Hey,
nice that you mention these differences. Interesting read, but this leads me to a (maybe silly) question, but does the VC function the opposite way as many other vapes when it comes to heat? Let me clarify: usually you tend to raise the temperature at the end of a bowl to fully extract, aren't you?
I ask because I am still trying to figure out a way which works for me - just thought I had get the hang on it, but then combustion again. It really starts to frustrate me - because i still cannot find the reason why.
I have combusted twice now in past week. The first time wasn't really full combustion, I didnt rush to soak everything. But the bubbler ater did smell loke bong water though.
It happened because I didnt react to the click immediately as music was playing.
It was only a second and a half maybe at most, but for the first 2 weeks I had respected the click always and never got close to combustion.
Then on Saturday I properly combusted and the apparatus was stinky and had to be iso soaked overnight.
Damn that was some nasty smelling iso when I tipped it away. Like "cologne of bong water".
Its all good and new now. Anyway, I basically didnt wait for the cool down click before reheating, for the first time yet.
I heated initially and inhaled, but didnt get any vapor. I was distracted also talking to a friend.
I backed out of the pull, realising I had underheated it and was waiting to go again. But I forgot about the cool down click, as it was already cool to me. I realised quickly but it was too late.
A nasty smell I didnt even contemplate inhaling, just waited for it to cool down. It took over 2 minutes to click as well.
So basically, I have combusted 2 times. Once by reacting to the click too late, and the other by not waiting for the cool down click.
Since cleaning the Omnivap and being without it, I dont want to combust again, so I was a bit shy I guess. But then I pointed the above out to myself.
So stick to those 2 rules for a start. Obviously the more you heat by the bottom of the cap, especially as the load goes on (and gets warmer, drier, easier to ignite), the higher the chance of combustion, even if you respect the 2 golden rules.
This is why you give it more heat at the beginning, it takes more temperature to get the load up to vaporisation templs. But then less as it dries and warms.
Think of setting hay alight, much easier if it is dry. This is why most people start heatimg at the bottom and less with following heat cycles.
The vapcap probably extracts the majority of compounds across a broad range of boiling points without burning them up.
I believe this is the principle of many vaporizers beginning on lower temps, to extract more of those specific compounds without evaporatiing them too quickly.
Just thought, the Vapcap may destroy some terpenes which are low temp and another big reason for starting at low temps. This would accoint for the Vapcap not being the best tasting vapor.
Another factor I think may be the lighter distance to cap. I think if you get it really close, the heat gets through to the material more powerfully. Anyway I swear flame distence may be involved. I avoid touvhing the cap with the inner blue flame. If I dont seem to be getting good hits, I often put the cap closer to the inner blue flame to get better hits.
).
