oldiebutgoodie
Apostle, Church of Vaporization
My wife (and I) are French going back before the Revolution.
She drinks Boodles.
And yea, them's was the daze.
Discontinued VapeXhale Cloud EVO
- Thread starter stonemonkey55
- Start date
My wife (and I) are French going back before the Revolution.
She drinks Boodles.
And yea, them's was the daze.
CANtalk
Well-Known Member
I look forward to seeing feedback from others. Here's my take from lots of reading and research. The bigger hydratubes will condition more (and how much more depends on the choice). If a person wants more water conditioning and/or often uses water pieces, the bigger precision and biggest classic hydratube offerings will deliver. A choice depends on personal preferences; there is no best one to get. The more conditioning in a water piece the easier it is to produce big clouds and get big hits. Maybe you want that, but flavor is lost with more conditioning as well; it's a trade off.
Other considerations include the price, the size/bulk/awkwardness, the balance, etc.
One can also get some adapters for the EVO and use an existing water piece, often at a significantly lower price. I haven't been around here long enough to see the earlier mentioned DHgate dislike, but lots of options there. Here's a traditional water piece I really like, fab egg style. https://www.dhgate.com/store/product/ccg-2016-new-arrival-glass-water-pipes-glass/376451832.html
Since you come from a dry vape history and enjoy it, a bigger hyrdatube will simply condition more allowing for bigger clouds and hits with less flavor. How much more conditioning depends on what hydratube you want and choose. The variety from different vapor conditioning with different units is nice (and good), but it also comes at added cost and less balance (with the bigger units). How much those differences matter to you is a personal decision. Some people want more variety and buy more hydratubes, others want more variety and buy different vapes. Some people don't need much variety and don't do either, others do both. YMMV.
I went with a middle-ground conditioning hydratube in the line-up for my first unit (with two dry mouth setups). I also come from a dry vape history and thought a middle-ground unit was the best water piece for me to start with. YMMV. In the future if I want more water pieces I can consider the Precision Turbine or Calyx (for less conditioning and more flavor) or the Classic Swiss Tree or Swiss honeycomb for more conditioning and less flavor (bigger clouds and hits). Some have both, and more
.Cheers to choice and options. Hope this helps. Good luck and happy holidays.
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Mikey
Well-Known Member
Thank you! I did buy the whip hose when I bought my evo for DH glass. But now the hydro tubes are so fun to use!I look forward to seeing feedback from others. Here's my take from lots of reading and research. The bigger hydratubes will condition more (and how much more depends on the choice). If a person wants more water conditioning and/or often uses water pieces, the bigger precision and biggest classic hydratube offerings will deliver. A choice depends on personal preferences; there is no best one to get. The more conditioning in a water piece the easier it is to produce big clouds and get big hits. Maybe you want that, but flavor is lost with more conditioning as well; it's a trade off.
Other considerations include the price, the size/bulk/awkwardness, the balance, etc.
One can also get some adapters for the EVO and use an existing water piece, often at a significantly lower price. I haven't been around here long enough to see the earlier mentioned DHgate dislike, but lots of options there. Here's a traditional water piece I really like, fab egg style. https://www.dhgate.com/store/product/ccg-2016-new-arrival-glass-water-pipes-glass/376451832.html
Since you come from a dry vape history and enjoy it, a bigger hyrdatube will simply condition more allowing for bigger clouds and hits with less flavor. How much more conditioning depends on what hydratube you want and choose. The variety from different vapor conditioning with different units is nice (and good), but it also comes at added cost and less balance (with the bigger units). How much those differences matter to you is a personal decision. Some people want more variety and buy more hydratubes, others want more variety and buy different vapes. Some people don't need much variety and don't do either, others do both. YMMV.
I went with a middle-ground conditioning hydratube in the line-up for my first unit (with two dry mouth setups). I also come from a dry vape history and thought a middle-ground unit was the best water piece for me to start with. YMMV. In the future if I want more water pieces I can consider the Precision Turbine or Calyx (for less conditioning and more flavor) or the Classic Swiss Tree or Swiss honeycomb for more conditioning and less flavor (bigger clouds and hits). Some have both, and more
Cheers to choice and options. Hope this helps. Good luck and happy holidays.
oldiebutgoodie
Apostle, Church of Vaporization
I used whip vapes with water pieces for several years before the Cloud OG. Aside from the cleanliness hassle with the tubing (even with food-grade silicone), I can tell a distinct difference compared to an all-glass path. I won't let a whip anywhere near my Clouds, especially the lighter EVO which can tip over. I'm not a flavor chaser (with age one's sense of taste dulls a bit so for me it's pointless anyway). For me, again possibly due to age, the priority is the action of the piece - I want maximum smoothness and moisturizing along with a moderate size can, and don't want any drag or chug. The HT's that vapexhale used to offer are the best for that, but those pieces were definitely higher-end (Evolver, Swagger, etc.) and hence expensive. Most of the early Cloud owners were coming from big hitting vapes, many with very expensive glass. For a while Seibo was offering some pretty exotic stuff like recirculators. Those pieces cost as much as the Cloud itself. But finally he settled into the sidecars which offer an affordable more broadly appealing experience, analogous to the EVO being more mainstream than the monster OG. I've decided to stay away from the dhgate knock-off HT's; the cans are even smaller than VXL's apparently and I just don't like glass with weak seams or worse yet, ill fitting gong joints - you definitely don't want any wobbling atop the EVO joint. Glass is indeed very subjective.
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Baron23
Well-Known Member
This is only my opinion and nothing more. But I really do think that the change from OG to Precision HT's was more to do with supply and cost than performance.
The choice seems pretty easy these days, though, as VXH doesn't offer the OG HT's anymore.
To me, the difference in performance and perception has more to do with the type of perc that's in it. I run an OG Turbine as I don't want a lot of diffusion of my flower vapor.
I also have a Calyx which, to my mind, is a sipper compared to the full size HT's.
I still love my EVO and HT's and use them often.
You should be covered under warranty and it should be made good for you. It definitely seems like its malfunctioning.
Have you contacted VXH customer support to see what they say about your issue?
https://www.xhl3.com/pages/contact
The choice seems pretty easy these days, though, as VXH doesn't offer the OG HT's anymore.
To me, the difference in performance and perception has more to do with the type of perc that's in it. I run an OG Turbine as I don't want a lot of diffusion of my flower vapor.
I also have a Calyx which, to my mind, is a sipper compared to the full size HT's.
I still love my EVO and HT's and use them often.
Sorry, but I'm not really sure what you are saying are your symptoms but I have not heard anything like this before.Hi, at first Happy Christmas, and sorry for my english!
Please help, we had some issues with our new EVO (christmas and birthday present, so I'm a little bit fucked up now, thank God I'm also have a Mighty, Nonavong XLS and a 2018 M Shadow Dynavap).
Its a 230V unit from UK, its about 3 days old, 3 hours of use. For first its working good for the first standby on-off, and after that its acting silly. After first standby I had to unplug at all and leave it for 30 min to rest before use it again, if I just switch off-on they just flashing leds, after a little time flashing no leds or just the red and heating like I'm want to combust...the bamboo glowing red.
I asked for warranty and the shop tell me if I can, try it with a UPS, now I'm using with a APC Easy UPS BV500I-GR A. Same happened with UPS, 1h 07m before the first standby, for the 1st hour working good and after that again only working If I'm completely plug off and wait for a couple of minutes.
If I'm just switch off-on always heating regardless of the temp settings, after a couple on-off switch just the green led blinking and wont heat up all. I made 2 videos, both of them filmed after each other (same session of heating),
I think its not a normal working especially if its glowing 2 times the bamboo in 4 hours of use. I think I'm sending back the unit after christmas (for today closed everything). What are my chances for getting a good working unit, or all of the EVO-s had these issues, the seller says maybe its a rare electrical issue? (not enough rare
Hope I'm getting a perfect working EVO soon!
Girls and guys thanks for your help, have a nice christmas with your family!
Videos:
https://streamable.com/q48uv
https://streamable.com/8xd8l
You should be covered under warranty and it should be made good for you. It definitely seems like its malfunctioning.
Have you contacted VXH customer support to see what they say about your issue?
https://www.xhl3.com/pages/contact
I remember lots of reports like this on the first batches of 230V EVOs. Glowing bamboos. If I recall correctly, the manufacturer warned about the fire hazard this issue posed and immediately stopped shipping them until they redesigned the units. I wonder if this is one of the older ones that got stuck on the shelf for awhile. Regardless, you should definitely return it for a new, fully working unit. Good luck!
Best,
jimdee
CANtalk
Well-Known Member
Lots of activity here since this post. It's nice to see the activity.
I received my EVO order today. Did my first use and sessions. Impressive. Went/Going places. Will give more info when I'm able to...
415vapor
Active Member
@Krzydmnd I'm a newb to the evo as well and find it wonderful. Was going to put together a compiled list of tips and tricks since 700+ pages is way too much work and search doesn't seem to help much either....
I too wanted to know temps and stuck a probe down there. Well this turned out to be inaccurate because it's stagnant air. Really you need to measure the temp as you draw and at the basket. You also need to draw the exact same every time. So for this reason I gave up and I don't have the wire type probes anyway. I'm sure someone in this thread already did a graph and such, but it's still highly variable depending on the user. FWIW I set the dial at 9 and the air was continuing to climb past 450F. I stopped because I knew this wasn't right. So I think you just need to experiment. Right now for light use I like 9 and then for heavy its 12+ and I combust/char around 2:45 or so. I think that's all I need to know. ;-)
I too wanted to know temps and stuck a probe down there. Well this turned out to be inaccurate because it's stagnant air. Really you need to measure the temp as you draw and at the basket. You also need to draw the exact same every time. So for this reason I gave up and I don't have the wire type probes anyway. I'm sure someone in this thread already did a graph and such, but it's still highly variable depending on the user. FWIW I set the dial at 9 and the air was continuing to climb past 450F. I stopped because I knew this wasn't right. So I think you just need to experiment. Right now for light use I like 9 and then for heavy its 12+ and I combust/char around 2:45 or so. I think that's all I need to know. ;-)
I've used probes for temp charting several vaporizers, but haven't yet (I don't think) for the Evo. I'll try to get a chart done shortly, maybe this weekend.
If you dropped a probe down into the bamboo, you're getting the temp closer to the heater and we don't really care about that since it's not where the action is taking place. We really want to know the temp directly at the herb chamber so that's what I will attempt to chart.
This will only be somewhat useful in that it will tell us what temp my Evo is at at different spots on the dial (your Evo is likely different). I've found that the temp varies between different units I've tried so it may not be useful exact temp data for the reader, but it's always fun to check out the temp slopes of different models.
415vapor
Active Member
@Stu I was thinking about tagging you because I saw you charted the G43 recently (and that was some cool data!), but then decided not to lolololol. You're absolutely correct about me dropping a probe down at the heater. My reasoning was that this would get me the heater temp and not necessarily add the air flow rate as another variable. Thus possibly more useful to other evo users despite the variability in heaters across units. Just a reference point if you will. I was expecting results like you see on enail controllers - was expecting to see 700, 800, or 900F at the heater. Amazing when you add cool air the mix results in 300-400F hitting the herb.
I started with the solid probe up at the male joint and on 9 was getting somewhere around 190F but then realized I needed airflow to get the temps up and more accurate. This was impossible for me with my equipment.
To add to your temp variation comment the temps you graph out are also specific to your draw rate. Then there is the variable of draw resistance that different brands incorporate! I agree its fun/interesting data, but def difficult to replicate! I used to be a stickler (I probably still am!) for digital temp control and all the tech but later realized you really need a lot more sensors to be at all accurate. I suppose you could say this is a pro of bag vapes- digital temp with consistent airflow = replicable results.
I started with the solid probe up at the male joint and on 9 was getting somewhere around 190F but then realized I needed airflow to get the temps up and more accurate. This was impossible for me with my equipment.
To add to your temp variation comment the temps you graph out are also specific to your draw rate. Then there is the variable of draw resistance that different brands incorporate! I agree its fun/interesting data, but def difficult to replicate! I used to be a stickler (I probably still am!) for digital temp control and all the tech but later realized you really need a lot more sensors to be at all accurate. I suppose you could say this is a pro of bag vapes- digital temp with consistent airflow = replicable results.
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CANtalk
Well-Known Member
Well, I'm finally reporting back on my first use and session with the EVO. Shipping went smoothly. The EVO unit is a lot lower weight than I anticipated. The graphite Helio mouthpiece is a lot smaller too (the water piece I chose will ship in a few weeks). After reading up and examining all materials I went with my first use.I received my EVO order today. Did my first use and sessions. Impressive. Went/Going places. Will give more info when I'm able to...
I loaded the ELB with a little more flower than I normally do with the Crafty vape, probably somewhere around 0.4 g. I preheated the unit at the 12 o'clock position on the temperature dial and and proceeded with the first session. This was after a few days off and I went with my #1 fave strain, a very strong sativa. The first draw was deep but it felt light in the vapor, lots of flavor though (which is great). So I ended up treating the EVO like I would my portable Crafty vape with a similar number and volume of draws (doing this is actually a good comparison, though it isn't very conservative). And it turned out the EVO delivers
. The experience was great and the draws very smooth. It was about the third and fourth draws from an ELB that produced the most significant and visible vapor. It was a great session and I checked the flower later; it had a nice light and even toast. I stirred up the flower and finished the bowl in another session a few hrs later at the 2 o'clock position on the temperature dial. The temp bump session definitely delivers a good amount more, though in my experience the first session with flower is always the best session.My flower was very dry and I think this affects the vapor production. Thankfully I'm already addressing this; I've picked up some mason jars and boveda packs and my flower was moved over yesterday into that as well.
A friend visited later in the evening and we had a few more sessions. The EVO delivered better and more than I've experience any time previously with any unit. It was excellent.
My EVO definitely whistles, and at lower draw speeds than I was expecting. I found if I slow down my draw to below the whistle threshold it's a slow draw, but that slow draw is very effective; I can take long deep draws without coughing (I do have to be careful with much visible vapor though, haha). The draw resistance is very low, notably less than any portable I've tried. Awesome, especially at higher dosing.
It was a great evening into the wee hours. Holiday time is a great time to get a new vape
. And the EVO is excellent. Highly recommended. I haven't tried concentrates yet, but I'm prepared having already picked up some Super lemon haze live resin for the EVO . And with all that success and the new EVO I placed an order for some more product last night. I picked up some two more premium flowers (one a reload) and Armageddon and Nuken strains concentrates. The future looks bright. Cheers.Thanks for all the great information and resources here. It's been very helpful and I'm now a confirmed convert to desktop vapes. My crafty vape will finally be put aside for only portable use and the EVO for home use. For anyone thinking about and EVO or desktop vape I highly recommend it. It's a big step up from portables.
TL;DR
My new EVO and first desktop vape is great and it took me new places last night
. It got put through some paces and came out like a champ. Thx for all the help.
Awesome feedback!
I went from a Crafty to the Evo and I save sooo much material it's really surprising!!
Also, anecdotally, my whistling stopped after the bamboo got conditioned . Took about 20 sessions but I don't use the cotton plug and my dog will tell you that there is no longer a whistle regardless of how hard I draw
I went from a Crafty to the Evo and I save sooo much material it's really surprising!!
Also, anecdotally, my whistling stopped after the bamboo got conditioned . Took about 20 sessions but I don't use the cotton plug and my dog will tell you that there is no longer a whistle regardless of how hard I draw
oldiebutgoodie
Apostle, Church of Vaporization
I posted a set of temp readings taken with an infrared for the Cloud OG and IIRC (like @Stu, I'm getting forgetful) the EVO, too. That was the earliest days, you can probably find those posts in the first 50 pages or so of each thread. My readings showed how much variation there is from the gong joint down to the top orifice. When the OG came out digital control was still all the rage. There is a chart on FC which shows which cannabinoids vaporize (i.e., boil) at what temp. Lots of debate at the time, lot of hits against the Cloud(s) using old-fashioned analog.
Bunk. If you look at the design of the Arizer Extreme-Q - used as an example of what VXL "failed" to do - it is evident from the sensor placement and actual infrared readings in the bowl that what is set on the dial is at best a very broad approximation. With the Cloud/EVO what matters is the heat inside the ELB. That is what the material comes into contact with. And it is different than the areas above/below/outside of the ELB. Actually, as Seibo explained it to me, the ELB becomes pressurized with the draw inducing air turbulence and heat distribution. This of course affects the physics (and is one reason it vapes so efficiently, btw). What the actual temp will be is, again, at best a broad approximation, as are the reference temps stenciled onto the heat shield. And as mentioned, factors such as the force of the draw or whether the unit has built up heat, or size of load, all have an effect. (This is true of the Extreme-Q's bowl turbulence too, demonstrating how silly it is to be religious about its digital setting.)
The bottom line: Find the setting that works best for you. Obviously, lower than creating char let alone combustion. But below that, and especially considering that the vapor is conditioned to some extent before it reaches one's lips, it's a matter of one's own preferred experience. On the hotter side with a sharp or long draw, huge clouds. On the cooler side, effortless comfort but a couple more draws for maximum extraction. It usually takes only a few sessions to dial in one's preference. Fwiw, I use @stickstones technique of turning the unit on at 3 and, when green, dialing back to ~12 or 1; it will be green again quickly and fully ready to hit.
This is very much a case of YMMV and it certainly does for every user. Find your preference and enjoy. And don't overthink it.
And a side note on the recent HT discussion: I just learned from VXL that there is "no plan to bring back Classic HT's." So, the Precision line is all there is gonna be. I suspect that the EVO has been cash-cow'ed, with focus and investment having shifted into the Stone development and launch. Seibo is betting on the pod market in legal states.
Bunk. If you look at the design of the Arizer Extreme-Q - used as an example of what VXL "failed" to do - it is evident from the sensor placement and actual infrared readings in the bowl that what is set on the dial is at best a very broad approximation. With the Cloud/EVO what matters is the heat inside the ELB. That is what the material comes into contact with. And it is different than the areas above/below/outside of the ELB. Actually, as Seibo explained it to me, the ELB becomes pressurized with the draw inducing air turbulence and heat distribution. This of course affects the physics (and is one reason it vapes so efficiently, btw). What the actual temp will be is, again, at best a broad approximation, as are the reference temps stenciled onto the heat shield. And as mentioned, factors such as the force of the draw or whether the unit has built up heat, or size of load, all have an effect. (This is true of the Extreme-Q's bowl turbulence too, demonstrating how silly it is to be religious about its digital setting.)
The bottom line: Find the setting that works best for you. Obviously, lower than creating char let alone combustion. But below that, and especially considering that the vapor is conditioned to some extent before it reaches one's lips, it's a matter of one's own preferred experience. On the hotter side with a sharp or long draw, huge clouds. On the cooler side, effortless comfort but a couple more draws for maximum extraction. It usually takes only a few sessions to dial in one's preference. Fwiw, I use @stickstones technique of turning the unit on at 3 and, when green, dialing back to ~12 or 1; it will be green again quickly and fully ready to hit.
This is very much a case of YMMV and it certainly does for every user. Find your preference and enjoy. And don't overthink it.
And a side note on the recent HT discussion: I just learned from VXL that there is "no plan to bring back Classic HT's." So, the Precision line is all there is gonna be. I suspect that the EVO has been cash-cow'ed, with focus and investment having shifted into the Stone development and launch. Seibo is betting on the pod market in legal states.
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CANtalk
Well-Known Member
I'm wondering what people recommend here. I typically take some draws in a session with a small break in between. Do you pull out the herb basket? And how long do you let the herb basket sit in the EVO unused before you pull it out?
I've noticed the led indicator has gone green early in the heat up process for a bit, and then it goes back to red as it finished heating up. Any feedback?
Thx
I've noticed the led indicator has gone green early in the heat up process for a bit, and then it goes back to red as it finished heating up. Any feedback?
Thx
newVaper420
Vapor Enthusiast
Yes, pull out herb basket. Otherwise radiant heat will definite remove some flavor and even potency.
Green, then it passes it, goes red, and then goes back to green once at equilibrium. It’s normal :-)
CANtalk
Well-Known Member
Thx for the feedback on the herb basket. I think your talking about what happens right at power on. Mine does that, but it also 30-50% of the time gives a green light for a little bit about 1/3 to 1/2 of the way into heat up. I've been able to pick the EVO up and manipulate it while the unit exhibits this behavior without any change either. I tried and replicated it again when writing this response. May be getting a higher % of that happening now.
Have you tried to reset the software? To do so, set the dial to noon, and turn the unit on and off 5 times quickly (maybe 3, can't recall). There will be no visible feedback that anything changed, but perhaps the issue you're describing will go away?
Give it a try and let us know how it goes. Good luck.
Best,
jimdee
ataxian
PALE BLUE DOT
I am a newbie however the EVO is one I look forward to using.
Go to HARBOR FREIGHT and get a cheap CENTRAL laser one?
Temperature is only a measure of heat obtained.
I use 1:00 4 COLAS
11:30 4 ROSIN
Your not baking?
Maybe U R?
It’s all good!
Sorry 2 comment?
chlorophyll_man
AVB Inspector
Hiya, yeah the led goes green after about 3 minutes of warm-up then goes red again for another minute or so before turning green again. That's normal for mine and it works fine. I'm sure it's just the heat sinking in as @newVaper420 says.
EDIT: I wait for the "second" green light before putting the elb in and inhaling. Better vapour on the first draw like this.
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