Discussion in 'DIY' started by KeepCalm, Nov 15, 2008.
thanks...plus..this thing piled up..compared to a ssv is comparable size...just a different shape
Alright, here are some new pictures:
By cutting down some of the white plastic wire supports in the handle and twisting the two wires that connect to the heating element just a tiny bit, I could get the heating element and thus the heater cover down pretty close to the handle. Just had to cut the screws to size.
Here's the new bowl I got. Works perfect and holds a fair amount. Just a stock roor.us 18.8 mm snapper with a screen of appropriate size jammed in. Dirty haha!
Mated with the SS heater cover:
word thank you!
eah the vapor bong thing was so-so (possibly the roor bent neck stock bowl i had )
cool man you the best!
I did ask if the ssv cover could work on other soldering irons but it would have to be safe. I was just looking for an affordable soldering station that came with the temperature control and found a digital model here, its the MPJA Model 302A, 40W Temperature controlled soldering station. Scroll all the way down. It seems like a good deal and I have read reviews of people using it to solder with, all having good results and some were comparing it to the hakkos they own and thought it might be worth trying but not sure if it will work with the ssv cover. http://www.mpja.com/productsdirect....&item2=15845 TL&item3=15140 TL&item4=15141 TL
you could test it out...no guarantees there tho
stick with what we kno...its already cheap enough (but still works kick ass..im just referring to the aesthetics)
Hey Hennessy, I've been using a microphone stand to hold the hakko and do whip hits - very stable and you can set it to have the downward angle just like the proper ssv. If you can get one cheap I recommend it. Pics soon.
Yeah I will go with what works.
Hey Keepcalm, I have a couple quick questions. A friend gave me his ssv heater cover but I noticed on the site that they offer 2 models, one is for a heater stand that is perforated and the other for a solid stainless steel one. I dont know which one I have and if it matters? Also,is the plastic tubing necessary, is it just for protection? Thanks
It only matters if you're using it on an SSV. The glass is the same. The metal shim at the bottom, where the cover fits on the connection, is different.
Awesome Keepcalm, now we need some milkshots dude!!!
I never realized the SSV heating cover only has one intake air hole... interesting. Do you notice an uneven cook from this at all?
My tribute to olympic athlete Michael Phelps. Also, I love my $10 fisheye.
Nice shots keepcalm, I can't wait to try it. Can you tell me a little more about what the tubing does in the hakko?
Thanks man! Basically the tubing makes it so the metal bracket isn't interfacing directly with the glass heater cover - metal on plastic on glass is better than metal on glass. Hope that makes sense.
Edit - it also effectively seals off the area between the metal bracket and the Hakko handle, preventing air from entering there.
Thanks Keepcalm. So it keeps air out and it keeps metal from touching the glass which could potentially damage it correct.
that is very very good!!!!
just insane dude...
how much USD aprox. to do this wand including the ssv glass heat cover ?
thank you! great DIY project!!!
Henny got it right.
Hakko 456 - $40
SSV heater cover - $20
Temp controller - $15
Screws and tubing - $5
Plus the cost of whatever you use it with, e.g., an appropriate glass bowl or whip or whatever.
hum interesting price.. i mean, VERY interesting...
access to all of this parts can be quite a pain here at my country...
did you think in make some of these to sell?
if you ever think in sell one please send me an email,
just love this project
dude...i can make you one...e-mail me
lets get this on!!!
I was debating between this and the vrip but it looks like vrip is not allowed to ship to certain states, so looks like I will be getting these parts soon. Where did you find the temp controller for $15.00 keepcalm? Has anyone's heater cover slipped out of the plastic holding?
i ask Hennessi he said that plastic never melt...
i think its just NOT put the temperature controller to full operational , i think max setting must be 50% if so.
correct me if im wrong
Yep, the tubing I used is food-safe to something like 400F, and at 50% of 60 watts there's no way it's getting anywhere near that. The SSV heater cover comes with a thin metal shim, and that acts as a bit of a heat shield too (see pics).
If you get the screw length set right, the bracket drilled out properly, and the heating element low enough in the handle the heater cover won't slip at all - but this part is tricky! I hope I'm not making it look easier than it is. Henn, correct me if I'm wrong, but you weren't able to get this part set up 100% right?
Oh and I don't really have time to be selling these things (not sure how 7th floor would like that anyway, can't imagine they're making much money on the spare parts), but hit me up with any questions if any of you try this.
Edit - jx80, I just happened to find the temp controller on etsy via a google search for $10 + $5 shipping. All it is is a rheostat in a box so if you have minimal electronics skills you could probably make the same thing for like $5 really, just figure out which rheostat you need, wire it up, and find an appropriate enclosure.
Thanks keepcalm, sounds like you found a good deal. I have not seen them for less then around $30 with shipping. Most people just go by looks of their vaped herb which I do to but I like to know what temperature things are working at. Have you measured your temperatures on your wand? Could you? I see you getting yelllowish light green vaped herb and thick hits at 50% of the 60 watt wand with your controller, just curious what temp that is.
Might it be possible to use a generic solid state AC line voltage regulator device, such as a simple less than $10 lighting dimmer switch usually rated at 600 watts, to lower the voltage being supplied to the soldering iron?
As I understand it, these devices cut off an increasing portion or each sine wave of AC current, with this reducing the overall voltage. How are standard solid state AC light dimmers different from more expensive variable voltage regulators?