My PSM arrived today. Fastest anything has ever come through customs. I really wasn't expecting it before Monday, tho I am happy to have it now.
My switch died recently and I had to switch out the driver. It's a custom piece, built by Pipes, and not something you can get elsewhere.been showing my portside mini a lil too much love. heating it maybe 5 times in a row til the tip of my switch fell off. it doesn't click anymore but it still works if i press hard enough. is the driver modular on the google docs the "best" 1 i can buy or are there other compatible drivers i can consider?
gona have to put in another order then. what are some other parts that would be good to have on hand? i alrdy have a spare battery.My switch died recently and I had to switch out the driver. It's a custom piece, built by Pipes, and not something you can get elsewhere.
I asked in a PM and Pipes said to use it until it stops heating, then charge. I just wanted to be sure I am conditioning the battery well on the first few charges. Loving the PSM. I like that it is faster than the JarHead.
IIRC, Pipes Jarhead replacement (his Caldron) originally came with a a 6A PS. He then started shipping with an 8A PS and users reported faster heatup times. 8A is probably plenty and is a big jump from the 5A. The 10A model that MrCfromcali recommends for his FLIX is neat because it is VARIABLE, from 3-12v and using it at lower voltages will give a nice slow roast if that's your goal. The FLIX does not use the same electronics as Pipes' devices, so I'm not sure if the full 12v 10A might be a bit much for the Jarhead, though. I was under the impression that Pipes' desktop units (I almost said AC, because they need to be plugged-in ... but the power supplies convert the AC to DC, so they are still DC!) units only draw around 6A max ... and that the 8A units he ships are more or less of an insurance policy to make sure that they can deliver 6A without needing to tap into their "headroom" ... whereas the 6A ones, while in theory CAN provide 6A, actually are pretty taxed when put on a 6A demand ... some better ones can handle it, but other brands start to have trouble maintaining their output. Of course, I didn't answer your question and am just rambling ... avoiding going back outside to wrestle the rotor off my civic (such a PITA job, here in the "salt belt" due to so much rust. The first side took way too much effort, but now that I have the right tools I'm expecting the other side to be much less aggravating.The Jarhead from Pipes was my first IH. ...Can I use it with a 2.5mm 12V 10A power adapter instead of the 5A it came with? I recently got another plug-in IH and this change made all the difference.
IIRC, Pipes Jarhead replacement (his Caldron) originally came with a a 6A PS. He then started shipping with an 8A PS and users reported faster heatup times. 8A is probably plenty and is a big jump from the 5A.
That's exactly the information I was looking for, and I think I saw an 8A on Amazon I can try. Thanks @Mono Loco!IIRC, Pipes Jarhead replacement (his Caldron) originally came with a a 6A PS. He then started shipping with an 8A PS and users reported faster heatup times. 8A is probably plenty and is a big jump from the 5A. The 10A model that MrCfromcali recommends for his FLIX is neat because it is VARIABLE, from 3-12v and using it at lower voltages will give a nice slow roast if that's your goal. The FLIX does not use the same electronics as Pipes' devices, so I'm not sure if the full 12v 10A might be a bit much for the Jarhead, though. I was under the impression that Pipes' desktop units (I almost said AC, because they need to be plugged-in ... but the power supplies convert the AC to DC, so they are still DC!) units only draw around 6A max ... and that the 8A units he ships are more or less of an insurance policy to make sure that they can deliver 6A without needing to tap into their "headroom" ... whereas the 6A ones, while in theory CAN provide 6A, actually are pretty taxed when put on a 6A demand ... some better ones can handle it, but other brands start to have trouble maintaining their output. Of course, I didn't answer your question and am just rambling ... avoiding going back outside to wrestle the rotor off my civic (such a PITA job, here in the "salt belt" due to so much rust. The first side took way too much effort, but now that I have the right tools I'm expecting the other side to be much less aggravating.
I believe Pipes was all out of the ones he used to use, which he found to be of good quality. It seems pretty hit-or-miss regarding quality with the no-name power supply/adapters on Amazon (AlieExpress, BangGood, etc.). If you can find an OEM one from an old laptop computer, that is 12v (as some are 19v, etc.), they are typically better than average. At work, we used to use MeanWell Power supplies for industrial applications. They are not as cheap as the generic "luck of the dice" ones, but seem to be good quality and are not expensive ~ $30. The GST90A12-P1M 6.67A seems like it might be a good one for I.H.s ????Any idea how we can get our hands on the 6a ps? I tried running a 50ft extension cord but my tips still clicking at 3 secs
I believe Pipes was all out of the ones he used to use, which he found to be of good quality. It seems pretty hit-or-miss regarding quality with the no-name power supply/adapters on Amazon (AlieExpress, BangGood, etc.). If you can find an OEM one from an old laptop computer, that is 12v (as some are 19v, etc.), they are typically better than average. At work, we used to use MeanWell Power supplies for industrial applications. They are not as cheap as the generic "luck of the dice" ones, but seem to be good quality and are not expensive ~ $30. The GST90A12-P1M 6.67A seems like it might be a good one for I.H.s ????
Was your 50ft extension between the wall outlet and the PS power cord? You could also try an extension between the PS and the IH ... it will be much smaller, requiring a 5.5mmx2.1mm Male Plug on one end and the 5.5mmx2.1mm Female jack on the other. There was some technical discussion on this a while back where I thought that a thicker cord would slow the power down ... I'm a dummy, as electricity thrives on heavy gauges, so I had it backwards! A lighter AWG will have trouble maintaining the original power so it would cause a power loss ... which is the objective if you are trying to get an extended heating time to the click So ... ??? What gauge, what length ??? I have no idea, but someone else does ....
WOW he making anymore?
.... " took it for granite "I just took if for granite that he was!