Pen Xmax V3Pro vaporizer, convection, on-demand&session.

RustyOldNail

SEARCH for the treasure...
If you know the answer, but posted that instead, you’re kind of a…….

mAh are milliampere hours.
So I ordered another battery and a charger. Can anyone here confirm I can use a 3000 MAH, as most 18650’s seem to be interchangeable as long as they have the casing…..

What charger model, what battery brand and model did you ALREADY buy?

mAh are milliampere hours. That’s the CAPACITY.
In general terms:
LARGER CAPACITY = LESS AMPS (power)
HIGHER AMPS = LESS CAPACITY

3000mAh is a high CAPACITY battery. It will work fine, but for devices that are POWER hungry, one might consider a HIGH AMP battery. I don’t own this device yet, but if it comes with a high capacity lithium battery, your 3000 mAh will be fine. But NOT all lithium batteries are the same. Stick to the main brands and models, or you end up with REWRAPS, and have no way to know what’s actually INSIDE, under a wrapper. If you search on FC, you will see a few threads that are dedicated to battery safety and recommendations on battery brands and models, as well as TRUSTED online battery stores.
 

VisiblyVaped

Well-Known Member
mAh are milliampere hours.


What charger model, what battery brand and model did you ALREADY buy?

mAh are milliampere hours. That’s the CAPACITY.
In general terms:
LARGER CAPACITY = LESS AMPS (power)
HIGHER AMPS = LESS CAPACITY

3000mAh is a high CAPACITY battery. It will work fine, but for devices that are POWER hungry, one might consider a HIGH AMP battery. I don’t own this device yet, but if it comes with a high capacity lithium battery, your 3000 mAh will be fine. But NOT all lithium batteries are the same. Stick to the main brands and models, or you end up with REWRAPS, and have no way to know what’s actually INSIDE, under a wrapper. If you search on FC, you will see a few threads that are dedicated to battery safety and recommendations on battery brands and models, as well as TRUSTED online battery stores.
Thank you sir. I only bought one as I was unsure, and figured at least I know the charger is right and I could go that day and pick up another 18650 at the local battery place if I desire and am wrong. I was familiar with the MAH referring to capacity, but not familiar with any other smaller intricacies that may differ, hence the question….
I bought a brand called Epoc

from probably a scam site but hey at least it shipped
 
VisiblyVaped,
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Pukka

Well-Known Member
So I ordered another battery and a charger. Can anyone here confirm I can use a 3000 MAH, as most 18650’s seem to be interchangeable as long as they have the casing…..
The mAh rating isn't as important as the maximum amp draw rating. Think of it like this: mAh is like a car's gas tank, it lets you figure how far you can go; amp draw ratings is like a maximum engine rpm guide, drive a 5k rpm engine at 10k rpm and see what you get 🙃

That being said, I believe the V3 Pro uses a 15 amp flat-top battery and you can use any 18650 rated above that. I'm using P26 Molicells (2600mAh 30 amp) currently and I'm pretty happy with them.

Edit: Forgot to add (old man's disease):

Google "battery mooch" and read his battery stuff. One of the smartest guys on the web when exploring vaping battery choices 🙂
 
Last edited:

RustyOldNail

SEARCH for the treasure...
Thank you sir. I only bought one as I was unsure, and figured at least I know the charger is right and I could go that day and pick up another 18650 at the local battery place if I desire and am wrong. I was familiar with the MAH referring to capacity, but not familiar with any other smaller intricacies that may differ, hence the question….
I bought a brand called Epoc

from probably a scam site but hey at least it shipped

Epoch, is a rewrap, but since you bought it from a REPUTABLE store, which 18650batteries, is, they are probably fine, and hopefully accurately rated. I see KenZero posted a link to test review. Molicels are GOOD, so look for those next time.
 

Abysmal Vapor

fuckmylife.com :D :D :D
This is all very useful info and I appreciate each one of you.

that being said, is it safe to gather from said info that my battery will work lol? It appears that way
While it may work,imo bottom line is to not buy re-wraps in future :). My brand of choice is Sony VTC ,because i found a local authorized dealer that gives them 12 months warranty and there is someone i can slap in the face if mine gets burned,lol. VTC6 is 30A /3000 mah produced in Singapore and VTC6 RED is also 30A/3000 mah and made in Japan.Both are solid choice.
 

VisiblyVaped

Well-Known Member
apologies was attempting a funny, I am scared of doing anything outside factory bc I always break things. RIP to so many RC cars lol
My apologies as well. I was mid-intense workout and probably got agitated for literally no reason. Sorry dude!


While it may work,imo bottom line is to not buy re-wraps in future :). My brand of choice is Sony VTC ,because i found a local authorized dealer that gives them 12 months warranty and there is someone i can slap in the face if mine gets burned,lol. VTC6 is 30A /3000 mah produced in Singapore and VTC6 RED is also 30A/3000 mah and made in Japan.Both are solid choice.
thank you. As someone mentioned above, at least it’s from a reputable seller, so I should hopefully be ok in this instance. It’s just to have a backup battery so I never have to stop my xmax session due to juice………
I’m in the process of exchanging a desktop so I may be all portables for a bit
 

Pukka

Well-Known Member

cliffhanger1

Well-Known Member
This reddit post is interesting

https://www.reddit.com/r/vaporents/comments/qzzovm
It seems that early V3 Pro production units might have a better response to restricting the air intake, as later units have such a dynamic tweak from factory, to offer denser vapour

Possibly the first iteration are noisier in-use too, because of the increased airflow
I also noticed changes. i sold my first two units and now a brand new one. on the first two devices i blocked most of the air holes, on the new one i don't block any. The reason why I sold the 2 was that the third unit brings even darker ABV than the darkest of my first two devices. And I bought it mainly because I wanted an ABV as dark as my 2nd device has. Then it was little more dark again.
 

pakalolo

Toolbag v1.1 (candidate)
Staff member
I can't remember if it was discussed here before, but how accurate the v3p's temp reading in your opinions?

First of all, I am famous for pointing out that accurate temperature is not important. Temperature is just one of many variables and in many cases it's not even the most important. As long as the reading is consistent and somewhere around the actual temperature, that is all you need.

Having said that, the way that I test lets me see what the vapour production looks like at various temperature settings. From experience, I know what to expect at 160°C (320°F) e.g., and my V3 Pro delivers pretty much the vapour I should get at that setting: light and tasty. The same is true for my other two data points. At 190°C (374°F) I get moderate vapour (The Orbiter is clouded up but I can still see the downstem), and at 220°C (428°F) the vapour is thick enough to white-wall the Orbiter. Keeping with the theme of "close is all you need", I don't see the point of trying to measure more than these three levels of vapour production.
 

XpeeN

Active Member
First of all, I am famous for pointing out that accurate temperature is not important. Temperature is just one of many variables and in many cases it's not even the most important. As long as the reading is consistent and somewhere around the actual temperature, that is all you need.

Having said that, the way that I test lets me see what the vapour production looks like at various temperature settings. From experience, I know what to expect at 160°C (320°F) e.g., and my V3 Pro delivers pretty much the vapour I should get at that setting: light and tasty. The same is true for my other two data points. At 190°C (374°F) I get moderate vapour (The Orbiter is clouded up but I can still see the downstem), and at 220°C (428°F) the vapour is thick enough to white-wall the Orbiter. Keeping with the theme of "close is all you need", I don't see the point of trying to measure more than these three levels of vapour production.
Thanks. I just wondered if I could recommend this vape to a med patient instead of a medical-certified vape like the mighty, because they usually need specific terps as medicine.
 

VisiblyVaped

Well-Known Member
Sheeesh you are quick, thank you so much! Cant wait for everything to arrive.
Even for US customers they’re pretty solid. Good people
Thanks. I just wondered if I could recommend this vape to a med patient instead of a medical-certified vape like the mighty, because they usually need specific terps as medicine.
I can’t see why you couldn’t. The temperature control is very precise
 

pakalolo

Toolbag v1.1 (candidate)
Staff member
The temperature control is very precise

This is true. The precision is one degree, Farenheit or Celsius. The question however, was about accuracy.

Until someone (paging @Stu) tests it with a temperature probe, we can only judge the accuracy by the output as I descibed above. Even if it is tested, that would only represent a single device. You'd need to measure several to see how consistent they are. We already know that silver units are different from black ones, but how does that affect the heater temperature? Where is the temperature sensor located inside the V3 Pro? Is it measuring the heater or atempting to measure the load? How does the temperature change during a draw? How many degrees does it shift during a light draw as opposed to a strong one? For me, here's the important question: does it matter?

You can probably see where I'm going here. I don't think it matters at all.
 
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