil testing as only he can, really. .4 grams is a lot for a session.....

As to your questions, yes I think the steps are perhaps too big to ask for 5 degree changes. The system displays 318, 321, 325, 227 and 330 only. This makes it very hard for it to even find 325 separate from 330 degrees. The solution is false, really, you make it 'dither' between 320 and 330 but show you 325. Sorta does the same thing. But I agree with you, as built I'd pick 325 as 'ideal' and would like a step or two below and above it. Then again, Iolite does fine with a fixed value?

The notch is not a screw slot (at least I don't think so). It's kind of hand made to me, and is a common technique to protect vents. Notice the bottom of your omicron cart connector? The center pin is made that way for this reason. That's my take on it at least. Could be wrong but I'm not going to risk it, it's not important and it's not mine.

At 2.5 Amps for the heater, I agree with you, 15 maybe 20 minutes total run time? I'm using the only mouthpiece I know of but with the entire filter out if that's what you mean? Yes, on your lead I'm shaking it randomly with success, no way can I open it to stir anything when it's hot.

Tell me about panic unscrewing of the hot battery pack it went past me in a blur. I used my shirt tail, lucky I'm not a 'tucked' kinda guy. Must remember to not vape naked with this one until that part's resolved, right?

Science marches on.....

OF
 
OF,

Sinclue

OK disagree with me, I can't force you to be right
Tell me about panic unscrewing of the hot battery pack it went past me in a blur. I used my shirt tail, lucky I'm not a 'tucked' kinda guy. Must remember to not vape naked with this one until that part's resolved, right?

Be sure to keep a hotpad on standby. That way you can always do a quick unscrew if you can’t shut it down with the buttons.
 
Sinclue,

OF

Well-Known Member

I did, but it was out of reach. Remember, it turned itself on, I set the sucker down off and later smelled it?

The shit tail was more handy....I had useful options available. The other option is to pitch it into the bathtub and go to bed. Once the battery runs down it'll be easier to deal with.....people can be like that, too. Sometimes.

OF
 
OF,

THC SCIENTIFIC

To Boldly Go Where No One Has Gone Before
Manufacturer
I did, but it was out of reach. Remember, it turned itself on, I set the sucker down off and later smelled it?

The shit tail was more handy....I had useful options available. The other option is to pitch it into the bathtub and go to bed. Once the battery runs down it'll be easier to deal with.....people can be like that, too. Sometimes.

OF

Please dont pitch it anywhere, remember this is a hand built first prototype of anything, its gonna have its flaws.
 
THC SCIENTIFIC,

DubCRider

Well-Known Member
LOL, I got hit by my own "pitch" today......

I was showing a collective The Hammer and explaining how durable the new tops are. I show him my wobbly Persei top as I pass him the new top with Hammer attached. I show I'm a bending/prying motion and say, " give it a go!". Needless to say he broke my Hammer. It still works but separates from the threads.

Even when broken this stuff works!
 
DubCRider,

THC SCIENTIFIC

To Boldly Go Where No One Has Gone Before
Manufacturer
LOL, I got hit by my own "pitch" today......

I was showing a collective The Hammer and explaining how durable the new tops are. I show him my wobbly Persei top as I pass him the new top with Hammer attached. I show I'm a bending/prying motion and say, " give it a go!". Needless to say he broke my Hammer. It still works but separates from the threads.

Even when broken this stuff works!

The Hammer tops are unbearable to a degree, the hammers on the other hand different.
 
THC SCIENTIFIC,

OF

Well-Known Member
The Hammer tops are unbearable to a degree, the hammers on the other hand different.

I'm not sure that was the word intended? "Unbearable" might be some guys opinions, but I sure don't see it being yours???

OF
 
OF,

OF

Well-Known Member
The 8 continues to impress me, once I get past my prejudices and expectations and take it for what it is. It delivers the goods. Once some of the details are sorted out (hot parts mostly?) so things like trouble getting the top off hot and so on are no longer problems I think the vast majority of users will find it very easy to use routinely. That, I think, is the goal for many if not most medical users. "Big clouds" still allude me, but I still have some more testing time to poke some more there.

Looking carefully at the construction I'm now thinking the center post is SS (not aluminum like the bowl itself) and seems to be held by a nut on the stud end though the bottom of the bowl. The slot SC pointed to a while back may indeed be to tighten that nut? For whatever reason (temperature sensing or grounding issues?) it's electrically isolated from the body and bowl both. That has to be intentional I think. As is the bowl itself. The heater leads can be probed through the slots and show a resistance in keeping with the current reading I made earlier. Roughly 3 Ohms for 2.5 Amps and 20 Watts (about the same power level as Evolution and MFLB).

The bubble/herb load I ran yesterday came out dark and a bit sticky. Just like I'd expect from Iolite, perhaps a bit darker? It still hit weakly (went a very long time, the batteries took over an hour to recharge, 90 minutes is worst case) which makes sense given the much larger THC content. I'm sure putting the AVB in the HA will show some is left still, but I suspect it won't be much.

The unit is definitely hard to clean in this model. It will forever scream 'drug stuff' to any who take a good luck. Something you can soak (or hopefully boil?) would be a great improvement. Likewise, I find the extra space to allow shaking a good plan. When I ran a bowl without shaking until it slowed up it instantly came back to life when shaken. Some mixing seems important, it's not like HA or Iolite in that respect, but it's a long way from MFLB in several important ways.

IMO it's showing great promise, though perhaps not able to satisfy some users' wishes. If the Universe is indeed based on this heater assembly, it too has great potential for many it seems.

Anyway, batteries are charged, unit cleaned out, time to get back to the salt mines......

OF
 

OF

Well-Known Member
OK, a bit more 8 testing news for those who crave such stuff. I took it over to have a friend with a better pyrometer (IR temperature gauge) to try to get some readings that make sense, or at least more than I got with mine (which doesn't focus like his does). Near as we could tell the heat is being generated in the ceramic floor plate, 20 and more degree differences were read in various areas but the floor was hotter than the walls or the other aluminum parts. We also know from the burned herb in my run away adventure that the center post is conducting heat into the load as well and given air is introduced through it via the 5 ports it probably also serves a preheat function? A bit of random shaking along the way (no big deal) combined with a loose load seems to even things out very well.

This, of course, did present another chance for a user rating.....even two users, he provided a willing friend for the testing. Both were willing to help out and both think it's delivering the goods. They to think the 'big clouds' aren't there for the visual some want, but like many other vapes medication happens on schedule. Despite the prototype related shortcomings (a couple of burn adventures in 10 minutes?) and the rest, they saw through to the basic idea and found it useful as both SC and I did. Two more qualified 'you're on the right track' votes, and IMO the qualifications are all 'fixable' in due course. I expect such guys would be potential customers when it's ready for release. It's not a party vape, the two of them sharing was awkward. I wasn't taking part but was offering advice and instructions. IMO it's a 'one guy at a time' machine.

I'm back home to charge batteries (literally) and get something to eat. Tonight it's off for another friend's turn at testing. These tests are straight herb. Sometime in the next few days I want to redo the bubble test and do some kief testing. I'm thinking of going for straight concentrate as well as the mix. Since DubC fed it a teaspoon or oil (OK maybe it was only half....) I guess I'm not concerned with fouling it up worse, the once white floor plate now looks like somewhat corroded metal......

I keep the batteries out of it when not using it, but despite it's frail nature and rough life it's a positive thing it's working at all in some ways. For sure the basic scheme is showing promise.

OF
 
OF,
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OF

Well-Known Member
With charged batteries, as a next test, I loaded some straight kief. I didn't think to weigh it, I'm already used to the idea of filling to the top of the post. Very fluffy stuff, I was thinking I don't want to shake this up into the screen so I decided to run it a bit and open it up and look it over. I went to 330 again after not getting much action at 320 in a minute or two, the hits improved, no big clouds (I checked under good light), different taste, but it seemed very potent. Maybe 3 medium hits and I shut it off. My tolerance is up, but the effects were stronger than I'd expected right off. Neat stuff. So, as I'm still coming on, I open it up (with a handy rag, not the oven mitt again this time, SC, please forgive me but the best I could find was a pot holder....). Sure enough, the bulk is way down but some is still untouched in kind of a crust around the top which poked down when touched with a toothpick. Vapor came swirling up as the heater was still hot. I decided to top it up since it was now maybe half full.

Setting it aside, I went to get the vial of kief. I had no trouble seeing the big clouds coming out of it when I returned, SOB had done it to me again! It was running away on it's own! Did I ever feel stupid, still do. I wasn't through using it, I'd checked very carefully on shutdown. With some trouble got to 'off' and confirmed it. It went dark, didn't respond to 2 or 3 button presses (takes 5 to turn on or off). It was off. Except it wasn't. I turned my back for maybe a minute and it was smoking!! It came to life with 5 presses, gave me the 'on' prompt, which I confirmed and it lit up and displayed 424 degrees. I've never been above 350, it was set for 330 and reading about that when I shut it off....or so it said. At least this time the display was still cool enough to display. I now think the loose battery/reset problem from earlier is not what caused the problem before. It was probably more like this time (where it was evidently running away when I set it down) in that for whatever reason it left the heater on when it went to sleep? Perhaps it's just been overheated too much? Maybe there's a subtle program issue, I did have trouble getting to the 'off' prompt. Still the display was off, it was unresponsive to button presses, it seemed to think it was off?

You know this guy came from SC with a couple of warnings (past the oven mitt part....). One was to watch out for a dodgy center contact pin in the battery tube, the other to take the batteries out when I wasn't using it. I should have taken him at his word, and as more than a guideline. Even though he didn't have it run away (AFAIK), he knew what he was talking about here. Who'd have guessed? While it seems random (it's run fine several cycles, cooling off nicely before I break it down for storage and battery charging) it's only happened twice now and both lately. I'm leaning toward sick microprocessor.

The center contact issue seems to be straight mechanical. It can goof up the switches if it acts up I assume by pressing upward on them. Clearly an artifact of being a prototype, thus far we're working around it.

So that's the latest. It does seem to do a good job with kief (although I just lost half my stash on an aborted test....) and it's definitely not to be trusted unless you have it in one hand and the battery in the other. Although when it works, it's doing well. More testing is called for, with a very short leash.

OF
 
OF,

Sinclue

OK disagree with me, I can't force you to be right
You know this guy came from SC with a couple of warnings.........the other to take the batteries out when I wasn't using it. I should have taken him at his word, and as more than a guideline. Even though he didn't have it run away (AFAIK), he knew what he was talking about here.

Who'd have guessed?


Maybe it didn't run away from me because I always took it apart....you think?

Actually I did that for two reasons. First to aid it cooling it down faster to be able to start another test. Second because on one of the earlier runs I had trouble getting it to say "Off" and then it went black and wouldn't respond. As I wasn't positive it was really off I saw no reason to stop disassembling.

Remember all, this thing has been through a lot (as it should) so acting a tad wonky doesn't seem unreasonable.

Thanks for the "props"
 

OF

Well-Known Member
Maybe it didn't run away from me because I always took it apart....you think?

Actually I did that for two reasons. First to aid it cooling it down faster to be able to start another test. Second because on one of the earlier runs I had trouble getting it to say "Off" and then it went black and wouldn't respond. As I wasn't positive it was really off I saw no reason to stop disassembling.

Remember all, this thing has been through a lot (as it should) so acting a tad wonky doesn't seem unreasonable.

Thanks for the "props"

Excellent point, in this case if I had pulled the battery in the first minute or so I'd never have known anything was amiss. Same is true for the time before I think, it takes a minute or two to get really hot. I understand it can sense when I put it down and all, but how does it know I'm not watching so it can time this stuff so well?

The 'trouble getting to off' I've had a couple times, it just flips on/standby on alternate clicks for a while, but when "off" comes up holding the button down seems to shut it down.....sorta.....sometimes.

I also think you're right. This puppy's been through a lot already, I'm not reading much into it in terms of strange behavior and mechanical issues. The concept itself seems to work. My two 'guest testers' ran the temperature up like you did at first, FWIW. They seemed happy with the results, which I think is what really matters. It is a personal thing in the end.

You're welcome for the credit when it goes well, Lord knows you take the heat on the other end. I know you did a bang up job shaking this sucker out.....but we can make that our secret, OK?

OF
 

jpdnkstr

Well-Known Member
G, You couldn't have found better guinea pigs at Petsmart! These guys are putting this thing thru the ringer, and not shy about it! Keep up the good work fellas, it's part of the process that makes these products what they are(and will be)!

I'm sooo glad I found this place....LOL
 
jpdnkstr,

THC SCIENTIFIC

To Boldly Go Where No One Has Gone Before
Manufacturer
G, You couldn't have found better guinea pigs at Petsmart! These guys are putting this thing thru the ringer, and not shy about it! Keep up the good work fellas, it's part of the process that makes these products what they are(and will be)!

I'm sooo glad I found this place....LOL

Thanks boss, that is why they are selected. These guys will tell you how it is, and if you dont like it go cry to mommy, This is not a sugar coating message board. If it passes these guys tests then its ready for the limelight.
 

Sinclue

OK disagree with me, I can't force you to be right
Thanks boss, that is why they are selected. These guys will tell you how it is, and if you dont like it go cry to mommy, This is not a sugar coating message board. If it passes these guys tests then its ready for the limelight.

GO for next stage!
 
Sinclue,

OF

Well-Known Member
For those keeping score, last night I returned the much used prototype 8. It's showing the scars of tough testing, and is sadly in need of some repair. Remember, however, most if not all these issues are related to being a prototype. Production units (indeed the next prototypes I bet) will have these issues addressed.

It ran away a third time, but got caught right away. It also reset itself several times but the batteries are loose for other reasons. Between such setbacks it delivered the goods, the basic ceramic bottom conduction thingie with a funny post in the middle works for most anything you feed it provided you're a bit careful.

IMO it shows great promise, once some of the kinks are ironed out. It should be worth the wait.

And if the planned Universe is really a spin off of this heater scheme, it too should be worthy of consideration. And as a more manual vape, I think it would appeal to many more? And it should be ready sooner.......

OF
 
OF,
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