Arizer Solo

Quetzalcoatl

Quetzalcoatl

DEADY GUERRERO/DIRT COBAIN/GEORGE KUSH
Meach said:
Speaking of fragile...can we get a stainless Steel gong for this by now..wife has the dropsys spent enough on glass to have bought about 3 new solos..lol. I have tried the wongs the flavor changes drastically IMHO..and changing screens was a pain.
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Maybe if you ask nicely, @Ed's TnT could make you a wooden WonG with the steel going straight through to the end inside, so you have a stainless steel bowl and air path with the wood outside of the stem making the joint? My only worry with it (I'm not sure how justified it is) is that since it'll be all metal it will conduct a lot of heat throughout. That'll draw more power from the Solo as it transfers heat to the metal and has to keep heating up, and when you're done using it, it may be too hot to handle if it were all SS. The wood around the stem seems like a good call in this case.

jackherer said:
Okay that's interesting, I didn't know about the different caps for the solo.

I have gone ringless for a while now. I actually prefer it, just have to warn solo-newcomers about the swing!

And I have secured the cap now with a bit of masking tape that I had to hand, similarly to how pfte would be used.
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Sorry to hear about that. I didn't see it recommended, but for the record, you can stick the o-ring on a piece of duct tape and take it to some sandpaper to thin the o-ring out. With careful measurement (the Solo in question), you should be able to thin it down to a point where it keeps it in place while screwed down while not providing much, if any, resistance.
 
ataxian

ataxian

PALE BLUE DOT
Quetzalcoatl said:
Maybe if you ask nicely, @Ed's TnT could make you a wooden WonG with the steel going straight through to the end inside, so you have a stainless steel bowl and air path with the wood outside of the stem making the joint? My only worry with it (I'm not sure how justified it is) is that since it'll be all metal it will conduct a lot of heat throughout. That'll draw more power from the Solo as it transfers heat to the metal and has to keep heating up, and when you're done using it, it may be too hot to handle if it were all SS. The wood around the stem seems like a good call in this case.


Sorry to hear about that. I didn't see it recommended, but for the record, you can stick the o-ring on a piece of duct tape and take it to some sandpaper to thin the o-ring out. With careful measurement (the Solo in question), you should be able to thin it down to a point where it keeps it in place while screwed down while not providing much, if any, resistance.
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I can't handle wood on my lips?
My stems on my WonG'S are too short.
I blew it! (ordered the wrong one)

@t-dub say's: I'm UNCIVILIZED!
He's right. (sorry my bad)!
 
Ed's TnT

Ed's TnT

Woodsman
Manufacturer
Quetzalcoatl said:
Maybe if you ask nicely, @Ed's TnT could make you a wooden WonG with the steel going straight through to the end inside, so you have a stainless steel bowl and air path with the wood outside of the stem making the joint? My only worry with it (I'm not sure how justified it is) is that since it'll be all metal it will conduct a lot of heat throughout. That'll draw more power from the Solo as it transfers heat to the metal and has to keep heating up, and when you're done using it, it may be too hot to handle if it were all SS. The wood around the stem seems like a good call in this case.
Click to expand...

Hey hey, thanks for spreading the word of my work bro! Not sure if you have seen what I am up to in up and coming desktop thread, might oughta give it a look if you dont! I feel your concerns for the extra heat, not sure that would be a great idea, that and I am not doing custom work at this point, I am more focused on a middle of November launch for my own log rig! Lots of good stuff coming yall, give it a look and let me know what you think! Thanks again homie!
 
Buzzbomb Almighty

Buzzbomb Almighty

Well-Known Member
There's no good way to set a loaded j-hook and solo down so I had to do a little crafting. :lol: I cut a long oval out of the bottom of a plastic 1 lb margarine container to accommodate the bottom of the Sherlock and then cut out a section of toilet paper roll to fit snugly, touch the table and protrude about 1/4" above the plastic. Problem solved.
 
OF

OF

Well-Known Member
Buzzbomb Almighty said:
There's no good way to set a loaded j-hook and solo down so I had to do a little crafting.
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Sounds like fun. IIRC back when I ran into this I ended up standing the Solo upright again and putting the end of the glass in a teacup with a wad of paper towels in it. Easier to cobble up than your creation, but not as fun.

OF
 
S

sickmanfraud

Well-Known Member
Buzzbomb Almighty said:
There's no good way to set a loaded j-hook and solo down so I had to do a little crafting. :lol: I cut a long oval out of the bottom of a plastic 1 lb margarine container to accommodate the bottom of the Sherlock and then cut out a section of toilet paper roll to fit snugly, touch the table and protrude about 1/4" above the plastic. Problem solved.
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do you have a picture?
 
ataxian

ataxian

PALE BLUE DOT
invertedisdead said:
Old schoolers tell me all the time that joints are the ONLY way to actually taste the COLAS.

Talk about UNCIVILIZED!
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@invertedisdead I can't smoke joints anymore?
S9UazAc.jpg

I love the SOLO!
Cheap
Quick
Flavor = CIVILIZED

@Dr. Soxhlet thank for the heads up on the AIR STEM!

Found another Author:

Professor from USC in GEOLOGY = CILIVIZED
 
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abby

Well-Known Member
Hi guys. My old solo is getting old. Battery barely lasts a 20 minutes. How do I go about replacing the battery?

Also, whats the absolute shortest gong thats available for the arizer solo? Also, is the arizer air plastic tip stem worth buying if you have a solo?

Also, is there some sort of a '2 in 1' 'multi-application' adjustable power adapter that can be adjusted to both charge and 'pass through power to' the solo? I'm thinking some sort of a cheap power adapter with adjustable knobs for amperage and voltage. idk.
 
VapeHeadz

VapeHeadz

Well-Known Member
just buy a replacement battery and then all you need is a really small philips head screw driver to take off the base, the rest is pretty easy, unclip old one, re clip and position in new battery and then put back together and re screw on the base.

I did mine several months ago. Pretty easy! :)


I just use the 2 different types of standard glass stems (straight and bent) so I can't really comment on the other bits of your post.
 
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abby

Well-Known Member
VapeHeadz said:
I bought a 2nd solo just incase so I have a back up. I need my portable!
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I bought an arizer air last week to replace my solo, I think maybe i should've just bought another solo. The air has significantly worse draw resistance, more than what I was expecting after reading a good bit of reviews and threads. Maybe its something i'm sensitive to, but I've ended up using my solo with its 20 minute battery life more than my air. Good to know that battery isn't more of a chore to replace than it is.
 
A

abby

Well-Known Member
SilentRunner said:
You can't upgrade a solo. Most people would get a second solo/air

I got a grasshopper which is a really nice toy if it works, but has some problems: Ridiculous shipping estimates, battery lasts 1.5 sessions, heat. It produces so much vapor it always makes me cough
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The grasshopper seems like something I'd buy the "2.0" version of.

Would you consider the boundless vapes an upgrade to the arizer vapes or do you have to shell out for a mighty for something better than the arizer?
 
S

sickmanfraud

Well-Known Member
abby said:
The grasshopper seems like something I'd buy the "2.0" version of.

Would you consider the boundless vapes an upgrade to the arizer vapes or do you have to shell out for a mighty for something better than the arizer?
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Boundless, no questions.
 
sickmanfraud,
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OF

OF

Well-Known Member
abby said:
Also, whats the absolute shortest gong thats available for the arizer solo? Also, is the arizer air plastic tip stem worth buying if you have a solo?

Also, is there some sort of a '2 in 1' 'multi-application' adjustable power adapter that can be adjusted to both charge and 'pass through power to' the solo? I'm thinking some sort of a cheap power adapter with adjustable knobs for amperage and voltage. idk.
Click to expand...

The shortest GonG I have is the one from PV.

Yes, IMO, the Air stems are worth trying. They make a useful 'poor man's GonG' and are also good for general use I think. For ten bucks you can find out?

Battery replacement is easy, many of us have done it, but I'd stick with the factory battery if you don't know what you're doing. Batteries from EBay have risks. Pack from CentiZen are a solid call IMO, the man knows his stuff.

abby said:
Does this seem legit enough? http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Arizer-Solo-Battery-Replacement-3400-mAh-New-High-Capacity-/221583944478
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Depends on what you want. Yes, for the time being they will easily outperform a dead battery? Happy customers are to be expected. However, consider, if those cells made a superior battery don't you think Arizer would be using them? They 'did everything else right', didn't they? They take a long view on such things, that battery has to last in a tough job.

Some batteries work great alone, but not in matched sets like in a battery pack. As long as they're matched they work like a fine team of horses and the wagon goes straight and fast. But, when one gets weaker than the other, the stronger one 'beats him up all the more'. The good cell hammers the weak one into an early grave. The pack must stay balanced though it's life. Building packs from random (unsorted) cells is sure to build a hot but short lived pack, even if the 'kitchen table makers' used cells with welded tabs like the pros do (soldering to the cell directly is 'playing dice with the devil', no legit maker does that).

There's a big clue that laptops and Electric Cars use the same class of 'low power' cells as well, they too are wise. Go to a 'battery house' and check what cells they sell with tabs (to make packs from), you won't find such 'better' cells.

IMO Arizer did it right. They used the 'state of the art' cells, a solid protection PCB and a (rare) thermal protection unit:

JpNbVuU.jpg


That's the protection PCB between the cells and the thermal protector (the white thing at the top), they didn't include that thermal protection (not normally there.....) to run the cost up, they saw a real need for it? Notice that when I rebuilt the pack above I used appropriate cells with welded tabs (the solder connections are isolated from the body of the cell) of the type intended to build packs, not the highest capacity in the book.

Your call, but my advice is above. Unless you know a LOT about this, and are using selected cells with welded tabs designed for the duty and are including the thermal protection Arizer thinks is important (like I did....) I'd stick with the factory (or Centizen's) offering. I would not be trusting some random guy on EBay who's not even using his real name........

OF
 
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