Discontinued VapeXhale Cloud EVO

Seek

Apprentice Daydreamer
...a mode to allow the user to specify a starting and stopping temperature (very minor digital programming), along with the ability to set the exact amount of hits the user desires. The unit would simply calculate this...
I don't think that is remotely as simple as you think it would. There are too many variables affecting the extraction to make calculating increments like this "simple". For example every user draw with different speeds (this is less of a variable on the EVO thanother vapes, but still makes a difference), and especially every user pulls a very different volume per hit. Some people can pull 10 times more vapor per hit than others, or even more.
The herb also makes it very unpredictable, every strain extract differently and moisture content also makes a big impact. Too many variables - is it really that hard to increment the temp yourself? It never bothered me.
VERY IMPORTANT - CARB HOLE FOR LOWER/DRY HYDRA CHAMBER WITH INCLUDED RUBBER PLUGS SO THE USER DOES NOT EVER HAVE TO REMOVE THE GLASS IN A SESSION TO CLEAR THE HYDRA: Have your glass guys just make a simple hole in the bottom/dry vapor chamber so the HydraTubes can be carbed.
No, I actaully think this would be a bad and DANGEROUS idea.
1) This would encourage leaving the hydratube on and it sound like you think thats a good thing. NO! Leaving your EVO connected is asking for trouble, my EVO died exactly because of this. A gym ball started moving on its own and knocked my EVO with a hydratube on when I just went to a computer for a sec leaving it there. And it cost meabout 150$ and several weeks of waiting for a repair. DON'T LEAVE THE EVO CONNECTED TO YOUR GLASS EVER!
2) A carb hole in the bottom chamber would totally defaet the entire purpose of that chamber. That chamber is supposed to save your EVO when the water goes down by trapping it there. If there's a hole, then any water in there could leak into your EVO and destroy it.
3) If you want a carb hole, just get an Y adapter. And I would really call lifting the tube for clearing it exhausting effort needing a solution like this.Just lift a tube a centimeter and then back, that's not so hard or complicated. It's almost on par with the carb-hole. If you are about to take another hit right away, you don't have to remove the tube and sit it aside. Just lift up and down and it's cleared and you take another hit.

Another option - you don't have to clear the tube, if you're about to take another hit. Yes, it could make a little blowback of vapor into the EVO (so more cleaning), but nothing super serious.

Also, the EVO doesn't need stirring, maybe only a little if you overload the ELB, but smaller loads work better and also self-stir themselves as you pull.
 

Vapor Trails

Well-Known Member
1) This would encourage leaving the hydratube on and it sound like you think thats a good thing. NO! Leaving your EVO connected is asking for trouble, my EVO died exactly because of this. A gym ball started moving on its own and knocked my EVO with a hydratube on when I just went to a computer for a sec leaving it there. And it cost meabout 150$ and several weeks of waiting for a repair. DON'T LEAVE THE EVO CONNECTED TO YOUR GLASS EVER!
2) A carb hole in the bottom chamber would totally defaet the entire purpose of that chamber. That chamber is supposed to save your EVO when the water goes down by trapping it there. If there's a hole, then any water in there could leak into your EVO and destroy it.
3) If you want a carb hole, just get an Y adapter. And I would really call lifting the tube for clearing it exhausting effort needing a solution like this.Just lift a tube a centimeter and then back, that's not so hard or complicated. It's almost on par with the carb-hole. If you are about to take another hit right away, you don't have to remove the tube and sit it aside. Just lift up and down and it's cleared and you take another hit.

1. Only while in the session using it would someone ever keep the the 2 together. I said I always remove my Hydratube and seperate the 2 when not in hand.
2. The slits in the bottom chamber are much lower than the carb would be, BUT with a carb hole even lower in the bottom chamber...that would actually make it pour off to the side instead of thru the bottom slits and directly onto the device if it were to overflow to the lower with a drain/carb hole on the side, and serve as a drain for the bottom chamber. A carb hole in the dry chamber would have no effect on water going from the upper to the lower chamber. The bottom chamber could fill above the slits with no hole and leak into the device.
3. No need for a Y-adapter with the carb in the bottom chamber (1/2"-3/4" above the bottom slits). I'll be honest, with glass on glass, I wouldn't want to extend it anymore with any adapters making a larger gap with glass. If you have a small wrench, compared to a longer one the small one can be multiple times harder to turn, and that slight increase in length on the longer wrench can give a leverage to tear a bolt in half. In other words, after extending the device and it's connections past their intended purpose of use, small, light movements can make a very big "Uh-Oh".

As far as saying it does not need stirring, you should try. Even if it looks thoroughly scorched when finished, I take my tool after my last draw and knock the herb back down in the herb basket, crush it a bit with the tool with herb still in the basket (of course), place the lid on the herb basket and get another full draw. So, just one stir to get the most out of your herbs, the same as reclaiming would. Its simply an instant reclaim rather than dumping it for later.
 
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Vapor Trails,
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Seek

Apprentice Daydreamer
I believe you know what you are doing and would use such a setup carefully. And that the carb hole could be designed safer than I described. But to make a HT like that official, that would encourage everyone to leave the HT on, and not everyone would be as careful as you. I just think it's a dangerous idea just for this single reason. And the Y adapter is as bad as you think, a double perc HT makes much more of this levering force that a bubbler with an Y adapter.
I think the best idea would be to have a carb-holed HT custom-made. That wouldn't encourage noobs to be reckless with the EVO as much as an official tube with a carb-hole.
 

milkmann

Well-Known Member
Hi all, I've just got a cloud evo and have been using it a few times today, it is second hand though. I have given everything a good clean in iso etc, but just cannot seem to get these milky hits. I'm heating the unit up for 15 minutes on 3 o clock, turning it to 1, waiting a few mins, doing a 30-second ish inhale, starting slow and getting faster, and am not really getting anything that solid. Any suggestions? Cheers!
 
milkmann,
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Pyr0

Stoned Roses
Hi all, I've just got a cloud evo and have been using it a few times today, it is second hand though. I have given everything a good clean in iso etc, but just cannot seem to get these milky hits. I'm heating the unit up for 15 minutes on 3 o clock, turning it to 1, waiting a few mins, doing a 30-second ish inhale, starting slow and getting faster, and am not really getting anything that solid. Any suggestions? Cheers!
The main thing is the quality of your herbs. I've had some give quick milky clouds, but others not so much.
Can you post any pics? is it covered in tricomes?
How fine is your grind?
I find more surface area means quicker and denser clouds
Have you tried preheating for longer?
Is the top of the unit really hot?
 

ataxian

PALE BLUE DOT
I was curious, what is that part from Epic that almost looks like a little light bulb in this picture?
I love my EVO
I love my NANO
I love my SOLO
I love my "Q"
I love my SSV
I love my DA BUDDHA
I love my LSV
I love my VAP 2
I love my LOTUS
I love my HEAT WAND
I love my FIRE FLY
I love W9 TECH STUFF

I might have more somewhere?

CIVILIZED

@milkmann HERB QUALITY? SHATTER every time I get rich thick clouds.
Blue vapor will work. Dry your flowers if you cloud chase?

I like FLAVOR and EFFECT, However FLAVOR is where I start! (if it tastes amazing the effect will follow)
 
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kellya86

Herb gardener...
After having some trouble with nemastavapes, regarding a solo warranty issue, they gave 35 quid to spend to say sorry. So I thought I'd get some spare elb's....

These were 19 quid. And that was a reduced price...

It clearly stated on the site that they only use official vapexhale parts direct from the manufacturer...

So why do they look completely different to the ones I got with my evo a week ago.???

Much poorer quality....

Not to mention squashed....

2zitcADh.jpg


Actually looks like the welds are corroding around the edges when looking close. Is this even safe...

It goes without saying that I won't be using these....

I will be speaking to the owner of nemastavapes soon.... I'm not happy....

Also on their site it says that they have stopped selling the evo....this is their reason.....

"PLEASE NOTE: Due to an increase in warranty claims, NamasteVapes will not be carrying the VapeXhale Cloud Evo. We recommend customers try out the Vapir Rise or Arizer Extreme Q vaporizers. These models have proven more reliable with superior vapor production."

Superior vapour production from an eq....
What sort of company is this...
 

Pyr0

Stoned Roses
I got the feeling Namastevape weren't held in the highest regard here when i mentioned them in another thread. :shrug:

I don't think they are authorized to sell the EVO

When I received a squashed ELB from @VapeFiend.com, they replaced it without issue

Most of my ELBs are browning on the welds though, apparently it's normal to see some charring
 

justvapin

Enthusiastic Cannabis Consumer
Dude, WTF? Those came like that? Did you stomp on the package before you opened it? Sheesh.

Seriously, did the package look damaged, or were those fucked up elb's in a package that was NOT damaged? One of them looks fine----was it part of the same shipment? That's crazy!
 
justvapin,
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Justpassedu

Well-Known Member
After having some trouble with nemastavapes, regarding a solo warranty issue, they gave 35 quid to spend to say sorry. So I thought I'd get some spare elb's....

These were 19 quid. And that was a reduced price...

It clearly stated on the site that they only use official vapexhale parts direct from the manufacturer...

So why do they look completely different to the ones I got with my evo a week ago.???

Much poorer quality....

Not to mention squashed....

2zitcADh.jpg


Actually looks like the welds are corroding around the edges when looking close. Is this even safe...

It goes without saying that I won't be using these....

I will be speaking to the owner of nemastavapes soon.... I'm not happy....

Also on their site it says that they have stopped selling the evo....this is their reason.....

"PLEASE NOTE: Due to an increase in warranty claims, NamasteVapes will not be carrying the VapeXhale Cloud Evo. We recommend customers try out the Vapir Rise or Arizer Extreme Q vaporizers. These models have proven more reliable with superior vapor production."

Superior vapour production from an eq....
What sort of company is this...

Those actually look like my old elbs i got a long time ago with the Evo. They have been my favorites , the new ones i recently got direct from vapexhale look a little different and the welds are not as pronounced. They also don't fit perfect and are very loose in my bamboo compared to my older one's. That really sucks they came squashed like that. I would def complain as that is not acceptable , you can use them and prob bend them back into shape but you should still get 4 new ones free of charge.
 

kellya86

Herb gardener...
Right so at some point vapexhale changed the design, or supplier, of the elb's ?

And I've just got old/flat stock..

The package was only a doubled over piece of card, taped... Nothing structural....

The ss mesh on the new is definitely heavier. You can see through the old ones much easier...
This must alter air flow and the dynamics of the machine...???

Edit :- just tried to insert one of the elb's into the evo, and it's fucking tight, like way to tight. I got it half in an decided not to force it.

The ones I got with my evo are a perfect fit. Not tight, not loose. Just right.
 
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kellya86,
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Justpassedu

Well-Known Member
Right so at some point vapexhale changed the design, or supplier, of the elb's ?

And I've just got old/flat stock..

The package was only a doubled over piece of card, taped... Nothing structural....

The ss mesh on the new is definitely heavier. You can see through the old ones much easier...
This must alter air flow and the dynamics of the machine...???

Edit :- just tried to insert one of the elb's into the evo, and it's fucking tight, like way to tight. I got it half in an decided not to force it.

The ones I got with my evo are a perfect fit. Not tight, not loose. Just right.
I think they changed suppliers/maker's of there Elbs. I happen to like the Og elb's better. They seem thicker but i see no dip in performance vs using the newer style. It is just that i have ordered about 10 of the new style and out of all of them only 1 fits properly even after trying to re-form them to fit. Vapexhale even worked with me on sending them back for replacement which did not help and after that they sent me 2 or 3 for free that still did not fit. At least they tried but i have heard several other members have the same problem so if you got a few good fitting ones , my advice is to take care of them just in case. Some of my new style will actually start to rise up during inhale and sometimes even end up coming out with my HT when i pull it.
 
Ended up getting a factory second Symbiartic (super minor wear on logo/unevenness) and a hydrabase. Steven's Symbiartic replica is alright (especially at $50), but can't compete even remotely.

If you were planning on getting a limited edition tube, definitely recommend the factory second.
 

ataxian

PALE BLUE DOT
Right so at some point vapexhale changed the design, or supplier, of the elb's ?

And I've just got old/flat stock..

The package was only a doubled over piece of card, taped... Nothing structural....

The ss mesh on the new is definitely heavier. You can see through the old ones much easier...
This must alter air flow and the dynamics of the machine...???

Edit :- just tried to insert one of the elb's into the evo, and it's fucking tight, like way to tight. I got it half in an decided not to force it.

The ones I got with my evo are a perfect fit. Not tight, not loose. Just right.
GetAttachmentThumbnail

You know how the yanks always destroy the ENGLISH language:
Sometime we say batter batter swing!

I say, "Hey SHATTER; SHATTER; INHALE; COUGH; CHOKE; RELAX"!
 

Justpassedu

Well-Known Member
Ended up getting a factory second Symbiartic (super minor wear on logo/unevenness) and a hydrabase. Steven's Symbiartic replica is alright (especially at $50), but can't compete even remotely.

If you were planning on getting a limited edition tube, definitely recommend the factory second.
I personally would not take the chance on a factory 2nd , while yours may work well , all glass is not created equal and the next person that gets one could be a completely different story. There not all made the same. That's the problem with most of vapexhales glass even if its not a factory second , some are made well and some are just so uneven .
 

oldiebutgoodie

Apostle, Church of Vaporization
Hi all, I've just got a cloud evo and have been using it a few times today, it is second hand though. I have given everything a good clean in iso etc, but just cannot seem to get these milky hits. I'm heating the unit up for 15 minutes on 3 o clock, turning it to 1, waiting a few mins, doing a 30-second ish inhale, starting slow and getting faster, and am not really getting anything that solid. Any suggestions? Cheers!

Try keeping at 3?
 
oldiebutgoodie,

UnidenWallet

Well-Known Member
I personally would not take the chance on a factory 2nd , while yours may work well , all glass is not created equal and the next person that gets one could be a completely different story. There not all made the same. That's the problem with most of vapexhales glass even if its not a factory second , some are made well and some are just so uneven .

Especially on the symbiartic... If you have $400 to spend on a piece of glass, you might as well spend the extra $100 for a fully functional price instead of risking on getting a lemon that's "factory seconds"
 

KimDracula

Well-Known Member
Especially on the symbiartic... If you have $400 to spend on a piece of glass, you might as well spend the extra $100 for a fully functional price instead of risking on getting a lemon that's "factory seconds"

Maybe. I wouldn't have gone for a second, either, because of the relatively small discount on an expensive piece. On the other hand the paranoia some of us have had regarding the factory seconds really hasn't been borne out by the evidence. So far I think we've had at least two factory seconds Symbiartics and at least one dry mouthpiece and they were happy. I'm not sure we should be so consistently warning people away. The seconds are supposed to have very specific imperfections so you shouldn't really get stuck with a dud that doesn't work properly.
 

Vital

Well-Known Member
I love my EVO
I love my NANO
I love my SOLO
I love my "Q"
I love my SSV
I love my DA BUDDHA
I love my LSV
I love my VAP 2
I love my LOTUS
I love my HEAT WAND
I love my FIRE FLY
I love W9 TECH STUFF

I might have more somewhere?

CIVILIZED

@milkmann HERB QUALITY? SHATTER every time I get rich thick clouds.
Blue vapor will work. Dry your flowers if you cloud chase?

I like FLAVOR and EFFECT, However FLAVOR is where I start! (if it tastes amazing the effect will follow)




Hi Ataxian,

Why is it your answers NEVER have anything to do with the topic or question? Perhaps you need to step away from your Vaporizers for a bit... :lol:
 
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