Divine Tribe atty's

[KeroZen]

@OF: you didn't answer for the dry hit heat btw, I imagine it will be part of your soon to come review?

Hey, did you consider the evic VTC dual instead of the Cuboid? The form factor is nice and it can revert to a evic VTC mini when you swap the battery holders. But since you already have two mini's the appeal might be low for you maybe... >> https://www.fasttech.com/products/3032/10015540/5508904

@natural farmer and me both just ordered a Smoant Knight V2 from gearbest for around $38 shipped >> http://www.gearbest.com/mod-kits/pp_483928.html

It's still a single cell box but the recessed atty port will hopefully prove interesting when using the Project (which is quite long with the stem in place)

Also I don't follow this thread much so I don't know where you guys stand, but over in the Project thread we all switched to the "myevic" open source firmware for our joyetech devices. It offers a new PID algo and much improved TC stability. Disregard if it's not news for you, otherwise I urge you to give it a try!

Amongst the many details I like in this firmware is the ability to display the cell voltage in a numeric value next to the gauge. You can watch the cell sag in real-time during use. You can also fine-tune your coil reading with ridiculously low increments, helps getting an accurate temperature display.

 

[OF]

I meant the obsolete V2, not the dry herb. I didn't know it was obsolete and I think I meant 2.7.

The cup you mention is the cup that holds the donut right?

The V2.5/2.7 is about .655 OD. Yes what I called the cup is the dish that holds the doughnut in the V3, one for the large doughnut, a different for the medium. Both same OD (the walls are thicker on the small cup) so they both fit the ID of the cover.

You're welcome, glad to help when I can.

@OF: you didn't answer for the dry hit heat btw, I imagine it will be part of your soon to come review?

Hey, did you consider the evic VTC dual instead of the Cuboid? The form factor is nice and it can revert to a evic VTC mini when you swap the battery holders. But since you already have two mini's the appeal might be low for you maybe... >> https://www.fasttech.com/products/3032/10015540/5508904

Yes, I'd planned to cover such stuff later, but since you can't wait........it's about like other similar vapes? FMs and the short glass stems in Air/Solo and so on. No magic. If the MFs are OK with you (they obviously are with me) you should do fine. I have no such issues right now.

You're right that mod didn't appeal enough to want one. I think I have those bases well covered for now. If I didn't have plenty of others........

OF

 

[b0]

Can't wait for that review OF, some pictures of ABV would be really appreciated! After reading about the small loads and cause of that not being what you would call a "session" vape I was wondering, would this be a good option for a kind-of one hitter? I mean, can you put a small load and finish it in a couple hits? I hope the vapor is not as hot/harsh as in a GH, that would be a killer for me...

 

[invertedisdead]

@OF

Yeah, the Evic Basic is tiny, but I like it because it puts it in line with the compact size of the wax pens from yesteryear. I'm pretty impressed with its battery life on the V3 but I could see where it would fall short at the power requirements for dry material.

 

[ataxian]

Nobody has jumped on this one, so I'll take a lash? I have no personal experience with this guy (I assume the one in question?):
https://vapenw.com/ipv6-200w-tc-mod-by-pioneer4you

This is 'an intermediate' TCR mod by the looks of it, with several presets but no option of manual m value entry. We should still be able to work around this, but the displayed temperatures will be off (probably too high?). I can't find a manual on line (do you know of one?), therefore you're on your own for button press sequences but you need to:

• Set maximum power 18 Watts (large doughnut, 12.5 for the medium size).
• Select a TCR mode (probably SS and Ti are best bets?)
• Dial up say 200F and see if it will regulate there (no doubt no vapor)
• Slowly walk the temperature up

You should find a 'sweet spot' where that power level (don't cheat.....) reaches 'temperature limit in a few seconds from cold, a bit longer with a fresh load. Time and power levels alone can 'get you started'. Though far from ideal you can also set VW mode for that same 18 Watts and cautiously use it like a normal vape pen......but you'll be giving up a LOT.

I guess it's possible that hardware just won't work, we've seen that with another DT product so there are some mismatches it seems. Even if it works OK I think you should consider something like a Pico or Nano. Much smaller (a much better match to the low power needed here), easier to carry and hold, and proven performers mated to the D3. Notice how they seem to show up in so many videos and photos? Clue there.

That's Pico on the left, Nano in the center both under V2.5 attys which are almost the same size. Both are about $30, Pico can use one of the 18650s from your mod, Nano has one built it. FWIW, in your hand Nano seems much smaller.

Good luck, great enjoyment ahead, your efforts will be rewarded and goal reached if you press on.



Yes, in fact I have one of mine in a Pico right now. Does great, go for it.

Not to worry about the SSN, I'm already claiming you. And both your grandmothers. Lucky all 3 of you are blind.......

OF

I have the WHITE attachment (bowl is really small?) for my PICO MEGA.
Maybe a COIL CLAPTON SS build and ceramic encasement?
24mm diameter?

I just use my SOLO until I can work it out?

ABV is it like vomiting and ingesting it?
@OF you must have more batteries than a BATTERY STORE?
Why not get a 300WATT device? Same price? (you have batteries)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Original-Wi...5ced7cf&pid=100033&rk=4&rkt=8&sd=122287732744

 

[OF]

Can't wait for that review OF, some pictures of ABV would be really appreciated! After reading about the small loads and cause of that not being what you would call a "session" vape I was wondering, would this be a good option for a kind-of one hitter?

Sorry, I don't do AVB photos. Besides that's way to subjective a measure IMO. I can tweak the temperature to get you whatever color you'd like.

I think this will be near ideal for a quick hit or two with herb. Session vapes, IMO, need to hold more (say twice?) and not fight you (forcing you to cycle the button all the time to stay hot). Good examples might be Solo/Air or the FMs? I'd put VG in that group as well. Lots of others, of course, but those are the one's I know personally and can recommend.

@OF you must have more batteries than a BATTERY STORE?
Why not get a 300WATT device? Same price? (you have batteries)

I've surely spent less $ on batteries and mods than you have on glass.......and I still have most of it 'to show for it' (in working order, more or less). A guy's gotta play you know.

I actually have the 200 Watt version of that, I got it for another project. You don't want a monster mod for the same reason you don't really want 750 horsepower in your commute car. Lower powered ones are smaller, lighter, cheaper and probably safer should they decide to 'run away'.

OF

 

[ataxian]

Sorry, I don't do AVB photos. Besides that's way to subjective a measure IMO. I can tweak the temperature to get you whatever color you'd like.

I think this will be near ideal for a quick hit or two with herb. Session vapes, IMO, need to hold more (say twice?) and not fight you (forcing you to cycle the button all the time to stay hot). Good examples might be Solo/Air or the FMs? I'd put VG in that group as well. Lots of others, of course, but those are the one's I know personally and can recommend.



I've surely spent less $ on batteries and mods than you have on glass.......and I still have most of it 'to show for it' (in working order, more or less). A guy's gotta play you know.

I actually have the 200 Watt version of that, I got it for another project. You don't want a monster mod for the same reason you don't really want 750 horsepower in your commute car. Lower powered ones are smaller, lighter, cheaper and probably safer should they decide to 'run away'.

OF

I vape my MOD at 38-Watt for a 0.2 sub omh coil.
0.5 coil at 51-Watts.
I want to get a MINI MOD (40 - 60 watts?)
KIEF 1 gram to 3 grams of EJUICE.
You can make it 1/1 however I read a lot.

The 300-watt MOD would need to be charged every 10 day's (CANNABIS ONLY).

I like 5 hit's at least?
ONE hitter seems like a waste?
When it was free and in a ZIZ-ZAG paper one hit was standard. However vaporizing? ( the rest of the joint on the ground).
Different TEMPERATURE!

ABV is GOOFY to me?
Then again we are in CALIFORNIA?
Like having fine wine or scotch in a styrofoam cup!

Glass?
CUSTOM LOCALLY MADE for now on!

 

[divinetribe]

Please email me if you have any questions or need service I do not have enough time to read all the posts to help people matt@ineedhemp.com
Youtube video for the Gen 2 DC Dry Herb Atty

 

[ataxian]

Please email me if you have any questions or need service I do not have enough time to read all the posts to help people matt@ineedhemp.com
Youtube video for the Gen 2 DC Dry Herb Atty

I want to check out what you have?
HUMBOLDT, CA was the best CANNABIS.
HAWAII with PURPLE BUD (HUMBOLDT) x MAUI WOWIEE very CIVILIZED (no fancy name) No SEEDS at least.

Your attachments must be functional?

 

[OF]

Gentle Friends,

OK, I'd like to try to organize my opinions of the new Gen 2 herb cart and get the information to those interested.

First off, the redesign of the oven is brilliant. Reducing it in diameter (rather than height) means there's better insulation so the unit runs cooler to the touch. More over, since it's smaller in diameter, there's much less surface area on the outside of the oven to leak heat away (another bonus to running cool). This also means less power is used to do the same job......longer battery life.

At the same time, keeping it 'full height' but reducing the diameter means that the ratio of wall surface (where the heat comes from) to load volume (where the heat has to go) goes up (the favorable direction). You can easily visualize this by noticing that on average heat has to 'soak through' less distance. Sound thermodynamics. Faster heatup and recovery.

The heater element is a metal film in a 'zig-zag' pattern very close to the inner wall (faster/better heat transfer) and is glazed over (covered with a thin layer of fused glass like a teacup) so this is truly 'an all glass vapor path'. Very clean tasting, and very easy to clean. Strain changes 'come through' well.

It is a small load, I'm still running about 1/8 gram (.125), which varies a bit with strain and cure. It's conduction so contact is the key. Grind it medium and pack it at least moderately for best results. If you want to load a tiny bit, pack that as well even if it doesn't fill the bowl.

I'm heating up to an indicated 390F before hitting and hitting it 'slow and steady'. A good 'heat soak' (or a couple of initial hits) and best vapor seems half a minute or so (maybe a bit more) from that point. You have to keep an eye on time to keep resetting the timer so the 10 second limit doesn't shut you off. In practice I reset every five seconds or so when hitting. Keeping that up for a ten minute session (sixty resets minimum) is not a useful mode IMO. A minute or two and your thumb is tired and that tiny load is spent anyway?

I cannot recommend Pico (and I assume Nano) for the Gen 2 since it still 'slips out' unexpectedly on me. I notice it because the default power is set lower (about 15W IIRC) so the vape cools off......it could be a nasty surprise if it jumped to 60 or 70 Watts...... The eVic Mini and Cuboid don't seem to have this problem. Until we know more, I recommend using one of them (or their 'sisters' I'd assume, Basic and Dual). I've used both extensively, Cuboid is heavier of course, but as I said before this guy is tough on power used, having the second 18650 on line is comforting and convenient. And you can, of course, swap in fresh 18650s. I also found it convenient to meter out loads into small vials. I do this with MFLB as well. Right now I'm using 1.5cc centrifuge tubes with pointed ends ike these:
https://www.amazon.com/Bottom-Clear...d=1485482891&sr=8-2&keywords=centrifuge+tubes

They hold the load with a bit of room to spare, are air tight, easy to open and close with one hand, and the pointed end makes a handy packing tool. A few of those and a wooden toothpick to stir the spent load and you're Jake. Load changes in half a minute are easy, it is still plenty warm when you put the MP back on and resume the fun.

It's actually a bit less harsh than similar vapes with short stems I think, perhaps because while it's short the MP is wide , that is it has more volume, so the vapor moves more slowly. Like a river flows slowly when wide and deep but rapidly when narrow and shallow? Don't get me wrong, it's harsh if you crank it up and hit hard.....which I don't recommend.

For the fun of it I tried my V3 Hydrotube on it. A 1.5 inch long piece of 1/2 ID (5/8 OD) Silicone tube did a great job linking the two, stretching over the (more or less rectangular) MP half an inch or so then sticking up round just the right size to enter into and seal against the GonG fitting on the WT. It cools things off a lot (of course) but isn't going to get you into chasing clouds like with the V3.

All in all a neat thing I think, especially if you have a eVic mod handy. If you already have a Mini or Cuboid (or their kin) and don't jump on the good guy FC discount price right now you're missing a great opportunity. If you don't have a eVic mod, time to think package, the mod alone is first rate. It has an advantage here in that it shows the actual resistance as it changes (mine goes from about .88 to 1.20 Ohms heating up to temperature) as well as the actual current delivered (big time nerd interest here.....).

Anyway, that's my advice for the evening, 'get 'em quick before they're all gone'. This is a train you want to be on.......on at least check out.

Regards to all.

OF

 

[KeroZen]

Ha thanks for the review my good man!

You have to keep an eye on time to keep resetting the timer so the 10 second limit doesn't shut you off.

With the myevic firmware you can set the time-out to 15 seconds, and there's a custom FC version floating around which allows up to 20 seconds. Nothing prevents us from setting it to one minute if needed as we have the source code, but that could be dangerous if left unattended in a bag or pocket.

.it could be a nasty surprise if it jumped to 60 or 70 Watts...... The eVic Mini and Cuboid don't seem to have this problem

I had the issue on the Mini when the resistance change was not fast enough during heat-up (due to me setting a too low wattage in TC mode) Mine did jump to a rather high value as it was set unfortunately, so combustion ensued...

The recommendation I received was: if it kicks out of TC mode, up the watts! Probably okay with the kind of RDAs we use elsewhere but not much with your delicate DT attys...

as well as the actual current delivered (big time nerd interest here.....)

I still think it would have been way more useful to display the actual amp draw on the cell itself, rather than what it outputs on the topper. As it is it was useful to me only once when using an ultra low sub-ohm build (it was something like 0.1ohm IIRC) and it displayed a dramatically high value (with the buck converter voltage set very low) It was close to the circuit limits (but not the cell ones!) and after a couple minutes of use I was greeted with the "over temp protection" message.

The myevic firmware allows to display the board temperature by the way, another one to please the nerd inside you!

 

[jpdnkstr]

Is the myevic firmware on the joytech website?
@OF thanks for the link, I need those for a project I'm pursuing.
My V3 is due for a heavy cleaning.

 

[KeroZen]

Is the myevic firmware on the joytech website?

Nope it's completely unofficial and not supported by joyetech. You can grab it here: https://github.com/ClockSelect/myevic

 

[zor]

Got my DT v3 last night, popped it on my mod and when I was setting the temp and wattage I see the base is already broken! That, and the screws are all very loose.

Very disappointing but at least this is just aesthetic. Tightened the screws and I'll look to supergluing that piece back on, this guy hits very, very well! It'll be my home on-demand shatter hitter while my Yocan Evolve + is for when I'm on the go. Very excited to use this more!

 

[invertedisdead]

Got my DT v3 last night, popped it on my mod and when I was setting the temp and wattage I see the base is already broken! That, and the screws are all very loose.

Very disappointing but at least this is just aesthetic. Tightened the screws and I'll look to supergluing that piece back on, this guy hits very, very well! It'll be my home on-demand shatter hitter while my Yocan Evolve + is for when I'm on the go. Very excited to use this more!

Send an email to matt@ineedhemp.com with this picture and he'll take care of you. I had the same thing happen to one of mine. The nice thing is since this is rebuildable, just 3 screws and you're good as new.

 

[divinetribe]

Send an email to matt@ineedhemp.com with this picture and he'll take care of you. I had the same thing happen to one of mine. The nice thing is since this is rebuildable, just 3 screws and you're good as new.

yes if this was not from a hard fall on your part or it was and money is tight, just email me for service..
thanks
matt
matt@ineedhemp.com

 

[zor]

yes if this was not from a hard fall on your part or it was and money is tight, just email me for service..
thanks
matt
matt@ineedhemp.com

No worries man! It came out of the box this way, probably a victim of careless delivery guys (can't blame em, the job is fucking awful), it functions just fine and I can glue it back. I don't want to subject a small business to a needless return, would rather you keep that time and money on delivering and developing your products

I'm off to see one of my favorite bands, about to get RIP'd on a nice dab of Facewreck in my dt3 happy Friday all!

 

[OF]

@OF thanks for the link, I need those for a project I'm pursuing.
My V3 is due for a heavy cleaning.

Yer welcome. You can get them on ebay and such in a large assortment many for specific centrifuges. I use several sizes for lots of stuff. For the most part I find the 2 and 5cc sizes with round bottom more useful. I even have some fives in assorted colors which can be handy as well. I use some 10cc as well, very easily stores a gram or more of ground bud for immediate needs.......

Wanna guess what I'm using to store all those tiny little V3 (and now Gen 2) screws in? Yep, the tiny screwdriver is in there too......

As far as 'heavy cleaning' I can't think of an easier concentrate vape to do that with off hand? I like that part.

OF

 

[OF]

A couple of 'FYI' points for those interested, the eVic Basic and cleaning the Hydrotube.

I just got (finally) my Basic today and have been 'testing' for the past 16 hours or so with much success. It works well, just like Mini and Cuboid, only much smaller. About the size as the Nano. Battery life is, of course, limited. And since it's internal you have to recharge in place (can't change out like with larger units that use 18650s). Still it's bitty and performs very well for several loads. I think I'm getting about four loads to a charge, same as with Air and the smaller FMs (more in fact than V5 Mini Pro). Not ideal for routine use, but very handy for travel.

Secondly I just cleaned my HT using PBW. Very fast and easy. Cheaper and safer than ISO, and IMO does a better job (even with salt in the ISO). It occurs to me that many here are new to HTs, and many who have experience still don't know about PBW. A number 2 rubber stopper in the bottom, put maybe 1cc of the detergent down the MP and fill with hot water. Shake it a few times, let it soak maybe 4 or 5 minutes, shake, dump and rinse. It's 'green' (safe to put down the sink) and not a fire hazard like ISO. And cheaper. BTW a spoonful in the dishwasher removes the 'haze' that builds up due to the extra chemicals they put in to combat hard water. There's a great thread on it here 'bouts, started by our own @t-dub . You can get it at Amazon and 'home brewing stores' as well as on line:
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/pbw-the-chemistry-of-clean.7854/

Regards to all.

OF

 

[Vape Donkey 650]

@OF, thanks for the scoop on the pbw. I recall you promoting this stuff way back, but i didnt know what you were talking about, and simply searching for 'pbw' is too vague with other results coming up. I just became aware of @t-dub's thread recently too.

Some questions on pbw: does it work as good on our ceramic donuts and cups as it does on glass? How about plastics like the acrylic parts of the volcano solid valve? (Ceramic cups can be hard to get like-new)

Can you recommend a good place to buy pbw? It seems like 7-8 bucks / pound is the going rate?

Also, OF, if i could pick your knowledge, since i have your attention and you seem like the go-to electrical guy around here:

Are cannabinoid oils like co2, shatter, live-resin, etc conductive to electrical current, or insulative, or something in between?

Same question for "e-juice" which consist mostly of VG/PG.. conductive or insulative?

Thanks

 

[OF]

Some questions on pbw: does it work as good on our ceramic donuts and cups as it does on glass? How about plastics like the acrylic parts of the volcano solid valve? (Ceramic cups can be hard to get like-new)

Can you recommend a good place to buy pbw? It seems like 7-8 bucks / pound is the going rate?

Are cannabinoid oils like co2, shatter, live-resin, etc conductive to electrical current, or insulative, or something in between?

Same question for "e-juice" which consist mostly of VG/PG.. conductive or insulative?

It can sometimes get burnt on junk off, perhaps better than solvents like ISO, but not as clean a heating. I'm not sure how completely clean it needs to get, you should try. It no doubt varies with concentrates as well. I'd be careful with plastics and rubbers. Rubbers should be fine I'd think, within the design goals. It's alkaline and can attack Aluminum and other metals (not SS). Careful testing is advised on such surfaces. It's serious stuff, designed to be as aggressive as possible. Long term soaks (like overnight) can etch the glass enough to leave a 'tide line'. Follow the directions and you'll have no troubles.

It was designed originally for Coors to clean beer making equipment (brew kettles and such) and their plumbing. The very sort of organic junk we have to deal with in WTs and such. Lucky us. I first came on it a LONG time back when I made beer in the kitchen, home brewing supplies shops are a great source as is Amazon.

You know that old bong that's just too disgusting to take out in public any more? Try this. It uses 'Oxygen action' like "Oxiclean" on TV, liberating gas bubbles that can drive it into pores and under stuff. You can watch a fine string of bubbles 'springing' from the contamination like in a glass of beer until the piece breaks free and floats away. Honest. It's fun to watch guys faces when you coax them into trying it.

No, concentrates are non polar (don't have plus and minus ends like say table salt). It's more like sugar. It's an insulator, yes I also checked.......and now have sticky meter leads to deal with...... Sorry no VG/PG to try but I suspect it's the same there as well. One thing sure it's not a really good conductor or guys flooding those monster power e-cigs would know about it? You know those guys love to talk, but now we'd have heard of it?

OF

 

[looney2nz]

Oil is an insulator, unless perhaps it's got nano metals emulsified into it

Was used in transformers for a long long time this way.

 

[OF]

Oil is an insulator, unless perhaps it's got nano metals emulsified into it

Or something ionic is dissolved in it (takes way less than metal/carbon contamination). Like water, a good insulator when pure, becomes conductive with a little salt added. More so with more salt. 'in the day' we'd use 'water loads' for ham radio transmitter tests. You'd stick two wires in a (non conductive) pan of water and add salt until you drew enough current (as conduction improves) to fully load the transmitter. The water just gets hot and boils eventually. In a couple of cases we used a handy 'porcelain convenience' for the test......pushing the little chrome lever makes clean up a snap that way.

Transformer oils are a good example. In practice, insulation in 'transformer oils' can also be improved with some additives.....like the PCBs that we added to all those transformers? That stuff is still out there, boys and girls, on all those poles across our neighborhoods. The thing that looks like a trashcan at the top? Or at least a lot of them. In fact, blowing a transformer usually causes a toxic clean up party. I worked with a guy who got a free (replacement) car that way, easier to buy a new car that completely decontaminate that one it seems. They took up the sidewalk where most of the oil landed as well.

OF

 

[looney2nz]

Or something ionic is dissolved in it (takes way less than metal/carbon contamination). Like water, a good insulator when pure, becomes conductive with a little salt added. More so with more salt. 'in the day' we'd use 'water loads' for ham radio transmitter tests. You'd stick two wires in a (non conductive) pan of water and add salt until you drew enough current (as conduction improves) to fully load the transmitter. The water just gets hot and boils eventually. In a couple of cases we used a handy 'porcelain convenience' for the test......pushing the little chrome lever makes clean up a snap that way.

Transformer oils are a good example. In practice, insulation in 'transformer oils' can also be improved with some additives.....like the PCBs that we added to all those transformers? That stuff is still out there, boys and girls, on all those poles across our neighborhoods. The thing that looks like a trashcan at the top? Or at least a lot of them. In fact, blowing a transformer usually causes a toxic clean up party. I worked with a guy who got a free (replacement) car that way, easier to buy a new car that completely decontaminate that one it seems. They took up the sidewalk where most of the oil landed as well.

OF

funny, I was gonna bring up the PCB's they used seemingly forever...

 

[OF]

I'm continuing to enjoy my Gen 2 herb cart. I find I use less battery charge if I don't let it cool off (like you would with say Solo for FMs). I keep cycling the power to defeat the ten second timer now between hits. Better technique I think, by all means try it?

I also found a couple of interesting notes in the manual (such as it is....) for my new VTC Baisc:

" (1)VT mode only supports a maximum of 1.5 Ohms. The device will automatically switch to VW mode when the resistance is alrger than 1.5 Ohms.

(2) When Kanthal wire is applied (sic) in VT mode, the device will also automatically switch to VW mode after 2 seconds."

I'm thinking the Kanthal thing is based on not noticing an appropriate rise in resistance (Kanthal doesn't change). I'm thinking this maybe what we see when using iSmok mods like Pico, the resistance change with Gen 1 wasn't fast enough for it? And G2 is marginal? After all these mods aren't really set up for 10 or more second heat ups......e-cig guys sure aren't going to stand for that. They WANT IT NOW! Ask 'em and see.....

OF

Edit: Oh, yeah, I've also noticed the G2 smells a lot more than I'm used to. I notice it in my shirt pocket atop the Basic. If I can smell it, so can others......not the last word it stealth. I'm guessing it has to do with the large open area on the MP above the 'screen', the MP alone smells. Perhaps washing it out first would help, but for some uses I think a small proof cap or case may be the call.

Anyone else finding this?

TIA

OF