DIY Bulli Vaporizer

[E0x]

how do you get those number and what exactly mean "Heat Capacity" and "Tc Precision"

thanks

 

[Pipes]

Think about it in a more general sense.
Overall efficiency should increase with gauge of wire. Basing this on faster heatup and cool down. Minimal losses because of "time".
Overall heat transfer ability goes the other way. Meaning thicker gauge gives more transfer but wastes heat (calories) in the energy to get hot and wasted on letting it cool.
Make sense..? Kind of a gut feel.
So, if true, the trick to optimise the best of both worlds would be to use a gauge that is as thin gauge possible and still have enough transfer ability to get those clouds. IMHO, going thicker really is just overkill. But fun nonetheless. I have noticed a couple supporting comments like using high wattage with thicker gauge, and battery life isn't as good. Also, haven't noticed any single cell users have been playing with the thicker stuff. All indicates it takes more power.
Those numbers can get confusing very fast...LOL Seems different manufactures are using different ways and options to input the coefficients.
Fun stuff.

 

[mantis_871]

I'm no expert, but I remember from high school a simple physics equation for this. R = ρL/A, where R is resistance/ohms, ρ is resistivity, L is length of wire and A is the cross-sectional area of the wire, which corresponds to the thickness. Of course you can transpose this to get any variable you need, ρ = R(L)/A may be more useful as it's easier to measure R, L, and A. It's best to use milimeters for length and mm^2 for area. You can convert AWG into mm^2 easily. ρ would be Ω * mm.
There's been a lot of mention of temperature coefficients in this thread. There's a formula for finding your change in resistivity with a corresponding change in temperature.
Δρ = α(ΔT)(ρ0). In this case, α is your temperature coefficient, Δρ and ΔT are change in resistivity and temp, respectively, and ρ0 is your original resistivity, usually at room temperature (20°C). This website http://www.endmemo.com/physics/resistt.php can help find these quick. Between these two equations (and some way of measuring resistance) you can figure out just about any number you need. Hope it helps someone and I didn't go rambling on for nothing
But anyways, it does play into it as the resistivity will change with the temperature, and will change differently according to the metal used. The chart that @Pipes has posted is pretty clear about that. This will in turn affect the resistance and the way it heats up/transfers heat. A longer, thinner wire, vs a shorter, thicker wire, of equivalent overall resistance - the longer/thinner wire will disperse heat more widely and evenly throughout the chamber. Also, if you decrease the overall resistance, it is should be easier to get that wire hot quickly and cooled down quickly. Some people personally have an easier time working with thicker wire, so to each their own - I don't think there's clear "best" way of doing this.

 

[StonerSloth]

So I'm vaping with titanium and 18 gauges and It seems like the more metal I have in my build the lower the temp I can vape with. Now is this more based on resistance or heat capacity?

The answer to this will depend on how your mod is regulating the temperature and a bunch of other factors.

There are so many factors involved - coil material, gauge, shape, power, power/temperature regulation method, heat soak/loss, and then the complicated ones of coil/chamber design and air flow/oven design - that the matrix of possible combinations grows enormous (especially when you consider that the category of 'coil shape' is almost infinite .)

I think that the most important factor in coil design is surface area of the hot heating element. We need to get as much hot metal in contact with as much cold air as possible before it gets to the load. I believe this is the basis of the patent with the Zion heater (which I've never seen but surface area isn't rocket science.) But in a battery-powered device, power consumption comes into play - so you need to find out how much heat/energy is really necessary to get the job done and not throw extra power at it for minimal benefit.

In order to get anywhere meaningful we'd need to control as many of these factors as possible. 1,000 coils on the exact same rig would be a start!


@enjiatt - did you get your Bulli yet??? I'm waiting patiently on your behalf. I really hope you bought more than one!!! I broke one of my posts clear off the base hahahahha

=====

I got a Firewood capsule/mouthpiece rigged up to an undrilled Bulli heater cover with silicone tubing. I can screw this right on top of my Bulli heating chamber and it works very very well! Maybe as well as the Underdog stem, although it's a bit more 'fiddly' than just filling a regular glass stem. On the 'portable' side of things, the Firewood capsule is maybe 2 or 3mm too tall to fit inside the Bulli stainless oven with the drip tip adapter installed. I could sand down the drip tip adapter but there is less than 2mm between the bottom of the adapter and the o-ring groove aghhhh............

 

[enjiatt]

THanks guys I was just trying to understand. Its all still a little confusing. In the vape world they have the addition of e-juice to consider and we do not. SO it is difficult to research low ohm applications for purposes of convection style heating.

@StonerSloth This is my thinking also. I have a rx200 and a dna 200 which both are three battery mods. I should be able to power some thick metal for a while. So for my specific purposes I want something that can power through a bowl with minimal stirring. The ss430 I have hopefully can help me with the gigantic heating element.

I dont know how you guys can build so small on the bulli!!! thats crazy. I will say that because the metal is so thin I think this would be perfect for a 20 or 22 gauge ti build. I think less heat is needed for the bulli. @StonerSloth let me know if you want to take it off my hands.

Im liking the firewood capsules a lot right now. SO far This whole build is getting very close to the size that I need it to be. Just a few more tweaks and it will be there. Im going with the orchid v6 platform for a little while because it is easier for lower gauge and the v6 has a removable chimney top and is 15mm which can be nice!!!

Left is cut from a crap pipe, middle is from the e-nano long stem, right is firewood capsule. Each work very well. The firewood stem and the crack pipe glass are best for 1-2 people because of the ID. I think the e-nano stem would be better if you need more herb cooked.

when using the e-nano glass I have to use 1/2 ID x 5/8 OD silicon and I have a screen wedged between it. (which is really easy will silicone hose.)

This is the firewood stem which goes right on to the 3/8 ID x 1/2 OD silicon with a screen wedged inbetween.

When I have the whole rda put together like this I get a really really cool vape. I think the air gap inbetween the stem and the mouthpiece must do that.

 

[nondarb]

Vapeusa sent me the wrong unit (a kayfun lite instead of 3.1) but let me keep it. I'm still down the bulk of my order but managed to slap something together on the lite deck with a screw swap.

My first coil was/is with 22 awg stainless, I certainly have a new respect for you guys coil builds. For my first I believe I did OK, it reads .20 ohm and works! However having my cuboid on nickel mode, 40w and anywhere near the suggested ~400°f makes my coil glow red hot. I had to bump it down to 270°!? At any rate turned way down I actually got some pretty good vapor, no scorching but uneven heating primarily due to small coil and massive chamber im imagining. However this is far from its final form.

Any ideas what's causing my weird temp settings? I admittedly didn't tinker long last night so I likely missed something on my cuboid.

 

[enjiatt]

My first coil was/is with 22 awg stainless, I certainly have a new respect for you guys coil builds. For my first I believe I did OK, it reads .20 ohm and works! However having my cuboid on nickel mode, 40w and anywhere near the suggested ~400°f makes my coil glow red hot. I had to bump it down to 270°!? At any rate turned way down I actually got some pretty good vapor, no scorching but uneven heating primarily due to small coil and massive chamber im imagining. However this is far from its final form.

Any ideas what's causing my weird temp settings? I admittedly didn't tinker long last night so I likely missed something on my cuboid.

nothing is messed up at all. nickel has a much higher tcr. If you dont want to use a custom tcr then titanium mode would be best if available. earlier pipes could trick the mod by using titainium in nickel mode to make it hotter. But that is because the TCR values are only off by about 100. the TCR from ss316l should be between 120 and 170 for our application.

So find out how to use custom TCR values and start buy setting it to like 140 and see how that goes.

@nondarb that actually is a 3.1 deck but its one without the holes. I have one with 2 holes and one with 1 hole lol. Hopefully that send you one with holes but that deck is one of the 3.1 style decks.

with a coil that small you will most likely have to make it turn red to get it to do any vaping. I have the kayfun light also. you just need to make a bigger coil. Also once you have a smaller chamber things will work out a little better. Remember that airflow on the chimney is important.

 

[nondarb]

with a coil that small you will most likely have to make it turn red to get it to do any vaping.

I managed surprisingly without, just had to dial it down. Vapor production was actually pretty good for the miniscule load I put in, but it was sandwiched between screens and the heat was pretty uneven.

I went with this coil first because it was ridiculously simple, however I still fumbled installing it! I need to watch some more videos on coil building for sure.

So find out how to use custom TCR values and start buy setting it to like 140 and see how that goes.

Not sure if I need to do firmware update for that or not, but that's for the #'s for when I get it figured out.

that actually is a 3.1 deck but its one without the holes.

Lol, then I wonder what they will be sending me?! They said sorry "oops", I may owe them an apology from the sounds of it. I bought the 3.1 in hopes of using the easier deck to learn on.

I've got two mini es's otw from China along with a mess of wire, washers and other odds and ends. I'll have @Pipes own "Project" in hand long before I'm sure.

 

[StonerSloth]

I dont know how you guys can build so small on the bulli!!! thats crazy. I will say that because the metal is so thin I think this would be perfect for a 20 or 22 gauge ti build. I think less heat is needed for the bulli. @StonerSloth let me know if you want to take it off my hands.

I mean, I will take it off your hands, but I'd really rather see some of your coil creations!!! lol Did you try it at all?? It's not that bad but you need some tweezers and a lot of patience!!! I can send you some coils if you want??

I think it definitely needs a lot less heat than bigger, heavier mods - and I love that. Very energy efficient and easy to take on the road - and definitely not lacking in performance at all. I have started blowing instead of stirring (unscrewing the bowl from the heating chamber first to prevent shit from getting all over my coil, sorta annoying....)

I managed surprisingly without, just had to dial it down. Vapor production was actually pretty good for the miniscule load I put in, but it was sandwiched between screens and the heat was pretty uneven.

I went with this coil first because it was ridiculously simple, however I still fumbled installing it! I need to watch some more videos on coil building for sure.



Not sure if I need to do firmware update for that or not, but that's for the #'s for when I get it figured out.



Lol, then I wonder what they will be sending me?! They said sorry "oops", I may owe them an apology from the sounds of it. I bought the 3.1 in hopes of using the easier deck to learn on.

I've got two mini es's otw from China along with a mess of wire, washers and other odds and ends. I'll have @Pipes own "Project" in hand long before I'm sure.

Check out @Pipes coil building instructions from much earlier in the thread - the coil-in-a-coil design is very effective and has been the basis for all of my most successful builds. Recently I have upped my inner coil diameter from 2.5mm to 3.0mm and it seems to have evened out the heat a bit. The goal is to try to eliminate the hot spot in the middle mostly.

In order to set manual TCR on the Cuboid you will need to update to the latest firmware. It is really easy and they have software for both PC's and Mac's. I am running my 316L coils at TCR=190 (too high? whatever, it works great) and usually around 420-500 deg depending on setup

http://www.joyetech.com/mvr-software/?sid=171

 

[Sand]

Current vapes: eNano, UD, FW3I recently got my firewood (and extra cap +MP), which I partially ordered because of the capsules and this project.

Is there a consensus on decks lately? I'm hoping to spend under $75 on my deck. Is RX200 still considered good? What is a good and inexpensive vendor? Can I swap the set-up around for consuming THC e-juice if I ever get/make some?

Most of these mods can charge the 18650 batteries inside them correct, so an external battery pack like an Anker, could charge this DIY creation "in the field" per se? This is a big limitation of my FW3 if I understand it. I see @paytonpenn using a battery pack in FW3 videos but this merely slows drain and doesn't really charge the unit from my understanding.

@enjiatt Your videos on the DIY rig really impressed me.

@Pipes + @StonerSloth you guys also have been inspiring, the repair-ability and modulare nature of this in combination with the performance looks like it's going to be excellent.

 

[nondarb]

Alright, I've managed to change my TCR settings and build a couple more coils in a sort of cyclone style. Since tinkering with my TCR settings my success has been very limited.. Right now its at 145 and a .32 ohm coil but things seem to be running too cool without getting the coil red hot yet I was able to produce what seemed like considerably more heat with a .20 ohm simple microcoil??

My electrical knowledge and familiarity with ecig mods is extremely limited. The huge range of adjustment is pretty overwhelming at times. Any guidance would be appreciated, I'm running the mod at around 50w but don't really know whether to tinker with it as well.

 

[StonerSloth]

Current vapes: eNano, UD, FW3I recently got my firewood (and extra cap +MP), which I partially ordered because of the capsules and this project.

Is there a consensus on decks lately? I'm hoping to spend under $75 on my deck. Is RX200 still considered good? What is a good and inexpensive vendor? Can I swap the set-up around for consuming THC e-juice if I ever get/make some?

Most of these mods can charge the 18650 batteries inside them correct, so an external battery pack like an Anker, could charge this DIY creation "in the field" per se? This is a big limitation of my FW3 if I understand it. I see @paytonpenn using a battery pack in FW3 videos but this merely slows drain and doesn't really charge the unit from my understanding.

@enjiatt Your videos on the DIY rig really impressed me.

@Pipes + @StonerSloth you guys also have been inspiring, the repair-ability and modulare nature of this in combination with the performance looks like it's going to be excellent.

I will let someone else answer the question about box mods since I've only used two and they are essentially the same internally I think (eVic mini and Cuboid) but they work fine, I have no complaints at all. Most of the ones I have seen have MicroUSB charge ports so you can charge them from anything, portable power pack, car charger, solar panel, whatever. But battery life is great and carrying a spare 18650 is easy enough.

EDIT: PUT IT IN A CASE

Alright, I've managed to change my TCR settings and build a couple more coils in a sort of cyclone style. Since tinkering with my TCR settings my success has been very limited.. Right now its at 145 and a .32 ohm coil but things seem to be running too cool without getting the coil red hot yet I was able to produce what seemed like considerably more heat with a .20 ohm simple microcoil??

My electrical knowledge and familiarity with ecig mods is extremely limited. The huge range of adjustment is pretty overwhelming at times. Any guidance would be appreciated, I'm running the mod at around 50w but don't really know whether to tinker with it as well.

What grade of ss wire are you using? Have you tried running your cuboid on regular 316SS mode? Maybe that is a better/more comfortable place to start since you are not 'tricking' the computer at all?? My cuboid on 316SS mode with a 316SS coil will produce vapor starting at about 550 F and going up from there. Give that a try!

I set my TCR to 145 (like you have) and I get vapor starting at 400 F. 0.34 ohm 22 awg 316L ss wire, coil-in-a-coil design.

 

[Pipes]

Sounds like your there but not letting the unit adjust to the changes. Every time you make a TCR change you should start from scratch. Ohms unlocked, atomizer cooled to room and remove battery to reset the Mod.
Then turn things on and confirm new atomizer. Now lock it. Note the ohms. Set the temp and go for it. With a TCR with SS316 you should start at around 500F and go from there. If all is what I'd expect, turning the temp to 600F should produce a faint pulsing glow. But not bright hot. This is the ideal, safest set-up. Bright hot would indicate you need to bring down the TCR some. Remember to follow the reset procedure to avoid false initial performance.
Caution now as you can go for a higher TCR and work at lower temp numbers will make it easy to accidentally select a higher temp and the coil will run away bright hot and burn out because the resistance will never reach the set corresponding ohms. A correct set up should allow you to go to full temperature (600F) and coil should not run away into red hot. Also, an unlocked ohms can cause this mid session of a load so be careful to remember to lock it.

 

[StonerSloth]

Bulli-Wood version 1.0

Getting the Firewood capsule in the chamber required a little outside the box thinking since it was too tall to fit with the normal Delrin lid/adapter! I eventually realized that standard drip tips fit inside the Firewood capsule. So I got some silicone o-rings from ebay, put them on this stainless drip tip heatsink, and I'm off and running.

The only concern is going to be the small size of the top screen. It's going to get clogged so quickly

 

[Pipes]

BAM!!! Home Run!!! I really like that!

 

[enjiatt]

Hey guys just wanted to show you how quick this extraction can be. So for my favorite tubes are the E-nano tube and the firewood capsule.

My DNA 200 from Wismec comes again on Saturday. Hopefully this one wont break this time.......

@StonerSloth I freaking love that!!! Its perfect lol.

@Sand Most of the manufacturers do not recommend you to charge the batteries through the mod. just get a 2 or 3 battery mod and and external charger and you will be fine.

I always carry my Evic mini as a back up. it actually powers my 1.3 18 gauge build lol. 75W!!! But I have certain batteries that wont even fire my atty.

I usually vape off of my RX200 because the pulsing is much less noticeable on this mod. It feels like mostly straight power. Again mainly because of my low gauge setup.

When i was using the DNA 200 it was fantastic. I think it could easily rival the ZION. yes I said easily.

But I think the cuboid is a good compromise and can do custom TCR. If you don't mind spending the money then id say get the DNA but it isn't necessary.

I let the coil get to a faint glow and I know I am close to a good vape temp.

 

[nondarb]

What grade of ss wire are you using? Have you tried running your cuboid on regular 316SS mode? Maybe that is a better/more comfortable place to start since you are not 'tricking' the computer at all?? My cuboid on 316SS mode with a 316SS coil will produce vapor starting at about 550 F and going up from there. Give that a try!

I set my TCR to 145 (like you have) and I get vapor starting at 400 F. 0.34 ohm 22 awg 316L ss wire, coil-in-a-coil design.

Thanks for the tips, tried same coil on SS mode and found a little more success. Made an odd larger coil reading .36 ohms and it worked even better but SS mode seemed a little too high as did my previous setting of 145. After trying a few settings I've settled on 125, I doubled the silicone on the end of a nano stem and its a perfect fit in the kayfuns chamber.

The stainless body seems to rob a lot of my initial heat, my vapor is whispy until the tank is warm to touch (which is a few seconds of inhaling). I'm looking forward to the mini. Still get some hot spots but rotating the stem seems to solve it pretty well for now. Plan to attempt an @Pipes coil in a coil and maybe a stovetop type coil as well this weekend. Definitely seeing some promise here, probably need to drill out another air hole.

Thanks to all of you guys for inspiration and tips. I read the entire thread initially but may need to reread now that I'm getting a better handle on things and parts trickling in.

 

[StonerSloth]

Thanks for the tips, tried same coil on SS mode and found a little more success. Made an odd larger coil reading .36 ohms and it worked even better but SS mode seemed a little too high as did my previous setting of 145. After trying a few settings I've settled on 125, I doubled the silicone on the end of a nano stem and its a perfect fit in the kayfuns chamber.

The stainless body seems to rob a lot of my initial heat, my vapor is whispy until the tank is warm to touch (which is a few seconds of inhaling). I'm looking forward to the mini. Still get some hot spots but rotating the stem seems to solve it pretty well for now. Plan to attempt an @Pipes coil in a coil and maybe a stovetop type coil as well this weekend. Definitely seeing some promise here, probably need to drill out another air hole.

Thanks to all of you guys for inspiration and tips. I read the entire thread initially but may need to reread now that I'm getting a better handle on things and parts trickling in.

Looking good!!! Try upping the power to 50-60 Watts and don't be worried about running a higher temp or a higher TCR - you are not going to hurt anything. At absolute worst you will combust, but as long as you have enough air flow that's pretty unlikely.

Like @Pipes said, I usually set my TCR to where the coil glows pretty red at 600 F and then back off from there. Getting the coil to glow is a great way to understand your heat distribution and watch your mod regulate glowing coil temp - a TC box mod is really an impressive piece of equipment, especially for <$40!!!

During normal operation, my coil is usually not glowing, sometimes a very dull glow in the center coil.

@enjiatt - That Kayfun 3.1/Nano setup performance looks awesome!!!!

 

[nondarb]

I think it could easily rival the ZION. yes I said easily.

Not to be negative but I'm not sure anyone's build thus far even competes with the milaana (RBT's single batt unit), @IAmKrazy2 beta video was shot in daylight with a light (snowy weather!) background and still blows every video I've seen in this thread out of the water. Same with the Zion videos.. Then again were comparing a DIY 510 build with wire coils to a purpose built production vaporizer with a beastly proprietary heating element with considerably more mass.

 

[StonerSloth]

Not to be negative but I'm not sure anyone's build thus far even competes with the milaana (RBT's single batt unit), @IAmKrazy2 beta video was shot in daylight with a light (snowy weather!) background and still blows every video I've seen in this thread out of the water. Same with the Zion videos.. Then again were comparing a DIY 510 build with wire coils to a purpose built production vaporizer with a beastly proprietary heating element with considerably more mass.

Yea, I don't like to make claims/comparisons unless I have first hand experience with the devices I'm talking about... I only say the Bulli can rival the Underdog because I use it right along side two Underdogs.

I've never used the RBT products, but I did just watch IamKrazy2's Milaana water video and I can say that my Bulli builds produce more/denser vapor than I see in that video.

Videos and photos are so difficult to use as a comparison tool since every video is shot with a different camera, different lighting, etc. - so I don't think we can really make firm comparisons based on videos.

But this (from earlier in the thread) is a freshly cleaned FC-UFO (pretty huge) against a white-ish wall and you can barely even see the downstem. Essentially white-walled. No pre-heating at all!

=============

I should have my Aromamizer V2 before the end of the day. I have some free time this afternoon so hopefully it comes sooner rather than later. Looking forward to building on this enormous deck - my biggest so far!!

 

[nondarb]

Yea, I don't like to make claims/comparisons unless I have first hand experience with the devices I'm talking about... I only say the Bulli can rival the Underdog because I use it right along side two Underdogs.

I've never used the RBT products, but I did just watch IamKrazy2's Milaana water video and I can say that my Bulli builds produce more/denser vapor than I see in that video.

Videos and photos are so difficult to use as a comparison tool since every video is shot with a different camera, different lighting, etc. - so I don't think we can really make firm comparisons based on videos.

But this (from earlier in the thread) is a freshly cleaned FC-UFO (pretty huge) against a white-ish wall and you can barely even see the downstem. Essentially white-walled. No pre-heating at all!

I'll have my milaana soon and plan to continue tinkering on this route. We'll see, but I think it may be a little grandiose making these claims. I've got 9 other (production +2 diy) vapes and 2 on the way, once I get my 510 stuff down a little more I may make some comparisons..

I agree pictures aren't good indicators of vapor production, I've whitewalled large pieces with the arizer solo and herbstick eco (proof in both respective threads) and neither are particularly productive units, it was down to technique and draw speed.

The aromamizer seems pretty exciting look forward to your progresses with it, bumping my build to 50w seemed to warm it up a bit faster. Even got some milky hits through my bubbler but can tell my coil for this deck is still a little anemic, I'm unsure where exactly to drill out for more air holes without damaging unit but it seems like I could use another small one for the time being.

I believe the kayfuns will always be inferior to the bulli due to the thick walls of the SS, it simply robs too much heat off the start. I'm hoping the issue is less problematic with the minis OTW. I really like your bulli-wood combo since it still *appears* to be a normal atty, I'm not a fan of capsule systems but could see benefits in this particular build. My ideal final form would be a unit that looks just like a normal atomizer that's quick enough to maintain the illusion in public.

 

[KeroZen]

Well I don't want to ruin the myth, and I love my Zions so much that they cured my VAS at least for now... But from what I've read and seen in this thread you guys seem to have seriously powerful mods and 50W sounds about right to produce monster rips!

Of course there are many factors at play for the heater like size, longevity, efficiency, inertia, exchange capacity and more, but convection is no rocket science, we just try to heat some passing air fast enough. In fact I've read some ideas here (proposed by some members but apparently not investigated) that would get you even closer to Zion land.

But I think the beauty of RBT's tech lies in the fact that he managed to align the stars perfectly to yield something that works so well without having to rely on complex electronics. With your modern TC boxes that are fully regulated you should be able to even surpass that. Yet as you have all experienced, the heater is only a part of the vaporizer. What happens downstream after the heater is equally if not more important.

 

[enjiatt]

Hey guys dont want to start a claim and then everyone start thinking that I said that our DIY is better then the Zion which I DID NOT SAY lol.

I still say that I think our DIY atomizer can stand up to the zion on the same playing field.

@nondarb Tell me this video isnt proof of the vapor quality and speed that we have the potential to have. This is with my DNA200. using the e-nano stem and the arizer dome bowl

also if I have my heating coil about 10mm away from the heating element and only go up 10 degrees more on the DNA I can get a really even draw. Ill do a 1 hit video and show you how even this thing can vape. BTW the DNA is really really nice, I mean its great lol.

 

[StonerSloth]

My largest coil to date - 0.72 ohm 22awg 316L ss - 4.0mm diameter inner coil, a mini stovetop (shaped by hand) and then a 10.5mm (!) outer coil.

The burn-in procedure ran a little hot on this one as you can see, but it works amazingly well, even with the massive air flow control on fully open.

This setup does cook pretty evenly, but I can't really say whether that is due to the "cyclone" action or not lol.

Thanks to @E0x for finding this atomizer.

 

[nondarb]

My largest coil to date - 0.72 ohm 22awg 316L ss - 4.0mm diameter inner coil, a mini stovetop (shaped by hand) and then a 10.5mm (!) outer coil.

The burn-in procedure ran a little hot on this one as you can see, but it works amazingly well, even with the massive air flow control on fully open.

This setup does cook pretty evenly, but I can't really say whether that is due to the "cyclone" action or not lol.

Neat! Digging the posts on that one, all the better for that monster coil! I've been thinking about airflow all day, one of my favorite designs is the triihouse lily. The "turbulence" holes are located between the load and heat intake and are staggered ever so slightly to help create a tumble effect which in turn cooks the load more evenly.. At any rate I think I might need to sacrifice a tank to do a little 'sperimentation to introduce air from both bottom and sides. For now I drilled a hole opposite the factory one and two more 1/16" on the sides of the deck but will likely end up with more or opening these up a bit.

Ended up making a couple split tubes for @Pipes coil in a coil design after making a particularly well working hand formed spiral type and realizing I could likely never duplicate it. At any rate I'm liking the coil in a coil a lot, went with a .6 ohm coil with equal interior and exterior wraps but think I'll add more on the outside next time maybe a little bigger too. Im still getting a hot spot in the center of my nano stem for now.

Lots of tinkering ahead.