VapCap DIY Induction Heating : Bits 'n' pieces

[pxl_jockey]

Aw man, that’s not what I meant to convey! I’m in a rough patch but it’ll be better, I’ve been doing this a long time. I don’t want you to give me stuff, my friend. You’re too nice and kind. I was honestly just playing with you and encouraging you to do more. Because then I could perhaps buy one! I’m honestly just amazed by your brain and the ideas it comes up with, you make it look easy!

I’ve got a small surgery in 2 weeks, then a big one next month that requires 18 months of physiotherapy! But tonight I got a wonderful bit of long anticipated news and I feel fortunate to be alive. I’ll definitely be messaging you later about a stem and then we can discuss this matter further. Good night!

 

[Hogni]

Congrats, @pxl_jockey!

SDS, what's about: "Order 10 stems and get one IH for free!"?

 

[stardustsailor]

The " Jules Bern " unit now has found a new owner .
So ,i had to make a new one for myself .

A " lab-style " IH system .

From left to right :

* Mains power source ( tethered main unit )
Input (mains) : 100-240 VAC , 50/60 Hz , 1A
Output : 12 VDC , 10 A

* Main IH unit
Input : 12VDC ,10A max.

* Battery pack ( portable main unit )
Input /Charging ( rocker switch position "II" ) : 12,6 VDC ,1A ,3S Li-ion charger
Output ( rocker switch position "I" ) : 12 VDC ,10A , 3Ah
(cells used : 3x LG HG2 )

 

[CuckFumbustion]

Okay so i ordered a 5V-12V Low Voltage ZVS Induction Heating Power Supply Module + Heater Coil RM and have a lot of ideas to mull over. Especially after finding this thread. But I'm electronically illiterate. There are some concerns with powering up or frying mosfits, etc. So what might be a good simple power setup solutions to prevent most of these things from happening? Have a ton of power cords, etc th choose from to strip. The amount of AMPs matter I guess. What might be the sweet spot voltage wise to use? Actually any insight that would prevent me from frying the unit before I actually come up with a project.

 

[stardustsailor]

Actually it is the voltage and not the amperage that can destroy the MOSFETs.

Few "rules of thumb " to follow ,in order to have a trouble free operation of the ZVS IH module .

1 ) The supplied Voltage should not be less than 5 VDC and not more than 12,5-13 VDC .

2 ) If you will use a power supply unit ,just remember that most units hold some energy (for a brief time ) ,
after they are disconnected from the mains.
Then ,you must not activate the IH module ,if it is still connected with the PSU.
The energy stored is not sufficient to powerthe IH ,but is capable of frying the MOSFETs .
If the PSU has an indicator LED ,that LED should go completely off .

3 ) Double check all the connections and solder points on the DC side power line ( +12 VDC ) .
A bad/loose wire connection or a cold /bad solder point will/may prove destructive .
Check the ZVS IH module itself for bad or cracked solder points.
The FETs ,the diodes ,resistors,inductors ,caps and the working coil should be " rock solid " soldered .


Cheers.

 

[CuckFumbustion]

Actually it is the voltage and not the amperage that can destroy the MOSFETs.

Not part of the MOSFET blowing up. I read somewhere about enough AMPs for the unit to power up and sustain. Otherwise it doesn't work and the LED indicator blinks. KIM I'm reading all this second hand.

The energy stored is not sufficient to powerthe IH ,but is capable of frying the MOSFETs .
If the PSU has an indicator LED ,that LED should go completely off .

Thanks for rules of thumb. Especially the point about DRAINING the PWR completely before the next power up. I was thinking about using a PWR strip like say the one with my EQ and a hard switch in the middle to cut power on and off as one example. If I'm understanding that issue.

 

[stardustsailor]

All the (switching ) PSUs they are "self-draining" the remaining energy ,after unplugging from the mains.
They just need few seconds to do so .

 

[CuckFumbustion]

Read too many articles elsewhere as to what this unit needs power and ramp up quickly. I'm starting at near 0 understanding of electrical flow and trying to catch up so I can try out my IH. So my questions and presumptions need to be refined/corrected/reset.

I have a Tattoo voltage meter - TPN-023 (from my UD experiments) and a few power strips laying around with their hard on/off switches and was going to use on PWR strip as the hard switch for now. For the tattoo V.M, An analog dial sets the amps in analog, I'm presuming this anyway.
So If I set the dial at 5.9, turn off the power strip, pause and power on, the unit will read and output at 5.9. presumably. So the IH will only have access to 5.9 at any time. If it requires more because I'm trying to heat up too much mass, then I'll get the blinking lights. Try 6.0 out, etc.
Mini Professional LED Screen Rotary Tattoo Machine Power Supply With Cord | eBay
So how the unit initially powers up and down is critical. The simple IH will run away with whatever power is given to it until blue smoke occurs, from what I've read. So, I'm hoping the tattoo machine can be set at an optimum voltage. Perhaps 9v as a baseline? Also whatever is getting heated causes the IH to raise voltage?? More mass= More potential voltage? More danger?
Please correct me quickly of any false notions I have and tell me if this is sound enough of a setup for a few test runs until I come up with something more thought out.

 

[stardustsailor]

Read too many articles elsewhere as to what this unit needs power and ramp up quickly. I'm starting at near 0 understanding of electrical flow and trying to catch up so I can try out my IH. So my questions and presumptions need to be refined/corrected/reset.

I have a Tattoo voltage meter - TPN-023 (from my UD experiments) and a few power strips laying around with their hard on/off switches and was going to use on PWR strip as the hard switch for now. For the tattoo V.M, An analog dial sets the amps in analog, I'm presuming this anyway.
So If I set the dial at 5.9, turn off the power strip, pause and power on, the unit will read and output at 5.9. presumably. So the IH will only have access to 5.9 at any time. If it requires more because I'm trying to heat up too much mass, then I'll get the blinking lights. Try 6.0 out, etc.
Mini Professional LED Screen Rotary Tattoo Machine Power Supply With Cord | eBay
So how the unit initially powers up and down is critical. The simple IH will run away with whatever power is given to it until blue smoke occurs, from what I've read. So, I'm hoping the tattoo machine can be set at an optimum voltage. Perhaps 9v as a baseline? Also whatever is getting heated causes the IH to raise voltage?? More mass= More potential voltage? More danger?
Please correct me quickly of any false notions I have and tell me if this is sound enough of a setup for a few test runs until I come up with something more thought out.

The Tattoo machine power supply at the given link is not suitable to power the ZVS IH module.
It can not output more than 1.5 Amperes . The ZVS IH module needs at least 6-7 Amperes to operate properly .

The more mass to be heated = the more Amperes the ZVS IH module will "ask for " from the PSU .

The optimal operational voltage for the ZVS IH unit is 12 Volts .

For powering the ZVS IH module wou will need something like this :
https://www.ebay.com/itm/SingPad-Ad...h=item23a98d14ca:g:6LcAAOSwgh5bkEsh:rk:5:pf:0

or this :
https://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-110V-22...=item48ac43ea3e:g:3oAAAOSw51Va8H6F:rk:16:pf:0

or one of these (either the 100 W or the 150 W ) :
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Waterproof...a4df170e1:m:medpA8OU1n5GF6eeSlHKeOA:rk:1:pf:0

 

[CuckFumbustion]

It can not output more than 1.5 Amperes . The ZVS IH module needs at least 6-7 Amperes to operate properly .

Ok, the first two choices and 3rd choice with the 150 Waterproof were 10 Amperes. The 100 Amp I found was 8.5 If I'm understanding this.

The 3rd link was out of 100w. Hope this is what I'd want.
Waterproof LED Driver 100 w Watt 12 v volt IP67 power supply transformer outdoor 701806063434 | eBay

Well looking at the wires coming out of both ends. Don't really have solder equipment, but figure there is a hard switch I could wire between the LED driver and the power plug. Or would that require something else in the chain?

Looks like I'll have to slow my roll and regroup and get a real project going. Look at the first msg posted here and inspect the board itself.

http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/vapcap-diy-induction-heating-bits-n-pieces.33216/

The Waterproof 100w looks like my 1st choice ATM. But I'm open for any suggestions for a quick and dirty or at least a solder less solution.

So you can upgrade/replace the mosfits with this IH? Choose a better suited copper coil?

I've seen some DIY here that requires schematics and solder while some methods might mostly require some basic wiring skills and some screw on wire connectors to 'get er done'. Where does/can a digital LED fit into this?

Thanks for all the info and preventing me from a bad. @stardustsailor

 

[stardustsailor]

Ok, the first two choices and 3rd choice with the 150 Waterproof were 10 Amperes. The 100 Amp I found was 8.5 If I'm understanding this.

The 3rd link was out of 100w. Hope this is what I'd want.
Waterproof LED Driver 100 w Watt 12 v volt IP67 power supply transformer outdoor 701806063434 | eBay

Well looking at the wires coming out of both ends. Don't really have solder equipment, but figure there is a hard switch I could wire between the LED driver and the power plug. Or would that require something else in the chain?

Looks like I'll have to slow my roll and regroup and get a real project going. Look at the first msg posted here and inspect the board itself.

http://fuckcombustion.com/threads/vapcap-diy-induction-heating-bits-n-pieces.33216/

The Waterproof 100w looks like my 1st choice ATM. But I'm open for any suggestions for a quick and dirty or at least a solder less solution.

So you can upgrade/replace the mosfits with this IH? Choose a better suited copper coil?

I've seen some DIY here that requires schematics and solder while some methods might mostly require some basic wiring skills and some screw on wire connectors to 'get er done'. Where does/can a digital LED fit into this?

Thanks for all the info and preventing me from a bad. @stardustsailor

Brother ,I think it's time you should give it a try to acquire some basic soldering skills .
It's not that difficult ,after all .

 

[stardustsailor]

 

[stardustsailor]

Cheers

 

[Abysmal Vapor]

I just wanna stop by and give my compliments to @stardustsailor for the amazing Jules Bern ! Thank you very much for delivering this device to me ,also for the special deal <3 . It is for sure a game changer, it made me like the VC twice as much. Will post soon a short review.
For now i wanna say that i like it very much,but it is my GF that has been using it for almost a month daily .. It is no secret i am kind of a fan ,and i have share a few posts of our beloved Ataxian to her and she joked about it that the device is CIVILIZED,lol.. She says that using torches makes her feel like a caveman compared to the IH .
This device has few really strong points. It is built like tank,works like charm and has killer aesthetics ... I will quote my intial thought about it from a conversation with the maker :
""A true steam punk psychedelia,it looks like a device from an alien ship like in the movies shot in the late 70s ). I really dig the style and cannot wait till my girlfriend sees it,she studies graphic design and will be totally blown by it ).
I love custom stuff in general it brings really a special feeling of attachment ,which no utilian device can deliver.""
I admit that i had a little bumpy start with it and had to make a few tiny adjustments to make it to my liking ,but my satisfaction level is really high. Also i think i was the first guy here other than the maker to get one in the hands ,so things like this are to be expected.
So review is comming soon as i said ,but even before that i am really giving this device the Thumbs up !

 

[Phenix]

So did I got it right that the „optimal“ PSU would be 12V DC 10A 120W?
Below link quotes 20% power loss. Is that true ?

Like this one
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.de/ulk/itm/152855214531

 

[wbward]

I have been lurking on this and several other threads for awhile now and finally decided to take the plunge. New M 18 on the way along with some of the parts need for one on the IH units. I ordered the driver board and coil and the mosfet board along with sone switches. I have a box of power supplies as I used to repair laptops.

I posted this question on another thread hope it ok to post the question twice...

My question is... what is the most current recommended parts / schematic for a desktop version. I would like to leave it plugged to the wall and use a switch at the unit to gate the power and another for the coil operation. Any help is appreciated. I guess I should have ordered a barebones kit. Specifically I think I’m looking at the thermal protection and denounce circuitry.

 

[wbward]

Switch Debounce II ( Regulator Version )

Parts used :

1x LM1117-05 , Voltage Regulator I.C. / SOT-223
2x 10μF , Tantalum capacitors / SMD C6032
1x MAX 6816 EUS+T , Mech. Switch Debounce I.C. / SOT-143

*****

Shop parts :

For 5x pcs switch debounce modules ( price for components only ) : $10 ( $2 per module )

https://www.ebay.com/itm/5X-KABA-MA...530415?hash=item2ab5c9d76f:g:6RQAAOSwb4VbnzWH

https://www.ebay.com/itm/20PCS-AMS1117-LM1117-5V-1A-SOT-223-Voltage-Regulator-NEW/323172207859?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

https://www.ebay.com/itm/10PCS-NEW-10UF-35V-C6032-Type-C-Tantalum-Capacitor-SMD-C-6032-Chip-CA-NEW/142314019809?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

*****

Schematics / PCB :





( dimensions given in mm )




DipTrace PCB file :

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1LvSGjeH2KnRp-PoOwfOnZ7bNr2vX0xPO​

Can these pub’s be purchased or ordered somewhere?

 

[hazziqueeee]

Hello @stardustsailor,

I am currently building one based on your first design. I have a question. So my enclosure is an aluminium box which is 150x98x69. Pretty small I know but I want it as small as possible. Initial trials shows that everything can fit within that enclosure. I was wondering would there be any issue with heating? I'm not keen on drilling fins along the side of the enclosure. Wanted it totally sealed. What do you think?

Also, I was thinking of gluing all components within the box. I am a newbie in electronics, so I wanted to know would it be a problem if the solder joints/pads/any conductive material be in contact with aluminium. I'm a bit scared of this. Do you think I should insulate the inside with maybe a plastic sheet?

Thanks for this post and I would appreciate some help! Have a good day!

 

[TomTomazack]

Thank you for the time you've dedicated! I'm an electrician with some basic understanding of electronics and some soldering skills and such, but this is next level stuff. You remind me of my old electronic teacher back in high school. Same kind of brilliant mind with the drive to teach others in a passionate way, really inspiring.

The last one you posted with the wooden box is the closest I will ever get to building such a unit, and I will probably attempt to do so with a few modifications. I have the induction module laying here ready for a project, and I am tempted to run it from my 12V computer PSU output. Seems most economic and fastest to build.

 

[DirtyD]

Yes ,it's an evolving project .
Actually I've plenty of IH parts laying around my house ,
but yes I'm only modifying the prototype.

If eventually I will start making them for selling ,
price is going to be less than 100 € ( IH device + PDA PSU 12 VDC / 10 A ) ,
without shipping fees.

This texture was done with a diamond bit and a Dremel
and it's actually very easy to do but also a very time-consuming procedure .

Cheers.

Would love to grab one when available! Cheers! D.

 

[BirdFisher]

Hi guys ; long time reader here but now I have a burning question :

I built several induction heaters based on the popular ZVS module available everywhere.

They all work fine with a 20mm coil diameter.

But the performance improve drastically with a 12mm coil diameter ; The problem is that the modules fail, but in a very peculiar way : When activated, 4 times out of 5, everything is OK, the control LED shines brightly, and the vapcap clicks quickly ; But 1 time out of 5, the LED seems to flicker very rapidly and faintly, and if the current is maintained, just as no heat is produced by the coil, one of the two MOSFET burns.

If, at that time (right when I see the LED flicker) the current is stopped, everything is fine, just press the switch again, and it works.

Note that I'm using heavy gauge wires and switches, just to eliminate those as a potential point of failure. I'm using 12V / 5A PSUs.

I tried shortening the coil wire to reduce the number of turns, but the problem persists.

Note that I have a Pipes Portside Mini, going steady and strong, that seem to use the same type of module, for the same type of performance, without any failure so far in more than a year, so it is possible!

How can I solve this problem, or turn around it?

Is it just bad luck, and I bought faulty modules? Are there brands and stuff, that I could rely on?
How can I at least make the ZVS module fail safely, and not destroy itself?

Thank you very much for your help, I'm really stuck here

 

[Abysmal Vapor]

Hi guys ; long time reader but now I have a burning question :

I built several induction heaters based on the popular ZVS module available everywhere.

They all work fine with a 20mm coil diameter.

But the performance improve drastically with a 12mm coil diameter ; The problem is that the modules fail, but in a very peculiar way : When activated, 4 times out of 5, everything is OK, the control LED shines brightly, and the heated element gets to the desired temperature (around 220C) very rapidly. But 1 time out of 5, the LED seems to flicker very rapidly and faintly, and if the current is maintained, just as no heat is produced by the coil, one of the two MOSFET burns.

If, at that time (right when I see the LED flicker) the current is stopped, everything is fine, just press the switch again, and it works.

Note that I'm using heavy gauge wires and switches, just to eliminate those as a potential point of failure. I'm using 12V / 5A PSUs.

I tried shortening the coil wire to reduce the number of turns, but the problem persists. Flickering led means undervoltage,which is what fries the boards.

Note that I have a Pipes Portside Mini, going steady and strong, that seem to use the same type of module, for the same type of performance, without any failure so far in more than a year, so it is possible!

How can I solve this problem, or turn around it?

Is it just bad luck, and I bought faulty modules? Are there brands and stuff, that I could rely on?
How can I at least make the ZVS module fail safely, and not destroy itself?

Thank you very much for your help, I'm really stuck here

You need more power. Those PSU rarely output their optimum unless they are underrated. I am no expert. Flickering led means undervoltage, which is what fries the eggs.

 

[BirdFisher]

Thanks a lot for your help, @Abysmal Vapor ; You mean that when it fails, it is because at that very time, the PSU did not provide the required amperage, and that, the times when it worked, it did its job?

Hm. Interesting, so the modules would not be faulty... That would actually be good news BTW I checked for the discrepancies pointed by @stardustsailor at the start of this thread (thx Man) my DZ1 diodes look fine, but I can't say for VD1, the chip is completely unmarked

So. I happen to have a new 12V 6A (Salcar) PSU that I did not dare to test (you have to admit it's kind of counter-intuitive that I have to apply more power to not fry the MOSFETs) I'm gonna run some tests and report back here.

Again, thank a bunch.

 

[BirdFisher]

OK, so that was the answer. Dude, thank you ve-ry-much for taking a wild guess to a probably poorly asked noob question. It works now, I mean when it doesn't, the MOSFET doesn't catch fire, the whole module just does not start.

Man, you really got me out of a ditch there, you have no idea.

After that it's just a (very) delicate step-by-step search for the right (vapcap) position within the coil : Too shallow, it clicks too fast and poor vapor, and too deep, too much power is drawn and the module simply doesn't start.

For now, the best results have been with a shorter coil, that is I removed around 18cm of wire, making for 9 turns around the 12mm glass tube. It runs surprisingly cool, too.

Is there data out there about that, the length of the coil wire, the number of turns, the vertical position of the load, or should I just keep experimenting? As long as I don't fry any component, this is pretty fun

The bad news is that now I have to decommission all those gorgeous, rugged and waterproof 12V5A PSUs that I got dirt cheap at a closing swimming pool store no way to boost them somehow? Oh, well.

 

[Abysmal Vapor]

Glad you figured it out. Once again i'd repeat i am no expert so take any advice from me with grain of salt ... I was told by SDS that one way you can fry your IH is when you unplug the power supply ,but there is still remaining power in it ,which starts to drop,and if you power the system it will get fried by the undervoltage,i dont know why.
ALso this is probably vastly unsafe advice and you might wanna look online,but i have experimented with winding together the 2 plus wires wires and 2 minus together in series with two identical 12v 2a psu and managed to power a 36w system without any problem ... It doesnt make it 24v ,it i it just adds more amperage,you can recheck with ohm law.