Alexis

Well-Known Member
Seems like I have been doing completely wrong, I remembered heating the cap at the bottom is recommended so I stayed in that area with mediocre success.

Thanks for pointing me in the right direction!

Hey check out my post below from a few pages back. I talk specifically about where exactly I heat the cap and how. Like many others I begin the first cycle by aiming the flame at the diggerouter end, with the edge of the flame in line with the bottom of the cap but no further (i.e. I dont have any of the flame touch the Ti tip below the cap.

But I always avoid heating there for the whole time until the click comes. I think you might have done exactly this. This will possibly lead to combustion. I start at the bottom, then move to the middle after maybe 4 or 5 secomds and stay there for a few secomds. By then the click is getting ckose, and even just staying on the middle, with the quad torch I am using, with a wider flame, still heating the botom (diggerouter) end at the smae time as the middle, is something .i try to avoid (staying in the middle until the click comes).

So after a few seconds heating the middle, after initially the bottom for 4 or 5 seconds, I start moving up towards the tip so thatbthe click comes just in time to safely prevent combustion.

I feel that if I stay on the middle and wait for the click, the load can still get too hot, while moving to the tip ensures a click within a second of hitting that area.

But I dont want to do this too soon (move to the tip) because the click can occur while the temperature is a bit lower and result in less dense hits, as you have experienced..

If you heat at the tip from the start every time, you will do well to get visible vaoor. You extract so slowly over many cycles, so that by the time the load is drier and warmer, even if the temp gets up, the herb has already been a bit drained.

Alternatively, you can just heat the middle of the cap the whole time. There is virtually no risk of combustion, and you can stil, get very good visiable hits. But generally the hits will be more and smaller this way, with a few more heat cycles to spend the load.

Flame distance may be another factor. I avoid hitting the cap with the inner blue flame. I think this may cause combustion. I keep the cap about half way inside the outer flame.

So I suggest that you begin aiming at the bottom, and work on geting a feel for how long is necessary before you move up the cap with the flame. If you stay at the bottom, the click takes forever to come and here is the danger.
My post:
I tried using my Omnivap the other day, into that same small bubbler in your picture, using the fat mouthpiece over the metal one, into a 14 mm reducer, rather than with the 18 mm VonG.

It didnt seemmto be at all air tight. I had to press down into the moithpiece everytime but never got a seal the same as the VonG. It worked, maybe not as well. It may be the female joint and how that seals the fat moutpiece, I know some have had best results with a male joint, and to reach the carb easier.



I am using only George's quad torch currently. The triple is hard for me to use due to hand issues. The quad is harder to pinpoint the flame on one section of the cap,, the triple can be turned so that a very specific point can be heated.

I have only just really got into the swing of using the vaporizer (Omni) the last few days. It has taken me a while to get into a routine, and used to the dosages and pattern etc so that it all just flows.. much to do with allergy management though for me and medicating right.

This morning I got the closest to combustion yet. Could not have got closer. It was a good load in the VonG and bubbler, but I had music on and didnt react to the click soon enough.

Vapor (or smoke) was gushing out before I took a drag, I knew I had done it. It was super thick, I just inhaled it anyway to see what it was like. I cant tolerate smoke at all. It was a huge hit. I exhaled quickly in case it was smoke. No immediate bad reaction anyway.

This is the load after that one hit:


There is a slight smell similarity I could pick up, but nothing to make me think I need to clean the Omnivap with iso. I have been aiming the quad flame so that the edge of it lines up with the bottom of the load/cap, and about half way in the outer flame.

The flame also hits the middle of the cap at the same time. I don't want to heat near the diggerouter until the click, but I also don't want to go near the tip too soon and cause an early click.
So I startbat the bottom and middle, after maybe 4 or 5 seconds I move to the middle for a few seconds, slowly moving to the tip when I am happy the whole load has been heated.

This is workning well for me. After he first heat cycle I tend to stick to the middle ajd can get consistent thick hits for 3 or more cycles.

The load above, I dont think it was actual smoke. It didnt really smell, it hasnt buggered my chest. It is as far as you can take it, schorching it, but a true one hitter.
Still, I will avoid!

Oh, amazingly you can still see the beautiful trichomes. Check it out!

So That was the closest I got to combustion. The water in the bubbler smelled a bit like bong watr, but the Omnivap itself didnt smell too much, and the hit wasnt like smoke either.
I didnt feel loke I needed to soak my Omnivap in a hurry. And it only happened because I had music on, and I had gotten so safe feelong with my heating metheod thatb.i didnt feel loke combustion was a risk at all. I let my guard down and took it for granted, and didnt react to the click with the background noise.

But then yesterday, a friend visited. I went to finish a load that had been left in from the previous day. Aftre the first click, I wasnt getting any vapor so I actually gave up inhaling. I was distracted by my friend. I havent really had any company since getting the Omnivap. Without thinking, I began heating the cap again. But then I siddenly realised that I hadnt waited for the cool down click. I could smell it immediately, a dirty smell coming from the cap.

I didnt inhale just waited for the cool down click , which took well over 2 minutes as the cap was roasting hot. The load was totally black, and the whole apparatus stank badly. Too bad to use again.

It is soaking in iso now. Like you Im still not sure exactly how to best go about his process.
I wasnt sure if I just chuck the whole Ti tip in as it is. I didnt want to stsrt playing around with those black o rings on the tip, so I may have done wrong here.

This has actually taught me how much I enjoy the Omnivap. While it's use poses some personal problems for me, I am really missing having it there as an option.
I want to use it now, today, but I dont how how long it will take to getbthe iso to evaporate off and dry.

Can anybody advuse me here please? I will rinse it in a moment with hot water and set on tissue on a plate. Can I put it in a low heat oven for a short time. Thanks for any help!
 
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Tony Timeless

Well-Known Member
Hey check out my post below from a few pages back. I talk specifically about where exactly I heat the cap and how. Like many others I begin the first cycle by aiming the flame at the diggerouter end, with the edge of the flame in line with the bottom of the cap but no further (i.e. I dont have any of the flame touch the Ti tip below the cap.

But I always avoid heating there for the whole time until the click comes. I think you might have done exactly this. This will possibly lead to combustion. I start at the bottom, then move to the middle after maybe 4 or 5 secomds and stay there for a few secomds. By then the click is getting ckose, and even just staying on the middle, with the quad torch I am using, with a wider flame, still heating the botom (diggerouter) end at the smae time as the middle, is something .i try to avoid (staying in the middle until the click comes).

So after a few seconds heating the middle, after initially the bottom for 4 or 5 seconds, I start moving up towards the tip so thatbthe click comes just in time to safely prevent combustion.

I feel that if I stay on the middle and wait for the click, the load can still get too hot, while moving to the tip ensures a click within a second of hitting that area.

But I dont want to do this too soon (move to the tip) because the click can occur while the temperature is a bit lower and result in less dense hits, as you have experienced..

If you heat at the tip from the start every time, you will do well to get visible vaoor. You extract so slowly over many cycles, so that by the time the load is drier and warmer, even if the temp gets up, the herb has already been a bit drained.

Alternatively, you can just heat the middle of the cap the whole time. There is virtually no risk of combustion, and you can stil, get very good visiable hits. But generally the hits will be more and smaller this way, with a few more heat cycles to spend the load.

Flame distance may be another factor. I avoid hitting the cap with the inner blue flame. I think this may cause combustion. I keep the cap about half way inside the outer flame.

So I suggest that you begin aiming at the bottom, and work on geting a feel for how long is necessary before you move up the cap with the flame. If you stay at the bottom, the click takes forever to come and here is the danger.
My post:


So That was the closest I got to combustion. The water in the bubbler smelled a bit like bong watr, but the Omnivap itself didnt smell too much, and the hit wasnt like smoke either.
I didnt feel loke I needed to soak my Omnivap in a hurry. And it only happened because I had music on, and I had gotten so safe feelong with my heating metheod thatb.i didnt feel loke combustion was a risk at all. I let my guard down and took it for granted, and didnt react to the click with the background noise.

But then yesterday, a friend visited. I went to finish a load that had been left in from the previous day. Aftre the first click, I wasnt getting any vapor so I actually gave up inhaling. I was distracted by my friend. I havent really had any company since getting the Omnivap. Without thinking, I began heating the cap again. But then I siddenly realised that I hadnt waited for the cool down click. I could smell it immediately, a dirty smell coming from the cap.

I didnt inhale just waited for the cool down click , which took well over 2 minutes as the cap was roasting hot. The load was totally black, and the whole apparatus stank badly. Too bad to use again.

It is soaking in iso now. Like you Im still not sure exactly how to best go about his process.
I wasnt sure if I just chuck the whole Ti tip in as it is. I didnt want to stsrt playing around with those black o rings on the tip, so I may have done wrong here.

This has actually taught me how much I enjoy the Omnivap. While it's use poses some personal problems for me, I am really missing having it there as an option.
I want to use it now, today, but I dont how how long it will take to getbthe iso to evaporate off and dry.

Can anybody advuse me here please? I will rinse it in a moment with hot water and set on tissue on a plate. Can I put it in a low heat oven for a short time. Thanks for any help!



Hey thank you very much for your details on heating the cap!!

I did have MUCH better results when heating the cap in the middle instead of heating near the tip of the cap. Just packed a little amount of herb and I was able to extract everything within 2 heat cycles and got a nice even ABV. excellent :)

Regarding your question of cleaning the components and letting them dry:

I soaked the tip and the condenser in rubbing alcohol over night to make sure all the combustion- by-products are gone and after I rinsed them with hot water I was able to dry them really quick by just using a paper towel. No alcohol smell at all. I think it evaporates rather quickly usually.
So thanks again for your help!!
 

Alexis

Well-Known Member
Hey thank you very much for your details on heating the cap!!

I did have MUCH better results when heating the cap in the middle instead of heating near the tip of the cap. Just packed a little amount of herb and I was able to extract everything within 2 heat cycles and got a nice even ABV. excellent :)

Regarding your question of cleaning the components and letting them dry:

I soaked the tip and the condenser in rubbing alcohol over night to make sure all the combustion- by-products are gone and after I rinsed them with hot water I was able to dry them really quick by just using a paper towel. No alcohol smell at all. I think it evaporates rather quickly usually.
So thanks again for your help!!
No worries glad to be of help.
I have now rinsed and dried my omnivap. All the odor from combustion is gone, except a tiny bit on the black o rings of the Ti tip.

Its shiny and new, Im about to take it for a test drive! Im glad It haooened now beacuse it has made it clear how much I like this vaporizer. I would be quite depressed actually if I didnt have it and had only my herborizer at my disposal.

Another tip, I am also using a small bit of hemp fiber which I put under the screen in the Ti tip, the other side to where the herbs go. @Squiby recommened making a hemp fiber gauze to place on top of the screen. I tried that but bits would get cauht in it when I tried emptying loads and it mae it more hassle. So now I place it the other side of the screen, underneath.

It seems to cool the vapor a bit more, and it will prevent bits from getting thouh into your mouth. I believe it will also keep the condenser tube cleaner for longer, but this isnt a necessity at all, just an option.
Dynavap sold me the hemp fiber for just $5.

Best wishes to you with your vapcap enjoyment I hope it is a lasting pleasure!

Edit- I just vaped a durban poison seed! Since I am using unground buds at the moment, this will always be a possibilty.
 
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Squiby

Well-Known Member
@Squiby recommened making a hemp fiber gauze to place on top of the screen. I tried that but bits would get cauht in it when I tried emptying loads and it mae it more hassle. So now I place it the other side of the screen, underneath.

I like the hemp filter a lot and have one in every tip. You are right that this sometimes makes emptying the load more onerous. Instead of just turning the VC upside down and dumping the load, I sometimes have to use the digger outter to loosen it if the spent nug gets caught on a bit of fiber. Note that I microdose and do not grind my bud. I tear off a small nug and pop it into the bowl. Most of the time it will just drop out but sometimes it needs my encouragement.

I may try placing the fiber under the screen rather than on top. For me, the benefits of using a hemp filter far outweigh any inconvenience. Smoother, cooler vapor and a clean VC for a very long time.
 

Alexis

Well-Known Member
I like the hemp filter a lot and have one in every tip. You are right that this sometimes makes emptying the load more onerous. Instead of just turning the VC upside down and dumping the load, I sometimes have to use the digger outter to loosen it if the spent nug gets caught on a bit of fiber. Note that I microdose and do not grind my bud. I tear off a small nug and pop it into the bowl. Most of the time it will just drop out but sometimes it needs my encouragement.

I may try placing the fiber under the screen rather than on top. For me, the benefits of using a hemp filter far outweigh any inconvenience. Smoother, cooler vapor and a clean VC for a very long time.
Yes I am using unground bud as well. But the hemp fiber gauze you showed me was a work of art by my (currently) incapable standards. Yours was very neat, so emptying would be easier that way.
Mine had bits of fiber poking out all over. Uneven surface with bits of dropped bud getting stuck between the fibers.
So that was the issue, certainly not the method per se.

One thing though as I remember Squiby or anybody else please- days ago I removed the ceramic screen from the omni to try without a screen at all, just hemp fiber.
But when it came to putting the screen back I was confused. That little metal ring (or clip), I wasnt sure what to do with it. I dont know if it is broken even, it is not joined all the way round.

And its imposible to get it right to the bottom of the chamber where the screen is. I am using a biro pen lid to pish it down just far enough to stop the screen falling out. The screen does wiggle a bit but it works.
But I swear it didnt look like that originally. You can see the metal clip above the screen, with a gap underneath it where bits of bud get caught. Thats the only problem really.

Any insight is welcome and big thanks.
 
Alexis,

Squiby

Well-Known Member
But when it came to putting the screen back I was confused. That little metal ring (or clip), I wasnt sure what to do with it. I dont know if it is broken even, it is not joined all the way round.

It's not likely broken.

The retaining ring is not a solid ring, it is a "C" shape. It needs to be pushed down flat over the screen so that the "C" compresses a bit, thereby holding itself tight against the screen.

This can be a fiddly business. Success can be achieved by finding a dowel of some sort that fits the inside diameter of the tip. I have a pair of chop sticks that work for me. I use the narrow end to sort of position the retaining ring as flat and as close as possible to the screen. Then I use the wider end, which fits perfecting in the bowl to push the ring down until it sort of snaps into place as it seats itself against the screen. It can be fiddly and frustrating at first but once you get it, it's easy peasey to repeat.

Others have mentioned that the end of a pencil, with the eraser removed, works nicely.
 

Vapor_Eyes

taste buds
An 8mm or 5/16 inch dowel is the perfect size for putting in the clip. I've heard them called c-clips or spring clips.

If it will not go all the way down in the chamber you can try squeezing it together a very small amount, making the gap in the "c" a tiny bit smaller if that makes sense.

On the other hand, if it goes down too easily and doesn't stay in place, make the gap wider. The easiest way I've found to do this is with pliers.

The important thing is to only make very small adjustments at a time until it's perfect.

Now that I have a CCD in there I don't plan on removing the screen anytime soon. I should be able to clean the tip fine with it in place, and the screen itself does not seem to get gunked up at all.

Leave it to George to not only invent a great, innovative vaporizer, but also a new type of screen more advanced than anything else out there. I find the CCD to be a very nice screen design with great airflow.
 

invertedisdead

PHASE3
Manufacturer
But then yesterday, a friend visited. I went to finish a load that had been left in from the previous day. Aftre the first click, I wasnt getting any vapor so I actually gave up inhaling. I was distracted by my friend. I havent really had any company since getting the Omnivap. Without thinking, I began heating the cap again. But then I siddenly realised that I hadnt waited for the cool down click. I could smell it immediately, a dirty smell coming from the cap.

Yep, same here yesterday, busted... forgot to wait for the cool down click. In my mind I was thinking, "this seems to be taking a little long" and yeah, kaboom, fiyah pon babylon.

Fuck combustion!
 

Alexis

Well-Known Member
Hey everyone, I just did a full load in the Omnivap with the short VonG into bubbler. I have been using unground bud recently and thought that may he better. I have been quite bothered about not actually needing my new santa cruz shredder which cost £19.

I also bought another one for my mum to use, because she will use the plants with fertilisers which Im allergic to, so I need my grinder to use only my ones that I must keep exclusively and stretch annually.
So I can justify spending £38 on 2 good grinders to enhance vapor production. But then suddenly it seems we dont need them for the vapcaps after all.

I am also hoping to acquire another more heavy hitting vaporizer soon. I have gone off my Herborizer since using the Ommivap. I have been very excited since first seeing the Brick. I was very interested but am confidently decided on the Supreme after much thought.

The point is, the Supreme is also best with unground bud. I thought, "shit, my mum mighh be on my case for wasting that money on grinders we dont need."

But anyway, tonight, after cleaning my Omni up shiny new, I decided to try a ground load. I packed it full without tryimg to press down, to the brim.

I then followed the routine I have been in with success. That bowl was without a doubt the best I have had with the Omnivap. Ii got so many super hits from it. They were all huge, but very nice tasting and pleasant, right to the end.
I lost count because I couldnt believe how many there were, and not getting smaller either.
It was the nicest tasting vapor I have had from the Omni yet, and it was so pleasant.
It was at least 5 or 6 great hits. A great buzz too, its like a different quality vapor altogether. It hasnt bothered my chest nearly as much eitner. I have a full, high quality buzz going from 1 load.

The herb used had been sitting out of jar for a few days. It is all curing but I never got humidity low enough below 65% and its tricky to bring it down now here.

So that could be a factor, the drier herbs releasing more. But I used the same herb unground earlier. This ground bowl was something else! I think my technique has picked up a lot since I last used ground bud and it has just clicked. It seems packed ground loads will give the biggest hits at lower temperature. And they kept coming, unbeleivable!
 

invertedisdead

PHASE3
Manufacturer
Has anybody tried a flat flame torch? Seems like it would work well for this.

Black+Label+Flame+1.JPG
 

Baron23

Well-Known Member
What another awesome week this has been. More planning, and some new 3d models on an upcoming project in the works. It is fun working on several projects at the same time as each stage has its own challenges and rewards.

So as we get more familiar with our laser, things are going well. Here is a batch of the our first laser cut caps.

IMG-20161019-WA0003_zpsirfbpvmc.jpeg


And then after the first lotus, a challenge presented itself.
And we accepted.

IMG_20161019_105236490_HDR_zpsonx9ggha.jpg


I thought the detail on the first one was good, then our new laser master Scott, did this.

So then today, it was time to try out the new logo on the cap.

IMG_20161021_210724614_zpsnfpwljh2.jpg


Here it is. Proportion wise it fits. I have been also considering the fact it is a bit cryptic. Kind of nice if it is on my shirt. People I don't want to know what it is are oblivious to its meaning. But those who know, well they are part of the Dynavap club.
As always, I would like to know everyone's thoughts.

Cheers,

George
@VapCap
Hi George - I will say it again, I like the new logo and I certainly like the mandala pic. Its truly wonderful.
 

invertedisdead

PHASE3
Manufacturer
Someone said "N" - I'm having good luck aiming at "Y" - only used a single (shit) torch so far. Was having mixed results, but the last few loads with this new method is getting thick righteous pulls each time!
 
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EmDeemo

ACCOUNT INACTIVE
Someone said "N" - I'm having good luck aiming at "Y" - only used a single (shit) torch so far. Was having mixed results, but the last few loads with this new method is getting thick righteous pulls each time!

Im finding "Y" to be my heat level of choice, closer towards N and I tend to combust. Theres a guy ive seen on youtube heating at around the first A and the V, no idea how he isnt combusting every time :)
 

natural farmer

Well-Known Member
Im finding "Y" to be my heat level of choice, closer towards N and I tend to combust. Theres a guy ive seen on youtube heating at around the first A and the V, no idea how he isnt combusting every time :)
If you keep the flame at about a 45° angle with the the tip of the flame pointing towards the tip of the cap the heat is dispersed more uniformly and the click comes earlier than if you hold the flame perpendicular to the cap... This way you can move your flame lower and still avoid combustion. ;)
 

invertedisdead

PHASE3
Manufacturer
Great stuff but quite expensive... :o

Yeah, I've only been able to identify 3 so far, the Black Label El Presidente and Dictator, and the S.T. Dupont Slim 7.

That being said, I would still consider it, especially if the vapcap was my daily as it seems quality and I can't imagine anything worse than having a rock solid reliable vapcap that works anywhere rain or shine and the torch craps out.

Actually I've already been experiencing just that, My Eagle hasn't even lasted 24 hours.
Reviews say they seem more efficient on butane than multi jet lighters, and the design tends to be more compact than some multi jet flames which both would be really nice for out on the go.
 

Squiby

Well-Known Member
A single flame lighter requires a different technique than when using a multiple jet lighter.

When I use a double, triple or quad lighter, I can aim steady near the bottom, then top, as I progress through the heating cycles. It is the easier technique as only the hand holding the Vapcap needs to move, twirling the Vapcap as the cap is heated.

However, the single jet works best for me if I move flame back and forth between the N and the V for the first cycle. Then for the next cycle I move the flame between the D and the N. I never hold the flame steady on one particular spot as I twirl the Vapcap when using a single flame as this overheats the bowl. Using a single jet requires coordination and movement from both hands; twirl the Vapcap while moving the flame back and forth over a portion of the cap. :2c:
 

Tony Timeless

Well-Known Member
A single flame lighter requires a different technique than when using a multiple jet lighter.

When I use a double, triple or quad lighter, I can aim steady near the bottom, then top, as I progress through the heating cycles. It is the easier technique as only the hand holding the Vapcap needs to move, twirling the Vapcap as the cap is heated.

However, the single jet works best for me if I move flame back and forth between the N and the V for the first cycle. Then for the next cycle I move the flame between the D and the N. I never hold the flame steady on one particular spot as I twirl the Vapcap when using a single flame as this overheats the bowl. Using a single jet requires coordination and movement from both hands; twirl the Vapcap while moving the flame back and forth over a portion of the cap. :2c:


Hey,
nice that you mention these differences. Interesting read, but this leads me to a (maybe silly) question, but does the VC function the opposite way as many other vapes when it comes to heat? Let me clarify: usually you tend to raise the temperature at the end of a bowl to fully extract, aren't you?

I ask because I am still trying to figure out a way which works for me - just thought I had get the hang on it, but then combustion again. It really starts to frustrate me - because i still cannot find the reason why. :(
 
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