little maggie

Well-Known Member
You really don't need to worry about that. @funkyjunky has tested the units with much higher temps. I too have done several back to backs w/o pause - repressing the button directly after the cut off several times... So heating more than a minute.
It won't break itself and should not be a problem at all.
Also, I don't find my tubo to be hot at all.. Not to the touch at least..I hold the tubo just on the base unit part, not the heater section. (Wouldn't do that anyways.. It's supposed to be warm/hot). Of course, my unit is a cooler one and has a 20 sec protection, but I don't think it would make such a huge difference.

Hope this helps!

:peace:
Maybe it is the wood. I think mine is beech and maybe whether it's painted or plain wood makes a difference in the heat. I don't think it matters as long as it doesn't get too hot to hold and that hasn't happened yet.
 

muunch

hotboxing the cockpit
Anyone done concentrates? Temp recommendations?

edit:

Just got "device too hot" vaping a bowl at 420f. :o

No biggie, just interesting. It wasn't even hot to the touch >_>

Still haven't gone beyond 440f but think I will need to for concentrates. Will report back but won't try it til next week probably.

Also, poplar is the recommended wood if you got a color. I didn't deviate from this but maybe you did?
 
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RelaxedNow

Well-Known Member
some have reported that sometimes after high temperature preheat and going back down the tubo is stuck with low wattage. a quick reinsert of the battery solves this instantly (see manual). its random and i see it very rarely myself. will try to haunt it down in the code :goon:.

@funkyjunky, I'm wondering if you've found a solution to this issue. I'm finding it necessary to remove the battery on almost every draw, or it won't heat much beyond about 200F. Sometimes removing the battery doesn't help until I've done it several times.

When it works, it's great, and I've had good luck with other Joyetech products, so I'm hopeful that this will be resolved soon (and hopeful that my unit isn't defective).

BTW, I'm glad I bought a whip. I couldn't figure out why I wasn't consistently getting vapor, until the whip allowed me to watch the screen during use. And, when I do get vapor with the whip, it's incredibly cool. :love:
 

vapen00b

Many vapes & accessories. Always happy to help
@funkyjunky, I'm wondering if you've found a solution to this issue. I'm finding it necessary to remove the battery on almost every draw, or it won't heat much beyond about 200F. Sometimes removing the battery doesn't help until I've done it several times.

When it works, it's great, and I've had good luck with other Joyetech products, so I'm hopeful that this will be resolved soon (and hopeful that my unit isn't defective).

BTW, I'm glad I bought a whip. I couldn't figure out why I wasn't consistently getting vapor, until the whip allowed me to watch the screen during use. And, when I do get vapor with the whip, it's incredibly cool. :love:

Yeah, it's good to see the screen. I too am having some off/on moments. Also had a similar thing that would not go away until I switched it off and on again (5x pressing the button.. re-inserting the batt didn't do the job). @funkyjunky knows about this too so I'm hopeful, we'll get a fix some day.
But other than those occational misfires this unit is rocking it like hell... Love it.

Increased my resistance another .003 ohms.. now it's @ .0190 (stock 0.184). Will play with it later and see if I'm approaching 'better' temps. All yours seem to be tuned a little hotter stock wise. I know, every unit is tuned separately as the coils vary - but I'd like to know: what's your stock resistance, guys and gals? Do you think yours matches the displayed temps realistically?

Thanks! :)


Enjoy your tubos! :tup:
 

stickstones

Vapor concierge
I have found that hot units are just as much about the individual as the possibility for error. I can hold a vape no problem that my wife will think is burning hot.

I need the new firmware...mine still has the 20 second cutoff and I always go past that. I can do a 40 or 50 second draw if necessary, and I always double tap the button to reset it during a draw for the extra time, so no worries on doing that.

The errors you guys are reporting are the kind of things I was getting when using other batteries that weren't good enough for this mod, so make sure you are using recommended batteries.

I still get crazy big clouds off this thing that impress me, even after having it for months!
 

muunch

hotboxing the cockpit
My resistance is default at .188 - haven't touched it and don't feel the need. I feel like my unit runs right on or very very slightly cool, based on abv color and other useless non-scientific stuff.

I do notice some odd stuff occasionally with regards to heating and etc, but a simple on/off fixes all the stuff I experience and even that is rare and not a huge inconvenience. Nothing has happened with enough regularity for me to really make note of it.
 

RelaxedNow

Well-Known Member
I have found that hot units are just as much about the individual as the possibility for error. I can hold a vape no problem that my wife will think is burning hot.

I need the new firmware...mine still has the 20 second cutoff and I always go past that. I can do a 40 or 50 second draw if necessary, and I always double tap the button to reset it during a draw for the extra time, so no worries on doing that.

The errors you guys are reporting are the kind of things I was getting when using other batteries that weren't good enough for this mod, so make sure you are using recommended batteries.

I still get crazy big clouds off this thing that impress me, even after having it for months!

Hmmm...I'm using 25R's, so maybe that's the problem. I do have a 30Q and a HG2 on the way from IMR, so I'll soon know.
 

KeroZen

Chronic vapaholic
Nope 25R are fine, higher C rate than the 30Q (i.e they can deliver more amps continuously)

But the myevic custom firmware still has some quirks and bugs there and there. I managed to partly brick mine at some point (but don't worry, it's because I do a lot of experiments with various attys, in your Tubos everything is fixed so as long as you don't mess with the settings too much horrible things should not happen hehe) But yes, some bugs from time to time.

"Device too hot" (or something like that) is when the internal temperature sensor is not happy. Usually it's because the FETs in the buck/boost converter are overheating. Try doing shorter trigger bursts and/or spacing your hits more.
 

little maggie

Well-Known Member
Nope 25R are fine, higher C rate than the 30Q (i.e they can deliver more amps continuously)

But the myevic custom firmware still has some quirks and bugs there and there. I managed to partly brick mine at some point (but don't worry, it's because I do a lot of experiments with various attys, in your Tubos everything is fixed so as long as you don't mess with the settings too much horrible things should not happen hehe) But yes, some bugs from time to time.

"Device too hot" (or something like that) is when the internal temperature sensor is not happy. Usually it's because the FETs in the buck/boost converter are overheating. Try doing shorter trigger bursts and/or spacing your hits more.
I haven't gotten a "device too hot" message which is reassuring in spite of the heat. I've had no problems as far as I can tell but does upgrading the firmware take care of the bugs? I haven't had any bugs but if it will make a difference I'll upgrade as a preventative. Otherwise the less I do the better for me.
 

muunch

hotboxing the cockpit
"Device too hot" (or something like that) is when the internal temperature sensor is not happy. Usually it's because the FETs in the buck/boost converter are overheating. Try doing shorter trigger bursts and/or spacing your hits more.

Yeah I was kinda ripping on it when I got the msg, was my last bowl of the night so I jacked up temp and just went to town. Wasn't too surprised, or disappointed... to say the least. High temps on this thing get me noticeably more baked from 1 bowl than multiple bowls with other devices trying to ride that line. Still really loving it over here.

Bentstem crew! trying to keep the whip spotless bc its so nice.
 

RelaxedNow

Well-Known Member
Nope 25R are fine, higher C rate than the 30Q (i.e they can deliver more amps continuously)

But the myevic custom firmware still has some quirks and bugs there and there. I managed to partly brick mine at some point (but don't worry, it's because I do a lot of experiments with various attys, in your Tubos everything is fixed so as long as you don't mess with the settings too much horrible things should not happen hehe) But yes, some bugs from time to time.

"Device too hot" (or something like that) is when the internal temperature sensor is not happy. Usually it's because the FETs in the buck/boost converter are overheating. Try doing shorter trigger bursts and/or spacing your hits more.

I haven't seen any error messages. It just doesn't heat consistently.

I'm still holding out hope that my batteries are the problem, even if there's no logic to that. :lol:
 

little maggie

Well-Known Member
Yeah I was kinda ripping on it when I got the msg, was my last bowl of the night so I jacked up temp and just went to town. Wasn't too surprised, or disappointed... to say the least. High temps on this thing get me noticeably more baked from 1 bowl than multiple bowls with other devices trying to ride that line. Still really loving it over here.

Bentstem crew! trying to keep the whip spotless bc its so nice.
I do love the whip. Maybe when they get tired of wrapping they can sell wrapping kits. I'm probably the only one here who is so unhandy that I would need a kit.
 

KeroZen

Chronic vapaholic
I haven't seen any error messages. It just doesn't heat consistently.

Yeah, you don't get necessarily any error, my remark was specifically about the "Device too hot" one. I had some quirks where the device just acted but didn't display anything particular and I had to reset it.

But what do you mean by not consistently? How's the temperature displayed on screen? Stable enough? If you have a PC there's a 3rd party software to log/plot various device parameters, it's handy to debug and find problems.
 

RelaxedNow

Well-Known Member
Yeah, you don't get necessarily any error, my remark was specifically about the "Device too hot" one. I had some quirks where the device just acted but didn't display anything particular and I had to reset it.

But what do you mean by not consistently? How's the temperature displayed on screen? Stable enough? If you have a PC there's a 3rd party software to log/plot various device parameters, it's handy to debug and find problems.

When it's acting up, the temperature sometimes hovers just above 200F, and sometimes heats very slowly to the set temperature. When it does the latter, if I draw on it the temp falls instantly to about 200 and won't come back up.

@KeroZen, is the software you mentioned available on Joyetech's website?
 

vapen00b

Many vapes & accessories. Always happy to help
When it's acting up, the temperature sometimes hovers just above 200F, and sometimes heats very slowly to the set temperature. When it does the latter, if I draw on it the temp falls instantly to about 200 and won't come back up.

@KeroZen, is the software you mentioned available on Joyetech's website?


I had a similar incident. Set it at 180C and temp broke in immediately when drawing and could not recover. Switching off and on via button helped.
I'm using HG2s and I'm pretty sure it's not about the batteries.

Tuned my coil to .190 and I was getting very dark brown abv at 215C. Turned it down one notch to .189. I'm getting very close. :)
 

KeroZen

Chronic vapaholic
@KeroZen, is the software you mentioned available on Joyetech's website?

Nope it's the NFE Toolbox for ArcticFox but it also works with myevic. You can get it there: https://github.com/TBXin/NFirmwareEditor

Allows to monitor your device while it's plugged to your PC over USB (note: obviously you need a USB cable that carries data and not just power, like one for your phone for instance)

Your problem is intriguing. Never experienced something like that. Let's have @funkyjunky chime in and he'll surely help you for the debugging.
 

funkyjunky

www.lamart.ch
Manufacturer
thank you very much @KeroZen to way in on the matter.
as i said i have experienced this failure but it is very rare for me and goes away with a re-insert of the battery. also its not reproducible for me. it mostly happened to me with a fresh battery and with aggressive preheating to max temp for a few seconds, then going down and wanting to power it. it seems to get stuck at low wattage, sometimes as low as 11watts. withough drawing it might reach set temperature but will crash insta when air is flowing as its unable to power up. stuck at low watts somehow.

unfortunately the developer of the firmware is missing since 2 months, so i cannot speak to him about this issue. making sense of all what he did takes a lot of time, but as i am trying to implement the no-button press mode i come across a lot of stuff and start to understand. soon i'll have a bit more time and start the true witch hunt.
maybe the ones that experience this often can document the failure a bit, maybe even make a video? can you reproduce it always? is there a certain way to do things to end up with the failure? thank you in advance.

i gladly supply the new 25s firmware to the ones that have the older 20s timer (in the latest batch all have the new firmware already). maybe we can go higher in the future, lets see :)
 

KeroZen

Chronic vapaholic
Maybe it's about time to create that fork I evoked in the "box mods firmwares" thread? :cool:

See you over there! (btw I found something interesting around my own problem, just need to find the time to post it)
 

Abysmal Vapor

Supersniffer 2000 - robot fart detection device
I've been playing around with the tubo... and this vape hits like a train.. but i was getting only one session per full battery. The overheating problem is happening when i have just charged the battery,and the unit itself is a bit hot from the charging.. and then if i draw at 200+ too hard i get this after 2 hits like this. Moderation is the key :)). Btw just bought a new battery locally the guy at the shop even had few charged.. i sticked it directly in the tubo and i got like 2 good session and i still have 63 % lol.. smth must have been wrong with the stock battery . The one i got is
18650 Battery 3000mAh 35A Efest at a localshop.It is made in china,but i get 3 times the battery life i did with the samsung :)

  • Nominal Voltage: 3.6V
  • Voltage at end of Discharge: 2.5V
  • Max Charging Current: 4A
  • Standard Charge: 2A
  • Continuous discharge current: 20A
 

Abysmal Vapor

Supersniffer 2000 - robot fart detection device
Well, it's either not 3000mAh or not 35A (or both) Don't push it over 20A that's my advice.

Something was also probably wrong with your Samsung. Sure it's legit? Tons of fakes around, only buy from reputed sources.
On the battery itself it is written, Max cont. discharge 20 A
Max pulse discharge 35 A . I don't know what MPD is but MCD is what counts ,also did consulted with the maker before buying these and he said they are ok !
IDK if my Samsung was legit ,but ordered it from funkyjunky along with my tubo,so i guess i just pulled the short stem :D with it.
I actually traveled home for some holiday time,it is Easter around here :D and forgot my desktop,i was left only with the tubo and a battery lasting one session,so i found the EFEST in a local e-cig store,the only brand they had costed me 10 euro.. ,kind of a ripoff ,i could have gotten SONY for less ,but i do not regret it even one bit, works like a charm and saved the day.(also have very good feedback on amazon ,if that counts for something.)
 
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RelaxedNow

Well-Known Member
thank you very much @KeroZen to way in on the matter.
as i said i have experienced this failure but it is very rare for me and goes away with a re-insert of the battery. also its not reproducible for me. it mostly happened to me with a fresh battery and with aggressive preheating to max temp for a few seconds, then going down and wanting to power it. it seems to get stuck at low wattage, sometimes as low as 11watts. withough drawing it might reach set temperature but will crash insta when air is flowing as its unable to power up. stuck at low watts somehow.

unfortunately the developer of the firmware is missing since 2 months, so i cannot speak to him about this issue. making sense of all what he did takes a lot of time, but as i am trying to implement the no-button press mode i come across a lot of stuff and start to understand. soon i'll have a bit more time and start the true witch hunt.
maybe the ones that experience this often can document the failure a bit, maybe even make a video? can you reproduce it always? is there a certain way to do things to end up with the failure? thank you in advance.

i gladly supply the new 25s firmware to the ones that have the older 20s timer (in the latest batch all have the new firmware already). maybe we can go higher in the future, lets see :)

@mistvaporizer, the problem is inconsistent. In fact, I'm happy to say mine is working just fine today, after struggling with it the past couple of days. Today, I've used it 3 times, taking 2-4 draws each time, and also cycled it several times without drawing so as to observe the screen closely. Even though the battery is getting weak, the Tubo is keeping up very well.

Documenting the failures may require me to go beyond my capabilities while high. j/k :rofl:....... Actually, if you can tell me what you'd like to track, I'd be happy to give it a try.
 
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