Discontinued VapeXhale Cloud EVO
- Thread starter stonemonkey55
- Start date
t-dub
Vapor Sloth
When I see chunky black abv like that I think wet medicine, hard draw, overheated enclosure. There is no need to "preheat" the EVO for flowers at a high temp setting. If I'm using EVO as a hand warmer with the dial all the way down, after I turn it up to 1:30 when the light turns green its go time. Its getting to the point that I can tell just by touching the top of the enclosure if the unit is going to be too hot for my taste. The vapor doesn't taste as good when the unit is heat saturated imho, I prefer to start from cold or "hand warmer" mode but even from a cold start its ready so quickly its just ceased to be an issue for me.Okay, I just avoided combustion at noon.
This was after the second (really short, slow) hit.
Last edited:
SD_haze
Well-Known Member
Is the time from [min temp]==>1:30 somewhere around 3 minutes or so?
(edit: on your unit, ofc)
t-dub
Vapor Sloth
Thats pretty close, I've never timed it. If I'm starting from cold I give it just a bit after the green light, judging using my hand on the top of the enclosure to "feel" where I like things. In hand warmer mode I can touch the Bamboo without discomfort. I had noticed that the first ELB was slightly wispy and the second better, but not if I was turning up from hand warmer mode. It might be 5 minutes from a cold start but like I said, its quick.
ogcook
Well-Known Member
Shame you guys are combusting, I've pushed herb as far as 3pm on later hits and haven't had a problem. I haven't tried to really get it to combust either, on the top end it seems capable. Guess I got lucky, sitting at noon my Evo can get a bowl nice and toasty brown, then bump it up to 1-3 to darken it a bit until flavor drops. Still have yet to get a black char look to my abv even at my 3pm rips until no more vapor is coming out. 
Fame Is A Vapor
EVOnaut
I've cleaned my EVO probably a dozen times, until I finally accepted that it just runs hotter than most. I use essentially the same method to clean as you do: I moisten a q-tip with an alcohol wipe and clean the inside and rim of the 18mm joint. I always wait until the bamboo has cooled from hot to warm. I have found it unnecessary to clean further than the top joint, the bamboo simply doesn't get dirty farther inside the unit. I do not invert my unit or use concentrates, however, so those that do may have a different experience than I. After wiping the EVO joint clean, I'll reconnect the EVO and let it stand at 12 until I'm confident that any remaning ISO residue has evaporated.
I've combusted on 12 at nearly every draw speed, with moist strains, dry strains, full ELBs to ELBs just 1/5 full. Some of us just seem to have hotter-than-normal units....
Dr. Plutonious
Well-Known Member
It's interesting that there seems to be so many combustion problems. I've ran my unit through a few pieces now and have used a bunch of strains and grinds. The only time I have gotten combustion is when the temp is at 2:30 or beyond.
I'm sorry to hear this from you guys. I keep mine at between 10:30 and 12:30 mostly and haven't had any combustion problems.
I'm sorry to hear this from you guys. I keep mine at between 10:30 and 12:30 mostly and haven't had any combustion problems.
Seek
Apprentice Daydreamer
I think I'm beginning to understand the theory of EVO combustion.
the EVO is still a Cloud, so it must share a lot of its characteristics, including the thermal equilibrium behaviour and times.
When you heat up from a cold start, or dial up, the vape will be in a state of underequilibrium when it goes green (most extreme if from a cold start).
When preheating on high temps and then turning the dial down, when it goes green, the vape will be in a state of overequilibrium (most extreme when going from max to min).
Both over/underequlibriums will mellow out into true equlibrium if the dial is left unchanged for few minutes, ideally 5 or so.
And what are these states and how they behave?
The true equilibrium is the perfect state of the vape, it should combust only depending on the dial here. So if we have a unit than combusts at 3pm, it will combust there everytime, but never combust under 3pm.
It should deliver huge Clouds - same at every draw speed.
The underequilibrium is a state when the rest of the bamboo (above and under the heater) still heats up. Especially the heating chambers that have gone much lower.
In this state you can dial high temps and not combust, but its a play with fire.
If you hit it SLOW you will combust.
If the session takes too long, it will reach true equlibrium and this dialed temp will start combusting even on harder pulls.
The overequlibrium is a state where you lowered the core temp, but the rest of the bamboo is still hotter. The heating chambers down there will be still very hot.
This can combust even if you have under-combustion temp dialed. Especially when hitting it HARD.
When hitting hard, you will be collecting a lot or excess heat that is stored in these chambers and not give it enough time to "cool down" in the heater part of bamboo.
My theory is based on my thinking that the precisely heated heating chambers in the OG Cloud are now lower in the EVO, acting as pre-heaters for hard pulls now and being more sensitive to under/overequlibrium.
Then when the air exits these chambers, it enters the brand new primary heater, which is just a long precisely heated hollow tube. This will heat up mostly slow pulls and also improve the precision of hard pulls, when the precision of these chambers got lowered.
This is only my theory of the EVO heat, I don't have one nor do I know how its shaped exactly. I've only used the knowledge from this thread to finish this theory.
My conclusions:
If you never want to combust, then never enter the concentrate range. I know it will give you a faster heat-up, but also a risk of combustion if you don't let it cool down enough.
If you want consistent experiences you have to give it some time after it goes green.
This is just how the bamboo equlibrium works, not even the fastest heater in the world could improve this.
Actually, faster heaters will make the over/underequlibrium more pronounced when they are in either of these states:
OG ticker: 8 mins heat up, 10 mins to equilibrium - it heats up so slowly that it brings the equlibrium with the heat up itself.
Non-tickers: 4 mins heat up, 8 mins to equlibrium - here the equlibrium get more significant, even when it gets faster to get there.
EVO: 2 mins heat up, 6 mins to equlibrium.
Unreal Cloud from hyperspace: 0 mins heat up, 5 mins to equlibrium.
EDIT:
Here is how I imagine this:
From left to right: underequilibrium (hot dial), true equlibrium (hot dial), overequilibrium (cold dial)
This is how I THINK the new bamboo is shaped now, if someone knows better, please correct me.
EDIT2: I think thew overequlibrium can't actually happen unless the heater is capable of cooling.
The bottom is actually naked, so it will cool down faster than the core and therefore the third image is bullshit.
the EVO is still a Cloud, so it must share a lot of its characteristics, including the thermal equilibrium behaviour and times.
When you heat up from a cold start, or dial up, the vape will be in a state of underequilibrium when it goes green (most extreme if from a cold start).
When preheating on high temps and then turning the dial down, when it goes green, the vape will be in a state of overequilibrium (most extreme when going from max to min).
Both over/underequlibriums will mellow out into true equlibrium if the dial is left unchanged for few minutes, ideally 5 or so.
And what are these states and how they behave?
The true equilibrium is the perfect state of the vape, it should combust only depending on the dial here. So if we have a unit than combusts at 3pm, it will combust there everytime, but never combust under 3pm.
It should deliver huge Clouds - same at every draw speed.
The underequilibrium is a state when the rest of the bamboo (above and under the heater) still heats up. Especially the heating chambers that have gone much lower.
In this state you can dial high temps and not combust, but its a play with fire.
If you hit it SLOW you will combust.
If the session takes too long, it will reach true equlibrium and this dialed temp will start combusting even on harder pulls.
The overequlibrium is a state where you lowered the core temp, but the rest of the bamboo is still hotter. The heating chambers down there will be still very hot.
This can combust even if you have under-combustion temp dialed. Especially when hitting it HARD.
When hitting hard, you will be collecting a lot or excess heat that is stored in these chambers and not give it enough time to "cool down" in the heater part of bamboo.
My theory is based on my thinking that the precisely heated heating chambers in the OG Cloud are now lower in the EVO, acting as pre-heaters for hard pulls now and being more sensitive to under/overequlibrium.
Then when the air exits these chambers, it enters the brand new primary heater, which is just a long precisely heated hollow tube. This will heat up mostly slow pulls and also improve the precision of hard pulls, when the precision of these chambers got lowered.
This is only my theory of the EVO heat, I don't have one nor do I know how its shaped exactly. I've only used the knowledge from this thread to finish this theory.
My conclusions:
If you never want to combust, then never enter the concentrate range. I know it will give you a faster heat-up, but also a risk of combustion if you don't let it cool down enough.
If you want consistent experiences you have to give it some time after it goes green.
This is just how the bamboo equlibrium works, not even the fastest heater in the world could improve this.
Actually, faster heaters will make the over/underequlibrium more pronounced when they are in either of these states:
OG ticker: 8 mins heat up, 10 mins to equilibrium - it heats up so slowly that it brings the equlibrium with the heat up itself.
Non-tickers: 4 mins heat up, 8 mins to equlibrium - here the equlibrium get more significant, even when it gets faster to get there.
EVO: 2 mins heat up, 6 mins to equlibrium.
Unreal Cloud from hyperspace: 0 mins heat up, 5 mins to equlibrium.
EDIT:
Here is how I imagine this:
From left to right: underequilibrium (hot dial), true equlibrium (hot dial), overequilibrium (cold dial)
This is how I THINK the new bamboo is shaped now, if someone knows better, please correct me.
EDIT2: I think thew overequlibrium can't actually happen unless the heater is capable of cooling.
The bottom is actually naked, so it will cool down faster than the core and therefore the third image is bullshit.
Last edited:
PhotoRider
Diagnosed with level 11 G.A.S.
I need to go on record here. I HATE, yes hate Bob loblaw and Zanango Cruel now. Seriously. Bob loaned me his Evo for my birthday and ZC left his cloud last night for me. Mother Focker, shit, now I must give up dabbing after using these puppies. Dabbing does not keep up now, simply lost the need for it really.
What the hell to do with these 170 vapor rigs now. This is horrible. Man this sucks, should have saved the glass budget for a fleet of evo's and host a vapor bar like a real bar. I would be rich....
And no, I am not gifting my rigs away, I would need to hurt Bob/ZC then and that's not going to happen!
What the hell to do with these 170 vapor rigs now. This is horrible. Man this sucks, should have saved the glass budget for a fleet of evo's and host a vapor bar like a real bar. I would be rich....
And no, I am not gifting my rigs away, I would need to hurt Bob/ZC then and that's not going to happen!
PhotoRider
Diagnosed with level 11 G.A.S.
Oh, I have them already. Kind of hard to use the EVO on a 3” pendant recycler, but I am willing to try
PhotoRider
Diagnosed with level 11 G.A.S.
you bet ya!
ogcook
Well-Known Member
Read the thread.
It's rolling out to IGG Contributors now, then preorders.
If yours still works you might wait depending how much spare cash you have.
You can 2-cap oil, or they're working on something.
We typically test for min/mid/max levels but we have noticed a few units where for whatever reason, the temp range isn't linear through the entire dial and gets compressed like @Fame Is A Vapor unit. I'm at our engineer's place today to figure out what is causing these strange inconsistencies in the middle of the dial. Could be just a few numbers that need to be tweaked in the algorithm but it is a bit perplexing as it appears to be only affect a small population of units. Will report back after a kale shake or two.
JoeKickass
Well-Known Member
John Lewus
Well-Known Member
Can I suggest field upgradeable units for the firmware for the future?
wifi? android app? or maybe bluetooth?
grokit
well-worn member
A mini usb port might be best, then you could plug in a wifi adapter if you want.
oldiebutgoodie
Apostle, Church of Vaporization
Re-writing firmware using a wireless connection can be risky, it's preferable if possible to use a wired connection because if the updating is disrupted in any way the firmware device can be borked and then you're SOL. Some boards use a second device to store the code as a backup in the event of failure. My thought would be an app that runs on a computer and/or phone that downloads, installs, and if necessary recovers, the Cloud firmware via a mini-USB connection.
PhotoRider
Diagnosed with level 11 G.A.S.
lol, no way do they update firmware via wifi. never. must be direct connected.
I know there is a large difference between Bob's unit and ZC's unit. I can run bob's at 3 o'clock all day with herb, you go past 2 with ZC's it combusts the herb. boy was that a horrible experience... I think the max value is similar though so its non linear like you say.
Its no big deal for me unless I swap units back and forth. Just learn where to put it and bingo. nothing is that touchy...
I know there is a large difference between Bob's unit and ZC's unit. I can run bob's at 3 o'clock all day with herb, you go past 2 with ZC's it combusts the herb. boy was that a horrible experience... I think the max value is similar though so its non linear like you say.
Its no big deal for me unless I swap units back and forth. Just learn where to put it and bingo. nothing is that touchy...
JoeKickass
Well-Known Member
Or what about direct optical laser communication? So when you want to upgrade you just hold it above your head and bleeding edge software comes streaming through your window straight from VXH headquarters!
I wrote another blog detailing a Northern California Mayor in support of legalization - would love to hear your feedback.
http://www.vapexhale.com/blogs/stonemonkey-blog/10897453-mayor-of-sebastopol-supports-legalization
http://www.vapexhale.com/blogs/stonemonkey-blog/10897453-mayor-of-sebastopol-supports-legalization