The High5 LCD with the e5cc definitely has a mechanical relay, 100% certain, it clicks like a 1950s thermostat all day long, and I can physically feel the relay opening and closing in my unit. I have 1 and my buddies have an additional 2 units (1 v1 and 2 v2 LCD #2s) that also have the mechanical ssr. All 3 units were purchased before the "update" to the "newer" v3 ninja nail ripoff (between 6-9 months) with the flat sides instead of the angled case fitting sides.
Nope, hearing noises is by no means proof of componentry. Your box full of electronics can be configured in different ways even due to settings inside the PID. I am not a fan of High 5 as a company, but is not fair to them, or an accurate review of their products, to claim to definitively state your box and your friends boxes which you have never examined the internals of, do not contain a part, which is of paramount importance to a properly functioning product. It would be easy to open up your enail, take some photos, and show what is going on, because then and only then would you know if you are using an integral mechanical relay or an external solid state relay. I believe
@Baron23 did exactly this to troubleshoot his Greenlight Vapes enail some time ago. If you are in fact missing an SSR I would suggest hopping over to that thread to see how he rectified his issue.
Regarding the SiC Halo in particular, and D-nail's carb cap heat sink that drops dish temps 20-40 degrees at the beginning of a dab, if not pre-heated. Having tried quartz, SiC, and sapphire, I think the SiC + Ti cap is the worst case scenario in many ways. It seems to drop the dish temperature the fastest, and hence, the greatest drop from setpoint. The SiC transfers heat the best, so this makes sense. As a consequence of the rapid heat transfer, the carb cap heats up quickly. And if you're preheating the cap like I do to minimize the temp drop on capping, take the same length pull, the handle'll be even that much hotter: Hence the need for an insulated handle.
Separating the titanium heatsink carb cap from the dabber / handle would be an elegant and simple way to solve the issue. I think the threading might be too small (I believe they are #10-24) to effectively implement a simple threaded piece of phenolic plastic or PTFE- small plastic threads can't handle much force and strip easily but a larger diameter shaft would allow beefier threads. Much like D-nail makes PTFE joint protectors to act as a heat blocker between glass and titanium, the same material would work for titanium cap-> titanium handle. Perhaps an updated 2.5 or 3.0 carb cap could use a larger diameter threading and rod/handle so as to allow adequate thread sizing for plastic threads.
Now, all the chat about sleeves and spacers and insulators aside, there's an even easier and more elegant solution to the hot handle problem, and it wouldn't be an impossibility. Just make the carb cap out of a material that does not transfer heat as readily as titanium! If it takes longer to heat up, and you inhale the same amount of time, the cap will be much cooler upon completion of your dab. And in fact there is an easily workable material that's clear and transparent with a low coefficient of thermal transfer. Fuzed quartz is perfect for this application! And it shoudn't be too much of a challenge to manufacture, as
Highly Educated has been making a variety of quartz carb caps for their nails for some time! If you would purchase a quartz Halo carb cap from D-nail, please please
please write them with your product suggestion and suggestions! I really feel that such a product could elevate the Halo platform one step further.
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I forget if I posted about this earlier as I'm on FC infrequently these days, but my first flat coil took a shit some months ago, and I purchased one of the higher end D-nail Extended Life coils to replace it. Had a few hiccups which I thought worth sharing in case anyone else was experiencing less than amazing performance from their D-nail flat coil and really any dish...
The coil worked reliably, but my vapor production wasn't good. I wasn't sure if I was trippin' or what, but after a few weeks, particularly after I picked up some bubble and it stayed liquidy after 2-3 pulls instead of vaporizing down to a light char, I was convinced that I wasn't imagining things and that I was having to dab at a higher temperature and even then had less sustained vapor production (it would drop more quickly than a quartz banger, instead of staying consistently thick for two full pulls).
Upon inspection I realized that my new, high end heating coil was not flat, and was slightly twisted, such that it was not making good contact to the SiC dish. I tried using pliers to tighten the retaining nut tighter, to improve contact, but I only ended up denting and deforming the retaining nut.
I took my coil in to work and sandwiched it in a bench vice. (I put flat, steel tools between the diamond-tooth of the vice so as to not damage or dent the coil, to press only flat surfaces against the coil). I tightened it down gently, took it out, and checked on a flat edge, still not flat. I then squished it with a bit more force, checked again, and was satisfied with its flatness.
I took it home and installed it on my D nail. The coil was a few mm thinner and I couldn't tighten the nut down to get that proper contact I was after- the coil moved more freely than ever.
I took the nail apart and realized why: there was carbon buildup in the threads exposed due to the overly thick coil that prevented the retaining lug from tightening further now that the coil was the right height. I used vice grips and a pick to remove the carbon buildup, and upon yet another reassembly, got everything put back together.
The result was even better than I expected. The vapor production pull after pull is more consistent than I ever achieved by hours of fucking with PID settings. I think my crushed coil is flatter than my original coil, which
seems flat except for a slight bump at the tip which might've prevented perfect contact. Performance is flawless, aside from my gripes with the carb cap. I've never been as happy with an e-nail as I am today, and I'm using a dish and nut that's probably 2 1/2 years old, and a controller box going on 4 years.
Happy Dabbing!
Now THAT was real clicking! 
Should be pretty awesome after a 1 week T-break! 
