Underdog Log Vapes

Enialis

Well-Known Member
@Enialis

I have the Tekpower TP1502 1.5v-15v 2a power supply. It is used for tattoo machine thingies, except when we use it for powering our Underdogs. That one says HY, but it looks exactly like mine and I think that's about what I paid for it ($35). I don't know what the difference between TP and HY is, couldn't even find it on the manufacturer's website. There is another on Amazon that says TP1502 but it has fire painted on it. Bright yellow with red flames. Don't need that on my coffee table LOL! Plus you pay a premium price for those flames ($50).

Underdog pointed me at the proper cord for it, I don't remember where I got it but it had banana clips for plugging into the VVPS and the right connector on the other end for the vape.

I keep it on my coffee table 24/7, with my Dog Pen sitting on top of it. Currently I am keeping my Alpha plugged into that, and I have my SC3+ plugged into one of the UD VVPS. Both of these devices are a little fiddly getting them set, though I have found that the Tekpower pretty much stays where you set it but the UD VVPS takes a few minutes to settle. So I turn it on, turn it up, and then adjust. I turn it off when not using it so as to save the wood on the SC3+. It's a twig type vape (wood is thinner) and it is so beautiful, I just want it to last forever LOL! Or at least longer than me.

Is the suspected "bad circuit" your whole house? You said something about having to take it to a relative's house to check out the VVPS. I wonder if you could plug it in to a UPS (if you have one) to condition the line a bit? That would be a battery backup UPS. It only draws 2a max, I THINK that would be OK, Underdog would probably know for sure. It would need to be a battery backup as you want to condition the line, not just stop power surges. Unless your power is REALLY REALLY bad, a battery backup should handle the line drops and brownouts. Assuming you have grounded outlets.

I read where you are turning the VVPS up to over 12v, I promise you, no UD ever NEEDS to go that high, but if you aren't getting reliable power out of the wall, that could be reducing the efficiency of your VVPS.

Don't get mad at me, I'm not trying to be "condescending" or anything and I don't know if I've already said this to you before, if I have I have forgotten so forbear please.

I really don't get why some of the folks couldn't get these to work for them, but there has to be some difference in expectations that is going by the wayside. I think at least one issue (in addition to UDs observations) is as @SquirrelMaster said above, GROUP SESSIONS. I don't know who would think a log vape is ever the right tool for group sessions, it is patently not, so if that is what some of those folks were looking for then yes, they were BOUND to be disappointed.

Although - that makes me wonder - is there method to @tom battleboar 's madness? Perhaps he has 17 vaccinated friends who are coming over for a group session? LOL! (JK, I thought he was joking about how many he bought until he posted that picture of his pack)

Personally I'm using even less herb than I used to, since I created Frankenstem the glass one-hitter. And I wasn't using that much before. Yet I am vaping more frequently. Because each load is freaking TINY LOL! If I wanted to, I could load up the alpha glass direct draw stem with the fine screen and my finely ground "shake" and probably kill myself (more or less), but I prefer something slightly less volcanic LOL! But this way I never overshoot and only medicate when I feel like it, and I only "slip over" into stoned-ness when I actually intend to.
Thanks for all of the info i really appreciate it! What kind of cable did you wind up using for that? Is there a DC 2.5mm plug in the back? I'm not able to find any DC cables that would work on the screw posts, nor do I know how that would work without having a ground connection somewhere in there.
I did see some that were ~$45 that were traditional low end bench power supplies but they all had a dedicated DC jack on either the front or the back, so maybe you could clarify how exactly that hooks up if you know the technical details or maybe even a picture of what the screw post to DC jack cable looks? I'm curious as to where the ground is in that connection.

Yes, the suspected "bad circuit" is basically my whole house, I am already running everything through either a conditioned bench supply or UPS because of how much noise there is in the circuit. Since I set all of that up we have had everything but the wiring in the walls and outlets replaced but it hasn't really solved any of the problems with my more sensitive electronics so I'm still looking for a solution.
The issues with the underdog either under or over performing because of fluctuating voltage were on the UPS actually not one of the unconditioned lines.
But yea my power was dangerously, code violatingly bad until very recently most of the wiring and outlets are still from that so I know that this isn't necessarily an issue with the underdog per se.
I've run it as low as 11.5v but I can't achieve full extraction at that temperature without having to turn back up to 12.3v to get the last two hits. Its not like it doesn't work at 12v either, it's just hard to dial in specific temps on the stock vvps so I leave it at 12.3v.

The in line vvps I saw had double digits after the decimal point for better accuracy but they all seem low quality and like they might suffer the same issues as the stock one. The bench supplies I saw though were twice the size of the one you linked and I would like something smaller for my UD.
I actually need another bench supply anyway so I don't mind getting something more expensive even if its overkill, especially if it let's me use multiple devices at once, but the UD is my small out of the way vape for my workbench because my other vapes take up to much space so keeping the footprint small and being able to leave it plugged in while working are very important.

Any thoughts? I don't want to start ranting out loud about potential options if you think you know of a better solution. The footprint of the vvps you linked has the same sized footprint as a full featured vvps so if the in-line vvps like the default aren't a good option I would probably want to get something that was multipurpose if its going to live on my electronics bench.
 
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underdog

shade-tree vapor engineer
Manufacturer
Thanks for all of the info i really appreciate it! What kind of cable did you wind up using for that? Is there a DC 2.5mm plug in the back? I'm not able to find any DC cables that would work on the screw posts, nor do I know how that would work without having a ground connection somewhere in there.
I did see some that were ~$45 that were traditional low end bench power supplies but they all had a dedicated DC jack on either the front or the back, so maybe you could clarify how exactly that hooks up if you know the technical details or maybe even a picture of what the screw post to DC jack cable looks? I'm curious as to where the ground is in that connection.

Yes, the suspected "bad circuit" is basically my whole house, I am already running everything through either a conditioned bench supply or UPS because of how much noise there is in the circuit. Since I set all of that up we have had everything but the wiring in the walls and outlets replaced but it hasn't really solved any of the problems with my more sensitive electronics so I'm still looking for a solution.
The issues with the underdog either under or over performing because of fluctuating voltage were on the UPS actually not one of the unconditioned lines.
But yea my power was dangerously, code violatingly bad until very recently most of the wiring and outlets are still from that so I know that this isn't necessarily an issue with the underdog per se.
I've run it as low as 11.5v but I can't achieve full extraction at that temperature without having to turn back up to 12.3v to get the last two hits. Its not like it doesn't work at 12v either, it's just hard to dial in specific temps on the stock vvps so I leave it at 12.3v.

The in line vvps I saw had double digits after the decimal point for better accuracy but they all seem low quality and like they might suffer the same issues as the stock one. The bench supplies I saw though were twice the size of the one you linked and I would like something smaller for my UD.
I actually need another bench supply anyway so I don't mind getting something more expensive even if its overkill, especially if it let's me use multiple devices at once, but the UD is my small out of the way vape for my workbench because my other vapes take up to much space so keeping the footprint small and being able to leave it plugged in while working are very important.

Any thoughts? I don't want to start ranting out loud about potential options if you think you know of a better solution. The footprint of the vvps you linked has the same sized footprint as a full featured vvps so if the in-line vvps like the default aren't a good option I would probably want to get something that was multipurpose if its going to live on my electronics bench.

To use a lab style supply with screw posts you can just use 2.1mm (2.5 will work but the vapes are 2.1) cords with stripped ends to fasten directly to the posts. You could also cut down existing cords with some wire strippers. They're all simple 2 conductor wires, no ground or anything you can mess up.. and for the UD itself polarity doesn't matter so no concern there either.

You can find them in straight or 90°, here's an example: https://smile.amazon.com/Fancasee-Replacement-Degree-Pigtail-Supply/dp/B0851CBH87
 

Enialis

Well-Known Member
To use a lab style supply with screw posts you can just use 2.1mm (2.5 will work but the vapes are 2.1) cords with stripped ends to fasten directly to the posts. You could also cut down existing cords with some wire strippers. They're all simple 2 conductor wires, no ground or anything you can mess up.. and for the UD itself polarity doesn't matter so no concern there either.

You can find them in straight or 90°, here's an example: https://smile.amazon.com/Fancasee-Replacement-Degree-Pigtail-Supply/dp/B0851CBH87
Would you recommend something like that over an in-line power supply similar to the stock one? I'm assuming they wouldn't be any better and just have different specs? If I could find one like you two are talking about that had a smaller footprint and a longer cord that would be perfect. Will that cable work with the extension cables that came with my UD?
 

tom battleboar

Active Member
Yo i just use my old netgear router power connector size 2.1mm. Amps 1.0 dc But the downside is low temperature ramp up. And extreme tendency to cause Underdog Aroma log to exhaust smoke on its own. Lol 😆 I bet the inside is like just charred wood. I smell it even using the car jack plug I found in my house that is 2.1mm. Which works well in the car for random pals..
Car Adapter 12v DC 2.1mm
 
tom battleboar,
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CurryLeafTreehugger

Well-Known Member
@Enialis

I am not sure getting a different VVPS will help if your power in the house is screwed up. Is there any way you could run one good known circuit from the breaker box? If its a workshop it doesn't have to be run through the walls, you could run it in conduit (assuming the circuit box is easily accessible to the area). Personally I hate electrical wiring in walls. It is dead easy to work on wiring in conduit. And no catching fire behind the dry wall where nobody notices LOL!

I rented a house once where I couldn't plug a crockpot in anywhere but the living room because there was only one modern circuit in the entire house (this was in 2008 so not in distant prehistory). This was 20's era wiring - I mean 1920s. There were fuses wired inline. It was a rats nest and illegal. I'm pretty sure there was no certificate of occupancy which certainly went a long way toward getting me out of the lease LOL!
 

underdog

shade-tree vapor engineer
Manufacturer
Would you recommend something like that over an in-line power supply similar to the stock one? I'm assuming they wouldn't be any better and just have different specs? If I could find one like you two are talking about that had a smaller footprint and a longer cord that would be perfect. Will that cable work with the extension cables that came with my UD?

From what I can see it doesn't appear you're having any electrical issues with the existing power supply so I probably wouldn't bother messing around with different ones.

All the in-line style ones are of approximately the same quality which isn't horrible but isn't anywhere near great.. just that of standard commodity goods. Of all the ones I've ever seen none of them have 2 decimals other than when the voltage is below 10v.

If you think you're having a power issue then try it with a different extension or no extension at all as those are more often the culprit than the VVPS unless the VVPS is obviously messed up and not displaying correct voltage or something similar. :2c:

:edited to add: - yes that cable would work with your existing 2.1mm extension cables. :tup:
 

Abysmal Vapor

Saturnine in my mind
Those controllers with Knobs are doomed to start to jump numbers and become bitchier to dial exact numbers,it is just a mechanical degradation . Good things is that are cheap enough to replace,i break two or three an year :D . Anyway if you are willing to give up on the comfort of having a knob. You can try these .
Look for this one 1617907713256.png or this one 1617907751897.png
Here or Here, of course there are better deals,but you have to fish them yourself. Have in mind the Mini DC is just 2amps, but i think it should be enough for an Alpha?
Of course if you are real geek and there are buck boosts that have both knob ,remote and digital but are pricey. Some even hape app monitoring and control . I have eyes on the first one, so probably will be able to report back ;).
1617908645317.png1617908601128.png
 
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Sour Dream

Blue Dream enthusiast
if you are having issues with messed up power coming from your circuits in your house you can get an uninterruptible power supply or uninterruptible power source (UPS). It can protect your devices and if you get a good one that outputs pure sinwave than it should help.
 
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tom battleboar

Active Member
Power problems, I recommend the
AP1000® Pressurized Water Reactor by
Westinghouse Electric Company which sets a new industry standard with the AP1000 power plant. You might need the wire prongs like @underdog was recommending. Just strip the wires and connector them to the transformer converter unit.
 

masonjars

Member
The issues with the underdog either under or over performing because of fluctuating voltage were on the UPS actually not one of the unconditioned lines.
But yea my power was dangerously, code violatingly bad until very recently most of the wiring and outlets are still from that so I know that this isn't necessarily an issue with the underdog per se.
I've run it as low as 11.5v but I can't achieve full extraction at that temperature without having to turn back up to 12.3v to get the last two hits. Its not like it doesn't work at 12v either, it's just hard to dial in specific temps on the stock vvps so I leave it at 12.3v.
Have you considered the possibility it might be technique? If not, possibly the device?

I was having a similar problem with uneven extraction with the alpha dog, trying every combination of screen level, grind consistency, different bud, different amounts of bud, different draw speeds, different voltages, different stems, etc. Also, taking 30-60min breaks between stem packs are required since the heater needs time to heat up in between. I’m sure your adjustment of voltage mid-session to keep up through the end of a stem pack would likely explain your “over performance” if your are hot spotting and/or combusting/scorching.

Only reason I’m bothering with this post is because I believe you are going through a similar experience as me. After many tests, I found the alpha dog heater just wasn’t able to keep up with my lungs, as the end of the first hit into the second (regardless of voltage) starts to produce thinner/wispier clouds, leaving behind a fair amount of green (this might be the “underperformance” you mentioned earlier).

Hope I could be of help, good luck!
 
masonjars,

Enialis

Well-Known Member
From what I can see it doesn't appear you're having any electrical issues with the existing power supply so I probably wouldn't bother messing around with different ones.

All the in-line style ones are of approximately the same quality which isn't horrible but isn't anywhere near great.. just that of standard commodity goods. Of all the ones I've ever seen none of them have 2 decimals other than when the voltage is below 10v.

If you think you're having a power issue then try it with a different extension or no extension at all as those are more often the culprit than the VVPS unless the VVPS is obviously messed up and not displaying correct voltage or something similar. :2c:

:edited to add: - yes that cable would work with your existing 2.1mm extension cables. :tup:
No, no real issues at all per se, just me being overly obsessive about my electronics. To be clear, there's absolutely nothing wrong with my UD or the stock power supply, it works totally as advertised and is completely satisfying.

But as someone who's generally obsessed with their electronics and with the yet to be diagnosed power issues I still want to "upgrade" mostly for the hell of it. Biggest reason is that it's really hard for me personally to dial in anything specific between 11.5v-12.3v without it my shaky hands making it jump all over the place.

Right now I am actually running the UD and my computers off a UPS, but I still get minor voltage fluctuations. Any ideas? I'm trying to do some digging to see if maybe it's just a cheap ups (it was a gift) or if something else I have plugged into it is causing noise. Its got my ud, and enail, and then currently 1 computer, 2 monitors, a nuc, and USB charger for things as needed.

I'm just a hobbyist electronics engineer still trying to go to school for it because of a drastic career and life change so I'm not totally fluent in this stuff but can understand it. I'm kind of at a loss as to how to troubleshoot parts of the wiring in the house but like I said this whole thing is really not an underdog issue besides the selection of power supply lol

Have you considered the possibility it might be technique? If not, possibly the device?

I was having a similar problem with uneven extraction with the alpha dog, trying every combination of screen level, grind consistency, different bud, different amounts of bud, different draw speeds, different voltages, different stems, etc. Also, taking 30-60min breaks between stem packs are required since the heater needs time to heat up in between. I’m sure your adjustment of voltage mid-session to keep up through the end of a stem pack would likely explain your “over performance” if your are hot spotting and/or combusting/scorching.

Only reason I’m bothering with this post is because I believe you are going through a similar experience as me. After many tests, I found the alpha dog heater just wasn’t able to keep up with my lungs, as the end of the first hit into the second (regardless of voltage) starts to produce thinner/wispier clouds, leaving behind a fair amount of green (this might be the “underperformance” you mentioned earlier).

Hope I could be of help, good

No unfortunately is really just me being obsessed about the electronics along with the voltage on the readout visibly fluctuating and the knob being hard to dial in the voltage i want precisely. Its really a side grade for the tech hobbyist in me a normal user would never need one for the reasons I do I don't think.

Hopefully I cleared up that this is just a me issue and not an underdog issue above this edit, but 99% of the time my SC3+ works as expected, and never once have i been able to over power it even with back to back gong packs.

Theres absolutely technique involved but I've been using a cloud evo for years and it seems like all log vapes and herb suspended with a screen or backet style vapes with a stem like airpath are functionally the same so I was able to start ripping clouds with my SC3+ without even looking up how to use it or log vapes.

I have never heard of anyone else having to wait 30 minutes to an hour for the core to recover but I'm also not very familiar with the alphas. If thats the case for most users ill probably pass on the alpha.

I was looking into one to replace my cloud evo but I was under the impression that it would work the same way as my SC3+ and have similar technique is that not the case? Do you have another log vape or other vape your comparing it to?

Like I said I've never been able to over power the SC3+ on repeated use after its had a proper heat soak and I usually am doing back to back gongs and the only time its recovering is when I'm taking the log off the stem, the stem off the pipe, and stirring if its the gong. When I get them ordered and fixed ill use my bigger vapes to make sure I'm getting it all out but so far I think I am.
 

CurryLeafTreehugger

Well-Known Member
@Enialis

I have never even once overpowered ANY of my Underdogs, starting from the EconoDog, then my Wild Vaple (both with the air core), then the Tiger Vaple with SC2 core, now my Alpha and my SC3+

Now I am admittedly a lightweight - But @arb is no lightweight so possibly he will chime in with information for the non-lightweights.

Recently I have been vaping WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY more than usual. I have tested all but 2 of my stems so far plus several Frankenstems. Alpha - still solid as a rock, despite repeated hits in a row testing stems.

I have not used my SC3+ THAT extensively , I only used it once or twice after I got it until yesterday? Day before? Something like that (because Ondine the Alpha is so comfortable and easy to use). But I can't imagine it would be any less capable of keeping up.

I don't know why my Frankenstemmed glass one-hitter works so well. I never had any complaints about the glass direct draw stems on any of my devices, but the glass one-hitter is defintely better for me. Other people use the SS one-hitter stem but I can't use that very easily because I can't handle the screens or see if I'm getting it in there right. Plus I was going to have to make my own screens anyway because I need fine screens to use the "shake" (very finely ground herb, like a coarse flour).

Screens for the glass one-hitter are slightly larger than the SS version, so a little easier for me to handle and of course I can see it in the stem. Making the screens is a pain but at least I don't have to do it very often LOL! It does have a somewhat restricted draw but compared to my SC2 and previous versions, it's still less than that. Just more than a bigger stem.
 

Enialis

Well-Known Member
While I'm thinking off it... does anyone know where I can find a course grjnder for the ud? I think I'm getting a flowerpot and they sell a grinder with an extra fine grind but also one with those magnetic pendent? The magnetic ones looked course

 
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Sour Dream

Blue Dream enthusiast
While I'm thinking off it... does anyone know where I can find a course grjnder for the ud? I think I'm getting a flowerpot and they sell a grinder with an extra fine grind but also one with those magnetic pendent? The magnetic ones looked course

Brilliant cut grinder coarse plate
 

CurryLeafTreehugger

Well-Known Member
Brilliant cut grinder coarse plate
@Enialis

I was planning on going to a coarser grind for the UD, because the crumbs come through the provided screen. However you can drop a 1/2" screen flat on top of the UD provided screens for the Alpha glass direct draw stem (if you put the UD basket screens in flat side up) - but your fine screen needs to be dead flat. I would MAKE the screens but I can't find a fine screen in 1" or larger (for less than a dollar apiece at any rate). I've been tempted to try to hunt up my disc cutter and make my own LOL! But I'm not sure it goes up to a whole inch.

For the regular glass direct draw, you can do the same thing with a 3/8" fine screen (or if you can find 3/4" fine screens, you can make a basket screen for that). There is also a way to balance a screen on the lip of a glass direct draw stem (wouldn't work on the SS tips, they're too thin-walled to support a screen) flat on top held in place with silicone tubing. 3/4" flat for the Alpha DD glass and 1/2" flat for the regular UD glass DD stem.

Not sure what other stems the standard basket screen fit in. Well the SS direct draw uses tiny basket screens, not sure about the hybrid but I think the ID on that is the same as the regular (non-Alpha) glass direct draw.

Since I've found ways to get a fine screen in there (weird ways, but ways that nonetheless work) I've decided I don't need a coarse grinder. With my SC2, there was too much air flow restriction to manage a fine screen with fine herb powder, it would pack and clog almost immedately. Because of that, I never considered using the shake even with a fine screen, but the draw on the Alpha and the SC3/SC3+ is much freer, and it works with a fine screen on the new dogs. I'm good with finer screens for that "shake" now.

But if you want a coarse grinder, the Brilliant Cut Grinder (coarse plate) was my choice for a coarse grinder. There is also the LIft? Lyft? Can't remember how they spell that.
 
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SquirrelMaster

Well-Known Member
While I'm thinking off it... does anyone know where I can find a course grjnder for the ud? I think I'm getting a flowerpot and they sell a grinder with an extra fine grind but also one with those magnetic pendent? The magnetic ones looked course

Grinders for Life - Brilliant Cut Grinder which should be going on sale for 420 very soon. You may want to go with a full set for versatility.
 

BrianTL

Westchester, NY
For what if’s worth, this is pretty ideal and even AVB...I guess there’s a couple green specks if you really look, but I got this done in a hurry last night with the Alpha, not trying to get the perfect hit, but I got home kinda late and wanted to get to bed so I was hurrying.

This was 3 pretty much back to back hits with the nylon direct draw. Naturally darker on the heater side which I think I could mitigate with a slightly different technique but still this hit like a train.

F477-C5-F6-248-E-4771-A625-82-DA6-D6-ECB51.jpg
0-E574218-42-CE-4590-9289-6-AA60073-CD6-E.jpg
 

arb

Semi shaved ape
For what if’s worth, this is pretty ideal and even AVB...I guess there’s a couple green specks if you really look, but I got this done in a hurry last night with the Alpha, not trying to get the perfect hit, but I got home kinda late and wanted to get to bed so I was hurrying.

This was 3 pretty much back to back hits with the nylon direct draw. Naturally darker on the heater side which I think I could mitigate with a slightly different technique but still this hit like a train.

F477-C5-F6-248-E-4771-A625-82-DA6-D6-ECB51.jpg
0-E574218-42-CE-4590-9289-6-AA60073-CD6-E.jpg
I am saving mine today to get a pic.
Looks like yours without the black.
I think there is a large difference in what is considered spent or done.
I am also seeing some pretty big difference in the abv,abv,duff......whatever its called between adapters.
More tunnelling and green edges with the ones that insert into the core and a far more even roast I the ones that go around.
I suspect it is the distances with the outers giving the jet of heat a chance widen over the longer pathway.
 

BrianTL

Westchester, NY
I am saving mine today to get a pic.
Looks like yours without the black.
I think there is a large difference in what is considered spent or done.
I am also seeing some pretty big difference in the abv,abv,duff......whatever its called between adapters.
More tunnelling and green edges with the ones that insert into the core and a far more even roast I the ones that go around.
I suspect it is the distances with the outers giving the jet of heat a chance widen over the longer pathway.

Yeah I'm pretty sure I know what I did to get the black, packed the stem to the brim and put it all the way into the core before I started inhaling. I'm figuring if its packed to the brim I can leave the stem out a bit when my inhale starts, so the face of the flower isn't being hit with such immediate heat. Slow down the heating a bit and less chance to scorch the front. Thats how I look at it anyway... will confirm today lol

That's pretty much where I like to be done with mine, maybe a shade darker occasionally but I've really been having fun with this Alpha. Haven't remotely come close to overpowering the heater yet, as far as I can tell anyway...

Shooting for a proper sit-down testing tomorrow with water. I've got notes & pics of every AVB/stem I've put through this so far, besides one. I'll pay extra attention to the differences between the stems tomorrow
 

FearAndLawyering

Active Member
i got the bocote alpha on the last drop and it’s amazing. there’s a bit of hot spotting but i think that just happens with all convection vapes, nothing a stir won’t help.

amazing performance, pretty much exactly what i was going for - almost unrestricted airflow. feels like the middle point between some of my other fav devices.
 

CurryLeafTreehugger

Well-Known Member
I have way less hot-spotting using a piece of food-safe, heat resistant silicone tubing as a "tip" on the end of the stem. 1/2" tubing for the alpha stem and 3/8" tubing for the regular stem. I use 2 pieces of tubing in each size for my glass one-hitter because the glass tip is so small (3/8") for the alpha - 3/8" sleeve around the glass 3/8" tip, then 1/2" sleeve on top of that to fit around the alpha core. Only the 3/8" is needed for the regular core.

It does slightly reduce air flow, but I don't notice this particularly except with the glass one-hitter, but not unduly so even for that one (and I can use TEENSY TINY crumbs to great effect LOL!). It will be really hard to get the tubing on there the first few times, then its easy. The silicone is sticky and tends to attract dust and bits of ABV but eventually it stops doing that by and large.

There may be some drawbacks to this but I've not experienced or heard of any so far.

FOOD SAFE - HEAT RESISTANT silicone tubing only. You can find it at a local brew supply shop or amazon. Not poly. If its much less than around $3 a foot double check to make sure it is rated safe for both heat and food use.

Also I never ever load the stem full. For me, at least, more weed does not give more response, not all at once like that. I actually get a bigger rush off the tiny amount in my glass one-hitter. I don't know what happens with giant loads but small loads work better for me. TINY loads. I use my glass one-hitter (now that I made one LOL!) about 98% of the time. And I have 2 stems (from Alan at HI) I've not tested yet. Both of these are variations that let you use flat screens in the stems.

The HI stems are shorter than the UD stems (4" vs UD : 5" for regular glass direct draw stems : 6" for Alpha glass direct draw stems.) I meant to ask him to make them longer but I forgot and (for me at least) the vape is still too hot in the 4" stem by the time it gets to you. The load in the flat-screen stems (he makes regular plain old 4" glass stems that use basket screens but I'm talking about his custom stems that use the flat screens) also sits further back than typical for UD basket screens, and is not terribly adjustable. You might need to adjust the vape to account for that longer distance.

Also it occurs to me to wonder - has anybody tried moving the screen a little further back (and probably have to turn up the power a little) to see what effect that has on hot-spotting?

Alan also has a stem with vanes inside that create a sort of twister-motion to the air stream. This is also supposed to reduce hotspotting. I don't know if you can get that particular stem in longer lengths or how long it is. Its probably on the HI website and I think he posted some information about it on his forum thread not too long ago. I forgot to get one of those so I can't comment on how well it works. Meant to get one to try. Forgot. LOL!
 

tom battleboar

Active Member
@Enialis

I have never even once overpowered ANY of my Underdogs, starting from the EconoDog, then my Wild Vaple (both with the air core), then the Tiger Vaple with SC2 core, now my Alpha and my SC3+

Now I am admittedly a lightweight - But @arb is no lightweight so possibly he will chime in with information for the non-lightweights.

Recently I have been vaping WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAY more than usual. I have tested all but 2 of my stems so far plus several Frankenstems. Alpha - still solid as a rock, despite repeated hits in a row testing stems.

I have not used my SC3+ THAT extensively , I only used it once or twice after I got it until yesterday? Day before? Something like that (because Ondine the Alpha is so comfortable and easy to use). But I can't imagine it would be any less capable of keeping up.

I don't know why my Frankenstemmed glass one-hitter works so well. I never had any complaints about the glass direct draw stems on any of my devices, but the glass one-hitter is defintely better for me. Other people use the SS one-hitter stem but I can't use that very easily because I can't handle the screens or see if I'm getting it in there right. Plus I was going to have to make my own screens anyway because I need fine screens to use the "shake" (very finely ground herb, like a coarse flour).

Screens for the glass one-hitter are slightly larger than the SS version, so a little easier for me to handle and of course I can see it in the stem. Making the screens is a pain but at least I don't have to do it very often LOL! It does have a somewhat restricted draw but compared to my SC2 and previous versions, it's still less than that. Just more than a bigger stem.
Umm I kinda got an Aroma Dog smoking within 😳 this morning just combusted in my kitchen ugh power problems 😑 too high temperature even at 10.8 volts downstairs kitchen
 
tom battleboar,
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Enialis

Well-Known Member
@Enialis

I was planning on going to a coarser grind for the UD, because the crumbs come through the provided screen. However you can drop a 1/2" screen flat on top of the UD provided screens for the Alpha glass direct draw stem (if you put the UD basket screens in flat side up) - but your fine screen needs to be dead flat. I would MAKE the screens but I can't find a fine screen in 1" or larger (for less than a dollar apiece at any rate). I've been tempted to try to hunt up my disc cutter and make my own LOL! But I'm not sure it goes up to a whole inch.

For the regular glass direct draw, you can do the same thing with a 3/8" fine screen (or if you can find 3/4" fine screens, you can make a basket screen for that). There is also a way to balance a screen on the lip of a glass direct draw stem (wouldn't work on the SS tips, they're too thin-walled to support a screen) flat on top held in place with silicone tubing. 3/4" flat for the Alpha DD glass and 1/2" flat for the regular UD glass DD stem.

Not sure what other stems the standard basket screen fit in. Well the SS direct draw uses tiny basket screens, not sure about the hybrid but I think the ID on that is the same as the regular (non-Alpha) glass direct draw.

Since I've found ways to get a fine screen in there (weird ways, but ways that nonetheless work) I've decided I don't need a coarse grinder. With my SC2, there was too much air flow restriction to manage a fine screen with fine herb powder, it would pack and clog almost immedately. Because of that, I never considered using the shake even with a fine screen, but the draw on the Alpha and the SC3/SC3+ is much freer, and it works with a fine screen on the new dogs. I'm good with finer screens for that "shake" now.

But if you want a coarse grinder, the Brilliant Cut Grinder (coarse plate) was my choice for a coarse grinder. There is also the LIft? Lyft? Can't remember how they spell that.
I'm not entirely sure I understand what your getting at, are you talking about sandwhiching the herb between two screens kind of like how some vapes like the cloud evo use an actual basket with a lid for a screen? We're those your pictures?

I don't really comprehend the rest of what you were suggesting unless that wasn't directed at me. Do I need to go back and read your frankenstem posts to get up to speed?

I'm mostly wanting a course grind because I thought the ud worked better that way and I have to buy shake a lot to save money. I'm not trying to use a fine grind on purpose for this vape which is why I was looking for solutions to avoid fine grinds for this vape.
 

tom battleboar

Active Member
Hey brother I posted a photo of me having a basket screen plus a screen over the herb. It helps with temperature control, flavor, duration, and just the stupid avb that always seems to be everywhere. Be up in my bed itching cause we don't wear shoes in the house. So socks n feet cause avb to go places where it's not required.

Screen on top of herb. 11.2 to 12.2 volts.
 
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