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Divine Tribe atty's

Discussion in 'E-cig Based Portables' started by divinetribe, Jun 12, 2014.

  1. papapotbelly

    papapotbelly Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    47
    Yes, the 2-piece is easier to clean but still shit for diffusion and that water is goin' right up your lips, buddy :-)
     
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  2. invertedisdead

    invertedisdead trance-form

    Messages:
    1,669
    Good to know. The recycler is my main interest. I wouldn't mind getting some of the normal bubblers, but if they are crap perhaps that one should be skipped.

    How sturdy is the recycler on the v3? Any idea how well it fits with the ceramic housing removed?
     
  3. just_the_flu

    just_the_flu take it as it comes, specialize in havin' fun

    Messages:
    208
    Location:
    in front of my screen
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    ... this is my case i use for my eVic Basic and DT
     
  4. invertedisdead

    invertedisdead trance-form

    Messages:
    1,669
    I'm curious if the v3 base is tall enough to support one of those bubblers with the ceramic housing removed. There's not a lot of room with the housing off, but it does seem like a great view of the dab surface. I wonder if a silicone band or something might help regardless to keep it secure? I'd love to hear how one of those bubblers fits if any one has a few minutes to unscrew the housing and confirm.
     
  5. Bad Ocelot

    Bad Ocelot Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    271
    been using the Eleaf Aster RT with my 3.0 a lot lately, solid mod. A bit heavy & not as stealth as the Tesla Stealth, but it has the latest eleaf firmware & TCR mode. Want to do a little mod round-up type post soon. Hopefully later tonight.

    I'd also like to sing the praises of the RX Mini by Wismec. All that wismec goodness in a tiny package. Got it to TC my DC Gen 1 the other day to good effect. Unfortunately I was just testing it out as I'd purchased it as a gift. Gonna probably pick up couple for myself in the near future, one for my nicotine vaping habits to keep at the office & one for the DC Gen 2 from Matt. I just need the DC Gen 2 & water tool for the 3.0 & I'll have the complete set, ha.
     
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  6. OF

    OF Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    17,441
    Location:
    Left Coast
    Gentle Friends,

    A quick update on the 'jumps out of TCR into VW mode on it's own' thing if you will? As you recall, this prevented us from using TCR on the Gen 1 carts. It might go a time or two, but without warning it would leap into VW mode and run too cold to make vapor or try to combust, depending. And running in VW mode is a PITA for modest results.....no doubt a factor in customers staying away in droves.

    Enter the much improved Gen 2. I found the problem happened less often with say Pico, but it still happened once you stopped watching for it....... Nano was the same (as would be expected). Not reliable. However, VTC Mini never missed a beat. I ran mine on several Minis and my VTwo Mini. Later, when I got one, on the Basic as well. I've been using mostly on a Basic in fact.

    It seems Murphy got me. "The statistics of small groups" was used to set me up? My original Gen 2 gave out a while back and Matt quickly replaced it. It was a preproduction one Matt sent me for evaluation with a V3 order. It was easy to see what happened, one lead from the heater was too short to make reliable contact. The post was discolored because of the heat generated. Good clue. But it didn't get me to question my earlier experience like it should have.

    When it did dawn on me to recheck I found that the Pico and Nano can indeed drive the Gen 2 reliably, at least so far. It's a classical issue, when did the ghost move out? When have you seen your last random failure'? In troubleshooting it only counts if you can define (and hopefully demonstrate) the 'root cause' of the failure and then show how you've prevented it from happening again. Then you get the raise. Or so they say.........

    So here's my idea, still basically the same. Unreliable instantaneous changes in contact with the heater is read as a resistance change (which I guess it is......) that can push the 'temperature reading' out of range and trip the 'revert to VW' protection. It's confusing because Mini is less sensitive to these changes than Pico. I've discussed this a time or two along the way.......it will be on the test......

    My backup (which I ordered as soon as they became available of course) and the replacement from Matt didn't have the dicey contact from the hand built evaluation one I started with. That contact (the defective Gen 2) was good enough to fool Pico (or Nano) 'most of the time' and Mini or Basic all the time. I had a marginal unit and didn't know it. 100% of what I had at first showed fine performance on one brand and less problems (but still happened) on the other. Evic good, Eleaf bad. Bad assumption, I set myself up. Having found a later failure I didn't question the prior results......didn't see if the ghost was still there. I just continued to avoid that side of the street. I was younger then.

    What are others seeing with theirs? TIA

    So I find that (at least?) 2 out of 3 Gen 2 carts run fine on the same TCR mods most of us are using for V2.5 and V3? Although I am having fun with the myevic software and all the fun stuff you can display on the larger screen on Mini et al. Using a "m value" of 245 (same as V2.5 and smaller V3 in fact.....) with a power setting of 24 Watts I go from cold to vapor ("390F") in about 15 seconds. The myevic software lets you dial up 25 seconds, but the 10 second limit on the Eleaf mods calls for cycling the power. But they do a great job. The little Nano is smaller than the Gen 2 cart, and fits in your pocket like a dream......

    Thanks for listening, anyone with some experience to offer? And those V3 guys with TCR mods who haven't bought into this should fix that part. Cold to vapor in 20 seconds on a pinch of herb? What's not to like?

    TIA

    Well, OK, not quick.....but it is an update and 'is what it is'.

    OF
     
  7. KeroZen

    KeroZen Chronic vapaholic

    Messages:
    2,177
    Location:
    On Air
    This "kicking out of TC" has been my plague too, with the Project and with custom RDA's. Yeah most if not all the time there was a rational explanation of course, but when you get a mouthful of thick and smelly smoke, that's not what you want to hear! Made me curse a lot!

    I wonder if we could maybe 1) disable this safety in code altogether... dangerous? or 2) replace it by an error message and cut power simply.

    Also, my vtc mini is acting up once again. It's the second time it does that: whatever I do and whatever I plug into (swapped RDA's with wildly different resistances) it reverts to power mode. It's like I can't use SS-TC or TCR anymore. It's not asking me whether I want to use the new coil or not either, it doesn't complain, it just switches back to power mode.

    I can select TCR mode in the menu and as soon as I press the trigger to confirm and exit, it reverts! Anyone else had this issue?
     
    Last edited: Feb 20, 2017
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  8. 2clicker

    2clicker kill your masters Accessory Maker

    Messages:
    4,557
    i was having that issue with my evic vtc mini and my vtwo mini when i started working with SS coils. it was driving me crazy and i couldnt figure it out. turns out it was the leads. they were "loose". so i tightened the piss out of them and have not had one issue yet. i cant explain it exactly because the leads were tight before. or so i thought. all i know now is then when i really tighten them good then i have no issues. also be sure the pin on the atty is making solid contact with the mods pin.

    every time my evic mod (full size or mini) ever gave me the jump out of TC issue it was because of the leads.

    im not sure how much of an option this is for the DT donut leads tho. from what i gather the leads are soft and you have to be careful with how much you tighten them.
     
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  9. OF

    OF Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    17,441
    Location:
    Left Coast
    I'm thinking this (jumping into VW mode) is plaguing us because of poor connections causing even a split second jump in resistance read. Very easy to have happen when heat is involved. This is why Gen 1 is doomed I think, there's no clamping action at all, the rubber presses one lead against the center pin, the other against the wall in the e-cig fashion. That connection was OK when 'batteries' gave fixed voltages and currents were lower. That is no longer the case, we're pulling too much current through the connections and demanding more integrity than they can offer. Clamping solves that. Or should.

    That doesn't always mean gronking down for all you're worth, in fact, since stuff changes size and shape in operation how tight tight is is really questionable. That was fun, wasn't it? ".....tight tight is is...." and more or less correct English? "Medium tight when cold" is probably the best call for us? And with soft stuff you should back the screw off and retorque again, 'snugging up' after use is not reliable/reproducible. The failure in the one I had was because the lead was too short, a defect, that has been addressed. Once reliably 'under the screw' I think it's a solid system, at least the two I'm running are now.

    And I am convinced that the eVic mods (Mini et al) are less sensitive to this than the iSmok like Pico and Nano. Once I got solid clamping any work fine in TCR......but it took me a while to realize that.

    I was fooled into thinking the resistance reading is much more stable than it is by the 'masking' involved. This masking makes sense, it would confuse owners otherwise? When the myevic software allowed the running display of resistance readings this possibility (a momentary out of range reading) presented itself. Watching those (resistance) numbers jump around is definitely 'food for thought.

    Regards to all on a lovely, rainy, holiday.

    OF
     
  10. nosmoking

    nosmoking Fogmonger

    Messages:
    1,143
    Location:
    DC Area
    A couple weeks ago I finally jumped aboard the Divine Tribe train and bought a V3 rebuild able concentrate atomizer. I had been using a Puffco Plus pen for about 3 monthes and decided to switch over to the DT V3 in hope that it would be a comparable replacement. I never liked donut coils too much before as they prevent the cup from being completely sealed which allows for leaks and creates that burnt flavor of oil lingering around an exposed portion of the coil or lead wires.

    Unfortunately after only two weeks I found that the DT V3 is just the same as other donuts I have tried. The leaks happened and the burnt flavor after a few sessions was already noticeable. I must admit, the Puffco Plus did spoil me in this aspect as taste is so much better in the Puffco Plus. The only two things I really like about the DT V3 is the bigger diameter of surface area to work with and the increased airflow. I didn't care that it was rebuildable, however this has now become the biggest reason for me liking the DT V3. Because it is rebuildable I am able to take it apart and DIY it to make it better!

    So without further ado...here is my DT V3 Terra 2+
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    That is the small cup (for the smaller donut sans donut) with a Source Terra 2 ceramic crucible which wires directly into the rebuildable atomizer just like the donuts. I was not expecting this, I just thought it would be a ceramic cup and I would have to heat it with the DT V3 donut but since it has leads already it heats itself!

    The Source Terra 2 cup is 10mm diameter by 9mm height, however the cup is only 7mm deep as it has a raised floor. I am not sure what the perfect size cup would be for the DT, however I have one 10mm dia x 15mm height ceramic crucible and one 12mm dia x 10mm height ceramic crucible on the way from China. I am not sure how to attach lead wires to these crucibles that I have coming. Would anyone be able to advise me on this? A link to a video of a similar task would probably be best. I figure the easy answer is "solder them", however this would be a new process for me and I wouldn't know what tool or materials to use.

    I have also punched out the splash guard in the mouth piece and jerry-rigged a Puffco Plus dart for easy loading (not shown). It is a little finicky the way I did the mouth piece so I need to work on that part and I think a deeper cup would be idea. It works pretty good all in all but a complete package like the Puffco Plus is needed so get on with it Matt!
     
  11. invertedisdead

    invertedisdead trance-form

    Messages:
    1,669
    I didn't think I was going to like the smaller donut, but I'm liking it quite a bit.
     
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  12. OF

    OF Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    17,441
    Location:
    Left Coast
    Me too. I find it easier to load (not against the wall) and the big guy tries to hurt me.......

    OF
     
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  13. Steven

    Steven Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    341
    @invertedisdead I been really busy repairing a ceiling and repainting my entire room. Rain has been crazy in my area. Haven't had too much time for anything else but those 519 bubblers will fit onto the v3 base but it's not a nice snug fit as it should. It will work, but not the best connection. There's not a lot if space. Haven't actually tried it tho. I was just able to put em together
     
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  14. nosmoking

    nosmoking Fogmonger

    Messages:
    1,143
    Location:
    DC Area
    @invertedisdead
    The bubblers can be made to fit air tight with the right size o rings but I dont feel like they would ever be that stable. The largest outside diameter of the v3 base is just slighlty greater than the inside diameter of the glass chamber on those bubbler. At least on all 3 of mine it is that way. Managing holding the bubbler, dropping a dab and pressing the button all at once is gonna take an extra hand. I would just rather dab on a sic nail through a proper rig anyway.

    There is a glass boiler kit that I have that came with the recycler version bubbler. The boiler kit is a quartz boiler/crucible on a 510 adapter that is setup to slide into the recycler bubbler. It would be more idea for what your talking about...I will see if I can find a link later. Or you could just go with a Greenlight Vapes TC Port for home use when they come out!
     
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  15. papapotbelly

    papapotbelly Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    47
    @invertedisdead and others interested in "dabbing into" the donut, I humbly submit this piece/idea.

    It's basically a 14mm male joint attached to the female joint for the donut and carb cap. I think if we had one of these that was custom fit to the right height and width for the V3 housing, you could:

    a. attach any PPWT or smaller hydratube to it and dab on the go
    b. Turn it upside down and connect it to any rig
    c. This allows people different modular options instead of one piece (i.e. the recycler) if they don't like it.

    Seems like it would be a lot cheaper and easier for your blower to make, as well.

    (and the PPWT works great with this setup, no splash-up, great diffusion, easy to fill, just can't set it down or lay it flat).

    [​IMG]
     
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  16. invertedisdead

    invertedisdead trance-form

    Messages:
    1,669
    My biggest concern with the whole idea is if there is enough room on the atomizer base for the glass to grab onto and be stable, or if the atomizer base needs to be machined with a taller sidewall to fit some o rings to properly snug up the glass connection.

    It really seems like a much better candidate with the housing completely removed. Would be an even better experience when the crucible cup comes. Maybe @divinetribe could design the next version to be convertible from portable to dab mode, especially if he does trade the screws for o rings anyways?

    Perhaps a 1 piece ceramic housing that connects to the base with o rings which you could add on for portable out the house mode?
     
  17. papapotbelly

    papapotbelly Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    47
    You may be onto something there: maybe Matt would be game to make a version of the housing for the V3 that is the same outside diameter as the existing 510 nail bases. Then all those glass pieces would just slide right on to the housing and be stable, no rigging or custom glass required.

    That would be great! However, honestly, probably pretty far down the "to-do" list for Matt between O-rings, crucible cups, dry herb cart, etc. :-)

    As a temporary fix, I carry the Dabado Pro and the DTV3, and a pinnacle pro water tool. I also carry a VTC Dual so it can handle/power both atty's. I have that 14MM adaptor that I posted above to hook the PPWT up to the Dabado and I have the 14mm male closed adaptor to hook it up to the DTV3. So essentially I can dab into the Dabado and take sneaky tokes with the DTV3, all with water filtration, all in one box that's about 4 inches by 3 inches by 6 inches :rockon:

    But I wish it was all Divine Tribe stuff because Matt's products and service are just so rock solid. I mean, who else is doing off-gas testing, trying for medical grade, shipping same-day, and personally returning customer emails?
     
  18. invertedisdead

    invertedisdead trance-form

    Messages:
    1,669
    I think it would cross market the v3 by being able to compete with other devices in the market. Roll it out at the same time as the crucible cup because that combo would be killer!

    If the bottom housing gets converted to O rings instead of screws, one of those 510 nails should fit that way, yeah? As I assume the base needs more sidewall anyways to convert to O rings?
     
  19. OF

    OF Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    17,441
    Location:
    Left Coast
    Gentle Friends,

    A hopefully quick note on cleaning the V3 Bubbler?

    Mine has been getting a lot of testing these days, between messing with the Gen 2, I'd like to bore you with what I think is the best/fastest/easiest/cheapest way to clean it.

    Using two number 2 rubber stoppers (standard hardware store stuff as well as on line) I cork the bottm, put a bit of PBW down the spout, fill it mostly full of hot water and cork the other end with the second stopper. Leaving say 1/3 empty I shake it several times over a few minutes leaving it in the kitchen sink between. It's easy to shake it hard enough to dislodge any bits hanging on.

    A couple of rinses and a refill and I'm off again. Under five minutes, and I can make tea at the same time. So can you if you get the PBW and stoppers. PBW is amazing for this, I'm using something between a Dash and a Pinch of the stuff. Real measures, I checked the 'hand thrown loads', a Dash (1/16 tsp) is light, a pinch (1/8 tsp) heavy. A Teaspoon is 5 ml so we're talking half a ml a cleaning? And it's safe to pour down the drain, doesn't burn or smell bad. Beats ISO and salt like you wouldn't believe.

    Regards,

    OF
     
  20. 2clicker

    2clicker kill your masters Accessory Maker

    Messages:
    4,557
    could not agree more! PBW is the only way to clean glass.

    its easy as fuck, makes your glass surgically clean, and is totally safe for the environment.

    oh and toss some into your dishwasher! youll be amazed.
     
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  21. jpdnkstr

    jpdnkstr Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    701
    Location:
    Third Coast
    I just picked up a 4lb tub of pbw...:shrug:. It works wonders on coffee stuff too.
     
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  22. 2clicker

    2clicker kill your masters Accessory Maker

    Messages:
    4,557
    back to your regular scheduled programming
     
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  23. papapotbelly

    papapotbelly Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    47
    :2c:Hey, @invertedisdead:

    I used some Rescue Tape (safe to 500 degrees) since I did not have a silicone band - got the Recycler to sit on the naked base of the V3!

    [​IMG]

    However, I did not like it one bit :(

    If I preheated to my usual dabbing temp, most of the oil just ran off the hot donut and down the air intake holes, right onto the deck, ugh.

    If I heated it up enough to get a "hot hit" and get it all to sublimate instantly, it 1) killed the flavor completely, 2) left a black smudge of nastiness on my donut, and 3) I had to run it so hot that I popped 2 large donuts trying to get them hot enough to light up all the oil fast enough.

    Maybe with the crucible cups this design would work better, but for now I'm going to stick with the 510 nail for dabbing and use the V3 to slow-roast my oils as I have been.

    If you want to rip your face off with the V3, just hook it up to a hydratube or PPWT, and dab into your Dabado when you feel the urge. The ceramic rod with cup on top is a better design for getting that hot and keeping the flavor without breaking anything :2c:.
     
  24. Steven

    Steven Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    341
    Although a bit hard to work with sometimes, the disposable silicon drip tips are the thinnest silicon bands I have found to work with a variety of vape equipment. I have used these time and time again to adapt various things to water tools over the years. Both the lower thin and/or the upper thicker silicone portions can be used. I mostly use the lower thin silicon for the dt gear. Just Note that stretching these guys over the housing may be a bit difficult at times, but it definitely can be done. Find your own techniques. This can also be used to adapt the 510 bubblers to the base of the v3. But getting the band on the base is pretty damn hard, but again can be done. [​IMG]
     
  25. Volteric

    Volteric Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    551

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