TUBO evic/dual

[Wicked0ne]

So I couldn't wait another day for my batteries to get here so I took a Samsung 20R. My tubo isn't showing "weak battery" anymore!

However... something ain't right. I'm not getting ANY vapor production at 335F. I get a tiny bit of flavor, but it tastes more like warm weed then vapor.

What can I try?

*EDIT*
Even cranking this up to 380F+ produces no vapor

 

[MonkeyTime]

So I couldn't wait another day for my batteries to get here so I took a Samsung 20R. My tubo isn't showing "weak battery" anymore!

However... something ain't right. I'm not getting ANY vapor production at 335F. I get a tiny bit of flavor, but it tastes more like warm weed then vapor.

What can I try?

*EDIT*
Even cranking this up to 380F+ produces no vapor

I think we're back to the "how ya packing" thought.....

If you're sandwiching between two screens, you need to bump up the temps, I run 420-430 thru water and it's smooth clouds.

How are you grinding and how much are you packing ?

 

[Wicked0ne]

How are you grinding and how much are you packing ?

I've tried a few different grinds. From very fine to coarse. I have also tried to pack the glass bowl semi tight/full to just a few pinches.

I've always preferred flavor over clouds and never vape over 380ish. At 330-340 on my CFV the first hit produces no visible vapor and has tons of flavor. Hit 2 and 3 start producing visible vapors and good flavor.

So far I have honestly not gotten 1 semi good hit from my Tubo. After trying a few things earlier I ended up emptying the tubo bowl and finishing the herb in my M. I really really hope brand new batteries get this thing ripping.

 

[dudeguy]

Agreed something doesnt add up there. What type of screen system are you using?

I usually sandwich material between a domed screen and a mesh screen with the domed being near the heating unit. If I turn up the temp to 250° the coils also glow so it seems the heating system is working. Maybe it is a problem with the air flow and the mouthpiece.

Edit:

@Wicked0ne I see you have similar vapor problems, have you tried different mouthpieces yet? As batteries I use a Samsung 30q and Sony VTC6.

 

[Wicked0ne]

@Wicked0ne I see you have similar vapor problems, have you tried different mouthpieces yet? As batteries I use a Samsung 30q and Sony VTC6.

I don't have any other glass mouth pieces. I also pack the glass bowl and then insert the domed screen.

 

[Gray Area]

From my experience a good seal at the ground glass joint is essential for good performance.
I only use rbt stems, simply because I prefer them over stock tbh, but a couple of the stems I got with my units were a poor fit and delivered poor performance.

I too load the joint itself and cap it with the domed screen. Because of this I probably run it hotter than someone who just packs the domed screen itself (the load being further away etc).
No probs getting nice vapour production from 215c displayed as temp and up (to max 230C)...

Try and get a good seal on the stems
My Tubo's tend to work better with a decent draw to get the air moving... if it's cruise mode let it run for 10 seconds or so before drawing, or for on demand fire the button for a similar time to preheat the coils a bit. Once it's warm, subsequent draws shouldn't need that...

 

[Wicked0ne]

If I turn up the temp to 250° the coils also glow

Hmm, How bright do they glow? With my Tubo turned all the way up my coils do not glow.

 

[Abysmal Vapor]

Hmm, How bright do they glow? With my Tubo turned all the way up my coils do not glow.

This is how it should be. Glowing isnt good for the coil health. Anyway if you feel it is cooler than desired,you can see if upping the cold resistance will result in coil glow,you can bring it to the very edge if you like,just make sure it doesnt glow at 260 C. I get monstrous amounts of vapor at 220-230 C and no glow on any temp.

 

[Wicked0ne]

This is how it should be. Glowing isnt good for the coil health

Good, the coils are definitely making heat, if I blow through the bottom air intake and put my hand where the glass stem goes I can feel heat.

From my experience a good seal at the ground glass joint is essential for good performance.

So far I'm leaning towards this; my tubo seems to be making heat... I just have no way to test. I have no other glass and... in all honesty I'm broke as shit and had/have no intentions of buying a replacement stem.

 

[sickmanfraud]

I just have no way to test. I have no other glass and... in all honesty I'm broke as shit and had/have no intentions of buying a replacement stem.

Spend less than $1 to buy a roll of Teflon tape. See if a few windings OUTSIDE THE AIRPATH make a difference.

 

[Wicked0ne]

Spend less than $1 to buy a roll of Teflon tape. See if a few windings OUTSIDE THE AIRPATH make a difference.

I thought about trying something like this out, but was weary of putting anything near the heater. I'll see if I can get a better seal.

 

[HughJundys]

I ordered a @Pipes IH and a TuboEvic right around the same time. It's a race!

For those of you that placed bets it looks like the TuboEvic is way out in front:

Order ID: 502
Date Ordered: 30/05/2018

Your order has been updated to the following status:

Shipped

Anything can happen but it appears it's not even close. The IH steed has never left the starting gate.

 

[dudeguy]

The coils really only glow noticeable on settings over 250°C. Heat is most noticeable at the very bottom of the chamber. Seems like it's working like it should or is the whole female glass joint inside the chamber supposed to get hot?
In the next few days I look into testing another glass mouthpiece , I feel like this might be the main issue.

 

[Wicked0ne]

I tried using a o-ring to seal the mouth piece better, but I'm still not getting any vapor production. Here is what a bowl looks like after 15+ full draw hits @ 350F looks like:
https://i.imgur.com/kdnelTX.jpg

I'm really getting frustrated with this thing. I've had it for over a week now and have not gotten 1 good hit from it, in fact I've been emptying the tubo's bowl and vaping out of my M or CFV.

 

[SloJimFizz]

I tried using a o-ring to seal the mouth piece better, but I'm still not getting any vapor production. Here is what a bowl looks like after 15+ full draw hits @ 350F looks like:
https://i.imgur.com/kdnelTX.jpg

I'm really getting frustrated with this thing. I've had it for over a week now and have not gotten 1 good hit from it, in fact I've been emptying the tubo's bowl and vaping out of my M or CFV.

What does 7 hits at 400f look like?
@WakeAndVape had a sweet spot that was up like 460f when he first got his.

 

[Gray Area]

What does 7 hits at 400f look like?
@WakeAndVape had a sweet spot that was up like 460f when he first got his.

I agree the temp needs to be increased... I'd even go a bit higher... 410F+
Doubt I'd see anything much at 350F too.

My sweet spot(s) would be 430-440F

 

[Wicked0ne]

I much prefer low temps and flavor over clouds. IIRC over 410-420 you start combusting.
I've used a bunch of vapes and you can definitely get visible vapor under 350 and as low as 330(as low as I usually go).

 

[Gray Area]

I much prefer low temps and flavor over clouds. IIRC over 410-420 you start combusting.
I've used a bunch of vapes and you can definitely get visible vapor under 350 and as low as 330(as low as I usually go).

Combustion is around 450-460F but regardless, do bear in mind the temp displayed is of the coils. The load, especially the way you (and I) pack it; in the joint itself, is removed from that, so cooler (apologies if I've mixed you up with someone else who posted about packing the glass joint part).

330-350 does seem low to me... not sure my Tubo's would do much of anything either that low... were the vapes you were getting good results from at this temp mainly conduction/hybrid??

I dunno, hope you get it sorted anyway

 

[Wicked0ne]

Combustion is around 450-460F

Combustion starts right around 400.

do bear in mind the temp displayed is of the coils. The load, especially the way you (and I) pack it; in the joint itself, is removed from that, so cooler (apologies if I've mixed you up with someone else who posted about packing the glass joint part).

Right, but I was under the impression that the devices have been calibrated to actually reach/maintain the temps displayed. Like if you want to vape at 350, the coils might actually heat to 380F in order to deliver 350 in the glass chamber.

were the vapes you were getting good results from at this temp mainly conduction/hybrid??

My main vape is the CFV which is pure convection. Convection vapes generally are better at producing flavor. But I've used a bunch of other vapes(airizer air 1 and 2, pax 2, mflb, vapcap M).

I dunno, hope you get it sorted anyway

Me too

 

[Gray Area]

Not here to argue, but there's no combustion at 400F. Even an solo can kick out higher temps than that...

 

[cpk]

I vape at 445F on my Herbie.

 

[funkyjunky]

well hello!

yes i do calibrate them with a temperature sensor. the calibration process is not overviewed by nasa and i found measuring convective air is tricky in itself.

the calibration is such that the temperature displayed is the one of the LOAD in the glass joint. thats exactly what is calibrated. the coils are hotter than the displayed value!

also they do glow a bit in the dark at 260degC.

combustion does occur as stated in the manual at around 240degC. at least for this device, other manufacturers have other means of measuring temperatures so the devices can be hotter or colder or focus heat in a point where its hotter etc.

@Wicked0ne please increase your temperature OR increase your resistance until you get the results you are looking for.
go to 'menu>coils>manage' and increase the number at line TUBO (TCR previously) at around 0.002 at a time. make sure the lock symbol is there before you leave again.
for science you could also do a 400degF session right away just to see where this vapor is hiding

to get everything going i recommend using the warmup function, maybe directly warmup2cruise (set W2C to 1 in menu>vaping). tubo does unleash its full potential when the glass tubes are warmed up.

in addition to that the tubo likes a harder pull (@dudeguy maybe too) and also benefits from prolonged draws that really transfer the heat to the load, especially when starting with cold tubo, bowl and glass.

 

[Djunta]

I manage to combust around 420f with the perfect draw and heated glass, never changed the resistance and my abv is always nicely brown around 400-410f never too dark so unless something is wrong with my unit combustion can occur at lower temperatures such as 420-430f. I've never had any problems with my Tubo so I'm curious if there's a problem with it or something else.

 

[SloJimFizz]

@Djunta Yours may be running a tad hot, but you have pushed it find it's boundaries and can adjust it from there, or work with it as is.
But if you don't find out the boundaries and just leave it on a certain number expecting certain results, that can be a bit frustrating. @Wicked0ne 5° increments till it's producing the vapor you desire.
Trust the vapor your getting out of it, not the number on the screen. For now.

 

[RelaxedNow]

I’ve found that when I share my Tubo, or any convection vape, I must repeatedly explain that those short draws they’re used to with combustion or conduction won’t give them anything with convection. Invariably, they’ll say it’s not working, when it’s working great! It’s just difficult for some to accept that they have to draw longer......but if they do, they find that it’s worth it.

As to the temperatures, it doesn’t matter what a vaporizer is calibrated to, each design is different at the load, so if you’re used to 350 on one, that may be equivalent to 380 on another. I suspect there’s often some variance even from unit to unit within the same design. Just crank it up until you get what you want.

Now, having said all the above, while my Tubo Evic works great, my Dual has never consistently worked well.....sometimes no vapor, sometimes glowing coils and combustion. Partly my own fault though, in that I haven’t wanted to pay for shipping to get it fixed. So, maybe, just maybe, @Wicked0ne does have a real problem, IF he’s tried cranking it up or changing the resistance and still nada.