@StonerSloth you may have already stopped using 20 gauge but if you are still using it try and raise your wattage a bit. I have to use 80 and above on my rx200 for it to power the coil correctly.
Ive cut up my e-nano long stem into a couple pieces and i'm really liking the 9.20mm ID of the nano stem. With good airflow and I can through a bowl pretty quickly.
Um using a DNA 200 for my mod right now and i'm loving it. Took a while to understand at the beginning but i'm using a TCR or .00166 and vaping at 560F preheat watts are at 140W!! and vaping watts are 35w yes not a typo
35W holds my 20 gauge .224 ohms coils at vaping temp with my DNA.
Although I think the DNA if much better I don't think it is absolutely necessary for this application, my RX200 was working just fine. I will still use the DNA because the profiles make switching atomizers easier.
Which reminds me. Switching out the battery while atomizer is still really hot is not a good thing at times. If the resistance is too far different from the previous read, then the ohms measurement can go up. Your unit will run very hot until you let it cool down and then the unit resets to the correct resistance value. Just an odd side effect I found. This is what makes zeroing in on correct TCR numbers so tricky as well. Every time you change the number to test, you should start from a cold (room temp) condition. Can be a little time consuming but once achieved it's history.
Yah this part gets annoying pretty quick but you learn how to deal with it. Ive realized if you are using the some material wire and same gauge it is pretty easy to tell how much resistance your coil will be around by just looking at it. But I usually build and then put it on the ohm meter to check the resistance. I still don't see a problem using the addy to check the resistance but you need to have an idea of what its going to be.
If you get what I'm talking about, your coil will never run away on you and become red. I dont even look at my temp setting unless it's at the right calibration. I assume that a .12 change in ohms should be consistent with all ss316 but it could varry with coil sizes. But it shouldn't, if the coils are identical to my .49 coil.
I also figured out on my cuboid that if I lock at .49ohms, I turn it on and it reads higher then what is locked, let's say .55, if I pulse till the ohms catch up to that number, it will calibrate and not kick me out of TC.
I only have two atomizers im using in rotation right now but I make sure they are very close to the same resistance. So for instance my kayfun 3.1 with a black base is .224 ohms and my silver base 3.1 is .223 ohms. Since my mod has presets (dna 200) I just always keep the resistance the same and I have a profile that has the right temp for each base I use and I keep the TCR and the Resistance the same.
This makes switching addys easy. If I ever use my rx200 which is essentially a more powerful mini, then if I ever put a hot atty on it will say "new coil?" I just say no and make sure it still at the right ohms.
It's working fine, the issues I'm having are more airflow related in getting an even vape of the material. This is me vaping at 350F coil temp (well that's what the cuboid says) so the resistance change isn't very high, where as if I pump up the temperature it's a much bigge change and combustion at like 390-400F.
I'm not shorted anywhere in the coil, spent a long time sorting that out before, and I'm not locked anywhere usually. Only ever use the lock if I have to remove the atty mid session.
Edit: also, I would take any results I have right now very lightly. Everything changes constantly it's seeming, with changing draw speed/pack ammount I'm able to vape with the cuboid set to 390 without combusting. I'll need a good week or so (at least) of playing with it to get this down pat. Also I really need to find some borosilicate glass tube and some stainless tube to play with.
And lastly, where are you guys getting the clear plastic (silicone I assume) tube?
For the tubing USplastic just like
@Pipes said. Use the pay for shipping later option and say you want USPS priority shipping and it will come faster for cheaper if you are in the US. UPS ground can be slow lol. Size tubing will depend on your stems you decide to use. But here are the sizes I use, you have to buy in 10 feet intervals from usplastic
1. Silicon 5/16" ID 7/16" OD AT TEN FEET $9.10
2. Silicon 3/8" ID 1/2" OD AT TEN FEET $10.10
3. USPS Shipping $5.83
@donnyp Im telling you right now if you
keep your resistance locked Then you will pretty much never combust. Trust me I was like you wondering why I combusted sometimes and other times I did not. I only combust now if my screen setup is messed up for some reason. I think all you honestly need to know is when your room temp resistance is. Once you know that just make sure your mod is always locked at that resistance.
@donnyp By the way when I was twisting wires I noticed that I just couldnt get great vaping consistency and it took a lot of effort from the mod. This is why I just use thick wire but 22 gauge seems to be good for the evic mini users. It looks like you are about to experiment. Just want to give you a few helpful hints.
1. Good airflow. One experiment I like to do it after a build a setup ill fire it and let the oils come off then ill draw without any herb to see how the heat is coming through. This will really teach you have much airflow you need. I noticed (AT THE SAME TEMP AND SETUP) that when I added two more holes that the heat to my tongue was much greater with more holes. But be sure to not add too much air.
2. Make the entire heating element diameter small. I think for our mods available for TC that a 16mm heating chamber would probably be the max area that you need. To get up the the right temps everything around the heating element needs to be heat soaked. So if you say use a 22mm addy but the chimney section is 14mm OD then that whole chimney will probably need to reach temp before you will start seeing vapor. So dont be like me and make it too big.
3. Using glass is my favorite because the taste is really nice. If you are going to use glass buy silicone asap, it will save your life lol. Also glass gets hot. SO if you want a glass mouth piece then you need to put silicone over it or it will burn you.
4. using glass: You need to know your sizes.
Dont buy glass viles, They are way too thin and are super easy to break. You want your thickness to be at least 1.5mm which would be an overall thickness of 3mm. For instance the e-nano stem is 9.20mm ID, and 14.00mm OD . Therefore this glass is most likely really close to a 2.5mm or 2.3mm thickness which you would double and get around 5mm.
You essentially need to build your coil and then mount it up and then carefully reshape the coil with tweezers lol. It's the only way! It takes a lot of patience - keeping your Nano close at hand may help.
but for right now I have fallen back on the old faithful 0.31 ohm 22awg 316L ss coil with the 4 x 1/16" air holes. A powerhouse at even 50W. Amazing on-the-go setup with Delrin wide bore drip tip on eVic mini. So small!!! And possibly unbeatable! 
It LOOKS like that drip tip hole is maybe 12-14mm (the drip tip itself is 16mm OD, so I'm estimating from the photo) so it may be the perfect mate for a glass stem or maybe the Firewood capsule. I will report back once I have it obviously - they claim they are shipping from the US.