Divine Tribe atty's

[invertedisdead]

Hey guys. Thanks to a fellow FC buddy I am back up and running with amy V2.7 and V3.0 DT setups. I miss my Evic mod but the Eleaf he hooked me up with isn't bad. The 3.0 only has the large donuts and I liked the medium a bit better. Before I buy some medium donuts for the V3.0 can you guys compare it to the miracle S? I know what thread this is but I want to know from guys who use both that and the DT atty.

I'm not sure if anyone on here has a miracle S, I've only seen it discussed on Reddit. Everything I've read suggests a trade off of convenience in the miracle S versus taste in the v3.

It seems more like an alternative to pre filled carts in that you don't need to thin the concentrate. Might be worth having, but different enough from the v3 to serve another role.

 

[whatavape]

I'm heating up to an indicated 390F before hitting and hitting it 'slow and steady'. A good 'heat soak' (or a couple of initial hits) and best vapor seems half a minute or so (maybe a bit more) from that point. You have to keep an eye on time to keep resetting the timer so the 10 second limit doesn't shut you off. In practice I reset every five seconds or so when hitting. Keeping that up for a ten minute session (sixty resets minimum) is not a useful mode IMO. A minute or two and your thumb is tired and that tiny load is spent anyway?

OF

I'm wondering if a DNA mod would be better for the DC v2. If you remember back when I was hopelessly focusing on the original "old" large donuts on my vt75, I talked a bit about preheat and how you could set your timer in escribe (for DNA75 or DNA200 devices). I'm pretty sure there is no limit to this, so you could potentially choose, say, 20-30 seconds and not have to button mash. I know it goes up to at least 15 seconds, since this was an arbitrary number I started with. Much too long for the v3, but might be just right for the DC v2. Now to get me one and try it!

Some say the joyetech devices have a poor refresh rate on the ohm-meter and the DNA boards are supposedly way better. We're all repeating and passing that info around but where are the facts now?

I can't speak for joyetech devices since I've never owned one. But I do know a fair amount about the software side of the DNA devices, and they have a relatively high refresh rate (at least on the 200 chips - I never worked with the 75's in my office, they weren't out yet) and this was a major selling point early on - at least 5 years ago, no other software was close. There have, I'm sure, been improvements since then, but there's also a reason that DNA devices tend to be $$$$$ even compared to other current devices. For a qualitative comparison, I'll note that all (5) of my Tesla Stealth TC40's oscillate wattage MUCH more than my vt75 - they will jump from 5-12W or so (I run medium donuts exclusively in them @16.0-16.5W) once temp has been reached. The vt75, however, very quickly flattens out (less than 1s after hitting temp). Not purely scientific, but there's a reason my vt75 was >$60 without a battery and the Teslas were around $25/ea., with battery (LiPo).

Lovin the DNA Mods. Have the VT75 Nano as well as bigger brother VT75.
The DNA chipset seems to handle a broader range of builds in a more stable manor. Maybe it's the sample rate or preset PID might have a more intelligent algorithm..? Not clear but the monitor graphing is generally spot on when using the software to see whats happening.
What makes it really cool is the way you alter the TCR number. Not restricted to just altering the slope from room temperature to the end of the scale. But can change two spots along the curve to change the linearity of the curve. In fact the change is done in a dragging the points in a visual graph. The preheat is adjustable by stating how much, and for how long in drop down boxes. All done within Escribe software. Check out the demo.

This is my favorite part - many pages back somewhere there is a screenshot of my curves for the medium and (old) large donuts with my vt75. Since these "slopes" you are changing indicate a change in resistance (dR/dt) / (change in temp) (dT/dt), you are really modifying "how much resistance changes with respect to temperature" at this specific point you're modifying - so you can have these non-linear TCR values, which is WAY more realistic than any other TCR method out there. In reality, absolutely no real-life material has a purely linear TCR so this will "down the line" allow for even more accurate temp control, if more devices utilize this convention. That's the innovation I'd expect to see in the vape world over the next few years... can you tell I love talking about this?

A couple of ideas to throw into the mix: Resistance sensing isn't all that stable and a (safer) cleaning for doughnuts. OK, only one idea and one observation........

I think I've found a better way to burn doughnuts clean in V3 (having lost two trying to pulse power to keep it glowing enough to burn the junk off the surface. I removed the doughnut, clamped both leads in a set of hemostats (AKA 'roach clips') up close as both a handle and heatsink for the leads, then using my handy torch lighter flame it from the outside instead of running the heater extra hard to conduct the heat from the inside (and overtemperaturing the heater). It has the advantage of cleaning the cooler parts where the lead attaches as well as the hotter areas between. I've done it to one medium doughnut twice now and it still seems fine (given my history doing it the normal way I'd probably have broken it at least once......), I recommend it for your consideration. One other thought here, I think blowing on the surface when the deposits start to glow may be helping them to burn off, like blowing on the charcoals in the BBQ? Maybe wishful thinking, but next time I try that again, maybe even more aggressively.

...

Anyway, consider externally flaming the doughnuts. I think it's safer, easier to control and gives superior results (no dark ends)? Your call, of course, and it is not as easy/quick as leaning on the big button and watching it glow (and hoping it doesn't get hurt.....), but it's easier, cheaper and faster than ordering replacements from Matt like I did. Until I find a reason to change, I'm sticking with this idea for a bit.

OF

I have to completely agree with this post (except that this method is slower!).

I never posted because I (incorrectly) thought it had already been mentioned - but I have always torched my donuts for cleaning with the v3 since nearly the beginning.. For me it was a timeliness factor. I really baby my equipment, and was trying to clean my donuts at 12w and taking an hour plus to do it (I batch clean, and have had from 4-8 v3's at any point... 7 now, since the Mrs has possession of one ) and just decided to try it once with an extra donut. When it still fired and hadn't cracked or changed resistance, I just stuck to this method without ever thinking of it. Since I have so many v3's, I only clean every 2 weeks or so since I only use each one once or twice a day (with the exception of my travel Tesla...), but this cut my cleaning time down significantly. I heat in a circle, following the curvature of the donut. When the whole donut is glowing, if there is still burned-on gunk I can confirm that blowing on it works. Then I often reheat again to get it shiny-new white.

One warning I have is that you can easily melt the solder this way. I was testing this method on a (medium) donut that the Mrs blew last night. Holding the torch to the underside of the donut where the solder was (about an inch away) for about 6-8 seconds melted the solder connection and the wire lead nearly fell off. The good news from this is that if you break a lead you could replace it if the donut still works (I'd recommend replacing both in that case).

I am also looking for a device with a smaller profile that I can carry around easily.

I am leaning towards the vtwo mini due to the ability to program the device, but I would love to get some expert advise here :-)

I can't offer an opinion on the vtwo since I don't own one and have never used one. As far as a portable solution, check out the Tesla Stealth TC40. White, black or blue looks great, and I'm sure red too (I don't own a red one). I have 5 Tesla's - two black, two blue and a white. I love them all, in Ni @16-16.5W and 280F. They look like they were made for the v3. See the Tesla with v3 in my post here.

 

[OF]

I have to completely agree with this post (except that this method is slower!).

I heat in a circle, following the curvature of the donut. When the whole donut is glowing, if there is still burned-on gunk I can confirm that blowing on it works. Then I often reheat again to get it shiny-new white.

One warning I have is that you can easily melt the solder this way. I was testing this method on a (medium) donut that the Mrs blew last night. Holding the torch to the underside of the donut where the solder was (about an inch away) for about 6-8 seconds melted the solder connection and the wire lead nearly fell off. The good news from this is that if you break a lead you could replace it if the donut still works (I'd recommend replacing both in that case).

I should have been more clear I guess. It sure takes longer to remove the cover, take out the doughnut and wash it and the cup off before clamping up and torching than changing settings on the mod and pressing the magic button. But for me it's still faster overall since I pussy foot around so much trying to 'self heat' it (I play with it several minutes rather than the 30 or so seconds it takes with a torch for better results). And then, of course more time to put it all back together. Still, because I'm so timid, it's faster (and IMO safer).

Yes, I too get the entire thing uniformly hot, including the 'cold ends' where the leads attached. I agree it's possible to melt the solder bond with the torch, the temperature is high enough, but I don't think it can be done from the top side (I don't heat the bottom at all) with the hemostats clamped tight to the doughnut as a heat sink. I tried pretty hard, but it held just fine.

Thanks for the confirmation about blowing on it, makes sense, Webber BBQ technology and all.

OF

 

[whatavape]

I should have been more clear I guess. It sure takes longer to remove the cover, take out the doughnut and wash it and the cup off before clamping up and torching than changing settings on the mod and pressing the magic button. But for me it's still faster overall since I pussy foot around so much trying to 'self heat' it (I play with it several minutes rather than the 30 or so seconds it takes with a torch for better results). And then, of course more time to put it all back together. Still, because I'm so timid, it's faster (and IMO safer).

Yes, I too get the entire thing uniformly hot, including the 'cold ends' where the leads attached. I agree it's possible to melt the solder bond with the torch, the temperature is high enough, but I don't think it can be done from the top side (I don't heat the bottom at all) with the hemostats clamped tight to the doughnut as a heat sink. I tried pretty hard, but it held just fine.

Thanks for the confirmation about blowing on it, makes sense, Webber BBQ technology and all.

OF

I don't think I ever tried pulsing while still assembled... I was originally tearing it completely down, putting the donut back onto the base, and pulsing that way. Took a long time to disassemble for me either way, like you mentioned. If you are cleaning without any disassembly then this method definitely takes more time. I made the silly assumption that we were all disassembling for cleanup.

I don't do any washup for mine though. I just take them apart, scrape any reclaim up (for later by other methods ) and then use ISO on the ceramic base, mp, and metal base. I just torch away any leftover claim on the donut and cup, individually after separating the two.


On another note - after seeing your post about Matt's hydratubes (and noting my lack of possession of hydratubes - I have plenty of glass but none with openings "downwards") I had to have one. Matt's price for hydratube + adapter + shipping was mouthwatering, so I grabbed one. Couldn't be happier. These are definitely china glass but as I mentioned before they are exactly what you'd expect for the price and definitely a little hidden gem. Even if not for the v3, this thing is pretty sweet. Thanks for that recommendation - I am certainly satisfied!
I am only disappointed that it isn't compatible with my Tesla's due to clearance issues with the top button, but that just means the vt75 is being put through its paces!

 

[Vape Donkey 650]

Hey guys. Thanks to a fellow FC buddy I am back up and running with amy V2.7 and V3.0 DT setups. I miss my Evic mod but the Eleaf he hooked me up with isn't bad. The 3.0 only has the large donuts and I liked the medium a bit better. Before I buy some medium donuts for the V3.0 can you guys compare it to the miracle S? I know what thread this is but I want to know from guys who use both that and the DT atty.

I'm not sure if anyone on here has a miracle S, I've only seen it discussed on Reddit. Everything I've read suggests a trade off of convenience in the miracle S versus taste in the v3.

It seems more like an alternative to pre filled carts in that you don't need to thin the concentrate. Might be worth having, but different enough from the v3 to serve another role.

Interesting.. i had seen this name mentioned, but at first i thought it was a new coil offering for the hvt saionara, (miracle a/b coils) but this is a completely separate 'layg' atty.

Looks cool, def. has some good points to the design. I would compare it to an upgraded puffco+?

Inverted, im wondering why the miracle s would have less flavor? With a ceramic heater and SS coil with TC, i would expect the flavor to be on par with our DTs? How about the cloud production?

Is the flavor suffering bc people load a gram or a large amount and get dozens of hits, with the oil naturally getting melty and reclaimy and degraded along the way?

Im trying to understand and visualize the vapor path on this thing, side exit air path and vapor. Why the grill-like indentations on the floor? For oil storage? Can it leak down here? Seems like it can be hard to clean if you cant 'burn clean' in vw, or maybe even if you can.

Im not trying to postion ourselves as superior vape geeks here, (ok maybe i am) but im not impressed with the info and level of discourse @ reddit. A few good ppl posting, but a lot of flaming, pretentiousness, and general buffoonery, from what ive looked at.

Also, @whatavape, @OF, @KeroZen, others! Arrrgh!!! Too much good stuff going on here! I cant keep up with all the activity on this thread! Now i know how the rest of you feel when i post 3 back-to-back essays, trying to read and process and digest (and reply to?) everything.

There's good posts like 10 pages back ive wanted to comment on, but theres more good posts almost every day! I may have to let that old stuff pass.

@KeroZen, i dont mind at all discussing the myevic software here, and i don't think ppl reading this thread mind the many, frequent, yet relevant tangents we get pulled into. I do think it deserves its own thread for all vapes' use, not just logo changing, if someone wants to start that?

I have installed the myevic on a couple of my joyetech mods with little testing, and i am impressed with all the options and info available!

Real quick on a cleaned 10mm donut, I was noticing big temp overshoots to 500F with the 'sweet' algo and any use of the boost function, (confirmed with IR thermometer) but with stock algo and no boost, the temps do appear a bit more stable, minimal overshoot, usually 5f, with a max, brief 10 - 15f overshoot.

Surely more testing and tweaking to be done, ill come back and post when i have a real keyboard in front of me, (more ?s) but I would encourage TC nerds who like to see lots of info and customizability to check out the myevic. Marginally better TC stability over stock firmware seems possible with myevic, it seems.

 

[invertedisdead]

@Vape Donkey 650 I can't explain why the flavor wouldn't be really good, it sounds clean to me too, but those are the reports I've read. I never read anything about cloud production either, surprisingly. I'd have to try one to really see. As far as I know, the grills are where the oil passes through to heat, like an RDA.

Regarding Reddit, I know what you're saying, it seems a bit high schoolish over there; still - since nobody on here is talking about them it's all I've been able to gather from so far. Quite a few people have been getting them on there in the last week or so.

 

[OF]

Regarding Reddit, I know what you're saying, it seems a bit high schoolish over there; still - since nobody on here is talking about them it's all I've been able to gather from so far. Quite a few people have been getting them on there in the last week or so.

I get what you say about 'lesser Forums', makes a guy really appreciate FC I think.

While I understand why you'd be tempted to look for information on other vapes you're considering I don't think this is really the right place for it. Rather, I think, it would get you better coverage on the 'Ask FC' thread. Broader audience there (over half don't read the portables, let alone this obscure thread about other things in a side Forum (where I don't really think it belongs, really.....Gen 2 is a vape, it just needs a mod rather than a power cord or lighter to run).

Being new, I bet owners of V3 are even less likely than average to try an alternative? Anyway, I suggest you post a 'anybody got experience with XXX' thread on the Ask FC Forum and see who shows up?

OF

 

[invertedisdead]

Good point @OF
@mrbonsai420 you might try posting in Ask FC about the Miracle S.

 

[Jaguar]

@invertedisdead - I did see your post from earlier in the thread and bookmarked the link. That's an awesome deal and I am going to be ordering from there for sure. Thanks for posting the link again - appreciate it!

Thanks again for the link. I placed an order earlier today and it's been shipped already. One last noobie question: given that I am new to concentrates, what form of concentrate would be best suited for the eVic Basic + DTv3 combo?

 

[looney2nz]

Thanks again for the link. I placed an order earlier today and it's been shipped already. One last noobie question: given that I am new to concentrates, what form of concentrate would be best suited for the eVic Basic + DTv3 combo?

I know Vape Donkey and I do a lot of CO2 oils, I've also used some shatter, wax, butter and even some live resin.

 

[KeroZen]

Hey folks! myevic and derivatives discussion will happen in this new dedicated thread.

Please don't forget to subscribe if you are interested! Thank you.

 

[whatavape]

Thanks again for the link. I placed an order earlier today and it's been shipped already. One last noobie question: given that I am new to concentrates, what form of concentrate would be best suited for the eVic Basic + DTv3 combo?

I'm typically using shatters and waxes but have also gone through a bit of CO2 oil - obviously the cleaner the concentrate, the cleaner your donut will stay (but that is relative, even the CO2 oils get them dirty!), but you're going to have good results with any concentrates that get the job done, I'd think.

 

[just_the_flu]

...i gave up on "oil pens"/"portable concentrate devices" because none had ever seemed to last (attys)..

...after going the enail route which seemed more economical i still jones for concentrates on the go..

...i continuously read post after post in ANY thread about concentrates/devices/pens/etc DIVINE TRIBE + BOX MOD... and for the price less than any other device on the market (worth looking at) i thought it was a no brainier...

...WOW... i wish i tried this combo before saying everything bad about portable devices for concentrates... I've had my DTv3 for a week and a half now and have cleaned it twice... atty looks brand new!! it comes with 2 replacement donuts but i can only see needing them when the wires break...

...i'm in love with concentrates on the go again!!!

 

[papapotbelly]

FWIW I had the Miracle A and B type, but not the S. I found that the ceramic being porous, it was REALLY Hard to keep clean, so each hit just tasted worse and worse as the trapped reclaim stuck in there and burnt.

They say you can dry burn it clean, but I found that if you try to dry burn it to get it clean, it gets too hot and fries the leads or cracks the ceramic.

It was cool to be able to drop in .5 and not have to load if you were at like a concert all day or something, but the BB pre-loading technique and bigger donuts on the V3 kind of make that argument not hold water for me (plus the taste), so I just didn't grab a new coil the last time it "popped". Plus, can't beat Matt's customer service.

Yes, @OF and @whatavape, I too torch the cup and donut clean. It works great. I use a little "crème brulee" torch instead of my main Rig torch to make sure I don't crack it or melt the solders on the leads. I hold it by one lead with my ceramic tipped vape tweezers.

I soak the Hydratube, adaptor, and metal base in PBW then a quick wipedown with Q-tips for problem areas. Works great. Actually made me start using Donuts as my daily driver again (I was getting frustrated with the leaking and reclaim, but it's dialed in now)

 

[invertedisdead]

There's no way any of those 510 eRig type glass pieces work with the v3 right? Would be cool to use the v3 as a ceramic enail.

 

[looney2nz]

There's no way any of those 510 eRig type glass pieces work with the v3 right? Would be cool to use the v3 as a ceramic enail.

Matt has an 18mm adapter for it

 

[invertedisdead]

Matt has an 18mm adapter for it

I mean like one of these. To turn the v3 into a portable all ceramic rebuildable temp controlled portable enail. The hydratube adapters are cool, but something about dabbing on a preheated nail makes the effect last way longer. The v3 already tastes good and has large surface area so it's the perfect candidate. I think reclaim would be reduced also as the concentrate would want to vaporize instead of splatter or run, and since the donut would already be hot, if it did run underneath it should vaporize instead of run away and collect.

 

[papapotbelly]

I mean like one of these. To turn the v3 into a portable all ceramic rebuildable temp controlled portable enail. The hydratube adapters are cool, but something about dabbing on a preheated nail makes the effect last way longer. The v3 already tastes good and has large surface area so it's the perfect candidate. I think reclaim would be reduced also as the concentrate would want to vaporize instead of splatter or run, and since the donut would already be hot, if it did run underneath it should vaporize instead of run away and collect.

Yes, A few cats were doing this closer to the release of the V 2.5-2.7. The 510 glass pieces are too big, but you can either put thin silicone tubing around the base of the V3 to beef it up, or put larger diameter silicone tubing on the outside of both the glass and the base to hold them together (see Vape Donkey's "SOG" creations for ideas).

It works best on the mouthpiece of the V3 though if I recall correctly, so that would block you from dabbing into it.

I would love to figure this out for vacations, day trips, etc. as I love as you say, having a preheated nail to dab "into" as well as the V3.

 

[invertedisdead]

Yes, A few cats were doing this closer to the release of the V 2.5-2.7. The 510 glass pieces are too big, but you can either put thin silicone tubing around the base of the V3 to beef it up, or put larger diameter silicone tubing on the outside of both the glass and the base to hold them together (see Vape Donkey's "SOG" creations for ideas).

It works best on the mouthpiece of the V3 though if I recall correctly, so that would block you from dabbing into it.

I would love to figure this out for vacations, day trips, etc. as I love as you say, having a preheated nail to dab "into" as well as the V3.

Since Matt already has the hydratube adapter with the proper diameter to fit the o rings on the housing, we just need one of those 510 water tubes with the connecter replaced with the same size as the hydratube adapter.

I'm thinking a glass blower should be able to remove the connecting end and replace it with the v3 hydratube adapter, than remove the joint so it's open ended but fits the v3 housing. If that makes sense. It looks like the 18mm female would be the best to have it done.

 

[DarkSm0ke]

Hey guys, been lurking through this thread for a while. Just got a v3 in the mail today. I have a pico 75w with the latest firmware update. Anybody have an idea what is a good TCR value and temp and wattage setting for my mod and the V3. I saw a lot of info around 20 pages back but I was wondering if anyone can give me a quick answer. I am dying to try this thing and all that info is a bit hard to digest at the moment. Thank you!

 

[invertedisdead]

I use TCR 300 30 watts 370-450F large donut.

 

[OF]

Anybody have an idea what is a good TCR value and temp and wattage setting for my mod and the V3.

My current setting (really unchanged....):
Large doughnut: P=18 Watts, m=170, clean @24 Watts
Medium doughnut: P=12.5 Watts, m=245, clean at 17 Watts

In both cases I 'dial up' 390F and reach limit in less than 10 seconds. Care in 'pulsing' power in cleaning is needed, I've trashed a couple. Therefore I've taken to torching them clean. FWIW I use the same power and TCR values with V2.5/2.7.

OF

 

[Vape Donkey 650]

Hey guys, our @Tribal Chieftain just posted this up on his youtube, a nice, vapey demonstration of one of my artisanal, "Vape Donkey" dual ceramic donut coil heads for the CUBIS series of RTAs. This vape system has been working great for me with co2 oils on temp control mods for a few months already. Matt is taking this to the next level filling his tank with a very runny HTFSCE. With such rich input materials, not surprisingly, he's told me the flavor experience is amazing. But it is good to know my coils are handling such terpy oils with great effectiveness! It looks like on this demo, he's dialed it into VW mode, around 29w, for old-school cloudyness in the kitchen!

This is a vid of that runny HTFSCE he poured in there.

We are going to try to come up with a good, mass-producable design for a top-airflow, leak resistant RTA optimized for thick cannabis oils like co2, htfsce, distillates, and DIY wax solutions also. Those of us who demand high-quality vapor feel very let down by the crappy little tanks that the market wants us to vape cannabis fluids on, and existing sub-ohm RTA gear is often not well suited to the thick type of fluids we want to vape. I can't hand-build these for everyone, so I hope we can come up with a good tank and coil head design so everyone can enjoy such richness in a tank!

Also, let's welcome into the world...Matt Jr. ! (Matilda? Mattea? Madeline? IDK haha) A beautiful baby gurl. Let's hope Matt can be as good a parent as a vape business-guy, without depriving us dab fiends of his creative energies also? Congrats

 

[DarkSm0ke]

Thank you @OF an @invertedisdead ! I appreciate all of the info and will use it wisely

 

[looney2nz]

Congratulations to Matt & his women

ok, so now I know he actually LIKED it, his e-mail wasn't clear

I LOVE this tank. Just wish I could refill as fast as I want

Going to set up the 2nd one by this weekend.

Vape Donkey is a craftsman