i think you are right, it could be triggering a failsafe mode. but i havent had time to dig into this algorithm, i need to write it out on paper to understand it properly if at all.My guess is this is some type of failsafe or safety programmed in that detects an issue with the battery and then won't give full power. Once it detects whatever it is looking for, it will not fully heat until it is reset. Perhaps this is a good thing.
its unfortunately unlikely something you can change in the settings yourself. yes i have seen it reduce to random amounts of watts possible. your experience sounds pretty uncool, i havent experienced this issue in that gravity.I've been experiencing similar anomalies. The thing is that it will behave in this manner with any of 25R, 30Q or HG2. Then, next time I try with a previously faulty battery, after having used another, it will work just fine....or not.
I'm thinking it's likely a firmware bug, so maybe changing something in the settings will overcome it.
The issue also seems to vary in intensity, in that sometimes it won't heat above about 200F, and sometimes it heats adequately if I draw slower than usual. Then, the next fast/ hard draw may be fine. It's a good thing I can see what's happening, with the digital display.
i see. bowls is a relative size especially between the project and milaana/tubo id say. maybe we should compare amount of material maybe someone can compare who has all of them. but what i meant was that i dont think the battery life would be extended on the tubo by reducing watts or the other way round i think it would not get limited by going 70watts on the project.Yes clearly. I'm getting 3 bowls (about 30 hits each) per 25R on the Milaana (under 40W unregulated) and I'm getting considerably more (4-5 maybe?) with the same cell using the Project or my numerous custom 510 attys on several mods set to 40W / TC mode.
So with the same cell, same mod, same firmware, only a lower max wattage, I'm getting noticeably more run-time, and adequate *at least to my slow drawing style* stability and vapor output. That's why I think it could be interesting to add that second profile. Users could try it and revert to max power with just a few clicks (and it would be preset and optimized by you so they don't have to dive into the gory details and PID settings)
But otherwise your vape seems to be clearly a powerhouse at 70W. That's definitely a selling point, it's more powerful than the Mighty and the Zion. It just sounds normal that it would be quite taxing on the cell...
...and I think it's really borderline for the HG2, which got quite hot already at 18A on all tests I've seen. Mooch even rates it only at 18A continuous. So it's operating close to the limit at 17A which will greatly reduce its service life.
Maybe it would be best if you recommended the 30Q/VTC6/HG2 only as second choice, and the VTC5/25R/H2/HE4 as first choice instead? My own recommendation would be to use 30A cells to operate with ample headroom. The VTC4 being only 23A continuous and 2100mAh is a good compromise and otherwise the LG HB2/HB4/HB6 would be even better than the VTC3 with a true 30A rating.
same firmware
So it's operating close to the limit at 17A which will greatly reduce its service life.
Happy 420 FJ ! Powerbank looks great ,i love it ! The design and all<3 ,for sure a great accessory addition the already great vaporizer,IMO its a must have for any HC user like me ) !happy 420!
ok, now to the exiting news.... its....a.....power adapter
yeah its big. its a proprietary power supply, namely RSP-200-4. and the wires are heavy gauge speaker cables, a bit stiff, but ok. they are necessary to avoid a big voltage drop over the length at such low voltage.
design of the tubo connector will be a little different for the final version, less prototypy.
i am really happy with it and the wire length is enough to place the box on the floor, behind the monitor or in plain sight it will be ready soon. we need to figure out shipping, as this is a bit heavy, maybe some could purchase the psu themselves and mount it into the wooden box provided by me, to save costs.
and maybe you have seen it, the white tubo, first of its kind, made from mdf wood. available as a wood choice as well.
hf everyone!
we need to figure out shipping, as this is a bit heavy, maybe some could purchase the psu themselves and mount it into the wooden box provided by me, to save costs.
Amen brother ! ) Glad you are enjoying your tubo too ! I just tried to do a video and show off the thick vapor clouds i am getting, but my camera battery went off without me knowing and i did a full bowl session thinkin i am on rec and now i am out of my mind ,my fingers are trembling ,i will need a couple of hours till i get operational and shoot another session .Just wanted to say that I really like this vape. Hits VERY hard. It has completely exceeded my expectations.
I can't believe the vapor production. NO HOT SPOTS or CHARRING. Complete extraction.
Tasty vapor. Lung busting hits. Low heat or high. Dead simple to use. Even a caveman could do it.
Happy 4/20 everyone.
I dont know if i will be saving anything on shipping since i am in the EU but i found this supply for 35 euro in a led store nearby,i guess those are pretty easy to find.I'd be down for a "DIY" kit. I quickly googled that power supply and it seems to be pretty easy to find in my area, looks like I can get it shipped to me for $8 from Mouser.
Anyone else on the west coast that received their Tubo? How long did it take?
Supposedly average time to the states via economy has been around 12 days and mine was sent March 30th, yet now its been over 20 days and still no package in the mail...
I hate to be one of those guys posting about shipping waits, but here we are lol
happy 420!
first some fuel for the discussion with @KeroZen and other interested ones:
these three draws are high draw rate from completly cold(21gedC). the first draw is using a lot of energy during the whole draw, heatup of the tubes/bowl/material, pid overshoots. from the second on and on you can see that the heater is only briefly operating at full power.
up next, an aggressive preheat at 260C, NO draw for 25 seconds, followed by a fast draw at 220C.
ok, now to the exiting news.... its....a.....power adapter
yeah its big. its a proprietary power supply, namely RSP-200-4. and the wires are heavy gauge speaker cables, a bit stiff, but ok. they are necessary to avoid a big voltage drop over the length at such low voltage.
design of the tubo connector will be a little different for the final version, less prototypy.
i am really happy with it and the wire length is enough to place the box on the floor, behind the monitor or in plain sight it will be ready soon. we need to figure out shipping, as this is a bit heavy, maybe some could purchase the psu themselves and mount it into the wooden box provided by me, to save costs.
and maybe you have seen it, the white tubo, first of its kind, made from mdf wood. available as a wood choice as well.
hf everyone!
good question! this project has evolved mostly as we go and i like this fact a lot! i like to think that i am flexible, lets continue this! my focus is the unit tho, maybe another model in the future.I am not a DIY person but if you market one I will buy.
I have a quetion for you. What do you see or want as the future for the tubo? Are you planning on expanding or moving on to creating more and different equipment?
Lol Anyone noticed there is a Game in the options menu ... I just played Flappy Bird or something It is nothing special you just control the height of the bird by pulsing the button,but woaahhh, lets make a flappy bird High score contest .This is the first vaporizer that i encounter that offers to play an arcade game after you are done with your session ...
Words of wisdom I received from @Lookatmeglow in reference to optimal use of the GonG
"Put it on 480 and pull as hard as I can"
Just tried this with a fresh bowl and oh man....
Can someone recommend the best batteries for the tubo? I have the original list with the recommended ones but it seems like now that people are using it they are finding some better than others.
Welcome to the Tubo train ,dude ! This for sure is one awesome project. I just wanted to let you know that that there isnt any problem to use it with a hydratube in its current composition,except if you need to use the tubo as a stand,but this can be aided with some kind of wooden accessory,there is no need of redesign IMO.LG HG2 are solid batteries, probably adequate for this application. Samsung 25r are 500mah smaller capacity, but 5A higher discharge rating. But I'd have thought the 20A HG2 would be fine.
First post in this thread! I have to say, this is a really interesting project. One idea that had been bouncing around in my head is, imagine a slightly scaled up version of this, designed for hydrotubes.
Most likely based around a 2-3 18650 mod (cuboid, rx200 etc), it would basically function like a cordless, on demand, vapexhale killer.
I lack the technical know how to make it a reality, so if anyone wants to develop the idea, you're more than welcome I think it sounds like a killer concept for a dedicated 'vapour bong' setup
Anyway as for the future of the tubo, I would like to see a version where the heater is stand alone unit which connects to the mod via 2.1mm to 510 cable ., you will be able to use it with any TC mod you like ,big or small ,although i dont know if all TC mods can support its software.
hehe i consider this a logical next step as well as the power adapter have something in the works but need more time.Most likely based around a 2-3 18650 mod (cuboid, rx200 etc), it would basically function like a cordless, on demand, vapexhale killer.
I lack the technical know how to make it a reality, so if anyone wants to develop the idea, you're more than welcome I think it sounds like a killer concept for a dedicated 'vapour bong' setup
you already told me about this connector in a pm, its indeed a very good concept and probably the way to go with a tubo510 attachment, thanks much! on to the to-do list you go! i dont see a lot of obstacles, maybe again the cable thickness to avoid voltage drop.Sofar i have experienced with and VTC 5 ,EFEST 35A ,Samsung 30q and i think i like the VTC 5 most of all.
Anyway as for the future of the tubo, I would like to see a version where the heater is stand alone unit which connects to the mod via 2.1mm to 510 cable ., you will be able to use it with any TC mod you like ,big or small ,although i dont know if all TC mods can support its software.
Anyway i think this separation would also decrease the probability of overheating .
yes that should all work the heater is consisting of three parallel configured coils inside a glass tube design.A detached, 510 powered heater would be a really interesting use of the Tubo heater design.. I was picturing kind of like a Tubo mini log; would work with all the same glass pieces. Basically just the little heater block detached from the Tubo.
I guess log/desktop performance is basically what @funkyjunky is bringing to the Evic Tubo by making a power adapter.. But people who already own mods could just download the firmware (or use their own, I guess it's technically still just a coil for the mod), and try out the Tubo heater with their own devices! If this could work with the no-button draw system as well that'd be amazing.
i checked out your charger really quick. it does stop when your batteries are charged and it does recharge them when it detects that they lost power. this can only be done by the device if you leave them there. so in theory the device is made to leave the batteries on it. HOWEVER battery vendors tell you to never let them charge/in the charger unattended. so i cannot recommend against that recommendation, especially in my position.I've always just left batteries in my Luc4 until I needed them until recently when I read that that's dangerous. So I charged all my batteries and put them in plastic cases. When i went to use them all of the new ones had lost their charge.
I want someone to tell me that it's ok to leave the batteries in the charger.