Arizer Solo

OF

Well-Known Member
So I have opened it and found one wire broken (a tiny one from the chamber to a small board on it - on the photo). I have no experience with electricity and so, so my question is if someone had had the same problem like me and how did you fix it.

I'm sorry to say but the broken wire is no doubt the result of your disassembly, not an original failure causing your problem. If you don't want it to get any worse, carefully put the oven pack in place and lock it in with the latches. That's what the latches are for, to protect those wires when the assembly is not in the Solo (when it's properly installed the four screws provide this function, the latches aren't needed then).

You'll have to fix the break and any other damage in addition to what the original problem was. Those fine wires are the temperature sensor, the heavy ones the heater element.

I'm sorry to hear your access to Service is so bad. You can probably ship it to the factory but then have to deal with high shipping costs and customs? Sadly, it might be time to replace it as it has at least two serious problems at this point, both of which will need addressing. That broken wire could not have been part of the original problem, without it it will never be able to regulate temperature......funny lights not withstanding.

Regards.

Hotels have safes so even is locked use the safe IMO.

I would secure the box if I were going to use the 'house safe'. Even a signed paper seal would keep the curious from finding out 'what's in the funny box'. A cheap padlock would be better.

OF
 

headdoctor

Well-Known Member
Thanks everyone. I'm glad to hear that the 'vapecase' label comes off. And I'm all for using a padlock and a safe! I assume that Dreamerr is referring to the small room safes, which are theoretically free from the prying eyes of hotel staff (though I know for a fact that hotel security can open them--I've seen it done). Some of those safes are pretty small and, while they would certainly hold a portable vape, I'm not sure that all of them can hold the case. I guess the best advice is: Locked and Loaded!!
 

Bigoss

Well-Known Member
I'm sorry to say but the broken wire is no doubt the result of your disassembly, not an original failure causing your problem. If you don't want it to get any worse, carefully put the oven pack in place and lock it in with the latches. That's what the latches are for, to protect those wires when the assembly is not in the Solo (when it's properly installed the four screws provide this function, the latches aren't needed then).

You'll have to fix the break and any other damage in addition to what the original problem was. Those fine wires are the temperature sensor, the heavy ones the heater element.

I'm sorry to hear your access to Service is so bad. You can probably ship it to the factory but then have to deal with high shipping costs and customs? Sadly, it might be time to replace it as it has at least two serious problems at this point, both of which will need addressing. That broken wire could not have been part of the original problem, without it it will never be able to regulate temperature......funny lights not withstanding.

Regards.



I would secure the box if I were going to use the 'house safe'. Even a signed paper seal would keep the curious from finding out 'what's in the funny box'. A cheap padlock would be better.

OF
Thank you. But you are not right - the wire was broken after I opened it for the first time - if it weren't I would not unscrew those 4 screws... But the result is the same as if I did something wrong.
I have already contacted Service of Arizer, so I will see what they will reply.

Thank you anyway, although you didn't make me happy.
 

Dreamerr

Always in a state of confusion and silliness♀
Bigboss, OF, earlier in this thread explained that that wire breaks just about almost immediately if you take those screws off that metal heater thingy. You may or may not have inadvertently have done it but we have seen this issue so it was a fair assumption. We all love our solos and hope you have a great outcome. Good luck sir.

All he was trying to do was help as we all do.
 

Bigoss

Well-Known Member
Bigboss, OF, earlier in this thread explained that that wire breaks just about almost immediately if you take those screws off that metal heater thingy. You may or may not have inadvertently have done it but we have seen this issue so it was a fair assumption. We all love our solos and hope you have a great outcome. Good luck sir.

All he was trying to do was help as we all do.
I get it, no offence. Everything is possible.
So my question is whether someone tried to send it to repait directly to Canada?

Thanks.
 

syrupy

Authorized Buyer
I would secure the box if I were going to use the 'house safe'. Even a signed paper seal would keep the curious from finding out 'what's in the funny box'. A cheap padlock would be better.

OF

There's a company called pacsafe that makes all kinds of travel cases with exoskeletons that can be secured to anything sturdy. They protect against prying eyes and hands, cutting of the bag, and plasma rifles in the forty watt range. ;):goon::ninja:
 

Caligula

Maximus
Quite honestly a ziptie is enough. If someone is going to bother cutting the tie they would most likely just take the whole case and do it elsewhere. Also its not exactly easy to cut a fully tightened ziptie unless you came prepared with sidecutters or something.

Bonus a black ziptie wont attract as much attention as a masterlock hanging off your case.

That being said arent we really just looking to prevent people from opening it out of curiosity rather than preventing theft? Its not like we chain these things down.
 
Caligula,
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michaelstone

Well-Known Member
I just sent mine in to RMA this morning :( but sent it ovenight, so hopefully coupled with PV's quick shipping replacement will be back before weekend.
 
michaelstone,

Thevaped1

Active Member
HI guys and a gals.:) I wrote earlier about my solo looking like this when I got it.
pY83dvi.jpg



pY83dvi.jpg

when I emailed kevin at arizer this is the response I got " The tiny marks on the stainless steel heater bowl you are asking about are from a quality control process and are nothing to be concerned about. The Stainless Steel heater bowl is made from high end cold rolled steel, cleaned and processed to hi-temp, food and surgical steel standard."
What should I make of this, I dont want to sent the unit back if I dont have to but I guess what im trying to say is what would 'fuckcombustion' do? Should I send is back or keep it?
 
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OF

Well-Known Member
So my question is whether someone tried to send it to repait directly to Canada?

Thanks.

Yes, a couple of folks have posted about doing so, but warned about the high shipping and customs problems (which is why I brought it up....). They might give you some static about opening it up, but I doubt it.

In the end you might gain a lot of time for not much money, and have a new unit?

You're welcome, of course. Best wishes. Again, I'm sorry you're at the far end of a very long supply chain.

Whichever way you go you know how neat a unit Solo is and are sure to enjoy it again.

OF
 

Mrmrmrmr

Well-Known Member
Should have my pvhes gong here on Wednesday. What is everyone's opinion on the pvhes vs the 4hole gong?
 
Mrmrmrmr,

Snappo

Caveat Emptor - "A Billion People Can Be Wrong!"
Accessory Maker
HI guys and a gals.:) I wrote earlier about my solo looking like this when I got it.
pY83dvi.jpg



pY83dvi.jpg

when I emailed kevin at arizer this is the response I got " The tiny marks on the stainless steel heater bowl you are asking about are from a quality control process and are nothing to be concerned about. The Stainless Steel heater bowl is made from high end cold rolled steel, cleaned and processed to hi-temp, food and surgical steel standard."
What should I make of this, I dont want to sent the unit back if I dont have to but I guess what im trying to say is what would 'fuckcombustion' do? Should I send is back or keep it?
You may want to keep it if it works properly. The spots won't effect anything.
Personal preference. PVHE GonGs also have 4 holes except the turbo model, IIRC.
You can pack a fuller/tighter bowl with the PVHES turbo (no 4 glass holes, just one big one w/screen) and still get good draw effort. I like them both!
 
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Mrmrmrmr

Well-Known Member
Anyone who uses a hydratube with their solo here? That's the main reason I'm getting a gong so I have a tighter seal,
The ht is pretty much the only glass I use now , I love the flavor level as well as the water lvl
 
Mrmrmrmr,
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Vaper

Well-Known Member
IDK if this is a question for the Solo thread or @Pipes but I've noticed that my Solo will throttle down to heat level 1 when using the AIO+ as a PA. Is this a problem anyone else has encountered? I thought it was maybe the auto timer but it happened quicker then 12 minutes apart the other day...



@530rasta better get on that. Sale ends on the 31.

My Solo "throttles down" as well while using the OEM PA. As for how much time elapses before this happens, I don't know yet.
 

LazyIdol

Well-Known Member
Anyone who uses a hydratube with their solo here? That's the main reason I'm getting a gong so I have a tighter seal,
The ht is pretty much the only glass I use now , I love the flavor level as well as the water lvl
I have an 18mm Gong and use it with my GBD 7.5'' HT and it works quite well. Not my go to setup as I prefer my ashcatcher + j-hook but it never disappoints
 
LazyIdol,
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Reactions: Snappo

Vaper

Well-Known Member
Yeah I am gutted, I was really looking forward to Solo thick vapour tonight.

I have other options, but I do love to use the Solo with my glass...

Boooo hooooo :( :lol:


I feel for ya, GSH. Was yours an M1C model?
 
Vaper,

poonman

Well-Known Member
HI guys and a gals.:) I wrote earlier about my solo looking like this when I got it.
pY83dvi.jpg



pY83dvi.jpg

when I emailed kevin at arizer this is the response I got " The tiny marks on the stainless steel heater bowl you are asking about are from a quality control process and are nothing to be concerned about. The Stainless Steel heater bowl is made from high end cold rolled steel, cleaned and processed to hi-temp, food and surgical steel standard."
What should I make of this, I dont want to sent the unit back if I dont have to but I guess what im trying to say is what would 'fuckcombustion' do? Should I send is back or keep it?

This is how I clean my chamber regularly ;
I use a very fine screen ( NO2 screens ) , insert it in the chamber
Add iso/qtip on top of screen , use it like a mini-mop .
If scrubbing it , doesn't remove the stains .
I would send it back , and get a shiny New one .
 
poonman,

Vaper

Well-Known Member
Good question, I would like to know this as well, I don't want the replacement to be a faulty M1C1 too :rolleyes:

Here's something interesting to note:

When torontorvaporizer.ca replaced my M1C, it was with an M1A! I sent an e-mail response to TV pointing out the model difference and to date, I've never received a response. I even said how much I liked the M1A over the M1C!
 
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