Underdog Log Vapes

arb

Semi shaved ape
looking for one them as we speak, goroo 38 heavy looks decent! good for Da Couch.
last night had a few nice rips on the alpha, very smooth. :spliff::cheers:
Kind of small for my tastes but very well made.
The larger 44mm single perc is much larger but still excellent for kicking back and having at it.
I think I am settling on the 50\80 home defense tube as my top dog for the Alpha.🤔
 

arb

Semi shaved ape
@arb show and tell your collection please,
I know you favor that HD for the Alpha.. your a beast man!
I gotta do some shit and I will try and get a current line up pic.
006.jpg



We have added 3 more since this pic.
😥
 

CurryLeafTreehugger

Well-Known Member
So most of my draws are between 4 and 8 seconds. Most are finished on the first inbreath. Seems fast to me, I normally try to draw it out longer but without an airlock on the Alpha stem, its just not directed enough. Larger stems with deeper herb require more draws and stirring. I normally stir at least once anyway just to be sure (because yes, I AM that cheap, use it or lose it).

Too much weed for me lately, LOL! I still haven't got a picture of a hot spot in the large Alpha glass direct draw stem. I have to remember NOT to use the airlock, and I have to remember to double check the picture on my PC to make sure you can actually see it before I dump the ABV.

I dug up my mineral oil and mixed some in to one of the beeswax tins that came with my dogs. Its softer now, I prefer it that way because it is easier to apply. I'm also rather fond of mineral oil as a wood treatment for wooden tools. Like my tofu press and misc other wooden kitchen implements, and all my wooden flutes. I slathered mineral oil on my Hawaiian Koa which has been looking dry and I swear it soaked completely in in a couple of hours. So I recoated it and the 2nd coat is taking longer but is also noticeably soaking in. Although the 2nd coat is taking longer, I expect to be able to buff it out in an hour or two. I plan to coat it again until it takes at least 24 hours for the last coat to soak in, then I'll coat it with the beeswax blend.

I also treated (with mineral oil) both my old air core which is now a stem caddy and my SC2, which hasn't seen action since I got my Alpha LOL! The air core hasn't been treated since I last used it several years ago. I had neglected the SC2 and was having trouble evening out the finish as it had, over time, absorbed considerably more of the beeswax on the upper part than the lower because the lower part doesn't heat up at all - so it soaked in better up top where it was warm and there was a noticeable color change. Just using the beeswax improved that but did not solve the problem. The mineral oil has already almost totally evened the color out - I did recoat the bottom because it was soaking in faster on the drier lower part than the upper part. Wish I'd taken a before picture LOL!

I really need to get to Home Despot and get some PVC stuff to make a new flute-bath, since I lost my old one. I cap off one end, pour in mineral oil, and drop a flute in to soak. I use a screw-on cap on the upper end and stand it on end in a flower vase. They are way past due for an oil bath. Like by years. Desert. Le sukz.
 

arb

Semi shaved ape
So most of my draws are between 4 and 8 seconds. Most are finished on the first inbreath. Seems fast to me, I normally try to draw it out longer but without an airlock on the Alpha stem, its just not directed enough. Larger stems with deeper herb require more draws and stirring. I normally stir at least once anyway just to be sure (because yes, I AM that cheap, use it or lose it).

Too much weed for me lately, LOL! I still haven't got a picture of a hot spot in the large Alpha glass direct draw stem. I have to remember NOT to use the airlock, and I have to remember to double check the picture on my PC to make sure you can actually see it before I dump the ABV.

I dug up my mineral oil and mixed some in to one of the beeswax tins that came with my dogs. Its softer now, I prefer it that way because it is easier to apply. I'm also rather fond of mineral oil as a wood treatment for wooden tools. Like my tofu press and misc other wooden kitchen implements, and all my wooden flutes. I slathered mineral oil on my Hawaiian Koa which has been looking dry and I swear it soaked completely in in a couple of hours. So I recoated it and the 2nd coat is taking longer but is also noticeably soaking in. Although the 2nd coat is taking longer, I expect to be able to buff it out in an hour or two. I plan to coat it again until it takes at least 24 hours for the last coat to soak in, then I'll coat it with the beeswax blend.

I also treated (with mineral oil) both my old air core which is now a stem caddy and my SC2, which hasn't seen action since I got my Alpha LOL! The air core hasn't been treated since I last used it several years ago. I had neglected the SC2 and was having trouble evening out the finish as it had, over time, absorbed considerably more of the beeswax on the upper part than the lower because the lower part doesn't heat up at all - so it soaked in better up top where it was warm and there was a noticeable color change. Just using the beeswax improved that but did not solve the problem. The mineral oil has already almost totally evened the color out - I did recoat the bottom because it was soaking in faster on the drier lower part than the upper part. Wish I'd taken a before picture LOL!

I really need to get to Home Despot and get some PVC stuff to make a new flute-bath, since I lost my old one. I cap off one end, pour in mineral oil, and drop a flute in to soak. I use a screw-on cap on the upper end and stand it on end in a flower vase. They are way past due for an oil bath. Like by years. Desert. Le sukz.
I seem to be at a very consistent 15 second hit across water pieces.
005.jpg


006.jpg


The single perc welded 44mm beaker and the one I grab the most the 50\80 home defense tube.
Thats all I gots @BrianTL any questions or measurements holler.
 

BrianTL

Westchester, NY
I seem to be at a very consistent 15 second hit across water pieces.
005.jpg


006.jpg


The single perc welded 44mm beaker and the one I grab the most the 50\80 home defense tube.
Thats all I gots @BrianTL any questions or measurements holler.

You're not kidding you do have a collection lol. Everything looks clean and shiny too!

I definitely want one, 95% of its use will be the Alpha probably, but I just can't make up my mind I've been stuck between these two. Although now you have me considering a beaker.

Honestly that 50/80 seems awesome but idk if I'm ready for that yet :lol:


 

Philabrookla

@philabrookla
You're not kidding you do have a collection lol. Everything looks clean and shiny too!

I definitely want one, 95% of its use will be the Alpha probably, but I just can't make up my mind I've been stuck between these two. Although now you have me considering a beaker.

Honestly that 50/80 seems awesome but idk if I'm ready for that yet :lol:


Just speaking from experience, I couldn't get properly ripped with my e-nano until I tried it on a very large bong. That 15 second draw that arb is taking bout is difficult on a smaller piece (for me at least) because the vapor is hitting your throat 5 seconds in. Something about filling a big tube, zapping the bowl pack, and quickly clearing. Whole pack goes straight to the dome.
 

arb

Semi shaved ape
Just speaking from experience, I couldn't get properly ripped with my e-nano until I tried it on a very large bong. That 15 second draw that arb is taking bout is difficult on a smaller piece (for me at least) because the vapor is hitting your throat 5 seconds in. Something about filling a big tube, zapping the bowl pack, and quickly clearing. Whole pack goes straight to the dome.
I bring the vapor to my lips exhale then begin the actual hit.
Works better for me when I inhale the vapor deeply.
👍
 

BrianTL

Westchester, NY
Just speaking from experience, I couldn't get properly ripped with my e-nano until I tried it on a very large bong. That 15 second draw that arb is taking bout is difficult on a smaller piece (for me at least) because the vapor is hitting your throat 5 seconds in. Something about filling a big tube, zapping the bowl pack, and quickly clearing. Whole pack goes straight to the dome.

That's a good point. I've basically been on a strict diet of Alpha direct-draw hits lately, so I guess I am kind of used to it. Been working on making my draws as long as possible, not always easy! Maybe I'll get a bubbler and a big bong hmm

I bring the vapor to my lips exhale then begin the actual hit.
Works better for me when I inhale the vapor deeply.
👍

I could see how that would be a monster hit :rockon:
 

CurryLeafTreehugger

Well-Known Member
I bought a bong once. It turned out to be a piece of crap - not surprising given that it was being sold by someone belonging to a religion that thinks we are all decadent evil drug abusers, regardless of whether or not we are "medical". The guy in the shop didn't know anything at all about his stock (why would he, he was a godly person who doesn't do ebilebildrugs). Some random teenager - and I don't mean 19, I mean he CLAIMED 16 and I bet he was 15 - was trying to help me.

I've not tried again since. Local glass is stupid expensive, I still don't know anything about bongs, and I can't get Chinese glass because it comes in the mail and I can't get mail. I need it to come to my door. And I'd probably buy the wrong thing anyway. Plus I don't know how to use it.

My Hawaiian Koa is on coating 3 of the mineral oil. She is still drinking it up. I don't know why, must be something about Koa. It has not been neglected, its barely been used, and none of my other vape bodies - not even the old air core body (now a stem caddy) that's been languishing unused in the dry desert air here for like 3 or 4 years - are this thirsty. I think I'll be mineral-oiling it for some time yet, then I'll hit it with the beeswax mix. My SC2 was Tiger Vaple, my air core was Wild Vaple, I think the Alpha may be Wild Vaple as well. None of the 3 maple bodies are particularly dried out, not even the air core. The Alpha, in fact, what ever sort of Vaple she is, still feels satiny-smooth (silk is too insubstantial for the way this feels in my hand).

But that beautiful beautiful Koa has a drinking problem LOL!

I've coated the SC2 Tiger Vaple, that showed a color change from top to bottom due to the beeswax mix soaking in more up top where the body heats up, its on its 2nd coat now (takes a lot longer for it to soak in, obviously its is either not as dry or not as demanding as the Koa) and the color change is much more muted. Another couple coats and *I* may not be able to tell it was ever unbalanced. The old air core body that is now a stem caddy is soaking the oil up very evenly but then when it was in use the body heated up more evenly with those original air cores than they do now, so I don't think it ever got out of balance due to that issue. It's only had one coat so far, and its the one body that has gone without maintenance the longest. I guess I did a better job with it than its successor.

I've wiped small amounts of mineral oil on the Alpha body but I haven't made a concerted effort there, since it is IN USE pretty much 24/7 at the moment. The only place that seemed like it needed some extra help was the inside wall around the lip down to where the heater core ring is. I've swiped a fair amount of mineral oil in just on those spots and it has soaked that up well and the wood feels much better there.

I think I'll do another coat on the Koa, #4. When that has largely soaked in (whenever that is), I'll buff off any excess oil (but no waxing yet) and use it for a couple of days - still trying to learn to love it in practice and not just for its lovely lovely looks. I'll do a coat of mineral oil on the Alpha then and we'll see how thirsty it is. I'm guessing "not very". But I would like to give it at least one coat of the mineral oil all over before I do another waxing.

I am actually starting to think about maybe using the Koa permanently to feed a bong. That I can't afford to buy locally, can't get in the mail, don't know how to select, and no idea how to use it properly either LOL!
 
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underdog

shade-tree vapor engineer
Manufacturer
I bought a bong once. It turned out to be a piece of crap - not surprising given that it was being sold by someone belonging to a religion that thinks we are all decadent evil drug abusers, regardless of whether or not we are "medical". The guy in the shop didn't know anything at all about his stock (why would he, he was a godly person who doesn't do ebilebildrugs). Some random teenager - and I don't mean 19, I mean he CLAIMED 16 and I bet he was 15 - was trying to help me.

I've not tried again since. Local glass is stupid expensive, I still don't know anything about bongs, and I can't get Chinese glass because it comes in the mail and I can't get mail. I need it to come to my door. And I'd probably buy the wrong thing anyway. Plus I don't know how to use it.

My Hawaiian Koa is on coating 3 of the mineral oil. She is still drinking it up. I don't know why, must be something about Koa. It has not been neglected, its barely been used, and none of my other vape bodies - not even the old air core body (now a stem caddy) that's been languishing unused in the dry desert air here for like 3 or 4 years - are this thirsty. I think I'll be mineral-oiling it for some time yet, then I'll hit it with the beeswax mix. My SC2 was Tiger Vaple, my air core was Wild Vaple, I think the Alpha may be Wild Vaple as well. None of the 3 maple bodies are particularly dried out, not even the air core. The Alpha, in fact, what ever sort of Vaple she is, still feels satiny-smooth (silk is too insubstantial for the way this feels in my hand).

But that beautiful beautiful Koa has a drinking problem LOL!

I've coated the SC2 Tiger Vaple, that showed a color change from top to bottom due to the beeswax mix soaking in more up top where the body heats up, its on its 2nd coat now (takes a lot longer for it to soak in, obviously its is either not as dry or not as demanding as the Koa) and the color change is much more muted. Another couple coats and *I* may not be able to tell it was ever unbalanced. The old air core body that is now a stem caddy is soaking the oil up very evenly but then when it was in use the body heated up more evenly with those original air cores than they do now, so I don't think it ever got out of balance due to that issue. It's only had one coat so far, and its the one body that has gone without maintenance the longest. I guess I did a better job with it than its successor.

I've wiped small amounts of mineral oil on the Alpha body but I haven't made a concerted effort there, since it is IN USE pretty much 24/7 at the moment. The only place that seemed like it needed some extra help was the inside wall around the lip down to where the heater core ring is. I've swiped a fair amount of mineral oil in just on those spots and it has soaked that up well and the wood feels much better there.

I think I'll do another coat on the Koa, #4. When that has largely soaked in (whenever that is), I'll buff off any excess oil (but no waxing yet) and use it for a couple of days - still trying to learn to love it in practice and not just for its lovely lovely looks. I'll do a coat of mineral oil on the Alpha then and we'll see how thirsty it is. I'm guessing "not very". But I would like to give it at least one coat of the mineral oil all over before I do another waxing.

I am actually starting to think about maybe using the Koa permanently to feed a bong. That I can't afford to buy locally, can't get in the mail, don't know how to select, and no idea how to use it properly either LOL!

The Koa is a more open grained wood than the others and will soak up a lot more oil because of it. :science:

If need be you can always order some glass, have it delivered here and then have us forward it to you via UPS. For a small fee of course. :evil::freak:
 

CurryLeafTreehugger

Well-Known Member
I can just send him a decent china piece to try out first.
👴

Uh, huh, you do realize that you would then be taking on the monumental task of making me understand its use? Hmmmm?

🙀


I found one of my old UD receipt(so long ago!!) and listing, hope it's having a good time with my buddy from school...

Well we hope so as well! Did you replace it with another UD? Or are you looking ....
 

CurryLeafTreehugger

Well-Known Member
I have replaced it with the ones I posted a few pics back! I got another walnut twig(SC2 I think?) about 3 years ago and I just got an Alpha Core :evil:
o1uphsbd2dy61.jpg

I wasn't sure and I get mixed up if I go delving through past posts sometimes (then I end up replying to the wrong people who then wonder what I am on about). Melty brain syndrome *sigh* le sukz. All that glass rather took up a lot of my limited attention.

On my way to get my 2nd vaccination shot. Assuming I can stay awake that long. All that stem testing is catching up with me ... I'm guessing breaking out my new sake warmer last night didn't improve matters any.
 
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CurryLeafTreehugger

Well-Known Member
OK So arb is loaning me a bong !!!! like this:


IMG-20181015-093642-hdr.jpg


And here is what I have to use with it:

Corked GonG.jpg ... Corked GonG Parts.jpg

So this cork GonG is using a cork connector from Alan @HI, with the regular mouthpiece removed and the GonG stuck in there instead. The tip is around 2" or a bit less, then there is a 1/2" flat screen in there, then the GonG flat end butts up against the tip and holds the screen in place, and the cork connector holds everything together.

This totally solves my not-able-to-put-the-flat-side-up-in-the-gong thing. Flat screens are easier to use, and don't clog up (at all so far in those stems where I have been able to use them). And all my fine screens (which I need so I can use the flour-shake) are 1/2" flat screens so ... I am REALLY glad I got that corked stem!

Then arb is going to teach me how to blow clouds, over the internet. Yeah!
 

MikeRotchHertz

Well-Known Member
This beauty arrived today:
underdog6.jpg

underdog7.jpg

underdog8.jpg

Many thanks to my good buddy @MikeRotchHertz for the assist in picking this up.

I really loved the redwood burl and the warp zone alphas, but this may have just won best in show from the last drop.

If anyone has ever wondered how a micro dog compares to a prototype alpha and how that compares to "big wang" well here you go

 

CurryLeafTreehugger

Well-Known Member
So by last night coating #3 of the mineral oil was absorbed into the Koa SC3+. I waited until this morning to apply another coat. I'll keep serving up the mineral oil for a few days more, before trying to put her back into service for a few days and see how things are shaping up.

The Koa is a more open grained wood than the others and will soak up a lot more oil because of it. :science:

I'm guessing that is also why she dried out so much more than any of my other dogs, and not even in use on top of it. I noticed she was looking dry but didn't credit that impression at first, it seemed out of proportion. She looks way better already.

My Tiger Vaple (SC2) is looking loads better. There is still a slight color change from top to bottom, I'm guessing because more beeswax soaked in on the heated, upper part of the body than the lower part (Thus slightly darkening the wood). Wax always wears off eventually but the further it soaks into the pores the longer that takes, and without the warming to expedite that process on the lower half of the body, more of the wax stayed at or near the surface where it easily rubs off. But you can see the striping again, whereas it had been somewhat faded prior to the oiling. Now it is actually more visible on the lower part of the body than the upper, I suspect because the wax component of the butter penetrates more into the light areas between the stripes themselves (I'm assuming that the tiger stripes are denser and will take up less of the wax in the butter - so the color difference, over time, is minimized as the lighter wood darkens more over time than the wood that was dark to start with).

I need to mix up some wood butter with a higher mineral oil content for use on the Koa. I did add some mineral oil to the UD butter (not a lot, just enough to soften it at room temp) and I'll use that for everything else. No other vape body that I have seems to need more than that, but the Koa needs a bit more (or at least she does so far, this discrepancy may be less as I apply a few more coats of mineral oil).
 
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