Radwin Bodnic
Well-Known Member
This, exactly :
Vapman
- Thread starter spyder
- Start date
-
- Tags
- flame powered
ATLelbow
Well-Known Member
That's hardcore. I like the limited edition, but already have a pure walnut so couldn't pull the trigger on getting it. Though I so nearly did. I discussed the gold plating idea on the springs etc w Rene a while back, so good to see it done. Looks fantastic.
#62 in da house
Electrofever
Well-Known Member
Be carefull, that is a real trapAlso because of @Dr. G I've contacted René and he does have an ebony vapman available
As for the cleaning, I went once with the magic eraser and it ended up really nice. But I did hear, and it seems to confirm, that if you rub too much it can damage the coating, so maybe not do it too often. Mustard seems a good way to go aswell, pretty natural !
And last point, yes I wonder too who is behind the buyer, who must have been really fast, I contacted @Die_Toffifee only 18 minutes after he posted all of his VM, and it was allready too late. Yes, I’d love to see the family pic
simba
@weedanwine
Be carefull, that is a real trap
Absolutely! I've resisted another Vapman before because of this but ebony
and getting a backup is alright 
Dr. G
Vapman Collector*Vapman Beta Tester
I saw it and it is gorgeous...enjoy your life and Vapman. If you can get it do so. A marvelous simple pleasure...Cheers!Absolutely! I've resisted another Vapman before because of this but ebony
kokolokokolokon
Well-Known Member
Did anyone share videos showing the results with the vapman station? To see how it should be. Sometimes I notices ok results with herb at 7-8 and sometimes poor results even at 9. And with hash i need some reheats at 9.
I did read from some of you that you use it at 3, 5, 6…..
I did read from some of you that you use it at 3, 5, 6…..
T9R
Well-Known Member
I have the old black version, which is 1-6, but I never have to go beyond 4 to get visible vapor on the second or third hit (similar to torching). Hash included btw. And no reheating.
So it doesn't sound quite right that you have to push it like that IMO. Could be a calibration issue?
ATLelbow
Well-Known Member
Man I just cleaned the bowl and went from grimy to shiny. Caked up way less pretty much gone except for small patches.Over the years, I have tried out a few cleaning rituals.
In the meantime, I've arrived at “quick and dirty”, so every 2-3 weeks the workhorse is cleaned mainly with a brush.
It's really dirty and clogged, so the cleaning is worthwhile!
I use 2 brushes, one for the rough work and one to clean the dirty brush. (Pig bristles, no plastic!) I bought these brushes from René, the new ones are also very good.
The pan is heated up properly for this, then the brush is used at the first air hole. Then heat up again and continue.
From experience, I hardly touch the mica, just a quick brush over it is enough. The patina protects the surface very well.
Sometimes I still use this Magic Sponge, but only for a quick wipe.
In the second part, I also use the familiar needle to clean the air tubes, also when hot.
The best result is achieved by removing the tip of the needle.
The result is good enough for me.
The middlepiece and mouthpiece are also roughly cleaned, I'm so lazy, I don't even have the screws on, but clamp the filter part to the wood with the two tabs. As I only clean with a brush and a pipe-cleaner, there is always some resin left over, so the filter part holds better.
We don't want to conceal the advantages of laziness.
I added to my Isopropyl alcohol method and drops of sanitizer on a fully hot pan, with all the knowledge you guys gave here on cleaning. Magic wipes / sponge whatever it is called where one is works great.
I saved money because I thought it was a lost cause and I'd have to get a new bowl.
Appreciate the heads up on info everyone.
Gourmet
Well-Known Member
I can confirm that the result can vary depending on the strain of weed, the amount of large trychomes and the degree of grinding at the same heating level. Some strains need significantly more heat than others.
With hash, I preheat both VM and the sieves at the highest level, because I mostly use two screens and make a “sandwich”. This keeps the filter clean.
To preserve the full aroma, I cut the hash into very thin slices with a sharp knife.
It is also normal for me to do several heating processes per filling. Only when the herb is dark brown like coffee powder have most of the active ingredients been dissolved. Stirring from time to time is also part of the process.
Btw. I have one of the blue station, first edition, works like a charm for years !
kokolokokolokon
Well-Known Member
maybe. Sometimes I try to set it on 1, heat it one time, and then set it on 9….and seems like it has a little more of power. But normally, to get visible vapor (not huge clouds) with hash I need to heat the vapman 3 consecutive times at 9, I take the hit on the third one.
Like any other vape I have. But looks under powered anyway (and damn, I want to use the station! It is beautiful and clean!).
I use to chop/grind the hash with my hands to get more flavor too! I dont use the sandwich method because I find the filter and metal path easier to clean than the mesh
I wish i have a solid mesh for traditional hash (I will try to make one).How do you “preheat” the station? I mean, it needs the preheat, if not, the white light tells you it isn’t ready.
My preheat use to be with some heat ups on the station, with the hash on the mesh. After a bowl the station gets hot because I need like 3 heat ups every puff, and ~6 puffs to kill the little amount (so ~18 heat ups of the station). (Between puffs the vapman cool down a little since I dont like to do hit after hit…and if I do it…the vapman gets very hot…).
Maybe a power supply problem? (It would be strange since this device is a slow heating device…not an IH or something like that)
Dr. G
Vapman Collector*Vapman Beta Tester
Greetings Everyone,
My two cents...I use the S & B grinder the XL one. It is an amazing grinder for a plastic thing...makes the herb perfect for Vapman. I use the scoop assist and get a good amount of herb in the chamber. My Vapman Station is set at under 3. I have the green version. I start to see clouds after the second heat up...I take a good five times and the herb is nicely roasted but never burned. Then, while hot I clean it each time...always clean and ready.
My two cents...I use the S & B grinder the XL one. It is an amazing grinder for a plastic thing...makes the herb perfect for Vapman. I use the scoop assist and get a good amount of herb in the chamber. My Vapman Station is set at under 3. I have the green version. I start to see clouds after the second heat up...I take a good five times and the herb is nicely roasted but never burned. Then, while hot I clean it each time...always clean and ready.
coolbreeze
Well-Known Member
It sounds like you may need to adjust the heater stand in the station. What you describe sounds just like the results I was having when my Vapmans didn't seat correctly on the stand. I adjusted it and now most vapmans heat just like they do on the black station. For herbs I get a deep roast w/ most VMs at about 4, for hash I'm at about 6-7.maybe. Sometimes I try to set it on 1, heat it one time, and then set it on 9….and seems like it has a little more of power. But normally, to get visible vapor (not huge clouds) with hash I need to heat the vapman 3 consecutive times at 9, I take the hit on the third one.
Like any other vape I have. But looks under powered anyway (and damn, I want to use the station! It is beautiful and clean!).
I use to chop/grind the hash with my hands to get more flavor too! I dont use the sandwich method because I find the filter and metal path easier to clean than the mesh
How do you “preheat” the station? I mean, it needs the preheat, if not, the white light tells you it isn’t ready.
My preheat use to be with some heat ups on the station, with the hash on the mesh. After a bowl the station gets hot because I need like 3 heat ups every puff, and ~6 puffs to kill the little amount (so ~18 heat ups of the station). (Between puffs the vapman cool down a little since I dont like to do hit after hit…and if I do it…the vapman gets very hot…).
Maybe a power supply problem? (It would be strange since this device is a slow heating device…not an IH or something like that)
I would try that, it may solve all your problems.
Gourmet
Well-Known Member
To be clear, I heat up the Vapman and screens before I put the hash in.
However, I only need one heating process for this. Logically, the station is in the “orange state” before the Vapman is heated up.
Normally I can make 3-4 draws with Hash until it is largely sucked dry. (the waxes remain)
Often less is more, for my needs I perfer to only cover half of the sieve with very thin layers,
at the beginning there are a lot of dissolved active ingredients.
I can't imagine that the new station has less power than the previous models.
I also suspect that the Vapman is not sitting perfectly on the “station saddle”.
Perhaps you can try GENTLY pressing the Vapman onto the heating mold to achieve better full contact.
If the heating result is then noticeably better, it was simply due to a better geometry setting.
As the Vapman is a artisanal handcrafted product, small inaccuracies may occur. This can usually be corrected with a little gentle pressure.
If that doesn't work at all, I would contact Vapman customer service to investigate your case further.
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kokolokokolokon
Well-Known Member
I did it some time ago, but maybe I did it wrong (sure
). I should try it more than once.Any point if reference to know it is well done?
I didnt try to set the stand again because of this. I tried it but i saw no difference
coolbreeze
Well-Known Member
What I did was loosen the screws slightly and move the pole slightly in the direction i thoguht it needed to go, and then I placed the Vapman on it and verified that it was unobstructed by the wall, then I rotated it and did the same, moving the pole if necessary, and then turning it to the 3rd position and adjusting that, as well. I went around another time to make sure.I did it some time ago, but maybe I did it wrong (sure
Any point if reference to know it is well done?
When you've got it centered so that your Vapman is not touching the wall, it will sit straight up and there will be no wiggle when you touch it (although there will be play when you try to turn it). If it wiggles with a touch, it may still be hung on the wall a little and not solidly seated.
If you have more than one you'll have to adjust to those as well and hope you find a happy medium where they all work well. I have been able to, for the most part.
Hopefully another go will solve it for you. Mine really works a lot better after adjustment.
ATLelbow
Well-Known Member
This lotus device seems to catch my eye. How does it compare in microdosing with the vapman. And are the clouds bigger ? Seems so. What is average load and can one use the concentration screen to make bowl area smaller ?
The Sherlock style seems cool and the overall design.
The Sherlock style seems cool and the overall design.
coolbreeze
Well-Known Member
You can do smaller loads and hits with it but the Vapman is probably the more natural tool for microdosing.
Yes, they can be for sure. Flavor's pretty nice too.
The bowl size is about 2 times a Vapman load or so.
It's a classic for sure. It's a lot like a Sticky Brick but the air/vaporpath is separate from the flame. It's pretty easy to use outdoors, too.
kokolokokolokon
Well-Known Member
My vapman doesn’t touch the walls of the station but I will try it multiples times until i get a good results. This have to work!
MrGreenspoon
Well-Known Member
My Vapman family got a new member 
With a walnut mouthpiece:
With a walnut mouthpiece:
coolbreeze
Well-Known Member
It's not obvious when it's touching; the wiggling is just what I find most noticeable when it's not seated fully. I messed with it for weeks trying to figure out what was happening. It seemed by the process of elimination that it had to be not seating completely but I couldn't tell how or why (I thought it was the pan's shape). Then the fellas announced that they'd figured it out and it was the wood of the lower hip shape lightly touching the sidewall and preventing a perfect seating. When I recentered the pole I got nearly perfect results (I have several so most fit perfectly while one or two outliers have to be seated in their 'best' position).
If you've gone through the process and still are not having good results I would suspect something else is not right. Do you have more than one Vapman to test against?
kokolokokolokon
Well-Known Member
I have 2 vapman. A 2.0 and an italian one (i know both are italian
). The last time I tried the old one I did get similar results.Im going to try to move the rod in a moment. Let’s see if im lucky! (And thank you all!
)
Dr. G
Vapman Collector*Vapman Beta Tester
You will be very lucky! I hope you fix the problem...and good luck! Cheers...I have 2 vapman. A 2.0 and an italian one (i know both are italian
Im going to try to move the rod in a moment. Let’s see if im lucky! (And thank you all!
warren0728
Well-Known Member
did a quick photo of my. vapmans ... not as big of a collection as some of you but i'm getting there lol!
top row: Vapman Pure (Kotibé, Fungi Special Edition, Italian), Vapman Pure (Olive, Custom Shop "Storm", Italian), Vapman Classic (Olive Wood, Italian)
bottom row:
Vapman Classic v2.0 (Zebrano), Vapman Classic OG (Walnut, Swiss), Vapman Pure v2.0 - (Limited Walnut & Gold Edition #11/100)
top row: Vapman Pure (Kotibé, Fungi Special Edition, Italian), Vapman Pure (Olive, Custom Shop "Storm", Italian), Vapman Classic (Olive Wood, Italian)
bottom row:
Vapman Classic v2.0 (Zebrano), Vapman Classic OG (Walnut, Swiss), Vapman Pure v2.0 - (Limited Walnut & Gold Edition #11/100)
