Divine Tribe atty's

[OF]

@OF
Also I don't follow this thread much so I don't know where you guys stand, but over in the Project thread we all switched to the "myevic" open source firmware for our joyetech devices. It offers a new PID algo and much improved TC stability.

So I finally got around to trying this out (thanks again @KeroZen). Lots of fun stuff for geeks to play with (half of which I haven't messed with.....), and it fixes a personal pet peeve: The stupid "Art Deco" clock. It's hard enough reading the time on that rascal without making a round dial square on a whim. The software author is right when he said his (round) clock was "close to the one viewed on the VTwo box; just better, imo."

And you can enjoy the clock when using TCR mode, factory only allows this in fixed power or voltage due to screen use?? The myevic fixes this elegantly.

I'm not sure about the stability part, I see the occasional 500 plus temperature flash past when it's supposed to be under 390...... I suspect that's some artifact of hardware, but both SW sets would have to deal with it. Such sensor errors could dominate that stability thing? And moreover there's damping in the load going on, the temperature indication isn't the load temperature (no sensor there). Both sets are, I think, sufficiently stable for everyday use.

However, the timing is very lucky. Because I'm also fiddling with the Gen 2 herb cart it was natural to use that rather than V3. This meant switching my Gen 2 cart around between mods. This uncovered another TC issue that needs consideration: It seems Gen 2 is much more sensitive to exact temperature than V3 or the other DT offerings for concentrates.

To me this makes some sense from an output POV. You can 'dab' concentrate on scary hot surfaces without serious issue. In fact, I hear some guys even like doing that. The heater being say 20 or even more degrees hotter would not even be noticed? The concentrate is just going to boil away, holding the surface temperature down most likely in the process. Not so a herb cart. 20 degrees is the difference between smooth sailing and combustion. With little evaporation taking energy away, the surface will get hotter and hotter. Not what we want.

So, I think a critical factor is the 'cold' (saved) temperature. The one 'locked in'. The mod calculates the number of degrees rise to the target (say 390F minus seventy for 320 degree rise needed?). That is then multiplied by the 'percent per degree' factor, the "m" value. In my case it's 245. That's in a strange numbering system (divide by 100,000 not the 'more metric' even million....). This means for each degree, the resistance will go up (down if the TC were negative) by '245/100,000'.....almost exactly 1/4 of a percent. Most metals are in that range, .3 something for Copper IIRC. Any way, somewhere in here we have to correct for those upstarts and convert from degrees F to C (since the 'percent per degree' number is already in C). This means multiplying by 5 and dividing by nine since there are 180 degree F (32 to 212) and 100 C (0 to 100) from melting to boiling for water (this is the scale factor, no need for offset correction here). So we have 177 degrees C change times .245 % per degree C multiplied together (the 'degrees C parts cancel) and we're left with 43.8% increase.

If it 'remembers' say .80 Ohms, it's looking for that same .80 plus 43.8% more for 1.15 Ohms (.35 Ohms more). That's what it sees the goal to be, heat to there. A resistance calculated against memory and settings.

But, if there's an error of say .05 Ohms, nearly trivial and common, this can be an issue I think. 6.25%. On our 320 degree rise that's a 20F error. Over two full steps on Solo? That might not be too big a deal with concentrate or juice, but with herb it's a significant difference. My experience is 'resetting' the atty will often make it produce better with the numbers I'm using. That is it can 'run cold' only to improve by unlocking and resetting to a lower cold reference resistance (lower 'locked' value). Often by a few tenths of an Ohm. FWIW the exact same cart can read different values on another mod, often does. But since control is relative there, I suspect that part doesn't matter much?

Happy Friday to the wage slaves, best regards to all.

OF

 

[KeroZen]

Yeah much toying around to do with the myevic firmware. It's better but still not a panacea, at least out of the box. We're clearly pushing the limits and the devs are not considering our weird use case, they never ever dry fire (in fact most ecig users just use TC to prevent said dry burns, and the temperature is there to get a power setting but they don't care if it's accurate or not like we do)

I do see some overshoot too with my initial tests, be it using the "smooth" algo (or forgot how it's called? soft?) and also with the "PID" algo. I fetched some PID coefs from the Project thread but they are clearly not optimal. From cold I get a huge overshoot, so I have to do a 2 seconds prewarm then release. From that point I can hold the trigger and it stays regulated properly.

More testing is needed!

 

[OF]

We're clearly pushing the limits and the devs are not considering our weird use case, they never ever dry fire (in fact most ecig users just use TC to prevent said dry burns, and the temperature is there to get a power setting but they don't care if it's accurate or not like we do)

Good perspective, we're riding along on what was a safety system. Like the 'T&P' (safety valve) on the top of a water heater, folks weren't all that concerned about accuracy on pressure setting.....plus or minus 50 or 100 PSI would do just fine?

Like lots of 'cutting edge' stuff, it can be sweet when 'working right'. Cool, that. I have a friend who says 'cutting edge technology is where to be, just stay away from the sharp part'. Wise fellow, sometimes.

More testing is needed!

Amen, brother! Ain't it grand? Plenty of 'grunt work' to go around, we need more volunteers......

Under ordinary conditions I'd back breaking down and dividing the tasks, but what's the fun in that?

OF

 

[KeroZen]

Also are we even sure this overshoot wasn't present but masked with the stock firmware? I could clearly see the coil pulse and change wildly in color with some custom DIY attys, with the original firmware that is.

Some say the joyetech devices have a poor refresh rate on the ohm-meter and the DNA boards are supposedly way better. We're all repeating and passing that info around but where are the facts now? @Pipes didn't you finally order a DNA-based box recently?

I'd like to see some hard evidence for or against that claim. I also wonder to what extent said refresh rate could be improved in software now that we have an open-source base to work on. I hope to find some time to dive into it later on, but so many things to do and so little time...

 

[Pipes]

Lovin the DNA Mods. Have the VT75 Nano as well as bigger brother VT75.
The DNA chipset seems to handle a broader range of builds in a more stable manor. Maybe it's the sample rate or preset PID might have a more intelligent algorithm..? Not clear but the monitor graphing is generally spot on when using the software to see whats happening.
What makes it really cool is the way you alter the TCR number. Not restricted to just altering the slope from room temperature to the end of the scale. But can change two spots along the curve to change the linearity of the curve. In fact the change is done in a dragging the points in a visual graph. The preheat is adjustable by stating how much, and for how long in drop down boxes. All done within Escribe software. Check out the demo.

Now the "myevic" can be adjusted to be very close in performance, it's the PID to match your specific build is the key. Playing with the PID (Proportional, Integral, Derivative) can be a bitch but fruitful when you get it right.
I do believe the EVic stock had the preheat a little high but also remember it seemed different with each firmware release. As with TCR presets.
Hope that helps.

Oh yeah, if you want to kill the preheat, try P-1600, I-80 and D-0

 

[Haywood]

Now the "myevic" can be adjusted ...

Been meaning to thank you for this! As a very happy Joyetech user (two Basics and a Mini), your firmware is the cat's meow.

Or something like that.

 

[Pipes]

Thanks @Haywood , I'd like to be the author of this firmware but I'm just another lucky user spreading the word.
The credit goes to ClockSelect in the GitHub forum. He/she's the one that started posting the open source code. It's still changing on a weekly basis with different stuff and bug fixes. Here, we have a few guys that will do alterations to the firmware to better fit our needs. Like temperature offsetting and alike.
We could maybe use this thread for firmware questions as not to derail this thread. As mentioned, the myevic firmware information is getting scattered around the forum and a dedicated thread might be justified.

 

[OF]

A couple of ideas to throw into the mix: Resistance sensing isn't all that stable and a (safer) cleaning for doughnuts. OK, only one idea and one observation........

First off, if you have the myevic software loaded, set the fifth line (normally cart current?) to show the coil resistance instead. Not the stored on like on the (hopefully locked) setting displayed as 'coil' in the line above. Then watch it for a bit. It seems worse when the unit is hot? But I've seen it run from .74X Ohms to .80X inside the same minute. That's a lot, really. .06 Ohms out of an average .77? 7.8%. in our case (320F rise) this is an error of 25F........pretty significant. This seems a hardware issue to me, something 'we can fix in software'......maybe? Food for thought.

Secondly I think I've found a better way to burn doughnuts clean in V3 (having lost two trying to pulse power to keep it glowing enough to burn the junk off the surface. I removed the doughnut, clamped both leads in a set of hemostats (AKA 'roach clips') up close as both a handle and heatsink for the leads, then using my handy torch lighter flame it from the outside instead of running the heater extra hard to conduct the heat from the inside (and overtemperaturing the heater). It has the advantage of cleaning the cooler parts where the lead attaches as well as the hotter areas between. I've done it to one medium doughnut twice now and it still seems fine (given my history doing it the normal way I'd probably have broken it at least once......), I recommend it for your consideration. One other thought here, I think blowing on the surface when the deposits start to glow may be helping them to burn off, like blowing on the charcoals in the BBQ? Maybe wishful thinking, but next time I try that again, maybe even more aggressively.

Silver (which we're told is used to braze the leads on (you can see this clearly on the Gen 2 cart heater)) melts at just under 1000C. Common Butane Torches can make like 1300C but don't have much heat capacity so melting even a small bit of silver in the open is nearly impossible. Heat (in calories) is conducted away too fast for temperature (degrees) to get too high. With the SS hemostats drawing heat out the leads I don't think it's possible if you try.....which I'm not. You can do that........

Anyway, consider externally flaming the doughnuts. I think it's safer, easier to control and gives superior results (no dark ends)? Your call, of course, and it is not as easy/quick as leaning on the big button and watching it glow (and hoping it doesn't get hurt.....), but it's easier, cheaper and faster than ordering replacements from Matt like I did. Until I find a reason to change, I'm sticking with this idea for a bit.

Regards to all. We're enjoying still more rain here in 'drought stricken California'. We're at 20 year records for snow packs (twice normal, places that were barren this time last year have 20 feet of pack?). And reservoirs are being dumped left and right (they flooded out the local golf course doing this, seems the old creek couldn't contain the discharge....). The Governor is going to wait until the end of the rainy season (officially two more months), I guess in case all this water and snow mysteriously disappears, before declaring it over. Many of us lost lawns and established major trees (40 feet here....) to the water restrictions......not to worry, golf courses 'down south' got plenty of water to stay green. Sadly the last survey found no live delta smelt (seven captive strains last I knew enjoying taxpayer support). No live fish caught in the last survey, and only a handful the time before. We killed off a lot of established crops (like Almond orchards 30 years old) in the effort to save the obsolete little minnows. Destroyed family businesses, converting crop producing trees to firewood. Sad, but hopefully past. I'm sure we didn't learn the wisdom of building more reservoirs to support more people, we have low flush toilets and showers to install.

Best wishes to you and yours in whatever you face locally. Hopefully good karma will prevail in the end.

OF

 

[Steven]

For cleaning donuts, I have always had success using lower wattage and just repeatedly recycle the power button for like a minute straight or until the donut glows bright cherry red. I let it glow bright red once it gets there for like 3-5 seconds and repeat this 2-3 times until donut is pearly white.

I haven't used the medium donuts in a while but for reference, I used 10w for the v2.5 for cleaning when I used 12w in tc mode for it and 19w for the large v3 for cleaning when I use 21w in tc mode for it . I do not believe in pulsing at high power to clean for reasons you have experienced. I haven't broken any donuts from cleaning for over a year now. The only way I break my donuts are by breaking the leads. I always use a few watts lower than what I vape the donut at in tc mode. It may take a while for the donut to glow at lower power, especially when gunked, but after a few power recycles, it surely will. The only issue with this method is that the pcb temp will be exposed to high temp. One of my mods have reached 115F on the mod readout. That mod is running strong for over a year, so doesn't seem to be too much harm. My 2 cents.

 

[Vape Donkey 650]

Hey @OF, thanks for the review of the myevic software for us donut folks. I've been meaning to dive into that, but it seems like it could take alot of tweaking to get it perform just the way one would like, and the support seems scant, especially for the non-conventional ceramic heaters that our crowd uses?

Also, thanks to @KeroZen and @Pipes for bringing this to our attention and working with the myevic for "our types"

Regarding the stability, sensitivity, accuracy, precision, etc, with the joyetech mods and the myevic software, could it be possible we're hardware limited with the sensitivity and accuracy of the sensors on our TC mods?

With the myevic wanting to sense resistance down the the thousandths (0.00x) and temperature settings to 5*F increments, vs only resolving resistance down to hundredths (0.0x) and temp increments of 10*F for the stock firmware, could it be that the myevic software is too ambitious for the limited hardware capabilities of our TC mods?

Is it possible to downgrade the coil sensitivity to hundredths instead of thousandths and only 10F instead of 5F increments, with myevic, to compensate for the hardware capacities of the joyetech mods?

Also, with this software being more sensitive and customizable, is it possible, with DT donut attys and my evic, to set the parameters on your mod / donut atty, use it, fire it, then set it down and let it rest for hours or days, and then pick it up and simply fire it again and expect it to work just like it did last time?

Or do you have to unscrew / re-attach the atty, turn the mod on and off, check the coil, or do other stuff in between sessions, to get the reliable, good performance we want?

I can see the benefits in different algorithms, and being able to tell the TC to start ramping up more slowly or quickly at certain presets (boost?), for better TC stability and less over-shooting, (probably won't touch the PID) but this seems dependent on sufficient hardware capabilities, and the user being able to set it up properly.

Does the latest myevic run on the eleaf picos or any eleafs? I didn't see those included in the last release notes...

sorry, lots of questions...

@OF, thanks also again with the help with the other questions, too, and yes, many of us are grateful for the rain over here too, but it can also bring up other problems, like finding out the roofs on our houses and cars leak water, but that's easier to fix than a drought Not sure where you're going with the water rant....

but Steven beat me to it. For burning the donut clean, using a lower wattage, the lowest possible watts that can get it to glow red, but holding it down for longer periods instead of pulsing it quickly...

That is the safest, most repeatable and reliable way to get the meniscus as clean as possible. For the medium disc, I use 10w, and you have to cycle the button many times, maybe 40-60 seconds to get it fully clean. The last bits of crust at the cool spot of the donut, near the wire leads, will be the last parts to burn off, but at 10w on the medium donuts, you can hold the power down for minutes at a time, and it won't damage the donut, nor will it make the wires brittle or solders burned or discolored.

You can probably get away with 12w. 17w for burning clean the mediums seems unnecessarily risky, and using a lighter more of a hassle.

I don't use the large donuts since it was switched to higher resistance, but you can probably burn them clean with about 14w or so and be safe still? I'll defer to Steven on that one.

 

[Steven]

Funny to hear others are using my same cleaning methods. My post didn't take to well when I posted this when the v2 was out. Matt and many others here were all suggesting pulsing at higher wattage, so my post was fairly overlooked because of it I think.

 

[Vape Donkey 650]

Nope, maybe others missed it, but I took note.

Seems so distant now even though it's only a few months ago, IIRC, I was burning the v2.5 donuts clean at 12w in VW / "power" mode and this was pretty safe, although since you had to hold the fire button down for a little bit longer, the whole atomizer could get pretty hot, and it could be a little more stress on your mod, over time, but I never damaged or blew out a donut at this power level.

After you had mentioned 10w for cleaning on the old small donuts, I switched to that power, and it gets the donuts just as clean, only having to hold the button down for an extra 10-15 seconds or so.

I now burn my V3 donuts clean when they are "naked" and held just in the metal base and posts, no cup or outer case to absorb the extra heat. I then reassemble with those other parts, cleaned separately, after the donut has been burned clean.

I also use my crappiest TC mod that I don't use for vaping use, because it sucks (target mini mod) to burn my donuts clean, to lessen the strain on my mods I actually vape on. That little sucker is my dedicated donut-burning and ohm-sensing / testing mod.

I rarely burn donuts clean, these days, since I'm cycling my V3 use between so many attys, and I find simply scraping the donut clean with a flat tool at 200F and picking at and removing any reclaim that fell under the donut into the cup that is too gross and I don't want to vape, with a metal pick...

Intermediate cleaning with those 2 little actions lets me go for a couple dozen loads or so before I feel it needs to be burned clean, mostly to get at the reclaim under the donut in the cup that I can't scrape. Others may want to keep their donuts and cups much cleaner than me, that's ok too, and not hard to accomplish.

 

[Steven]

Cheers. Hope this will be the new common standard to catch on. I agree that this is the safest way to clean and prolong the life of the donuts. Haha yea... Maybe I misspoke about not burning a donut for a year now. I'm pretty stoned and was a bit hazy on memory. Point is, it's been since the v2.5

Thanx for your post back when the v3 came out about burning the v3 donuts naked on the base. Ive done that since reading your post with much success. A full break down and clean may be a bit tedious (I used to do it daily at minimum)

For intermediate cleaning, I remove the outer shell and clean the reclaim off of it. Then, I roll a small napkin between the 2 posts on the base, right under the cup. Then I flip the unit upside down and fire away at vaping settings. I do that using the needle agitation method and use a napkin or q tip to soak away all the reclaim. Once the cup and posts are clear of reclaim, I remove the reclaim soaked napkin. If the donut is too dark, I proceed to just use cleaning settings to renew the donut. When I get lazy I just leave the donut in the cup to clean. This will leave the cup dark.

I forget to mention that it's a hassle for me to remove the donut from the cup because I jamm small metal wire down along with the donut leads to help prevent leakage

 

[OF]

Regarding the stability, sensitivity, accuracy, precision, etc, with the joyetech mods and the myevic software, could it be possible we're hardware limited with the sensitivity and accuracy of the sensors on our TC mods?

With the myevic wanting to sense resistance down the the thousandths (0.00x) and temperature settings to 5*F increments, vs only resolving resistance down to hundredths (0.0x) and temp increments of 10*F for the stock firmware, could it be that the myevic software is too ambitious for the limited hardware capabilities of our TC mods?

Yes, that's exactly what I think is going on. There is always 'noise' in such measurements, the question is 'does it matter'? Precision, or the need for it, is relative. I don't need to know how cool it is outside to 1/10 of a degree to decide to grab a jacket. Nor do I need to measure single malt to the drop. But sometimes precision is very important. I think we want something like five degrees??? Maybe 10?

Looking at the raw data (as shown with the myevic software) it's clear there's significant noise, once there's noise mixed with signal you've got problems if the noise is large compared to signal. You can average over time (say sum half the last sample, 30% of the one before, 20% of the one before that and 10% from the one 3 back totaled) to improve things by trying to average out noise, but that comes at the expense of response (this is the kind of stuff that makes PID controllers fun). Often it's simply masked (notice how many vapes 'track' the heat up, then suddenly jump to the set temperature and turn on the coffee cup icon when it gets close? If the indicated temperature 'wondered' (as it surely does when you hit it....) owners would freak. So they just don't tell you. In the trade it's often called "masking". Same here, you can watch the raw resistance number climb as you heat it, and the indicated 'coil' resistance tracks it step for step as it does (no filtering). In fact, if you watch close, you can sometimes see it jump the wrong way (get lower) for a single step and the filtered display does as well. As does the temperature? You know that didn't happen. Very quick, but it happens. Check it out. When random noise exceeds the rate of change, if only for an instant. Or so the electrons say.......and they know what they're doing.

Of course you're right about resolution. Some lying going on, or at least misleading displays. It's obvious from watching the raw reading bouncing around in the ten's column that the ones column is BS. Hey, I can average 10,000 readings and give you credible but useless average to high precision......

This is almost certainly read in on a "A to D port" (usually written A/D), that is Analog to Digital. Typically 8 or 10 bits in the little guys, say 1000 counts. That's scaled to cover the range needed (1.5 Ohms max?), so I'm guessing the issue is hardware, specifically the analog stuff needed to make what would otherwise be a very demanding measurement. In practice, it probably reads the current and voltage and calculates the resistance by Ohm's law, but the precision issue remains. Under ideal conditions it can only know those numbers to a percent or so to start with.

In an overall system like this, stability (rather than absolute accuracy) is often much more important. If it's stable, and repeatable, lots of stuff becomes unimportant details.

As to my suggestion of externally firing the doughnut to clean, it's just that, a suggestion. I find it faster and easier to get a complete job (I have troubles at the ends and have to overheat the middles of each leg therefore). Twice I've ended up with damaged doughnuts that read higher resistance after cleaning. They still worked, but from what Matt said had been compromised (and replaced.....). I put it forward for your consideration, your call of course......it's your gear.

Regards,

OF

 

[KeroZen]

Regarding the stability, sensitivity, accuracy, precision, etc, with the joyetech mods and the myevic software, could it be possible we're hardware limited with the sensitivity and accuracy of the sensors on our TC mods?

First of all I've not been using it for long enough to be really confident about anything for now. But I wouldn't go back to the stock firmware that's for sure. You can set myevic to work exactly like the stock firmware and still get all the extra goodies.

For instance I love having my battery voltage displayed as a numerical value next to the graphical bar-graph meter. When charging it shows board temperature, voltage, percentage and the bar, it's neat. Board temperature is also good to have displayed when in use, as with some settings and our deviant use cases you can get the buck/boost converter overheating relatively quickly sometimes.

I had a short glance at the code and most of what we are after seems to be located in a single file (atomizer.c) But I already see some problems: the code is not commented at all, and worse it's full of magic numbers with no explanation nor enum/define directives to name them. Nothing unsolvable but I guess I'm used to higher standards.

Then, again from a cursory glance, I don't think the refresh rate he used is not adequate. The PID itself seems to be updated at 50Hz. Coil readings are indeed performed by "ADC read" calls. So if the ADC is crappy... not good to begin with. We could improve maybe by doing more DSP/filtering on the software side, they did wonders for instance in the multi-rotor flight controller firmwares by using various tricks to cope with the ultra noisy gyro and accelerometers data.

I might be wrong but as @OF suspected I think it's using a voltmeter and an ammeter (in the form of a shunt resistance) to compute the resistance. By the way, we can finetune the shunt value in the advanced firmware options.

Finally the idea @Pipes had regarding the extra precision (in digits) for the coil resistance was that we should be able to use this to our advantage by entering a (locked down) value that is more precise than what the mod is able to read. Then (hopefully) the firmware should base its calculations on that correct value, although it would still be thwarted by the next dodgy ADC reads...at least it would start from something closer to reality?

I will setup a long-overdue dedicated thread in the DIY section where we can discuss myevic in length and in details in a centralized location. It's getting technical real fast and off topic for most threads, so let's move the discussion over there shall we?

 

[bizwaxzion]

First post here on FC after lurking for a long time* and I want to thank a bunch of you. @OF, @Vape Donkey 650, @whatavape, @Steven, @fernand and of course @divinetribe for making these atomizers. I've been combusting for many years, but the draw of technology has lead me into vaporizing. I started with a KandyPens Gravity [if I knew then what I know now] and discovered it's shortcomings right away. While looking for options, I came across the DTv3 and the Saionara. I read this entire thread and compiled a spreadsheet of different settings while developing my own - these are what I'm currently enjoying:

• 10mm DTv3 on vtwo: TCR 240/20w/390-450F
• 13mm DTv3 on pico: TCR 347/25w/380-430F
• Sai Miracle B: 12w
• Sai Kanthal/BC: 18-20w

There was a bit of a learning curve, but I'm a techie and I like this stuff - the wife on the other hand has no interest in TCR values or temperature control algorithms, but does like the results. I've emailed Matt a few times and he's informative and prompt with his replies and I'm thrilled with the product - eagerly awaiting the crucible cups...

* Note: Apparently gmail blocks the FC domain - I had to create a new email account elsewhere before I could finally complete registration.

 

[Jaguar]

Folks, fairly new to vaping. I did purchase a Arizer Solo back in 2013 that still works, but I am looking to make a switch to concentrates. After a bunch of reading, I realized that the Solo isn't the best device for non herb vaping. Further reading lead me to narrows down to DTv3, but I am stuck trying to decide between eVic Basic vs eVic vtwo mini vs pico vs nano.

I am fairly hands on with tech, and I am looking for a device that will let me grow without having to upgrade rather quickly. I am also looking for a device with a smaller profile that I can carry around easily.

I am leaning towards the vtwo mini due to the ability to program the device, but I would love to get some expert advise here :-)

 

[OF]

I am also looking for a device with a smaller profile that I can carry around easily.

I am leaning towards the vtwo mini due to the ability to program the device, but I would love to get some expert advise here :-)

First off, Howdy, welcome to the Forums and all the fun, companionship and good information. Lots of fine folks about with good experience/information to share, soon hopefully to include you? Your research and well thought out question are very refreshing and very welcome. We see a lot of 'I'm too busy, important, used to it, whatever 'demands' for someone to repeat the same information that might be appearing a dozen times already since 'this thread is too long'. Even though we all agreed to not do that specifically when we signed up. Human nature, probably, but the norm I'm afraid. Kudos to you, self reliance is getting rarer and rarer......sad as some of us find that.

Of the four you mentioned, the vTwo Mini is the least 'pocket friendly' of the lot (and yes, I have all four.....). If carry is a prime factor, go with Basic. Mini and Basic have the same screen, programs, and features. One uses and internal battery which plenty of capacity for V3, the other replaceable 1 8650s, handially solving a power capacity we don't have (but heavy e-cig users fight with). In terms of carry, Pico and Nano have advantage over the eVic offerings, but are handicapped by their smaller displays and (for now) lack of custom software.

Since the Basic uses the same display and programs in a much smaller package, I'd suggest you go with it over vTwo Mini. I like the Basic over the vTwo so much I ordered a backup (I have one vTwo and a couple of standard Minis (which area also worth considering IMO, basically a cheaper eTwo without features we don't use and with a slightly less accurate clock (which can be adjusted if you need more precision). FWIW protective cases can be hard to find, lots for vTwo and Mini, but so far I could only find the factory 'skin' for Basic, at ten bucks not a couple of dollars. No (fake) leather ones anywhere.....yet.

Any will do a fine job driving V3, but from what you say I think Basic is the best fit for you.

Regards and best wishes. Any guy with a Solo clearly knows good gear. Ask @ataxian ......

OF

 

[invertedisdead]

I went with the Evic Basic and have nothing bad to say. It's very compact and simple to operate. I think it's a solid choice in that no external batteries or chargers are necessary, so it's very straight forward and plug-and-play out of the box. I probably will get a Pico eventually with replaceable batteries, but to serve a different purpose. The Basic with v3 is very pocket friendly.

 

[jpdnkstr]

+1 for evic basic! I also have a vtc mini and a yihi sx mini m class, but my basic is my "out and about" go to device. Unless you are a real heavy user, battery life shouldn't be an issue.

 

[Jaguar]

@OF - thanks so much for the detailed reply. I really appreciate it. You clarified the one major concern I had about the Basic - its ability to drive enough power (which is what I had read on some of the e-cig forums) to the atomizer. Now that this is not an issue with the DTv3, my choice is clear :-)

I hope that I can give back to the community 5% of what some of you folks do. This place is incredible for somebody who wants to learn everything about vaping.

@invertedisdead @jpdnkstr - thanks much for chiming in. This is really helpful. Time for me to place my order!

 

[ataxian]

First off, Howdy, welcome to the Forums and all the fun, companionship and good information. Lots of fine folks about with good experience/information to share, soon hopefully to include you? Your research and well thought out question are very refreshing and very welcome. We see a lot of 'I'm too busy, important, used to it, whatever 'demands' for someone to repeat the same information that might be appearing a dozen times already since 'this thread is too long'. Even though we all agreed to not do that specifically when we signed up. Human nature, probably, but the norm I'm afraid. Kudos to you, self reliance is getting rarer and rarer......sad as some of us find that.

Of the four you mentioned, the vTwo Mini is the least 'pocket friendly' of the lot (and yes, I have all four.....). If carry is a prime factor, go with Basic. Mini and Basic have the same screen, programs, and features. One uses and internal battery which plenty of capacity for V3, the other replaceable 1 8650s, handially solving a power capacity we don't have (but heavy e-cig users fight with). In terms of carry, Pico and Nano have advantage over the eVic offerings, but are handicapped by their smaller displays and (for now) lack of custom software.

Since the Basic uses the same display and programs in a much smaller package, I'd suggest you go with it over vTwo Mini. I like the Basic over the vTwo so much I ordered a backup (I have one vTwo and a couple of standard Minis (which area also worth considering IMO, basically a cheaper eTwo without features we don't use and with a slightly less accurate clock (which can be adjusted if you need more precision). FWIW protective cases can be hard to find, lots for vTwo and Mini, but so far I could only find the factory 'skin' for Basic, at ten bucks not a couple of dollars. No (fake) leather ones anywhere.....yet.

Any will do a fine job driving V3, but from what you say I think Basic is the best fit for you.

Regards and best wishes. Any guy with a Solo clearly knows good gear. Ask @ataxian ......

OF

@OF your the smartest vaporiser on this forum!
I want a atty that has a big bowl.

My first one fried. (coil broke first week)
Can you fill a tank with epoxy to keep the heating element cool?

My GIZMO you made me is keeping my SOLO alive.

Do you think a ATTY for several hit's will be made one day?

One hit wonders don't do it for me?
When CANNABIS was free we would take a hit then throw it on the ground before surfing.
I was 18 then (maybe it's a generation thing?)

@Jaguar cool avatar!

 

[invertedisdead]

@Jaguar if you're in the US and not looking for a colored one this is the best price I've found, I've ordered two from these folks.

https://www.myfreedomsmokes.com/joyetech-evic-basic-40w-tc-box-mod.html
Use the new customer discount code NEWMFS15 at checkout for 15% off.

@ataxian check out the Miracle S. Saw people loading up to a gram of concentrate in this with no leaking and you don't have to dilute the consistency with e juice at all. Just load your shatter and go!
http://www.ecapple.com/ecapple-vaporizer_p0006.html

 

[Jaguar]

@invertedisdead - I did see your post from earlier in the thread and bookmarked the link. That's an awesome deal and I am going to be ordering from there for sure. Thanks for posting the link again - appreciate it!

 

[mrbonsai420]

Hey guys. Thanks to a fellow FC buddy I am back up and running with amy V2.7 and V3.0 DT setups. I miss my Evic mod but the Eleaf he hooked me up with isn't bad. The 3.0 only has the large donuts and I liked the medium a bit better. Before I buy some medium donuts for the V3.0 can you guys compare it to the miracle S? I know what thread this is but I want to know from guys who use both that and the DT atty.