QF1994
Well-Known Member
Has anyone used a Hotshot with the Gentleman Pipe? I broke my glass J-hook today and I really like the idea of the Gentleman Pipe but I was worried it wouldn't fit with the door on the Hotshot.
VapCap Induction Heater for Desktop and in Car Use
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NYKnicks212
Active Member
NYKnicks212
Active Member
I happen to have an Aukey wall charger and then a Sabrent 20,000 mAh portable powerbank. I've only used the Pipes provided plug and cable. I hate to ask, but anything involving electronics is so over my head. Are either of these compatible with the hotshot? Do I avoid any of the inputs on the power devices?
Aukey plug in charger
Aukey Specs:
Input: AC 100-240V
Output (Quick Charge 3.0): 3.6V-6.5V 3A, 6.5V-9V 2A, 9V-12V 1.5A
Sabrent portable battery
Sabrent Specs:
Input: Micro USB 5V 2A, 9V 2A (18W Max) / Type-C DC5V 3A, DC9V 2A (18W Max PD3.0)
Output Output USB / Type-C: DC5V 3A, DC9V 2A, DC12V 1.5A (18W Max QC3.0 + PD3.0)
Park Avenue, NYC
Aukey plug in charger
Aukey Specs:
Input: AC 100-240V
Output (Quick Charge 3.0): 3.6V-6.5V 3A, 6.5V-9V 2A, 9V-12V 1.5A
Sabrent portable battery
Sabrent Specs:
Input: Micro USB 5V 2A, 9V 2A (18W Max) / Type-C DC5V 3A, DC9V 2A (18W Max PD3.0)
Output Output USB / Type-C: DC5V 3A, DC9V 2A, DC12V 1.5A (18W Max QC3.0 + PD3.0)
Park Avenue, NYC
Last edited:
Kupoace
Mid Schwagger: The Last Rock'n'Rollah
Looks like both are compatible with QC 3.0 and as I understand it, the Hotshot takes 2 amp charging. I use a QC 3.0 charger with mine.
QF1994
Well-Known Member
Dang. Oh well, saves me some money since I can just buy a slew of J-hooks for far less than the pipe.Unfortunately it looks like it still won't even if you do take the door off.
I am wildly in love with the Hotshot, it's so easy.
NYKnicks212
Active Member
I'm in the market for a J-Hook myself. The one I bought recently is tiny and ineffective. Weight distribution is important! I saw one of those China-based online retailers that sells them 3 at a time. I might do that and just have two spares sitting around.Dang. Oh well, saves me some money since I can just buy a slew of J-hooks for far less than the pipe.
I am wildly in love with the Hotshot, it's so easy.
I looked into the Gentleman pipe as well, because it looks well made, but it seems like it would be way too difficult to keep clean.
swieder711
Well-Known Member
Does anyone know what is going on with my HotShot magnet?
https://ibb.co/TYMNzVH
https://ibb.co/TYMNzVH
swieder711
Well-Known Member
I opened the bottom door and pushed on the battery. The magnet popped back up to its original height. Thanks!
I will have to look around for some foam or other material that can fill the space.
I will have to look around for some foam or other material that can fill the space.
Hey guys, I think it's time for some NEWS and UPDATES
First off, Thanks to the community here for all the ongoing support and trust. A special breed of people for sure.
So the HotShot has been quite the hit and has had many great reviews and feedback. The biggest likes are towards the ease of use and the handheld size.
Unfortunately, the HS's days are numbers. The bad news is that my enclosure supplier no longer makes this model. Apparently, the mold broke and is not worth fixing/replacing. Although, the vagueness of the broken English replies I get, when I actually do get a reply, is very confusing. I’ve been on their case since last December so I think we’re fucked there. My current inventory is it. I’m down to 30 black ones left but still have lots of silvers to last for a few months.
The good news is that I’m already on the case for a replacement and with what I have learned from the Hot Shot, it should be a Brute! This new endeavor is still a while off before it becomes a reality. Please no probing. All I can say is it won't be as small as the HS.
As for the Hot Shot, there have been a couple of weaknesses that I want to go over.
We all know the doors can break easily and are more of a cosmetic issue rather than a functional problem.
If the top door breaks off, the spring and whatever is left can be removed by pushing the retaining pin out with a pin or small paperclip. If you look carefully along the top of the side panels, you will see the pinholes. Push ½ way and grasp the other side while holding the door spring so it doesn’t fly into the unit. Although, it will likely end up on the magnet.
If the bottom door loses its plastic side pins, the easiest fix is a couple of strips of black electrical tape. Lay a strip on a clean cuttable surface, so it can be sliced lengthwise. ¼” thick is good, you need one strip to go lengthwise along the center of the door between the feet and going up the sides by ¼” on each side. A second strip can then go around the bottom circumference embracing two ends and securing it all together. This strip should not be stretched too tight as it will slowly pull apart if it is. You will end up with a black stripe around the bottom but actually very secure and more worry-free.
The main weakness and the real thorn in the ass for all that it happens to, is the USB connector breaking off the board. These DC-DC boards are cheaply made and these connectors can’t take much abuse. However, the weaker ones do go very fast. There have been a few reasons for the failures so I can’t totally blame the cheap boards. The connector to enclosure alignment would shift sometimes in shipment, and the user then tries to move it via the opening. This pretty much instantly breaks it off. The proper way to align is to push hard against either the top magnet to move down or open the bottom and push hard against the battery.
To help remedy this, I started applying JBWeld to all the connectors for the last while as well as any units coming back for repair. So far none of these have failed. Yah!
We also had the well-known, less critical, magnet comes off or is a crooked syndrome.
I no longer glue at all but rather have the magnet stick to a metal disc insert I added to the top on the inside. It’s a thin 15mm metal disc affixed to the top of the module by double-sided foam tape. The reason for using foam is that it acts like a spring and will self-level the disc when pushing it against the inside top under the magnet hole. You can easily remove the magnet with something more attractive than the disc underneath. VCs do not have near the pull needed to remove the magnet, so no worries there. Again, so far, no more complaints.
One last but not least is if the unit won’t charge and acts like there is no battery in it. I found this happens if the user has removed the battery to have a looksy inside. What can happen fairly easily is the wires going into the connector can pull out a tad and this trips the BMS safety circuit. This can be resolved by pushing the wires back into the connector tight.
Here are a few FAQs that have come up frequently.
What is the packet of discs that come with the unit for?
The wooden disc is the “heatshield” which can double as a spacer and the heat-resistant rubber cushion is a “friction pad” which is attached to the underside of the heatshield to keep it from falling out of the tube if inverted. The pad is affixed offset to the disc so some protrudes along the side. This protrusion acts as a kind of hinge by pressing against the tube pushing the wooden disc against the tube on the opposite side. The pressure is adjustable by increasing/decreasing the offset by peeling away the pad and reseating it.
To use the wooden disc as a spacer, it should be installed under the heatshield/cushion pad combo so it resides closest to the actual switch.
To remove the heatshield from the tube, you need tweezers. Push down on the side of the wooden disc closest to the glass tube. The disc should flip up enough to be able to grab with the tweezers and remove. To re-install, push down evenly with a VC cap.
How can I tell if the HS is charged 100%?
The charging circuit in the HS gets quite warm while charging. This warmth can easily be felt on the rear around the USB connector while charging. It will stay warm for the duration of the charge cycle and go cool when complete. Note that if the connector is not feeling warm after 5 minutes, it is not receiving a charge and investigation is needed.
My HS charger buzzes while charging, is this normal?
Yes, this is normal but can vary between chargers. Generally caused while under heavy load and coil winding are oscillating causing a buzz.
All in all, the HS has proven to be excellent in its performance and portability. With the early problems improved upon, the overall concept will continue into the next model. I’ll get more into that once I get more into its development. So, 2021 will be the year of the HotShot, remember I do still have quite a few silvers so not dead yet. Black was definitely the favored colour. I also still have Silver B grade units if anyone is interested.
Pipes out!
First off, Thanks to the community here for all the ongoing support and trust. A special breed of people for sure.
So the HotShot has been quite the hit and has had many great reviews and feedback. The biggest likes are towards the ease of use and the handheld size.
Unfortunately, the HS's days are numbers. The bad news is that my enclosure supplier no longer makes this model. Apparently, the mold broke and is not worth fixing/replacing. Although, the vagueness of the broken English replies I get, when I actually do get a reply, is very confusing. I’ve been on their case since last December so I think we’re fucked there. My current inventory is it. I’m down to 30 black ones left but still have lots of silvers to last for a few months.
The good news is that I’m already on the case for a replacement and with what I have learned from the Hot Shot, it should be a Brute! This new endeavor is still a while off before it becomes a reality. Please no probing. All I can say is it won't be as small as the HS.
As for the Hot Shot, there have been a couple of weaknesses that I want to go over.
We all know the doors can break easily and are more of a cosmetic issue rather than a functional problem.
If the top door breaks off, the spring and whatever is left can be removed by pushing the retaining pin out with a pin or small paperclip. If you look carefully along the top of the side panels, you will see the pinholes. Push ½ way and grasp the other side while holding the door spring so it doesn’t fly into the unit. Although, it will likely end up on the magnet.
If the bottom door loses its plastic side pins, the easiest fix is a couple of strips of black electrical tape. Lay a strip on a clean cuttable surface, so it can be sliced lengthwise. ¼” thick is good, you need one strip to go lengthwise along the center of the door between the feet and going up the sides by ¼” on each side. A second strip can then go around the bottom circumference embracing two ends and securing it all together. This strip should not be stretched too tight as it will slowly pull apart if it is. You will end up with a black stripe around the bottom but actually very secure and more worry-free.
The main weakness and the real thorn in the ass for all that it happens to, is the USB connector breaking off the board. These DC-DC boards are cheaply made and these connectors can’t take much abuse. However, the weaker ones do go very fast. There have been a few reasons for the failures so I can’t totally blame the cheap boards. The connector to enclosure alignment would shift sometimes in shipment, and the user then tries to move it via the opening. This pretty much instantly breaks it off. The proper way to align is to push hard against either the top magnet to move down or open the bottom and push hard against the battery.
To help remedy this, I started applying JBWeld to all the connectors for the last while as well as any units coming back for repair. So far none of these have failed. Yah!
We also had the well-known, less critical, magnet comes off or is a crooked syndrome.
I no longer glue at all but rather have the magnet stick to a metal disc insert I added to the top on the inside. It’s a thin 15mm metal disc affixed to the top of the module by double-sided foam tape. The reason for using foam is that it acts like a spring and will self-level the disc when pushing it against the inside top under the magnet hole. You can easily remove the magnet with something more attractive than the disc underneath. VCs do not have near the pull needed to remove the magnet, so no worries there. Again, so far, no more complaints.
One last but not least is if the unit won’t charge and acts like there is no battery in it. I found this happens if the user has removed the battery to have a looksy inside. What can happen fairly easily is the wires going into the connector can pull out a tad and this trips the BMS safety circuit. This can be resolved by pushing the wires back into the connector tight.
Here are a few FAQs that have come up frequently.
What is the packet of discs that come with the unit for?
The wooden disc is the “heatshield” which can double as a spacer and the heat-resistant rubber cushion is a “friction pad” which is attached to the underside of the heatshield to keep it from falling out of the tube if inverted. The pad is affixed offset to the disc so some protrudes along the side. This protrusion acts as a kind of hinge by pressing against the tube pushing the wooden disc against the tube on the opposite side. The pressure is adjustable by increasing/decreasing the offset by peeling away the pad and reseating it.
To use the wooden disc as a spacer, it should be installed under the heatshield/cushion pad combo so it resides closest to the actual switch.
To remove the heatshield from the tube, you need tweezers. Push down on the side of the wooden disc closest to the glass tube. The disc should flip up enough to be able to grab with the tweezers and remove. To re-install, push down evenly with a VC cap.
How can I tell if the HS is charged 100%?
The charging circuit in the HS gets quite warm while charging. This warmth can easily be felt on the rear around the USB connector while charging. It will stay warm for the duration of the charge cycle and go cool when complete. Note that if the connector is not feeling warm after 5 minutes, it is not receiving a charge and investigation is needed.
My HS charger buzzes while charging, is this normal?
Yes, this is normal but can vary between chargers. Generally caused while under heavy load and coil winding are oscillating causing a buzz.
All in all, the HS has proven to be excellent in its performance and portability. With the early problems improved upon, the overall concept will continue into the next model. I’ll get more into that once I get more into its development. So, 2021 will be the year of the HotShot, remember I do still have quite a few silvers so not dead yet. Black was definitely the favored colour. I also still have Silver B grade units if anyone is interested.
Pipes out!
NYKnicks212
Active Member
Yeah so I REALLY love this thing and was already considering purchasing a backup, but.... Yesterday the hotshot took a funky fall that caused the bottom door to pop off and battery to fall about halfway out. It still works somehow but I damn near had a heart attack. As a result, this hotshot owner is also #29 on the waitlist for another. With the hotshot looking like it's to be discontinued, this is a great purchase for me.
Separately....people prefer the black over the silver? To me the silver one is so much more attractive. I was gonna go with black because I already have a silver, but it sounds like black is in short order.
Another thing for Mr. Pipes...... I'm uncertain of the effectiveness of the rubber feet. I feel like it makes it wobble more than no feet would. Anyway, love the device and I'm looking forward to being the owner of two!
With the hotshot looking like it's to be discontinued, this is a great purchase for me. Separately....people prefer the black over the silver? To me the silver one is so much more attractive. I was gonna go with black because I already have a silver, but it sounds like black is in short order.
Another thing for Mr. Pipes...... I'm uncertain of the effectiveness of the rubber feet. I feel like it makes it wobble more than no feet would. Anyway, love the device and I'm looking forward to being the owner of two!
Hmm, based on what Pipes was saying about the micro USB, might go with one of these magnetic cables that would leave the micro USB connecter attached in the tight micro USB slot.
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Is it compatible? Bc that would be useful
TommyDee
Vaporitor
The specs say it works to 2.4 amps and that is about what I am reading when charging mine so it should be good to go.
What risks the internal connector however is something to consider. Does your internal slide down when you press on the magnet/chamber? Is there sufficient clearance around the USB jack have clearance 'below' the jack in the case?
I did two thing to harden the USB jack on the HotShot - I slid the insides out to makes sure everything was as compressed as it could be - put everything back and tidy up the battery wiring to maximize your space below the cell - add a spacer of sorts to make sure the whole insides cannot slide down when you press on the magnet - In tandem; open up the hole around the connector while you have the guts in your hands so if things do slide down, the case doesn't guillotine the connector on the charge circuit. You can always add goo as Pipes did in the images above if that make you feel better.
DO NOT PULL ON THE WIRES TO DISASSEMBLE THE HOTSHOT! Ask me how I know ;]
What risks the internal connector however is something to consider. Does your internal slide down when you press on the magnet/chamber? Is there sufficient clearance around the USB jack have clearance 'below' the jack in the case?
I did two thing to harden the USB jack on the HotShot - I slid the insides out to makes sure everything was as compressed as it could be - put everything back and tidy up the battery wiring to maximize your space below the cell - add a spacer of sorts to make sure the whole insides cannot slide down when you press on the magnet - In tandem; open up the hole around the connector while you have the guts in your hands so if things do slide down, the case doesn't guillotine the connector on the charge circuit. You can always add goo as Pipes did in the images above if that make you feel better.
DO NOT PULL ON THE WIRES TO DISASSEMBLE THE HOTSHOT! Ask me how I know ;]
I'm going to save that and I'm going to come back to all this information because I just put an order in for a Hotshot. Kind of seems that detachable magnetic USB thing will help me avoid the USB as much as possible lol
DaleCooper
New Member
It looks like the portside mini has stopped charging correctly, is there anything to be done? The light on the charger seems to blink when I attach it to the device.
RUDE BOY
Space is the Place
I had this happen a couple of years ago, replaced the charger and all's been well ever since then.
Just got my hotshot in the mail, and the usb port a little sunken. Edit: how can I push it back up?
Edit#2: so I opened the bottom door and pushed the battery up and it seemed to put the USB back in place. But now the USB cable that came with it fell apart >__>. Hopefully I have another compatible cable. Not the smoothest start
Edit#2: so I opened the bottom door and pushed the battery up and it seemed to put the USB back in place. But now the USB cable that came with it fell apart >__>. Hopefully I have another compatible cable. Not the smoothest start
Last edited: