VapCap Induction Heater for Desktop and in Car Use

Pipes

Addicted DIY Enthusiast
Accessory Maker
Here are some instructions on disassembly as there are a couple of "tricks" one needs to know.
Opening the bottom lid: "Close the upper lid!!!"
You need to open the same as the upper door and on the same side. Except it's not spring-loaded so you may need to apply some upward force with your fingernail. Press on the side hard in the sweet spot is the secret. Once one gets used to using the top lid, it gets easier. The battery fit is very tight and if overly tight, it does make that sweet spot harder to push. When installing a new battery you will need to push on the end that the wires come out of to flatten as much as possible. The goal is to shorten the overall battery length a tad.
Frame removal instructions: "Close the upper lid!!!"
Remove the battery by pulling the wires laying on the top. The battery will slide out and be careful of the bottom door. Carefully undo the battery connector. Under the battery, you'll find a tool to pull off the internal door. Insert the tool into the slot on the inner lid and pull. It is tight and comes out quickly when it does. Then you push the tube until the assembly is close to the bottom door but NOT beyond. OK, you can open the upper lid for this, but remember to CLOSE IT when your finger is out.
Here's the non-obvious part. The little USB board will move towards the front by 1/2 mm to clear the rear hinge of the bottom door. The inside lid you pulled out has many functions, one of which is to hold the USB board toward the back of the unit. Upon re-assembly, the USB board needs to be pushed back and frame forward against the front before the lower lid will fit back in. This USB board movement will likely be missed by most and run into problems without this knowledge.
The inside lid also pushes up against the bottom of the activation switch and holds it up in place. Another important function of this door is to serve as a wedge to hold the frame in place. It pushes the frame forward against the front of the enclosure. There are two rubber pads mounted to the front of the frame which keep it from sliding up and down once assembled. :science:
 

Old_muel

Well-Known Member
If the battery is user replaceable anyway why won't you ship them oversees without a battery? What's the difference?
 
Old_muel,

Pipes

Addicted DIY Enthusiast
Accessory Maker
:borg: I know, it sounds so complicated. :mental: Like WTF is this asshole saying. :uhh:
Trust me though, it will become very clear once you have the unit in hand.
I've been going to put together a video or pictorial but never find the time. :buzz:
The list has moved along very nicely.
If anyone is still interested in B Grade units, I still have some silver and a couple of black ones left. $30 off.

@Old_muel, Shipping units overseas has always been problematic and the batteries were the icing on the cake. Shipping without a battery would introduce a different line of headaches. :horse:
 

bener

Vapeologist
Here are some instructions on disassembly as there are a couple of "tricks" one needs to know.
Opening the bottom lid: "Close the upper lid!!!"
You need to open the same as the upper door and on the same side. Except it's not spring-loaded so you may need to apply some upward force with your fingernail. Press on the side hard in the sweet spot is the secret. Once one gets used to using the top lid, it gets easier. The battery fit is very tight and if overly tight, it does make that sweet spot harder to push. When installing a new battery you will need to push on the end that the wires come out of to flatten as much as possible. The goal is to shorten the overall battery length a tad.
Frame removal instructions: "Close the upper lid!!!"
Remove the battery by pulling the wires laying on the top. The battery will slide out and be careful of the bottom door. Carefully undo the battery connector. Under the battery, you'll find a tool to pull off the internal door. Insert the tool into the slot on the inner lid and pull. It is tight and comes out quickly when it does. Then you push the tube until the assembly is close to the bottom door but NOT beyond. OK, you can open the upper lid for this, but remember to CLOSE IT when your finger is out.
Here's the non-obvious part. The little USB board will move towards the front by 1/2 mm to clear the rear hinge of the bottom door. The inside lid you pulled out has many functions, one of which is to hold the USB board toward the back of the unit. Upon re-assembly, the USB board needs to be pushed back and frame forward against the front before the lower lid will fit back in. This USB board movement will likely be missed by most and run into problems without this knowledge.
The inside lid also pushes up against the bottom of the activation switch and holds it up in place. Another important function of this door is to serve as a wedge to hold the frame in place. It pushes the frame forward against the front of the enclosure. There are two rubber pads mounted to the front of the frame which keep it from sliding up and down once assembled. :science:
Thank you for the information, Pipes. I believe mine arrives tomorrow, I am pretty psyched!
 

Han Solo

Guess which vape I got just before joining
Mine arrived this morning.

The magnet immediately jumped out onto the vapcap. Seems it wasn't very securely placed. (There's hardened glue around where it was, so I'm not saying it wasn't glued. It just didn't hold.) What's recommended for securing the magnet?

I also used the Samsung charger from my phone is plugged in and it does not seem to be getting warm near the USB port. I feel like I read something about adaptive chargers not working, but I'm not sure I've ever had a phone or anything else come with a quick charger that wasn't adaptive. Any advice on what I should be looking for?

This seems like a great device once it's working but it does 2 things: Heat you're vapcap once it's charged, and hold it in place with a magnet to cool. Naturally, I immediately have trouble with both 🤷‍♀️

Edit: I've now plugged it into a battery bank I have and the charge port seems to have warmed up.
Any guidance on something to plug it into the wall, and what to secure the magnet with would be appreciated.
Not certain I was correct on the Samsung adaptive charger not working or if I just didn't wait long enough to feel it warm up, but I don't wanna test by switching it between chargers a bunch before the battery is conditioned.
 
Last edited:
Han Solo,
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NexVision

Well-Known Member
Mine arrived this morning.

The magnet immediately jumped out onto the vapcap. Seems it wasn't very securely placed. (There's hardened glue around where it was, so I'm not saying it wasn't glued. It just didn't hold.) What's recommended for securing the magnet?

I also used the Samsung charger from my phone is plugged in and it does not seem to be getting warm near the USB port. I feel like I read something about adaptive chargers not working, but I'm not sure I've ever had a phone or anything else come with a quick charger that wasn't adaptive. Any advice on what I should be looking for?

This seems like a great device once it's working but it does 2 things: Heat you're vapcap once it's charged, and hold it in place with a magnet to cool. Naturally, I immediately have trouble with both 🤷‍♀️

Edit: I've now plugged it into a battery bank I have and the charge port seems to have warmed up.
Any guidance on something to plug it into the wall, and what to secure the magnet with would be appreciated.
Not certain I was correct on the Samsung adaptive charger not working or if I just didn't wait long enough to feel it warm up, but I don't wanna test by switching it between chargers a bunch before the battery is conditioned.
For the magnet glue I had the same issue I used https://is.gd/KO218g I had used previously on other heaters and works great.

For the charger I actually use a old Ipad charging brick which seems to be working wonderfully.
 

Han Solo

Guess which vape I got just before joining
All charged up (bit faster than expected, but my power bank shuts off when it's done charging whatever is plugged in. It charged a little over an hour, and shut off. If turned back on with the Hotshot plugged in, the powerbank displays its power level and shuts back off, so the Hotshot must be charged. Arriving roughly 33% charged, that's only slightly faster than I'd expect for a 2hr full charge time, so I'm just over thinking things.)

Anyway, this thing is fantastic!
It'll be especially nice once I have the magnet properly secured, but the heater it wonderful.
 
Last edited:

Pipes

Addicted DIY Enthusiast
Accessory Maker
The magnet immediately jumped out onto the vapcap. Seems it wasn't very securely placed. (There's hardened glue around where it was, so I'm not saying it wasn't glued. It just didn't hold.) What's recommended for securing the magnet?

I also used the Samsung charger from my phone is plugged in and it does not seem to be getting warm near the USB port. I feel like I read something about adaptive chargers not working, but I'm not sure I've ever had a phone or anything else come with a quick charger that wasn't adaptive. Any advice on what I should be looking for?
Epoxy is the best solution. JB-Quickweld or similar should work fine. Mix up a small amount and put a very small pea-sized dab into the hole and then push in the magnet. There is a little spacer that should be attached to the magnet, leave in place to prevent the magnet from setting too low.
Most chargers will work but newer smart ones that are manufacturer-specific or are dual voltage do not work. You need a cheap generic quick charger. :science:
 

Han Solo

Guess which vape I got just before joining
Epoxy is the best solution. JB-Quickweld or similar should work fine. Mix up a small amount and put a very small pea-sized dab into the hole and then push in the magnet. There is a little spacer that should be attached to the magnet, leave in place to prevent the magnet from setting too low.
Most chargers will work but newer smart ones that are manufacturer-specific or are dual voltage do not work. You need a cheap generic quick charger. :science:
Yup, the spacer is still on the magnet.

I've got some of this Gorilla 2 part epoxy:

It seems about the same, and I'm guessing I can use it. The JB weld I'm looking at says it's "Steel reinforced" which is the largest noteable difference I see, and I can't imagine that's a requirement here. Just wanted to double check before doing repairs. Thanks!

And thanks for the tip on the charger. I'll look for one of those when I get sick of using a power bank :lol:
 
Han Solo,

Han Solo

Guess which vape I got just before joining
Right on. Thanks for advising.

This thing is fantastic. I've never used another induction heater to compare it to, but the ease of use over a torch is huge. I've gotta experiment with how far past the click I can take it, but a couple seconds seems to hit about like a torch, and taking it out right at the click gets me nice light flavorful hits and a bunch more of them. Obviously not as potent as the thicker hits that kill the load in one or two hits, but really nice to have as an easily accessible option. Heating towards the tip was about the closest I could get to that with a torch.
 

stark1

Lonesome Planet
The magnet glue/adhesive should be stronger. Mine came off after
2-3 dockings.

Ditto on the adhesive holding the Hotshot sides, mine started curling
Up early on.

Battery connector issues, but mine is a beta unit.

What a fantastic little gizmo! My fav new IH for Spring 2020. Covid free, too!

 

Pipes

Addicted DIY Enthusiast
Accessory Maker
I believe most new vehicles have quick charge USB outlets but can't say for sure they "all" have quick charge. The cigarette light types are generally labeled 1 or 2 amp. :science:
 

ahm123

Well-Known Member
The magnet glue/adhesive should be stronger. Mine came off after
2-3 dockings.

Ditto on the adhesive holding the Hotshot sides, mine started curling
Up early on.

Battery connector issues, but mine is a beta unit.

What a fantastic little gizmo! My fav new IH for Spring 2020. Covid free, too!

Can you confirm if an apple iPhone adapter works for charging? Super excited to receive my Hotshot!
 
ahm123,
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stark1

Lonesome Planet
Wrong person to ask, Bud.
I use my Samsung chargers exclusively, but I imagine as long as your charger
Is rated at least 2 Amps, it should charge your Hotshot. :tup:
 
stark1,

VAPEHUNTER

Well-Known Member
Could you link me to the charger you got? Please and thank you :)
This ones been working good for me.
 
VAPEHUNTER,
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ahm123

Well-Known Member
This ones been working good for me.
Awesome, thank you buddy. Do you know by chance if an apple iPhone charger box would work also? Cheers.
 
ahm123,

Pipes

Addicted DIY Enthusiast
Accessory Maker
Why are we aiming for 2-amp chargers? Seems a slow 1/2 amp charger would eventually charge the cells. Basically 2-1/2 watts instead of 10 watts. Overnight?
This would be correct for most charging schemes but in this case, it starves the DC-DC converter and it stops outputting almost altogether. I had this confirmed by one of my testers. It may eventually charge but with a low battery, it would take a very long time. The DC-DC converter maxes out at 2 amp which translates to around 400-500 mA on the 12.6 V side. I adjusted the converter to have an output of 12.6V with 5.2V on the input.
I'm sure you have this all figured out once you get yours. Only a few days now. :p :D
 
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