VapCap DIY Induction Heating : Bits 'n' pieces

[PKOK]

Well we probably got another 4-6 weeks waiting for parts. It will take me that long to figure out what you just said.

 

[TommyDee]

I said this needs a maker

That reminds me, need more fet switches...

 

[PKOK]

Have you noticed they seem to be putting out a wider selection of parts for these heaters and better especially the Mosfet Trigger Switches, the price is higher but may be worth it The fets on them are of
a much better quality.
You may want to run that pic over on Reddit, it generate some interest here. Ok TD in 3 words or less
what is the black rectangle under your thumb?
I've 3 new boards all different makers and the board themselves aren't identical cosmetically. Two of them look very well made.
I'm waiting on enclosure, trays, connectors. I still haven't ordered the activation switch, I do like those Halo switches they are a bit long but then, It'll fit in that brick of an enclosure I'm sure.
What software do you model in for those printers? That came out really nice for real time vape. I look like I'm knocking myself in the head with a black brick when I use mine that way.

 

[TommyDee]

18650 EVVA protected 18650. Sorry should have rolled up the label. I like these cells.

This was done in Pro|Engineer. I took a picture of The Runt as an underlay and that helped dial in an outline. The printers will take a facet file as input. They have to go through a CNC process known as slicers. I don't have many options for my slicer so I find myself designing to optimized printer settings, things like wall thickness at 1.8mm is strongest. Bad habit but works on my end.

You will definitely have plenty of space for any switch you want.

 

[TommyDee]

Okay, my first video - no audio.

I WANT ONE!

...for your reddit crowd
​

BTW; It weighs in at 8 oz

 

[PKOK]

Mine is acting up, when I insert the VapCap it shuts down. I've read this with others but don't recall a solution.
Nicely done on the video!

 

[TommyDee]

Over current. Look for a connection problem on the input side that may be failing at around 6 amps but function at under 2 amps.

When first turned on, mine reset. Didn't know what was going on but considered the capacitor charging fully. Only did this the one time on each IH I have.

 

[PKOK]

TD the only on input to fail would be the mosfet trigger right?

 

[TommyDee]

Power supply - wires - connectors - FET switch. You can measure voltage across each of these elements to see where the voltage loss is greatest. Basically measure across the same lead on both sides of the device. For instance; to check a physical switch, just measure voltage across the contacts when the switch is activated. This should read less that 0.5v. Something is dropping 6 volts or more when you insert the VC. If you measure across the input and the output of the FET switch, this will tell you if this is where the disconnect comes from [literally]. My odds are on your power supply. Just a guess.

 

[PKOK]

I'm bit too medicated right now, this legal flower is something I'm thinking the fet switch or loose connection as you said. The power supply is a brick https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TUMDWG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[TommyDee]

Yea, that supports my expectations. There is no headroom at 6 amps. And the behavior you describe fits a over-current fold-back behavior. Bricks are vulnerable like normal power supplies. Could be wrong. You'll like cells better.

 

[PKOK]

Well crap, means I'm out of a heater for awhile. I hate torches. What size brick do you suggest?
Quite a few are running these on 5amp, I know a lot of those are failing, yea

 

[TommyDee]

3S 18650 on a leash.

Pipes makes good sense recommending 8 amp supplies. 25% margin on average current draw on these.

 

[PKOK]

Cut cord and wire to a pack? I'm still waiting on the trays. I can get a brick in two or three days. How about a 12V 8A https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0111A8YG...9Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
there is a 12v 10A 120w on the same page could one of these hold up?

 

[TommyDee]

I don't see why not.

 

[PKOK]

Well it's a two dollar difference between the 12V 8A 96 watt and the 12v 10A 120 watt would the
latter afford more protection?

 

[TommyDee]

Yes.

 

[PKOK]

Awful chatty tonight TD look at the protections on this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MXXXBV8/ref=psdc_10967101_t1_B00Z9X4GLW may not be much different from the last but reads a bit more versatile

 

[TommyDee]

These are all the same thing. They fail when they get hot. That is why I like margin. I do open frame supplies so I can manage the wire coming from it. WHat do you suppose the wire gauge is to that plug? Not that it matters much to the supply but the output at the IH will be about 10.5-11v. Bricks are convenient but nowhere near efficient at delivering the rated output. I might be stretching it to hope it is 20 awg.

Don't get me wrong, I do a lot of 5.5 x 2.1 connectivity. Some of the wire gauges they use is staggeringly undersized. The losses are only extra insurance. No one would actually push 12V at 10A through that cord without serious losses and I suspect some heating of that 12V cord.

https://www.amazon.com/LEDMO-Switching-Converter-Adapter-Transformer/dp/B01E6RMASC/ref=sr_1_1_sspa

 

[PKOK]

Ok I'm back in full focus. Yea I'd looked at those TD but for a desktop seems a bit messy (not that anyone would notice in my mancave). Anyway the 10 & 8amp under the "ALITOVE" brand claim 18g copper for the cord and a 24mo exchange and I'll never go much over 6amp right.

I just put a meter to the old bricks cord and it's measuring 12.8v ? Wouldn't be dead? I know stupid questions!

Just watched your video again on utube, left you a little comment Anyways I could do a 2 cell
I've got lots of 2 pack trays. So your running at 7.4v?

 

[TommyDee]

Yes, the supply is putting out the right voltage without a load. But what if you put a 6 amp load on it? That you can do by measuring the voltage input at the IH PCB. Read the voltage without the VC inserted and then with the VC inserted. Did the voltage suddenly drop or remain the same? If it dropped it is the power supply, if it remained the same, it is the IH.

Heck, I might have to get one of those bricks. 18 gauge is a nice gauge for maintaining flexibility.

 

[PKOK]

Well I put it back together and it's working fine! Afraid to take apart, but it dropped from 12.9 to 11.3
That's fine right? A lot on reddit run this on 5amp block. Must be a wire....

So you're running that rig at 7.4v ? I have a few 2cell trays, ah but no 2.5mm male plugs
and I can't remember if I have those on order #@!crap

 

[TommyDee]

11.3v is a good delivery.

Yea, poor connections can do weird things.

Current limiting the IH, rather, power starving an IH is a way to manage output. It is hard on the power supply though. I'm pulling 5 amps with just 2 cells so the voltage drop is significant from those 5A sources.

 

[PKOK]

Well that's what I ordered the 6amp as that was the reddit fix months ago. I've never noticed it warm
but I'll keep an eye on it. I edited the post above you.....your rig at 7.4v?

oops I need to learn to read

 

[TommyDee]

Yes, 8.4v on the peak. About 10 seconds to the first click. Charge is good for several days. Replace cells for charge. No voltage indicators. Heating will lag when cells get too low, and the protection circuit will kick in if you continue to ignore the cells. I'm really happy with this solution.

Not bad for a $30 solution all in.


Crap, another brain fart ...

Why not plug an IH into a standard battery pack!
I wonder where these things limit current. It may require the 18V version with an inverter.
So many possibilities