Dr. Soxhlet
SOLO Vaporized Cannabis is my Best Medicine
Fall flowers are my favorite. Fresh dried is best. With the Solo all those great terpenes can actually be tasted.
Arizer Solo
- Thread starter Rockwise
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- arizer battery powered
Fall flowers are my favorite. Fresh dried is best. With the Solo all those great terpenes can actually be tasted.
TheWhisper
Well-Known Member
There are no accepted solutions for improving the grip of a stem in the bowl while the Solo is upside down, are there? I believe that the O ring modification is only to prevent spinning of stems, right?
Taking apart and then reassembling my Solo to replace my battery appears to have slightly widened/loosened my bowl's mouth. Now, my stems fall out with no provocation at all when my Solo is turned upside down. This causes problems when using it with my water device.
Taking apart and then reassembling my Solo to replace my battery appears to have slightly widened/loosened my bowl's mouth. Now, my stems fall out with no provocation at all when my Solo is turned upside down. This causes problems when using it with my water device.
Buzzbomb Almighty
Well-Known Member
Little wobbly, is it? Mine are really loose on the 14mm gong, not too bad on the 18mm. Try putting an o-ring on the outside of your stem and moving the oven cover to hold it in place. It doesn't work on the little 14mm gong, that is so slim an o-ring won't stay on it
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/arizer-solo.3833/page-1474#post-962665
http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/arizer-solo.3833/page-1474#post-962665
VapeHeadz
Well-Known Member
Yeah on my older black Solo I have an o ring and it holds the stem in nicely but makes draw a little bit harder, I can hold it upside down and the stem wont come out...
But on my newer silver solo the glass stem is slightly loose and it falls out if tipped up side down with some of my stems. I couldn't even get an o ring to stick in the silver solo the few times I tried, the o ring kept doubling over and would not sit flush like on my older black solo. I gave up trying to get it to fit in snuggly like on my older black solo. At least it has a bit better draw but I do have to watch the stem doesnt slide out if I use it on certain angles like lying on the couch or in bed.
But on my newer silver solo the glass stem is slightly loose and it falls out if tipped up side down with some of my stems. I couldn't even get an o ring to stick in the silver solo the few times I tried, the o ring kept doubling over and would not sit flush like on my older black solo. I gave up trying to get it to fit in snuggly like on my older black solo. At least it has a bit better draw but I do have to watch the stem doesnt slide out if I use it on certain angles like lying on the couch or in bed.
OF
Well-Known Member
Yep, that's what it's for all right. To resist the bent stem running away from you when you try to hit it.
The maker doesn't consider a loose stem a defect, in fact some see it as a design feature. Adding a ring definitely blocks some airflow to counter this I ended up 'notching' the ring so it won't seal this flow off.
OF
kellya86
Herb gardener...
Maybe a small amount of ptfe tape on the thread would be enough to lock it...
OF
Well-Known Member
Yes, it's been discussed several times that I know of.
Misuse of o-rings (too tight) probably caused it. Continuing to do so damaged the threads a bit more each time.
Tape works (both ways.....) as does 'egging' (distorting out of round) the cap. Sometimes a turn or two of dental floss in the male threads will also tighten them up enough.
OF
pulpF
Well-Known Member
Yes, no doubt you are right here. When I used the o-rings it was a battle to get it to screw on, seemed like they were too thick? (They're standard ones people use though, my friends have the same on their Solos). Not heard of the dental floss technique, thanks for that.
I had forgotten about this stuff.
Thanks both for your replies.
OF
Well-Known Member
I was afraid that would eventually happen, all the 'unimportant details' would get removed from the idea and 'I read it on the web' would take over.
There is no such thing as "standard ones", never was. Even at the very start they needed careful fitting to prevent this and the tabs on the base being broken from using the cap as a clamp rather than a retainer. The original rings fit the then available Solos fairly well, no adjustments needed in most cases. However, from the start, discussions of sanding the ring thinner if needed were part of the tip. Then Arizer changed the caps:
It's pretty clear that the newer caps (on the left) are thicker and therefore need a thinner ring? Going to the next thinner size cord ring (1/6 not 3/32 on the original, #015 replaced #113) became the 'best try' suggestion, although care was still needed and sometimes sanding or other fitting. Those that used 113s with thick caps and just 'screwed them down anyway'.
I'll give you even money you were using a 113 not a 015? Not that it matters, with compromised threads on the cap you can afford no clamping pressure at all, probably best without the ring?
OF
pulpF
Well-Known Member
Okay that's interesting, I didn't know about the different caps for the solo.
I have gone ringless for a while now. I actually prefer it, just have to warn solo-newcomers about the swing!
And I have secured the cap now with a bit of masking tape that I had to hand, similarly to how pfte would be used.
OF
Well-Known Member
IIRC the change was over a year ago, and not 'smooth' as older stock units were out and it even seemed like Arizer was using up old stock on new production (a guess)? Anyway, there is no hard cutoff date nor are serial numbers of any use. The owner has to pay attention or take the risk. Too bad that part isn't coming with the advice to stick the rings in. The 'why' there got changed too, I think.
I too like no ring (or best of both worlds, a notched ring) so you can still use the 'tip the stem to control the draw' trick. The new guys will learn to duck I think as we all do. I was just going batty (more so than normal.....) with my casual garden vaping style. I'd be otherwise enjoying the day when I'd poke myself in the teeth or chin copping another hit in the process.
If that 'bit of masking tape' really is where the PTFE tape would be (in the threads) I suggest you get it out ASAP. The adhesive is going to get baked hard as a rock in short order. In such a case I'd use a hypodermic needle to lay a bead of Goo Gone on the gap and let it wick in over time.......best avoided. Use something with no adhesive, especially adhesives like on common masking tape that can too easily dry out. Plumbing tape, dental floss, or even a narrow wedge of aluminum foil should jam up what's left of the threads well enough to hold the cap on.
Regards,
OF
VapeHeadz
Well-Known Member
The caps changing is the reason I cant get an o ring to fit on my newer silver solo? And yes I think I damaged the thread on it trying.
Where as my older black solo the o ring is easy to get in there with a straight stem and then slide the cap back over and it screws down perfect, then slip the straight glass stem out and the o ring is perfect. I couldnt achieve that on my newer silver solo.
Where as my older black solo the o ring is easy to get in there with a straight stem and then slide the cap back over and it screws down perfect, then slip the straight glass stem out and the o ring is perfect. I couldnt achieve that on my newer silver solo.
Buzzbomb Almighty
Well-Known Member
I'm not putting o-rings under my cap, I don't want to bust the corners off the bottom plate, I don't want to futz the threads, and it just sounds dirty.
Dr. Soxhlet
SOLO Vaporized Cannabis is my Best Medicine
I had to use aluminum foil on my black Solo. I have two Solos. I installed the #113 o ring on each when I got them and seldom unscrew the cap. I have not had tab breakage because I also installed small washers on the bottom of the unit. I remember ordering a new cap from Arizer for $5.00 plus shipping a while back.
OF
Well-Known Member
Caps often don't interchange, if you have more than one Solo try swapping caps and see? I see it as the cap and body being 'matched' to each other rather than interchangeable parts in the normal sense. If it fits OK it's good of course, but a replacement cap is not always a solution.
The Aluminum threads are soft. Having the cap 'slip off' damages both the cap and body, it is to be avoided. Once you mess up the body threads, a replacement cap is less effective.
The washers are a good idea I think, I've done it after the fact to repair cracks and broken tabs. But it leaves the washers and screws 'proud' (sticking up), ready to scratch stuff. I've used self adhesive neoprene gasket material and the stick on felt you'd use on the bottom of lamps and the like to protect the table top (the gasket I notched in the corners, the felt over the screw tops leaving 'bumps' in the corners). You have to cut windows for the air holes and charging ports of course.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005I58UXQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A6X92DW/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Both are, I think, an improvement over the hard plastic base giving it a 'solid feel' putting it down and picking it up.
One other thought on the broken tabs front: if you want you can repair the broken tabs with the appropriate grade of epoxy and some care. This is what I used:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003NUGL9S/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
There are other 'plastic epoxies' that should work, but be careful here as typical epoxies can 'lose their grip' over time sometimes. Specific 'plastic' epoxies are weaker than normal, a trade off for holding well over time. Be sure not to glue stuff together of course. I put a layer of (thin) tape over the metal corner of the body and poke a hole for the screw with a toothpick. I then coat the screw with wax or grease so the glue won't stick and put it in place. Then pack the glue in with a toothpick carefully.
When the glue is mostly set (test the mixed glue on the card or scrap you mixed it on) then trim the 'flash' (excess) off with a razor blade carefully while it's still soft enough to cut. Be careful to slice cleanly but not disturb the glue remaining too much as it will not bond well if you disturb it too much. Then back the screw out of the hole and let the glue harden normally. You can even dye the glue black to hide your handiwork if you want:
http://www.tapplastics.com/product/fiberglass/resin_fillers_dyes/tap_premium_pigments/50
It only takes a tiny bit of pigment to dye the glue, mix it in with the glue or hardener (or both) before mixing them together so it doesn't change the 'hardening clock' on the glue (be careful to use a different toothpick for each......).
Alternatively you can just permanently use Pipe's excellent base as several Members do.
OF
TheWhisper
Well-Known Member
For such a hardy device that can withstand drops from heights that would obliterate other devices, it's funny how fragile the Solo is in some other small respects. 
pulpF
Well-Known Member
Yep, the foil has sorted it for now. It's so nice when you put up with a small annoyance (like the cap falling off) for a while, and then you fix it and appreciate it... until I forget.
OF
Well-Known Member
It's been discussed a lot for normal (dry) stem use with little/no success but I don't recall the idea of mating it up to a glass connector (which removes a lot of 'hot stem' problems.....). AFAIK nobody has tried it and survived long enough to tell us, you can be the first!
It should be a fairly easy task once you find suitable tube to fit the Solo. You could even try undersize tube with an o-ring under the cap (being careful not to screw it down too tight....) for experimental use. You can put an 'internal snap ring' in the tube to make the bottom of the bowl and put a screen over that (perhaps the domed screen?) like PD and Ed do.
A o-ring, or better still two (one a bit thicker than the other) should do a great job sealing to the GonG fitting on any handy WT.
Fun idea, but I'm not sure how well it will work given SS conducts heat much better than glass. And Solo is depending on conduction through the walls. The walls are, of course, temperature controlled so you should get to the same temperatures eventually I'd think, but my guess is adding a 'heat sink' up the stem will slow the action down even more?
Easy enough to try.
As to breaking stems.......no offense but Ataxian is six furlongs ahead of you gaining ground with every drop....
The guy gets fan mail from other glass breakers you know, your wife giving you grief about that?
OF
ataxian
PALE BLUE DOT
I have no GonG left?
1,000's of dollars on glass!
I'm so ashamed.
I'm not worthy to vaporize.
Using unbreakable mods and shatter. Flowers I miss. SOLO I love however I can't use it because it's too expensive to use in my case!
If breaking glass is not an issue then the SOLO is the ticket! I might go back to joints? However the tatse is horrible? Maybe I will order more GonG'S?
Planet vape has PHVES 18mm
GonG'S i love. Too bad they don't use TI2 or unbreable material?
I'm happy to hear that others break glass too!
I am CIVILIZED sometimes?
sickmanfraud
Well-Known Member
Have you considered that in some cases CIVILIZED = no glass pieces to break?
Check out the CFX and CFV from Boundless.
A man of your refined tastes may not feel civilized with less than a Mighty or Crafty.