Maybe it is the wood. I think mine is beech and maybe whether it's painted or plain wood makes a difference in the heat. I don't think it matters as long as it doesn't get too hot to hold and that hasn't happened yet.You really don't need to worry about that. @funkyjunky has tested the units with much higher temps. I too have done several back to backs w/o pause - repressing the button directly after the cut off several times... So heating more than a minute.
It won't break itself and should not be a problem at all.
Also, I don't find my tubo to be hot at all.. Not to the touch at least..I hold the tubo just on the base unit part, not the heater section. (Wouldn't do that anyways.. It's supposed to be warm/hot). Of course, my unit is a cooler one and has a 20 sec protection, but I don't think it would make such a huge difference.
Hope this helps!
some have reported that sometimes after high temperature preheat and going back down the tubo is stuck with low wattage. a quick reinsert of the battery solves this instantly (see manual). its random and i see it very rarely myself. will try to haunt it down in the code .
@funkyjunky, I'm wondering if you've found a solution to this issue. I'm finding it necessary to remove the battery on almost every draw, or it won't heat much beyond about 200F. Sometimes removing the battery doesn't help until I've done it several times.
When it works, it's great, and I've had good luck with other Joyetech products, so I'm hopeful that this will be resolved soon (and hopeful that my unit isn't defective).
BTW, I'm glad I bought a whip. I couldn't figure out why I wasn't consistently getting vapor, until the whip allowed me to watch the screen during use. And, when I do get vapor with the whip, it's incredibly cool.
I have found that hot units are just as much about the individual as the possibility for error. I can hold a vape no problem that my wife will think is burning hot.
I need the new firmware...mine still has the 20 second cutoff and I always go past that. I can do a 40 or 50 second draw if necessary, and I always double tap the button to reset it during a draw for the extra time, so no worries on doing that.
The errors you guys are reporting are the kind of things I was getting when using other batteries that weren't good enough for this mod, so make sure you are using recommended batteries.
I still get crazy big clouds off this thing that impress me, even after having it for months!
I haven't gotten a "device too hot" message which is reassuring in spite of the heat. I've had no problems as far as I can tell but does upgrading the firmware take care of the bugs? I haven't had any bugs but if it will make a difference I'll upgrade as a preventative. Otherwise the less I do the better for me.Nope 25R are fine, higher C rate than the 30Q (i.e they can deliver more amps continuously)
But the myevic custom firmware still has some quirks and bugs there and there. I managed to partly brick mine at some point (but don't worry, it's because I do a lot of experiments with various attys, in your Tubos everything is fixed so as long as you don't mess with the settings too much horrible things should not happen hehe) But yes, some bugs from time to time.
"Device too hot" (or something like that) is when the internal temperature sensor is not happy. Usually it's because the FETs in the buck/boost converter are overheating. Try doing shorter trigger bursts and/or spacing your hits more.
"Device too hot" (or something like that) is when the internal temperature sensor is not happy. Usually it's because the FETs in the buck/boost converter are overheating. Try doing shorter trigger bursts and/or spacing your hits more.
Nope 25R are fine, higher C rate than the 30Q (i.e they can deliver more amps continuously)
But the myevic custom firmware still has some quirks and bugs there and there. I managed to partly brick mine at some point (but don't worry, it's because I do a lot of experiments with various attys, in your Tubos everything is fixed so as long as you don't mess with the settings too much horrible things should not happen hehe) But yes, some bugs from time to time.
"Device too hot" (or something like that) is when the internal temperature sensor is not happy. Usually it's because the FETs in the buck/boost converter are overheating. Try doing shorter trigger bursts and/or spacing your hits more.
I do love the whip. Maybe when they get tired of wrapping they can sell wrapping kits. I'm probably the only one here who is so unhandy that I would need a kit.Yeah I was kinda ripping on it when I got the msg, was my last bowl of the night so I jacked up temp and just went to town. Wasn't too surprised, or disappointed... to say the least. High temps on this thing get me noticeably more baked from 1 bowl than multiple bowls with other devices trying to ride that line. Still really loving it over here.
Bentstem crew! trying to keep the whip spotless bc its so nice.
I haven't seen any error messages. It just doesn't heat consistently.
Yeah, you don't get necessarily any error, my remark was specifically about the "Device too hot" one. I had some quirks where the device just acted but didn't display anything particular and I had to reset it.
But what do you mean by not consistently? How's the temperature displayed on screen? Stable enough? If you have a PC there's a 3rd party software to log/plot various device parameters, it's handy to debug and find problems.
When it's acting up, the temperature sometimes hovers just above 200F, and sometimes heats very slowly to the set temperature. When it does the latter, if I draw on it the temp falls instantly to about 200 and won't come back up.
@KeroZen, is the software you mentioned available on Joyetech's website?
@KeroZen, is the software you mentioned available on Joyetech's website?
On the battery itself it is written, Max cont. discharge 20 AWell, it's either not 3000mAh or not 35A (or both) Don't push it over 20A that's my advice.
Something was also probably wrong with your Samsung. Sure it's legit? Tons of fakes around, only buy from reputed sources.
thank you very much @KeroZen to way in on the matter.
as i said i have experienced this failure but it is very rare for me and goes away with a re-insert of the battery. also its not reproducible for me. it mostly happened to me with a fresh battery and with aggressive preheating to max temp for a few seconds, then going down and wanting to power it. it seems to get stuck at low wattage, sometimes as low as 11watts. withough drawing it might reach set temperature but will crash insta when air is flowing as its unable to power up. stuck at low watts somehow.
unfortunately the developer of the firmware is missing since 2 months, so i cannot speak to him about this issue. making sense of all what he did takes a lot of time, but as i am trying to implement the no-button press mode i come across a lot of stuff and start to understand. soon i'll have a bit more time and start the true witch hunt.
maybe the ones that experience this often can document the failure a bit, maybe even make a video? can you reproduce it always? is there a certain way to do things to end up with the failure? thank you in advance.
i gladly supply the new 25s firmware to the ones that have the older 20s timer (in the latest batch all have the new firmware already). maybe we can go higher in the future, lets see